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Contaminated trim soiled with hard water/other pollutants can often be mistaken for ‘faded’ trim, ideally you want to take a detailing brush and give it a through clean in a small section with some all purpose cleaner to check. Wait for it to completely dry and then inspect, if still faded just wipe down with some 25% IPA (isopropyl alcohol) solution and apply your trim restorer of choice, I’ve had great results with Carpro PEARL, alternatively for even longer lasting protection you can also apply any ceramic coating intended for plastic trims. Make sure you protect it from water until fully cured. Cheers.

Try Forever Black Bumper and Trim restorer. This will dye the plastic black and bring its original look.

If you want a cost effective option, you could try the Wavex silicone emulsion mentioned in the post below:

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/road-...ml#post4427650

Seeking advise from this thread. I plan on applying Turtle wax ceramic hybrid coat on my 8 month old Rapid 2021. I think this is one of the best paint qualities i have seen in all cars I have owned and wanted to take extra care. I tried shopping around for ceramic coating and none of them charge less than 20k INR. The lowest quote was 18k for 3 layered coating. Studio ceramic coating costs almost 10x the price compared to cumulative price of turtle wax hybrid ceramic, compound & polish.

So my car has swirl marks, nothing too drastic though but its visible when in the sun. So after watching some videos on youtube, they advised to apply compound and polish to remove swirls and then use cleaning alcohol and then apply Turtle wax ceramic hybrid coat.

Here are some questions I have for the members here:
1. Will I be able to remove swirls doing it DIY style? (Please note I dont have any power tools. I will rely on elbow grease.)
2. Is this something I can attempt to even DIY?
3. Is Studio ceramic coating really that much better ?

Rust Marks

Have a 3 year old Figo which has now shown rusting at the LHS doors (pics below) As per the service guys, it must be because of some stone hitting the car during drives.

Q1. Does such events cause the paint to erode and rust at such early age of the car?
Q2. What is a DIY remedy to this? Also to avoid spreading of the rust.
Q3. As per the service center, it can only be done by re painting the section (complete doors in this case). Thats an expensive affair, is there an alternate?

Slightly off topic but has anyone used the leather cleaner/conditioners on their leather sofas & to what effect? Planning to buy this solely for the sofas. Thanks!


Turtle Wax Leather Cleaner & Conditioner https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00062ZIXQ/...ing=UTF8&psc=1

Memories of my parents' 1950/60s Fords which were rust buckets. Car body and paint work has come a long way since then.

Being fair to Ford... It is steel: any bare-metal area caused by scratches or dings, on any car, will rust if not attended to promptly.

The stone-chips theory, are they trying to cover up for faulty paintwork? I have no idea. But you must get it fixed or you will soon have holes there.

I have a query. How frequently do we need to wash the car underbody when it gets covered with monsoon dirt? Will the underbody rust due to it?

I am currently at a rural area where I drive over unpaved road which male the wheel arch and the underbody parts coated with thick layer or dirt.

What are the best ways to attend it and minimize the possibility of reoccurrence or spreading of the rust?

The side doors are not repainted so it is as per the factory paint quality. I have another VW car which also has similar stone hits but I dont see rust. What is so different with Ford?

As long as the vehicle gets parked in a dry, well ventilated place - you can leave it as is and clean it up whenever it goes for the next wash.

You can get it clean, ie remove all rust, and get some primer/touch-up spray on there. Personally, though, I'd get dealer or independent to do it.
I think that VW body/paint work is superior. I suspect that their galvanising is particularly tough. I have had a scratch on a sill for a couple of years now: metal clearly visible. But I guess it did not penetrate the galvanizing (zinc) layer, which explains why no rust. If that layer is breached, even our VWs will rust.

Won't quote my acquaintance without their consent, but it's reportedly well-known in detailing circles that Euro cars in general have much thicker (measured in microns) paint coats compared to other brands sold in India.

My 'jugaad' fix for really small paint chips, is transparent nail lacquer:D. Slightly larger ones, if possible, get covered by a T-BHP sticker. Not the cleanest solution in the world but it's impractical to repaint every time a little chip occurs, or pay for expensive full-panel PPF for cheaper cars.

P.S. Note of caution. I do my 'jugaad' fixes as soon as possible after the paint is exposed, not after it's been exposed to moisture for a while and started rusting. Once that happens, it's best to get the rust removed and surface prepped/repainted professionally.

I am not an expert. But my XUV has couple of spots below the door that are starting to rust. So I found spoke to couple of folks around how to DIY repair it. Yet to do though.

Step 1: Use sand paper to remove the rust - Depending on the size, either use Grid 200 directly or if the size is bigger - start with Grid 60 or 80, and then use Grid 200.

Step 2: Since my area is hidden below the door, I just plan to use Spray paint directly. But in your case, you might want to use a primer and then spray paint.

I notice that the car is white. If the patch is small you can probably do it yourself. But if it is looking ugly, getting it done at a workshop is probably better.

Good luck, and let us know what you decide.

Do you mean the bottom of the door itself? There is the possibility of rust starting on the inside of a door.

Detailing experts,

What is the best way to get rid of tar spots that stick to the lower section of doors and the running board due to monsoon? I can feel the roughness when I run my hand across the door & fender panels.