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-   -   A superb Car cleaning, polishing & detailing guide (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/102011-superb-car-cleaning-polishing-detailing-guide-357.html)

Right now we dont know the shape and size of the aluminium sharma_sanjeevi wrote about. If it is finished aluminium, you can go on to metal polishes straight away. If it is a cast piece with intricate moulding, the approach will be with a jeweller's brass wire brush or a Dremel rotary wire brush - if you have one. Unless there is severe unevenness 400 grade paper may be too rough to start with since Al and some of its alloys are relatively soft metals and easily scored.

Al oxidizes even as it is polished. While in school, I used paste car wax as only that was available. Normal car wax will delay it. Sealants & waxes we normally use in detailing will be better as they last longer. Sealants overcoated with wax (or vice versa - different schools of thought) will be the better choice.

If the object is not fixed and can be removed and clear coated, there is nothing like it. Just be aware that some clear coats are naturally slightly yellow in colour. You'll need the crystal clear variety. Anodised Al will be dull unless clear coat is used over it creatively.

Possible paths to be taken are endless and one has to think through and experiment to decide the optimal route.

In case your query is yet to be answered -

It's not clear from your post, what and when you are planning to apply wax (after polish/sealant or simply after a wash).

Anyways, simple answer is Liquid wax is easy to apply.
Stays longer (liquid or paste wax) ==> Collinite 845 is THE BEST.

You would get far better result, if you wash, clay the surface followed by Polish (can also use scratch/swirl compounds before Polish), then Sealant and finally Collinite 845.

If you simply wish to wax the car after cleaning, use C845.

All the best, and do post some pics or provide a link to your thread once you are done with the detailing.

Thanx All , its indeed a alto 800cc .

Results are achieved bu mixture of menzerna,3M, and autoglym.

I too liked the finish you achieved.

Which products you used from each of these vendors? Did you mix the products, or apply them as different layers? Also how did you apply it. with a RO polisher?

From where I can get this automotive clay? I haven't used this before. How to use it?

You can get it from auto-mall.in, bringing best (B B Impex P Ltd).
Application is simple, spray and rub the clay bar on the surface till it moves smoothly, check out youtube lots of videos.

Hey guys how do I get rid of scratches on the interior non-smooth plastics ?

Finally got some time to test the clay bar effect. I only did it on the bonnet due to shortage of time and the effect is great. Not only the clay took out the hard-to-go stains from tar, oil, etc, but the it also gave a nice shine and silky smoothness to the metal. I could actually see a lot of hard stains going away as I was claying the bonnet surface. However, the clay could not take out the sticky stains from a tree. Even though the place where the sticky stains had gotten all hard and sticky, is smooth and shining, the actual stains are still there. You can observe the same in 2nd photograph at the bottom right corner. I wonder how to get rid of those stains.

EDIT: These are the steps to taken during the whole exercise:
1) Washed the car completely.
2) Wiped the whole car with microfiber towel before claying.
3) Clayed the bonnet surface with the usual method of spray detailed liquid, clay the surface for a couple of minutes and wipe with a fresh microfiber towel.
4) Wiped the whole bonnet again with the towel.
5) Applied Formula1 liquid wax polish and wiped the surface with in the usual circular fashion.

Super-smooth-shining bonnet:



Another angle. You can observe that the tree stains are still there, though they don't feel as rough as they were before claying.

Hey Ajay, Super effort and Super result.
Your bonnet looks quite gleaming and shining. The color also looks improved.
How would you rate the Mother's detailing products.
With the pics that you have put up, I am taking it as buy recommendation :) ? what say ?

@Fordmanchau: Yes, its a BUY recommendation. Although, I can not really comment on the longivity/quality of the effect, since it was the first time I was using it and also, it was a half-hearted effort this time. But, overall, whatever I have read and searched, Mother's products are recommended.

Man, you gotto touch the surface of the bonnet of my car to get a feel. I remember one of the Katrina's advt. :D

I have used Mothers Clay Bar System, It's good one.

For tyre sidewall cleaning, I'm planning to use glycerin with water mix?

Any advise on plastic trim cleaning of the car exterior?

Not easy. If any fiber pieces stick up, remove them first with appropriate waterproof emery paper.

You can work to soften the edges of deep scratches with a 3M paper No1000 and finishing with 1500 -2000. Take your time and do it very gently to avoid destroying the surface detail. Finish with any interior dressing, which will make it all a uniform colour and the scratch not noticeable.


Just use specifically made products and cant go wrong. Most are better than home remedies. :D

Thanks a lot basky will give that a try. Silly question but it wouldnt be a good idea to try with rubbing compund first right ? Because the paste would stick in the scratch and the bumps of the plastic ?

For Give Away (Mumbai Only) : If anyone wants to give detailing a try I have slightly used bottles of Armor All Wash and Wax car shampoo, Turtle Wax paste wax and Formula 1 Shine it All. These are not the best products however the armor all shampoo is pretty good but I guess for free you cant go wrong :D
PM me if anyone is interested

This is a misconception. "Rubbing compound" is an abrasive. It gets rid of scratches by removing the surrounding material to the same depth of the scratch.

I realised all this when I used to make jewellery as a hobby. From removing deep scratches with a file, right up to the penultimate stage of polishing, all the finishing processes are processes that remove metal, from file, through various grades of "emery," some of which are so fine they feel almost smooth, to the first stage of polishing with a machine. Only the very final polish "burnishes" rather than cuts, and the difference is academic.

If you are going to remove a scratch. or other damage, by filling, then you must match the colour of the material --- or it must be a situation where the repair is going to be painted over anyway.

No no Thad you misunderstood what I was saying ! I meant that if a paste like rubbing compound is used to "sand" the scratch then chances are that some paste will stick in the scratch and become more visible if the scratch is not evened out completely