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-   -   A superb Car cleaning, polishing & detailing guide (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/102011-superb-car-cleaning-polishing-detailing-guide-771.html)

Unfortunately, it is not tar. My suspicion was the same when I looked at these spots but when they didn't budge even after diesel, petrol, and polish applications I closely inspected and found the whole car was covered with green spots. These are caused by paint overspray I think. I will use clay bar and update if that works.

Anyone who knows my posts having anything to do with cleaning (or drying) anything, including myself, knows that I have been Microfibre-Crazy for decades.

Today, even I had a surprise. I have not bought any glass-specific cloths for ages, and the couple I have are past it. It's pot luck, browsing Amazon for this kind of thing and picking something, but I ordered this one: P-Plus International Microfiber Glass Cleaning Cloths Streak Free - Lint Free - Quickly Clean Windows, Windshields, Mirrors, and Stainless Steel (Pack of 5)for Rs.389

I tried one today. I usually squirt'n'wash the windscreen and then use a cloth to wipe the areas not swept by the wipers, and using the left-over washer fluid that remains on the glass.

I used this new cloth today for the first time. It cleaned the smeary layer right off the glass. I usually have to use a glass polish to get the same result.

I'm a terrible T-BHPer! I just don't do much in the way of cleaning and polishing <blush> but I do insist on the glass being clear and clean.

I have given my car to the service and inquired about removal of the paint transfer stains from the car via polishing. The service advisor mentioned that there is just slim chance of removing the stains as it has been quite a while and the stains probably have been absorbed by the paint. Any idea if this is true. On the other side the service advisor did not try and sell me the polish package which I had asked for since my main goal was to remove the stains.

Thanks in advance.

Take it to a professional detailer not the dealer, paint transfer can easily be removed with a medium cut compound in most cases.

Going by your pictures earlier it should be reversible. Don’t let anyone repaint the panel.

Yesterday I gave the car to a detailer. They managed to clear most of the stains but faint marks still remain. I had told them to do whatever they could to make them go. The thing is under the fancy lights which detailing studios have it became difficult to see the marks on the paint. At the studio it appeared that all the stains were gone but at home I managed to see faint residue of the cover paint still there. I decided to let it go as it is not that clearly visible. Also the car looks great after a detailing session. I had never got any of my cars polished ever before :).

It’s a big problem in the detailing industry, most shops use diffused LED roof + wall lights that look great from a distance but do little to highlight actual paint defects, you need bright direct lighting like focus/floodlights to check paint properly. Just see this heavily swirled up GLC, if you ignore the focus lights, a layperson will not be able to see the swirls/scratches in the top picture. The second shot is the same area zoomed under direct focus lighting and here you see everything.

Hi All

I have recently bought a new black scorpio last month. As I have an open car park with no protection from sun and dust, I have purchased Turtle Wax Ceramic spray and Turtle Wax Ceramic Graphene wax. Key aim is to save the new paint from fading when summer starts. I have below questions please -

1. Steps - I will wash the car with 3M shampoo and dry it with micro fibre cloth. I am going to skip clay bar step since car is 2 weeks old only. Use the Ceramic spray (2 sprays per panel) & use 1 cloth to spread it and 2nd to buff (circular motion to be avoided I believe). Then wait for 24 hours before applying 2nd coat. Is that fine?
2. Are the above steps enough to prevent streaking? I am concerned about doing any damage instead of making things better.
3. Can the spray be applied on the plastic cladding and chrome parts also?
4. Can I apply the wax over the spray say after a month?

I need recommendations for a leaf blower for drying my Tata Harrier dark. Its getting damn dirty again n again and the local wash guy has ****ed it up.

I have zeroed in on Bosch 820 W leaf blower. Can anyone tell me if its up to the mark or I need something even more powerful. I want a corded one.

Regards

Congratulations on the new ride.

