[DeepakMenon]

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer

Hi Deepak, is there a way i can check for play by turning/shaking the axle with hand probably?

And can you tell me where the OVP relay is located on this car. I have read in many cases the soldering cracks and things go awry and that kinda stuff so I thought I should investigate.

You look for wear and tear on the rubber; it generally would lose its intergity around the metal bushes you saw in the pic; if you in doubt change both as a pair


OVP is behind the battery, there is a plastic panel which you can pull out; you would see the OVP, Fuel Relay and the ECM..
While checking for it; clean the battery side; I will not be surprized to find tonnes of leaves etc on it; also it would be worthwhile to check all rubber are properly fixed to avoid water getting in there; just to be safe


IS your car giving you electrical gremblins; issues?? if no then you OVP is fine


You got your Clutch done for 10K?? how the hell; the OEM cost of the clutch, pressure plate etc is 16K at spare dealers in Mumbai... what parts did ya use?

[DeepakMenon]

EDIT: Behind the battery you will find the OVP, AC Relay and ECM !!!

[DeepakMenon]

EDIT: Behind the battery you will find the OVP, AC Relay and ECM !!!

[Tejas Ingle]

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer

Replaceed the clutch and pressure plate with release bearing for 10K. The clutch was 95% fried. caught it JIT! Flywheel however was ok.

BTW whats a CAN network? Hope it doesnt open a CAN of worms

CAn you please throw some light on propeller shaft greasing? ...

Why did the clutch go unnoticed during the engine swap? Anyways, good that it did not cause much damage.

CAN network is a network between all the control units of the car used by the control units to communicate with each other. Digital data is transmitted over this network. This enables the control units to share data with each other. Since different types of messages can be shared on the same wires, the wiring in the car reduces considerably. So if you lose CAN connection at one point multiple systems may malfunction because they stop getting information. There are methods to diagnose these problems, but that requires some serious know-how. In untrained hands, it can be a CAN of worms .

Propeller shaft greasing is done to lubricate the bearings in the moving parts of the shaft which are the universal joints, and the sliding joint. These parts will cease without lubrication. Pressurised grease is injected in greasing nipples, provided for this purpose. In some vehicles, this process can be elliminated by the use of special bearings.

[vikramv007]

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer

Mounts seem good. Its more a gentle rock at idle than a vibe... I put in an imported injector cleaner suggested by my mech with a full tank of petrol..let see if there is an improvement.

update - The car is running fine now - minus a bad front right wheel bearing. A jammed themostat was the culprit for the overheating issue - now fixed. The temp site comfy at the 85-90 mark. Have driven 60 KMs without an issue. guesstimate mileage its aroung 6kmpl. driven mostly thru jams and a little spirited driving on NH8 (Gosh I guess I am yet to get out of my Pulsar days )

The car will run on water as a coolant and engine oil being shell helix 20w50 for a few days to flush out all the bad stuff. differential oil topped up, gear oil checked. I have a few queries here:

1. Do you recommend putting synthetic oil say Mobil1 (engine is brand new , run only 6k but was W124 ever designed for one?)

2. The Ac aux fan (radiator) now keeps running the moment i flick the ignition key to ON. I dont see it being bypassed anywhere, The red switch sitting on the ac gas pipline and its connections look as they should be. This was not the case before the the car was diagnosed for the overheating issue.

3. I cant find the AC button but yes there is a "EC" button, and one with three circular arrows, and another one with a heater kind of look. will try to post a pic.

4. The compressor engages when i press the "EC" button or mayb the 3 circular arrow button (not sure) the ac radiator outside heats up but there is no cold air from the vents.

Background - There was almost no gas in the system. I put in a some R134a gas from the bottle. Hooked up a guage on the low side, There is a huge drop in pressure when the compressor turns which shows its working but no cold air...in the vents...the fan blower inside thrws a ton of air..so the possibility of a clogged condensor is very less - iam i missing anything ?

3. I cant find the "check engine light" anywhere on the cluster panel. Or does it look different in this case?

4. No Glove compartment in here? (W124 E220 owners i am right or i am I stupid enough not to be able to locate/open it? )

5. The rotary headlight switch on the right is busted. Please advise a way to remove it (yes I love DIY) I really need to fight with it to get the headlights up. Now only the left one turns on.

6. The fabric heat sheild under the bonnet is missing - I felt the bonnet heats up quite too much. Will this ruin the paint?


7. The power steering is quite tight especially during idle (not effortless like my Daewoo Cielo) PS Fluid was changed abd the steeribg turned left right a few times. Any special bleeding procedure here? I think the steering was OK pre engine swap. is te PW steering hard by default or mine needs some introspection?

8 There is a "light" thud from the back when I put reverse. is this normal?

1. There is absolutely no issue in using synthetic oil.
2. Check the AC evaporator coil, its the most problematic area of the AC and i have changed it 3 times in the last 15 years and its quite expensive.
3. There is no glove compartment on the dashboard this is because the passenger Airbags occupies that place. However there is one storage in between the front seats
4. The rotary headlight switch tends to fail on the Indian W124's while replacing it try to get imported DB switches. It will cost you around 5K.
5. Originally there is no Fabric Shield inside the bonnet for E220's, its only the E250's that got the shield. The use of the shield in the diesel was to keep the engine in its operating temperature. This is not recommended for your E220 since it tends to increase the engine temperature and its normal for the bonnet to get hot.
6. The thud is not normal it might be from the differential check it thoroughly. Does the thud come when you change gears or you leave the clutch suddenly???

[benz220]

I don't see any issue with synthetic oil. However, my dealer was very clear, in that once you use synthetic it is not recommended to switch back to regular oil. This has something to do with the seals. Please do your own due diligence.

