Team-BHP - A superb Car cleaning, polishing & detailing guide

Team-BHP (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)

- Technical Stuff (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/)

- - A superb Car cleaning, polishing & detailing guide (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/102011-superb-car-cleaning-polishing-detailing-guide-211.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by NOTORIOUS (Post 2059469)

have rubbed half of my verna with 3M rubbing and now it is spotless. will do remaining half tomarrow.

Is 3m rubbing compound better than using petrol/diesel for removing tar spots? Also, during my last service I checked with the guys who do the polishing of the serviced cars that what should be used to remove hard spots (tar/bug) and they advised petrol over diesel. Would it be better than using diesel?

Quote:

Originally Posted by fine69 (Post 2059490)

Petrol/Diesel is not good on paint.
When I first saw the 3M product in action, I coundn't believe it. It was so effortless.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadRash (Post 2059656)

Petrol/Diesel is not good on paint.
When I first saw the 3M product in action, I coundn't believe it. It was so effortless.

3M Finesse-it or some other?

Quote:

Originally Posted by fine69 (Post 2059490)

Well I have always used diesel over petrol. Petrol will evaporate quickly, diesel will stay on the surface to do the job. Sometimes for single stage paint the paint may bleed heavily and get marred. So always do a test spot. Diesel is fine on modern paints. But always shampoo/wash thoroughly the car after you use diesel and you should be fine.

As for the 3M rubbing compound someone mentioned elsewhere, please note that when you use a rubbing compound (which is like polish with abrasives) your are actually "compounding" the surface - which is essentially done to remove paint defects. A rubbing compound will remove some of your clear coat along with the tar spots. Do you really want that to happen? Using a RC for surface contaminants is not needed and is an overkill. Best use clay or worst stay with diesel & a wash.

Rgds

Quote:

Originally Posted by Garipagol (Post 2059801)

Well I have always used diesel over petrol. Petrol will evaporate quickly, diesel will stay on the surface to do the job.

Reason I am skeptic of diesel is because recently I noticed that there are yellow stains near the fuel lid which must have happened due to the spillage of diesel drops when the fuel pump guy takes the pipe out. It means that diesel would definitely damage the paint however it might do so only if it remains in contact with the paint for too long. Now after every refill I wipe the area with a soft cloth and the pump guy looks at me as if I'm a retard.

Quote:

But always shampoo/wash thoroughly the car after you use diesel and you should be fine.

Shall do

Quote:

A rubbing compound will remove some of your clear coat along with the tar spots. Do you really want that to happen? Using a RC for surface contaminants is not needed and is an overkill.

My thoughts exactly and hence the question.

Quote:

Best use clay or worst stay with diesel & a wash.

Claying is definitely the best but procuring it is a pain for me as I can't seem to find it anywhere in Delhi (may be I haven't looked at the right places) and Jopasu guys are not ready to ship this.
I think I'd now try the local mechanic shops where denting/painting happens and maybe I can find some clay bars there.

@fine69 - petrol/diesel stains can easily be cleaned with NC thinner. The service center guys cleaned my alloys with that. But I do not think using excessive thinner on paint is good either.

My observations are inline...

Quote:

Originally Posted by NOS Power (Post 2059099)

Thanks Sohail, so that means i need to invest in some good light coloured MF cloth. I have two 100% cotton ones and a waffle weave which I picked up from shoppers stop, will they suffice? Or should I not use them?

You should not use them except perhaps for cleaning the wheels. You should get at least a set of three MF towels. The collinite guy sells a set of six. Although the towels are of low GSM they will be far better than your current stuff.

The car wasn't repainted, I bought it second hand I can see that the car was not polished regularly, so the gloss is not there at all. I mean it seems as if the paint has oxidised. Some body panels which are generally not affected by direct sunlight are in better shape.

Typically paint on the vertical panels are in better shape. If your paint is not cracked or splochy (clear coat failure) you can still get reasonable results through detailing. As far as I know in a two stage paint the base color coat is flat, the gloss comes from the CC. The paint is aged but give it a go.

If not Megs then what brand?
Well you can use any swirl remover to start with. What you need is a compounding polish followed by a finishing polish. Most of the compounding polishes get best results if you use a rotary or a DA polisher - to break down the polish. But Megs say that you can use 105/205 by hand as well. Others like Menzerna are good with DA only.

Where can I get this rubbing alcohol? And should I apply it with soft cotton or a foam applicator?

Use a Towel.

On second thoughts if its ok with both blackasta and garipagol, can we meet? I mean if you both could have a look at my car and advise me?

Sure.

