[FanaticOnWheels]

That sure is pretty steep for a new car. Have you checked these parts personally to see if the SA is not taking you for a ride? And yes, try pushing for a warranty replacement, though it would be a tricky scene. You'd have to fight your case saying its premature wearing out, and not tell him about the bumper to bumper routine you go through everyday.

However, I strongly suggest you go and have a look at these damaged parts once.

[AppyS]

I think I'm done with VW Apple Auto Whitefield. The last trip of mine there for bumper replacement after an Innova gracefully took it out, someone actually had the guts to take out an sd card from the audio player, and replace the empty holder. All the SA's talk about is replacement, that's all. I strongly recommend some other VW service station over them. Fine the car was bought from them, doesn't necessitate me going back for service to them. I regret not having joined tbhp and posting when my woes with their services began from 2014.

[vsathyap]

Usually whatever part gets replaced is kept in the boot of the vehicle right? So you should get the old part that was replaced without having to ask for it. AFAIK that's what maruti does and is what is expected of all A. S. S.s. Maruti did this on my old Alto When they replaced even the smallest of things like wipers and spark plugs.. And also things like air filters, old gaskets, rings etc. Even Hyundai does this I believe.

Anyways once you get back your car please use the handbrake method to move on slopes and when in traffic.. Don't bother moving unless the guy in front of you has moved atleast 5+ feet. Inching along is the major culprit in early clutch wear. Just wait in your position till the traffic significantly moves and only then drive. Sure you may get honked at but those guys aren't paying for your clutch or your petrol.

[AppyS]

Ok so now post the clutch n flywheel replacement, I feel some minute level of vibrations through the pedal,even when it is not depressed or touched in all gears apart from neutral. Is it normal ?Not even 60kms out of the service center, please advise.

[Hatari]

Just had the same thing happen to my Fiesta TDCi this morning.
Pic of ODO attached.

The RPM was stuck to 1000 and climbing very slowly, in spite of a floored throttle, and the car was crawling along at 10-20 Km/hr.
Speedo was not functioning.

Then all of a sudden, it vanished. Everything returned to normal.
Self healed, while thats welcome, it will get tougher to diagnose.

[joseph5600]

I have a ford ecosport. Noticed that the car doesn't seem to perform the same a before at lower RPMs. Until 1500 RPM, the vehicle used to move freely the moment I take my leg off the clutch. Now, I need to give a bit of accelerator. And I feel I am making more downshifts nowadays. But once it crosses 1500 RPM, nothing noticeable, thanks to the turbo. As mine is more of city driving, it is very much noticeable. Anybody faced similar issues? The car has clocked 50K kms.

[--gKrish--]

Originally Posted by joseph5600

As mine is more of city driving, it is very much noticeable. Anybody faced similar issues? The car has clocked 50K kms.

The EGR and intake manifold must have got clogged with soot. Get them cleaned if they haven't been cleaned previously (check and rule out the filters too).

There was significant improvement in the low end on cleaning the EGR valve in our car which behaved the same way at around similar mileage.

[scorpian]

Originally Posted by joseph5600

I have a ford ecosport. Noticed that the car doesn't seem to perform the same a before at lower RPMs

Yes this is common in most city driven cars, i also think the ecm which keeps updating the driver map tends to have a effect on this(experts could comment on this please). Usually a highway drive is good enough to clear some of the carbon and this does help the car run better. Put in some additive and just go for a drive where you can hit some speeds safely and all should be good.

[VernaOwner2013]

I own a 1.6 SX VTVT Verna Petrol variant, manual ignition and about 5 years old car with mileage clocked at about 48,000 km. I have been getting the car serviced periodically and till now i have not encountered any problems with the car. Recently, i have started facing a problem and i am unable to make sense of it.

I have started experiencing since about 2 months. While driving suddenly the tachometer (rpm meter) suddenly turns to Zero and gets stuck there, whenever this happens the car seems to lose power or momentum and gives a small jerk, it continues to run though. But it feels heavy and little indifferent, it is slow to accelerate, it gives a little knocking when slowing down a bit. Not sure i am able to explain exactly but it feels indifferent, as if car is heavy and not running smoothly as it normally does. Sometimes if i stop the car and start it again then tachometer comes back to life again and car runs normal. On one instance when i restarted the engine warning light came up. Since i was in middle of traffic, I got a basic check done with a local mechanic & he did not find anything obviously missing. It started normally and so i could drive back home.

This keeps happening randomly, once i drove 60 km without an occurrence while once only 5 km drive caused it. Now i have the car in my parking and contemplating the next steps. I had annual service from authorized Hyundai service center last month, i had asked to check this issue but they had not found anything, they mentioned it might be one-off due to heavy rains.
It will really help if to get some expert comments on possible root cause and resolution before i visit the service center again and they scam me with lot of unknowns.

[mayankk]

This is limp home mode. The ecu is detecting something wrong and reducing the stress on the engine to prevent damage. Happened to my fiesta alongwith the tacho issue once, and it was found to be speed sensor that was the issue. You should get it checked with a neighbourhood mechanic who has an obd scanner. Hell identify what error is recorded.

[vishy76]

This might sound a bit lame but what about the crankshaft position sensor? Since you mention the tachometer getting frozen, it might be possible that the sensor is supplying faulty data intermettenly and leading to power loss by confusing the ECU.

Have you encountered starting trouble at any time where the car just cranks but doesn't fire up? It's a sign of the sensor going wrong.

Even if you haven't, just have the ASC hook an OBD scanner up and the fault code should be logged on. It's a 5 minute job to diagnose the issue.

[scorpian]

Originally Posted by VernaOwner2013

I own a 1.6 SX VTVT Verna Petrol variant, manual ignition and about 5 years old car with mileage clocked at about 48,000 km. I have been getting the car serviced periodically and till now i have not encountered any problems with the car. Recently, i have started facing a problem and i am unable to make sense of it.

Get yourself a OBD reader and use it to diagnose what actually happens when your tacho goes to zero.Rather then doing guess work and letting the mechanics fiddle its best if you know what exactly is the error and then tackle it from there.

[VernaOwner2013]

Originally Posted by vishy76

This might sound a bit lame but what about the crankshaft position sensor? Since you mention the tachometer getting frozen, it might be possible that the sensor is supplying faulty data intermettenly and leading to power loss by confusing the ECU.

Have you encountered starting trouble at any time where the car just cranks but doesn't fire up? It's a sign of the sensor going wrong.

Even if you haven't, just have the ASC hook an OBD scanner up and the fault code should be logged on. It's a 5 minute job to diagnose the issue.

Thank you Vishy. Your hunch might be actually correct.
Today i encountered the problem again. RPM stuck to zero & engine warning light lit up. I got it OBD scanned. The scan showed two problems: Crank sensor & 4th injector jet. The mechanic checked the wiring of the injector but did not find any external damage. He symmarized it could either be the crank sensor gone wrong, wire cut on the 4th injector or problem with the ECU itself playing up. As a way ahead, he advised me to keep running the car over next few days and if same problem is ecountered again and if then the scan shows up same error then we should focus on the three parts by opening up for further analysis.

Is there a better approach to do this?

Also, now that i think of it. A couple of times, I did encounter trouble starting up where car just cranks without actually starting. There was just a momentary drag.