1) Unless specified otherwise by the mfg, you should apply the second coat about 1.5 hrs after the initial coat. You don’t want the 1st to fully cure as it’ll tend to reject the second. Same logic is used when layering ceramic coatings. It’s a myth that circular motions cause anymore swirls than straight motions do (swirls are straight line scratches when viewed microscopically).

2) Streaking during wiping? Use a second dry towel to finish up after the initial towel and you won’t have streaking. Better yet don’t use towels to dry as they will swirl up the finish, use a leaf blower after your final rinse with a pressure washer for a swirl free finish.

3) Chrome yes, plastic no unless the mfg specifically says it’s ok to use on plastic trim.

4) Yes, although with proper washing it’ll last much longer than a month.

I’ve tried the 800W blowers and they fail miserably when it comes to quick and effective drying, best avoided in my experience.

Get the black and decker GW 3030, 3000W of awesomeness makes drying a breeze (no pun intended), I’ve used mine since 2018 and still going strong. Just make sure you wear earmuffs (goes for any blower).

https://www.amazon.in/Black-Decker-G...s%2C659&sr=8-4

I need some help regarding what steps to follow while maintaining my cars.
So, currently I have the following in my arsenal when it comes to waxes -
1. Collinite 845
2. Sonax High Speed Wax

After reading on the internet and doing some research I have ordered Turtlewax Graphene Flex Spray looking at its several qualities and features.

What should be the order of application of all 3 or less products in my case, especially when one of the car is PPF protected. Right now I have been doing Collinite followed by Sonax on my Tiago. Do I even need the graphene spray? If not then I can still cancel the order but I am still interested in adding it to my regime.

Hello there! I live in a dusty area and use my car everyday. Hence, I do not use a cover as it's too much of a hassle to put on and off everyday, let alone worry about the marring/swirls it may cause in itself.

Considering this scenario, I would like to know which of the following methods of daily cleaning is least likely to induce marring/swirls/dullness to the paint over time?

a. Full wipe with a Jopasu duster, nothing more.

b. No Jopasu dusting. Direct wet wipe with microfiber cloths pre-soaked in ONR solution followed by 1 swipe of drying using a drying towel.

Thanks in advance for your input!

I go for the Jopasu. Used very lightly: do not press down, do not even put the whole weight of the brush on the car, just tickle off the dust.

I would never wet-wipe dust. Dust plus water = mud. I'd prefer a dry microfibre, again, used without pressure.

I strongly suspect that a pro paint-care man like AJ56 would say that pressure washing is safer than either.

What about when out and about? I keep a Jopasu-like (different brand) brush in the back. The car may get covered in leaves, dust, etc, in just a few hours. I like to get rid of all that before driving, not because I want my car to look good, but because I want to keep the glass, especially the windscreen, clear.

If you have access to electricity nearby then get a leaf blower. Works like a charm. Start with blowing the dust off then use Jopasu.

If you don’t have access to electricity then get a portable blower if you can otherwise simply use Jopasu. Replace the duster when it gets heavy and changes colour to black.

After all this you can use ONR or any other waterless solution. This way you’ll reduce the number of microfiber clothes which you would have used if you had directly cleaned with any waterless solution.

Just make sure you have enough lubrication when you use anything on surface. Remember less lube = more friction which in turn causes scratches.

Do whichever you find easy on daily basis. Practically speaking, Scratches are inevitable. :)

Hi ,
Can you Please tell me where you are buying the Wolfgang from?, I saw this product in Pan's reviews for paint sealants but i couldn't find it in Amazon or Flipkart. If its online kindly share the link and the cost . I have tried Wavex paint sealent but its super hard to buff off.
Thanks in advance .

Google is our friend! Be my guest (I hope this is the one you're looking for)

Amazon.in: extortionate

Greenz: just expensive

The Greenz price is not that much more that the USD price, and it looks like they are supplying from stock rather than it being dispatched from abroad.

There are several independent suppliers of detailing materials. They may or may not also sell on Amazon/Fliplart. If they do, buying direct from them saves them paying Amazon/etc it's share. It helps support small companies.