Thanks
NOS

Quote:

Originally Posted by sohail99 (Post 2058784)

1. 2- bucket technique or rather 3- bucket!!!(3rd bucket for final rinsing(compensating for lack of hose))

2. Chamois can absorb a lot of water and yes its effective in drying but I'm not sure whether its safe!

Anyways, just soak the chamois with a little clean water to make it soft and then go around the car. After each swipe on the panel, check for any dirt etc. sticking to the chamois. ( I would rinse the chamois in clean water after every panel just to prevent the dirt sticking on the chamois to rub against the other panels)

3. OMG!! no crumpled cloth etc.!! I completely agree with Blackasta on the wax applicator choice!!

(btw the sponge applicator we get with Formula1 carnauba gold wax tub is also nice!!)

4. Whoa!! using a handtowel is counterproductive!!

In reality, a clearcoat finish is even more sensitive and fragile than human skin(with the exception of ceramiclear finishes)

So in order to maintain a scratch free finish without imparting more swirls in it, a quality microfiber cloth is a must

5. As Blackasta rightly said, colin is easily available, but I'm not sure about the ammonia content in it!
Generally ammonia containing glass cleaners are not safe for sun films!!

> ok, so i will use 2/3 bucket wash technique next time.

> I cannot get rid of some dirt on chaomis. What solvent to use to clean chamois.
I tried dettol handwash, it dindnt work

> will be getting a wax applicator soon.

> will check on amonia content in colin, else will skip it. Use plain water maybe.

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackasta (Post 2058787)

The wax ought to get hardened. The trick of waxing is to use just sparing quantities of wax making a thin and uniform coat.
You can get MF towels from here: BB Impex (P) Ltd. New Delhi, India, 5 Pack Yellow Microfiber

or get someone in US to bring you a pack of these: Amazon.com: Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber - Pack of 3: Automotive

Thanks for the link blackasta.Will post my experience here for sure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkh (Post 2058881)

Using a proper MF is very important. A flimsy one will not only wear out faster, but if the density is not enough, it will not do the work well. Especially important if you are buffing wax or drying to have a quality product.
The BEST ones are Megs and 3M and both can be obtained through yours truly ;), just PM me your number if you are looking at getting your hands on those.

Great, PMing you my number / e-mail. :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Garipagol (Post 2058909)

Your results look pretty good considering the fact that you pretty much wiped off the wax you put on the paint !! The platinum series TW is quite good and you will have much better results when you apply it correctly. You should use very little quantity, rub it in till you cannot "see" it but the paint appears hazy. The trick is not let it dry completely and at the same time allow some time for it to bond with the paint surface. And then buff ...buff to get the shine back.

Thanks buddy. I think i need a MF cloth. Will get my hands on one soon and post my experience here.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Garipagol (Post 2058909)

Toothbrush (Soft) is OK but bathing soap is NOT. Use a car shampoo if you are working on the car body.

Ok thanks for the correction.

My next car wash will be a more detailed than this one for sure...i hope so.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NOTORIOUS (Post 2059469)

@csateesh ; are your products delivered ???

Not yet nitrous. It says that it is on the plane.:Frustrati

Sateesh

How is Collinite 476 different from 845? Is 476 better and more durable? Has anyone used it here?

Reason I'm checking about this is because I was about to place the order for 845 but encountered 476 on their website and it seems that it would be a better bet than 845 in extreme conditions such as Delhi's, not sure though. I understand that the application would require more effort than 845 but if the results would be better and if the wax coat would last longer than 845 then I'd rather order this.

I wanted to try Marque D' Elegance and 476 waxes too!!

(I've also heard that 845 is the easiest to apply THIN!!! a thin coat is a must!
Thick coat will cause innumerable problems!! Paste waxes are difficult(not impossible) to apply thin!)

Especially the metal wax 850, which I want to use on the bare metal parts on the undercarriage, nuts and bolts, parts in the engine bay etc.!

Quote:

Originally Posted by sohail99 (Post 2061275)

(I've also heard that 845 is the easiest to apply THIN!!! a thin coat is a must!

Could you elaborate on this please

Quote:

Thick coat will cause innumerable problems!! Paste waxes are difficult(not impossible) to apply thin!)

What kind of problems do you mean?

I've mailed Sanjay to share the product details of 476, shall update if he reverts.

As in using minimal product and making several section passes while applying wax with a foam applicator.
(kinda like working the wax into the paint gently and not just smearing it around)
(earlier I used to smear it around and wait for it to dry LOL!)

and do one panel at a time! Wipe off excess wax just before its about to dry!

Thick coats are ultra hard to remove!!
the effort that goes into removing the excess thick coat becomes counterproductive as in order to remove the wax, toweling marks may be induced in the paint.(micro marring due to excessive force)

At the end of all this ordeal, one will definitely not be satisfied as the finish achieved might not do justice to the effort that went into it!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by fine69 (Post 2061053)

Here is a comparison of Collinite products from Proper Autocare. It is an excellent DYI web store like Auto Geek - the home of blackfire & Menzerna USA. As you can see there is hardly any difference between the two. I have not used the 476 but I will wager that 845 is a lot easier to work with. It will leave you with more time to admire your work.

Rgds

^OMG! I've been using a wax meant for light colors!

I'm switching to Marque D' Elegance!