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have anyone tried both Sonax BSD as well as Turtle wax Graphene Flexwax? Would love to hear your thoughts on these products. Looking to replace my Turtle Ice SnS. Which is the better choice?

Haven't used either of them. But prices for Turtle wax Graphene Flexwax seem to be about Rs. 1k. In that case, you can consider the Hybrid Ceramic Spray too right?

I have only used it once but I believe it should be easier to apply without streaking and might probably last longer than the wax stuff.

If you are talking about graphene flex wax under Hybrid solutions then this video might be for you.
https://youtu.be/HM9oTfdUrJg?si=W1SDgSSjBn_ZrUl6

I was also considering this product but couldn't find why should one pay 2.5x over SnS for similar results.
Only difference will be the gloss & depth of colour enhancement with Graphene.

Flexwax is actually priced at around 2k.
Ceramic spray and the Ice SnS can only be used as spray on sealants, but the Flexwax can be used as spray on sealant, drying aid, quick detailer etc.

I am using Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Pro Graphene Flex Wax, from 2023. So far, it's been good, and it provides very good shine and water beading effects. Also, the next cleaning, dusting become easier. Only issue it attracts dust like crazy after application, but it is same for all wax/polishes in general.

And I found, the application is easy if we use an applicator pad, rather than using MF towels. Also, we need to try on a small panel first to get used to the application process, otherwise it can have steaking.

Cheers,
narayanang76

Hello.

This far, I've been washing my Innova HyCross myself with the aid of Koch Chemie GFX, CarPro Reset and CarPro PERL.

I'm looking for a drying aid, that aids in lubrication, to help me wipe the car down after the final rinse. Cresterk suggests the ECH2O, which also acts as a quick detailer. This is formulated for coated cars too.

Is there one I could use on my uncoated car (no PPF or ceramic coating) that isn't also formulated to work on costed ones? Can this be used on glass too?

If so, please also recommend a good rinseless quick detailer.

Thanks.

While Ech2O works perfectly fine for non-coated cars as well, you may want to try Sonax BSD (diluted 1:1 or even 1:2 with later being water).

Though both are excellent products, I find Ech2O to be a bit more economical due to recommended dilution being 1:15. Ech2O works pretty well on glass too.

I’d say Opti No Rinse is another good one that has good lubricity and reduces the risk of marring. There is no difference in chemical formulation for coated vs uncoated cars.

Where a coating helps is, it greatly increases the surface slickness, so your towel glides over the paint rather than digging into it, greatly reducing the potential for towel induced swirls.

The two things to look out for in any good rinseless wash are lubrication ability + how well it encapsulates dirt and grime to ensure scratching is minimised during wiping. Yes it can be used on glass. (You’ll still have very light marring over time though, the only solution to that is touch less rinsing or the multi mitt method.)

Try Carpro PERL, you’ll never go back to Wavex. Will also suggest sticking to water based tyre and plastic dressings over solvent based ones.

Once a week just do a quick wipe done of the frequently used seats with a slightly concentrated all purpose cleaner (APC) like Koch Chemie Greenstar. This will reduce the continuous buildup over time which then requires more aggressive cleaning.

Protect with 3D LVP. Call Mayur - +91 7738040311. He’s 3D’s distributor for Gurgaon, you can take my reference, he’ll ship it out to you.

Unrelated, but sharing as this is a thread on detailing-

Levels of Auto Detailing:

Level 1, Noob: Very limited acquired knowledge, can perform simple washing and cleaning but may inflict slight to moderate micro marring in the paint unintentionally.

Level 2, Backyard Junkie: Can perform a wash safely without scratching, may hand apply a wax/sealant.

Level 3, Amateur: Can perform a thorough wash and decontamination with clay and iron and tar removers, may machine apply waxes/sealants.

Level 4, Intermediate: Can safely wash, physically + chemically decontaminate and single stage polish paintwork followed by a wax/sealant.

Level 5, Professional: All of level 4 + capable of performing 2 stage paint correction with moderate to heavy rubbing compounds followed by polishing and protection, may use ceramic coatings as well.

Level 6, Master: All of level 5 + multi stage paint correction, can wetsand and polish panels to remove any and all orange peel to near perfection, will often work on show cars and win.

