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Thanks @AJ56!
I believe the Koch Chemie products are available on TheMicrofibreShop because I didn't find any on PPC and greenzcarcare.com

- Also, wanted to ask that is CarPro Reset safe for vehicles without any coatings or ppf as it lies on the higher end of the pH-scale.

- Could you also suggest any wash-mitts for contact wash.

Happy to help.

I believe PCC has Koch Chemie Auto Shampoo, another snow foam with high lubricity and is pH-neutral.

Wash mitts: https://www.planetcarcare.com/produc...wash-mitt-grey

Reset is perfectly safe on untreated paint, just don’t let it dry on the surface. As long as you’re not using it every wash, you won’t have any issues. Still goes without saying, you want to add some basic protection to the paint in order to better resist the elements and UV and make cleaning very easy.

In that case, which one would you recommend and prefer, the Auto Shampoo or the GSF?

Also, which one would be better suited for contact wash?

Both are excellent for a contact wash, GSF will give marginally thicker foam but it’s a small difference.

https://carpro.global/catalog/reset/

Carpro reset is Ph neutral and I have been using it on both my ceramic coated and non-coated car frequently without issues.

https://www.koch-chemie.com/us/products/autoshampoo

KC autoshampoo is PH 9

https://www.koch-chemie.com/en/produ...ntle_snow_foam

KC gentle snow foam is PH 7.5 ( PH neutral)


Carpro descale is claimed by 3rd parties to be PH 6. Not sure how true that is since if it was Ph 6, it would basically be almost neutral after mixing with water.

Ah so Koch Chemie AS is slightly alkaline. Be careful with Reset though, Capro guys themselves will warn against regular use, pH is only one factor among many that determine how aggressive a chemical is. As the name suggests, it’s designed to strip the paint of waxes and reset it so fresh protection can be applied, won’t damage pro coatings though.

Could you please comment on the quality, plushness and softness of these wash mitts (in case you have used them).

Also, I'm planning to buy 2 wash mitts; one for the upper portion of the car and one for the lower(to avoid cross-contamination). Let me know your thoughts and if any change is required in that number.

I have used them, they’re quite plush and get even softer when wet. You can use different colours to help avoid mixing lower and upper body mitts.

With wash mitts I did extensive testing to see which type scratches the least and I found that microfibre noodle type mitts are the least likely to scratch. Still, before starting and even when new, inspect the mitt surface very thoroughly for any debris stuck in between the fibres, then run your fingers through the fibres to feel for any debris, many times we can feel a tiny piece of debris which is too small to be picked up visually (human eye cannot see beyond 0.07mm or 70 microns). Perform this visual test with all your towels and mitts, specially ones that go on the paint.

Buy at least 6-7, as you want to use the multi mitt method when contact washing the paintwork. Use one side per panel, for larger panels flip the mitt and use both sides. Put used mitts away in a separate bucket, do not reuse. This way you get 12-14 fresh sides to wipe with.

For the running boards and extreme lower sections, do not use the paint mitts, use microfibres or separate mitts as these areas will have more contamination. Use separate towels for wheels as well.

Goes without saying that prior to this step you want to pre rinse as thoroughly as possible with your pressure washer/garden hose, when you start the foam step your paint should be 90-95% clean already.

After the contact step, rinse off soap residue and use your air blower to dry. Following this method will ensure glossy paint for decades without the need for constant detailing and machine polishing.

Contact washing will take 45+ mins when done correctly so it’s not something one can do everyday, I’d suggest do it once every 8-10 days and in between use water + air to dry without touching the paint. Like this-

https://youtu.be/rgpVZrfYAKM

Greetings Everyone!

Was looking for a wheel cleaner and came across Koch Chemie Magic Wheel Cleaner which also has Iron removing capabilities.

-Should I go for the CarPro IronX/TriX as these can also be used on paint as well whereas the above will be restricted to wheels only.

-Also, could you please suggest a wheel cleaner(thinking of using TriX for iron decon on wheels as well)?


Thanks in advance!

Sir, The chemical commonly used for removing iron fallout is ammonium mercaptoacetate. Based on data sheets, Koch Chemie and CarPro Iron X both contain less than 30% of this compound. However, I recommend using Gyeon Iron for iron fallout and brake dust removal, as it is the only product that contains 40-45% ammonium mercaptoacetate. This higher concentration ensures more thorough removal of brake dust.

For routine maintenance, I typically use Armor All Wheel Cleaner. I have found it highly effective at removing browning from tires and cleaning alloy wheels. For wheels with heavy, long-term brake dust deposits, a dedicated fallout remover like Gyeon Iron is advisable. However, for regular upkeep, using Armor All Wheel Cleaner twice a month is more than sufficient.

Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with any of the brands mentioned. The values provided are based on my research conducted while seeking a fallout remover with the best price-to-performance ratio.

TRIX is great but it’s not a wheel cleaner, it’s only designed for removing iron fallout. Depending on conditions use it at most once a month (even once every 2-3 months is good).

Now wheel cleaners generally do have some iron remover built into the formula but it’s not as strong as a dedicated iron remover. Meguiar’s Hot Rims is a good example of one.

Practically what I’ve seen is, if you can pressure wash your wheels even once a week and put a good silica spray sealant like Gyeon Cancoat on them, you’ll rarely need anything more than your pressure washer and a mild all purpose cleaner like Multi-X or Greenstar. On some days even water is enough as it beads right off taking away all the brake dust that’s sticking to the spray coating and not the actual alloy surface.

I think you mean to say Gyeon Wetcoat.


Some questions:

- So according to you, there's no need of a wheel cleaner and we can use APCs whenever needed?

- Can TRIX be used on regular basis for tar removal or is it too strong for this?

Nope I meant Cancoat, wetcoat is water activated and doesn’t last half as long as Cancoat does, you can test for yourself. (Wetcoat is also much more prone to streaking, poor user experience compared to Cancoat).

If you don’t have wheels with heavy contamination and caked on brake dust, absolutely. Otherwise even a wheel cleaner won’t be enough, in certain cases you’ll also need a mineral deposit remover to address all the hard water browning for eg.

TRIX can be used as per need, provided you don’t let it dry on the surface you’ll be fine, also rinse off with plain water once you’re done. If you don’t have running water then spray and wipe with a mild cleaner (diluted APC) to ensure it’s fully removed as just wiping isn’t enough.

Hello Everyone,
A very close friend is moving on transfer to Hyderabad, He drives a 2015 Toyota Corolla Altis which he has bought 2nd hand (and is very happy with it), and is looking for "the best places" in Hyderabad to get some minor paint correction & Polishing and/or ceramic coating done for the car. He mentioned that he doesn't plan to buy a new car for at least 3-5 years.

Requesting some help and options to provide to him on this.
TIA.