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The clutch slave cylinder price mentioned in the chart appears to be for the M-Hawk I suppose. Because for the CRDe it used to be Rs. 800 (it's been a few years since I last replaced it).

By the way, Styler, Rakesh has been a really busy person with his decarbonizing. I've got it done as well through him, and my 2006 CRDe 4wd with 1,41,000 km on the odometer saw a spike in fuel economy after the second tankful to 12.25 kmpl in city (not 12.8 gd). It earlier used to hover around 11.6 kmpl without AC, going down to 10.78 kmpl in summer.

Cheers,

Need urgent Help with this:

I had replaced my OEM Ameron Battery with Ameron Black in the first week of Feb. After 3 weeks of running the battery went dead and it seems that the battery was not being charged at all.

The battery was taken off for charging & it took almost 13 hours for charging before the battery was fully charged. Now the battery has been running for the last 4 days and I got it rechecked at the Battery Store the multimeter rating with engine off is 13 & with engine on it is 14.1.

I am not sure whether the Battery is charging or not.

As per the A.S.S. the alternator is working but the battery is of incorrect rating, as per him the correct battery is Ameron 85 D 26 R. But when I did a search on the net the correct battery for Scorpio VLX (non micro hybrid) is AAM-GO-00085D26R

The solution I can see is to replace the battery with the correct one for your model. All you need to make sure is that the AH rating of the replacement battery matches the original one. If you buy one with a higher rating, it won't get properly charged, as the charging current will be inadequate.

I think that the battery that you got is for the "micro-hybrid" model, and is not getting enough charge from the standard alternator. The models with "micro-hybrid" start-stop system come with a much higher capacity battery, alternator and a more powerful starter motor. This is because of the increased load of the starter motor being used much more often with the system on.

If you have to keep the higher capacity battery, fore reasons like adding a lot more accessories and additional lights, then the alternator needs to be replaced with the one on the micro-hybrid model by a competent and trained auto-electrician.

I had this work done on my old M800 STD model after AC conversion and adding remote locking, because the OEM alternator and battery were not enough to handle the additional load. In the end, I got a used alternator from a crashed MPFI M800 and upgraded the battery as well.

What was the rating of the old battery? was it a 65 Amp battery or Amp battery?

As per amaron site, the following three are suitable for VLX non micro hybrid.

AAM-BL-0BL700RMF
AAM-GO-00095D26R
AAM-GO-00085D26R

First one is from Amaron black series and is a 65Amp battery. I'm using this model on my CRDe from 3 years and faced no issues.

The second and third are from Amaron go series and are rated higher. Even with higher rating, I think the alternator takes longer to fully charge the battery, the battery should not go dead completely. I have also used 80amp battery on my CRDe before. Mine is with OEM alternator and did not face any issues whether I used the 80amp(SF) battery or the current 65 amp black battery.

I suggest you replace the battery with a battery from friends car to isolate the cause.

If the battery is not charging at all, you should have the battery indicator light up on the console, is it happening? if not, I think the problem is some where else. Few posts back you have mentioned that your ICE is draining the battery, is it disconnected?

Hello all

I been a very old member here but mainly a lurker sometimes responding to topics which I am aware of.

I own a 2004 scorp the 2.6 l engine pre-crde. It has been an amazing experience owning this one vehicle and my family and me completely agree to the fact that we can run it for years to come without much issues.

The vehicle asks for minimum maintenance, starts at the turn of a key and eats up miles without a crib. Currently its stationed about 300 km away from B'lore and does at least two monthly trips to the city. Sometimes in the interim it jut sits and gathers and gathers dust. But, when its driven it does a least of 100 km or more but never less.

There are times when it hauls loads that will put a pick up truck to shame which one day included transporting a cow.

Except for a set of Michelin A/Ts that we put on it in 2009, nothing much has been done. And we manage to run it on nitrogen and check and refill if necessary when we are in Bangalore.

Last year we did a little bit of work on the suspensions as the bushes had dried up but else nothing much has been done. This year we want to do carry on some thorough work on it so that it remains the same reliable vehicle for some more years to come.

1.The engine has done 150000 kms.
2.The Michelin shoes are 70000 km and four year old. The treads are about 60%. They undergo rotation every 7000 km. The right rear tyre shows more wear than the others. We didnt find anything wrong when we took it for alignment last time. Do we need to do some checking on this?
3. Front disc pads and rear brake shoes were changed once about 4 years back and were serviced last year.
4.Suspension bushes have been changed once.
5.A/C still works as it used to when it was younger
6.The interiors are seriously dirty.
7. It faithfully returns a milage os 11+ doing local runs where roads are not easy to find and steady 12 and 12+ on highway runs on normal diesel.
8. Oli and filter changes are done every 7 - 8 K kms

Friends I need inputs from you to start work on it. BTW it doesn't go to a ASS but a mechanic in Banashankari.

What are the areas I need to put more effort and attention ensure the Scorp gets a new lease of life with similar reliability. Unfortunately the place where its stationed has very good tractor mechanics and nothing more. The guy who calls himself a car mech does know a Sumo or a trax but nothing more. So once it is away from B'lore it doesn't have support.

Please suggest what all can be attended to in this period. Is it a good decision to change the tyres? Hoping to get inputs and directions from you experienced drivers for this.please:

Thanx

Kaushik

The rule of thumb usually is, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Your Scorpio has been doing careful highway drives and long distances, and is therefore expected to be in good nick.

You drive carefully and with a certain amount of mechanical empathy - so your Michelins are just 40% worn at 70k km. Let them run till they are at least 5-6 years old, unless they develop bulges anywhere.