Level 7, Yoda: All of level 6 + realises that in the end all that matters is you enjoy the car and the drive, may go back to just washing and occasional spray wax

Thanks Anish. So, my wash steps would be:

rinse > foam > contact wash > rinse > spray ONR > wipe

Is this sequence correct? Also, in what dilution should the ONR be used (ratios mentioned here)?

Also, what product do you suggest for the following:

A. Quick detailer for the exterior and interior (can ONR be used here, if so what's the dilution ratio?)

B. Cleaning trims, plastics, chrome on the exterior (I have CarPro PERL as a dresser)

C. Cleaning trims, plastics, fabric on the interior (I have 3M foaming car interior cleaner)

Where does an APC like GreenStar fit into the above 3 requirements, if at all?

Thanks.

Yes your sequence is perfect, save the last step. Use an air blower as it eliminates any risk of marring when drying with a towel + drying aid. It’s also much quicker and much less effort, so a win-win all around.

ONR I like to use 1:16 in case I’m using it as a quick detailer or in general to spot clean a painted surface. With Echo, increase it to 1:12. Use RO/demineralised water.

A. Yes, ONR can be used here. 1:16

B. Any good APC, Greenstar, Multi-X, etc.

C. Again, the same as above, use Greenstar/your APC of choice.

An all purpose cleaner is one of the most versatile tools in your arsenal, it can be used in many areas, from heavily diluted forms as clay lube to higher concentrations for tackling exterior plastics, badges, rubber seals, wheels, interior trim, fabric and even leather.

On certain fabrics like alcantara/suede and plush leathers you’ll want to reduce the strength, while for areas like wheels and fender arches you’ll want a more concentrated solution.

The back of the bottle will advise you on the safe range of dilution ratios for that specific brand.

I skipped level 2 to 6 and seems to have reached a level in which I haven't washed my poor car for 6 months. Used to wash it every alternate weekend using a pressure washer and two bucket method. The crazy weather in Kerala is one reason why I have given up washing.

Guys Detailedclean.in is holding a sale(Buy 1 get 1 free). The item of higher price will be charged and the 2nd one will be free. You can mix and match the products as well.All you need to do is during the checkout at the last page there is a column for adding notes. There you need to mention the name of the product which you want as the free product.Same goes if you want the same product as the free one. You need to mention that in the notes.Although lot of the products are out of stock but still check if something suits your requirements as the prices are very reasonable.I also ordered some towels and QD .

Hello Everyone!

I have a car shade at home which is open on two sides and is made of metal. And, in these days of winters in NCR, there's moisture in the air (especially on foggy days) which starts to condense on the under side of the shed and then falls on the car which defeats the purpose of the shed. Worse than that, I have no idea what gunk (rust or god knows what) all these water droplets are falling with on the car and one day, looking at whitish marks on the glass of car (hard to spot on paint of white car) made me realize that something was wrong with these drops of water.
I try to keep them off the car by trying to move the car in morning before they fall on the car. If any of them falls, I try to wash the spot with APC, Shampoo and water ASAP.

Any idea on what this could be and can this be solved with detailing if this thing damages the paint at the spot these drops are falling?
And, any other solution to protect the car from this?

Thanks & Regards!

Just water won’t cause any lasting damage as the mineral content is near zero (as it’s condensed from the surrounding air).

That water looks contaminated as it’s turning yellow. Likely surface contamination.

You should put very high quality paint after sanding off any rust on the roof material (inside and outside), this ensures there is no surface water contamination which will minimise any scarring on the paint (once it drips down).

First, put a good ceramic coating to give a sacrificial layer over the clearcoat (this one should do anyway.)

In case of hard water etching, use a mineral remover like Puris D19 to safely remove. Don’t leave minerals on the paint too long as they can start to etch into the clearcoat.

Polishing/compounding can fix this scarring provided it’s not too deep, in some extreme cases you’ll need a repaint as there is a safe limit to abrading your clearcoat with a polisher (12-14 microns).

Ideal solution is to cover off the entire section so you’ll have a dust and temperature controlled area to park in.

A week ago, I used Ech2o diluted 1:12 as a drying agent (spray on wet panels and wipe). This resulted in heavy streaking over some panels. I wash in a relatively dark basement and it wasn't obvious until I got the car out.

Can I get rid of the streaking using Reset and a contact wash step? Or, should I use an APC like Greenstar (which I don't have at the moment)?

Also, what dilution ratio do I need to use the Ech2o with as a drying agent and as a quick detailer? The US site lists it at 1:15 - 1:25 for the latter.