The right rear tyre - is the outer margin wearing out, or is the wear even over the tread surface? Does the car pull (even mildly) in any direction (i.e. can you drive in a straight line with your hands off the steering wheel?)?

You have leaf springs at the rear I presume - doesn't need attention unless noisy.

Mileage is optimum, and speaks of the attention the car gets from its owner. Don't fiddle around with the fuel system!

If you haven't done it yet, get the diesel tank cleaned.

If you haven't done it in the last 2-3 years, have the brake and clutch fluids and coolant replaced. How long ago were differential and gear oils changed?

Have the brakes opened & cleaned/'serviced' - specifically check for condition of front caliper pins and (even mild) rear wheel cylinder leakage.

Visually check engine and gearbox mounts - rubber deteriorates in 9-10 years. In fact, check all rubber components, esp. hoses (radiator, turbo, brake and fuel lines, etc.).

If suspension bushes were attended to over 50k km ago, a bit of new rubber would be a good thing to have. Else, let them be.

Hope this helps.

First of all, I am no expert as many in the forum, but would like to put my word forward.

I wouldn't recommend any of this kind of an activity for a passenger vehicle. More than trouble for the vehicle or the driver, it has to be trouble for the poor animal. Please don't do this kind of stuff on those poor animals.please:

70k Kms old tires meant they are due for change. I would suggest to get them changed. Also, why don't you think over getting a complete checkup done by the ASS? If the mechanic you are going to is reliable and knows his job, then there doesn't seem to be a problem. IMO, do get the allignment abd balancing checked at some reputed place. The experts will chip in.

IIRC, HVK sir has been relying on FNG's for his 3.17L km scorpio.

An interior wash and polish should do the job!

Thanx for your valued inputs. I have a starting point now.

@SST you are right its only the outside wall of the right rear tyre that shows extra wear.

@carzone ... it was not a full grown cow but a calf which was transported in the absence of another vehicle. I am sorry for the exaggeration.

The reason I mentioned tyre is that they don't have a single leak till now. But most of the times when its driven by my brother - in - law he doesn't have anyone to help in times of a crisis and he himself is as non-mechanical as they come.

So I am trying to cover all angles which will make it a safe and reliable vehicle for him to drive. He is a very careful driver nonetheless.

Hello people, I am sorry if this is a repeat query on this forum/thread, guide me to the right one.

My Scorpio is almost 30 months old, still in Company's ownership, which bears the Maintenance expenses. I have been getting it serviced at ASC (VVC, Hyd) every 5K without fail. But somehow ,I have not been too happy over last two experiences with this ASC.

I wanted to check if there are any private mechanics, well known for Scorpio at HYD or even in BLR as I frequently visit.

Pplease let me know. Thanks in advance

I have been using scorpio turbo since Jan 2005 and it has done about 1L kms. Recently I had a 75 point free checkup (have always been skeptical about these free check-ups) done from an ASC in Bangalore. Car was delivered back saying there are no issues (!!) but after couple of days the SA calls me and tells me that some work needs to be done in the Shaft and that the replacement would cost about 12K. So he is suggesting getting it serviced outside. He was mentioning something like some part is broke and it needs to be welded. He says its not very critical, but there would be noise in the car. All these talks happened on Phone - so not clear on what he was talking about. I do hear some rattling noise while on low speed.

I would be visiting the ASC sometimes, but meanwhile - could some one let me know if there is a problem in Shaft - is it better to replace or do some patch work.

Go and threaten him that you'll report to M&M about the nefarious phone call.
Let him tell you what exactly he was talking about!

Hi,
Great going for your Scorpio. I have a Similar Non-CRDE 2003 Scorpio which has done about 100000 kms. I did some preventive maintenance things some time back.

What I would recommend to maintain the reliability of your Scorpio.
1. Change all Rubber Hose pipes for the coolant. (Max expense of Rs 1000 to replace all)
2. Change Fuel Pipes, because if these have a slight leak or something there will be 100 different diagnosis for small issues like starting problems etc. (Just an expense of another Rs 1000)
3. Change Engine and Gear Box Mountings. This will greatly reduce the vibrations. (Around Rs 4000)
4. Decarbonize.
5. Get the Front and back Suspensions, and the shaft checked thoroughly.

That is about it.
You mention that your Michelin Tyres have done 70,000 and still have 60 % Tread. At that rate they will last you over a lac kms. That is simply amazing and unheard off. Are you sure about this. Are these your first change tyres or your second change ??

Has anybody been able to run original tyres for over a lac ? I changed my original Bridgestone HT (With Tubes) at 60,000 kms, and installed Hankooks. these will have to be replaced in another 10,000 kms, so their total life will be about 50 K. And this is when i drive very carefully and decently. My Hankooks took a lot of beating as they have done the Kashmir Leh Circuit twice. One tyre got a bad puncture and I had to install a tube after my last trip to Leh in 2012

Scorpio Owners how much did your tyres last ???

Styler

But you don't have a slight vehicle pull to the right?

See if adding 1 or 2 spacers to adjust the right suspension kingpin inclination helps in removing the right rear tyre wear or not.

The Scorpio service schedule recommends replacing the diff oil during the first 5000kms service, and around 30000 km intervals there on. The reason for the early change is to account for the initial bedding in, wear and tear that goes into the new component. So, even if its a new open rear diff unit (not necessarily a MLD or a LSD) it will go through that initial period.

You would find these filings on the first service diff oil drain even on a normal diff.


Engagement is a one time thing (disengagement is seamless), though there would be some wear due to that, but not contributing a lot. I will update on this on the next service for Marengo (60k) when the diff oil will be drained out. My datapoint will be a indicator of decent offroad/locker engagement.

Which ASC is this? Let me know if you need help in assessing what the SA said.