Regards

[sportz_kruzer]

Originally Posted by DeepakMenon

You got your Clutch done for 10K?? how the hell; the OEM cost of the clutch, pressure plate etc is 16K at spare dealers in Mumbai... what parts did ya use?

yup 8.4 k for pressure plate + clutch plate, 1.6k for the release bearing. its a german brand four lettered one...iam forgetting the name..

[sportz_kruzer]

Sorry for the late replies guys - been terribly caught up with work

Just wanted to share the costs involved till now. please provide your inputs weather its justified or not..


1. W124 E220 1996 - Rs85000
2. New engine swap -entire block minus gearbox (15 yr old but run only 6k) - 35000
3. Heater/ regulator valve (sits next to fuse box - had 3 pipes coming to it) - 5000
4. Clutch plate+PP+Release bearing - 10000 (some german brand cant remember)
5. Labour for all the above - 15000
6. Rotary headlamp switch on right side of dash - 1800
7. full car wash inside out - 500
8. right wheel bearing Febi-bilstein brand (set of two+oil seal and spring) - 950
9.Mercedes-Benz star - bonnet emblem (in orginal Merc packing) rs2300
10. pw steering fluid - febi bilstein rs600

Please let me know if these costs incurred are OK or not.

Now for the problems - The driver side power window is dead since day one. I took apart the door upholstery to reach the motor. its going tak----tak with a two second delay even if i press and release the button immediately. Its taking current coz my cabin light dims slightly during the operation but neither the gear mech nor the window move a millimeter. I held the gear with my hand..and its not even trying to move...hope u know what i mean...i am in process of trying to remove the pw regulator. can you please advise how do i go about removing it with the window fully rolled up. As in that position i cant reach the nuts on the part which holds the window glass. The holes on the inner side of the door are provided at the point where i need to roll down the window to some extent - but mine is jammed stuck at fully closed position.

i have uploaded the pic of the regulator type - which i heard is called the "Brose regulator" any idea how much it will cost?

Also attached is the pic of the fuse box - can any one tell me which relay does what and how to I shut off the aux fan relay which runs the moment I flick the ig . switch to ON disconnecting the white wires (3rd pic) doesnt make a difference, where as it used to shut off earlier before the engine swap. 4th pic - temp of the engine w/o aux fan within 10 minutes of in society driving...does look normal to me...i hate the lousy engine fan which slips 90% of the motion...still a suspect for me...

I am trying hard to DIY as far as possible coz the mechs eyes turn blue when they hear its a Mercedes + I'd rather blow my $$$ on Petrol ;-) plus It's a very good learning as well.

[Outlaw]

Taking chances with head/replacement is a subject of risk. Moreover the engines are complex in European cars which is a big question if the mechanic hasn't have had an expertise on the machinery.

A friend of mine has a BMW '3' which she ran w/out coolant (unknowingly). And this directly impact the head (which she learnt the hard way). Got the Engine changed altogether.

Go for an Engine change. And remember if in case you opt this, try to get a replacement warranty/guarantee of at least 7 days from the guy you buy the engine from (I'm assuming you'll buy a 2nd hand engine, aren't you?). Because you never know if the engine you're buying may already be a failed unit, which you'll get to know only after you fit it in the body of your car.

[Catalyst_delhi]

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer

. 4th pic - temp of the engine w/o aux fan within 10 minutes of in society driving...does look normal to me...i hate the lousy engine fan which slips 90% of the motion...still a suspect for me...

I am trying hard to DIY as far as possible coz the mechs eyes turn blue when they hear its a Mercedes + I'd rather blow my $$$ on Petrol ;-) plus It's a very good learning as well.

I really think the temperature should be at 85 - 92. Anything higher then depending on the engine , may blow

[DeepakMenon]

The prices that you paid are good..

What are the part numbers on the Relay?? Ideally the green one should be the muiltipurpose relay which is used for Aux Fan

The Temps are they ideally temps?? or bumper to bumper on a hot day? it does look a notch higher; mine with the AC is 85

The Red Connector in Pic 3 is the AC pressure switch which basically turns the fan on / off based; If your relay is not stuck and someone has not bypassed this pressure switch then the switch is faulty; replacing that means you have to refill the Gas as it cant be opened without losing all gas in the system

Prob that was the reason someone bypassed it to start with.. if i was you.. i will leave the fan for the moment... i dont see it doing any harm

Window Motors are expensive.. link on DIY for your issue

HOWTO: Replacing W124 Front Window Regulator (Saloon/Estate) - MBClub UK - Bringing together Mercedes Enthusiasts

[sportz_kruzer]

Originally Posted by DeepakMenon

The prices that you paid are good..

What are the part numbers on the Relay?? Ideally the green one should be the muiltipurpose relay which is used for Aux Fan

The Temps are they ideally temps?? or bumper to bumper on a hot day? it does look a notch higher; mine with the AC is 85

The Red Connector in Pic 3 is the AC pressure switch which basically turns the fan on / off based; If your relay is not stuck and someone has not bypassed this pressure switch then the switch is faulty; replacing that means you have to refill the Gas as it cant be opened without losing all gas in the system

Prob that was the reason someone bypassed it to start with.. if i was you.. i will leave the fan for the moment... i dont see it doing any harm

Window Motors are expensive.. link on DIY for your issue

HOWTO: Replacing W124 Front Window Regulator (Saloon/Estate) - MBClub UK - Bringing together Mercedes Enthusiasts

Thanks for the help Deepak. I tore down the window motor few days back and found that some crumbs of rust had lodged in to the worm gear mechanism thus jamming it..i cleaned the motor with diesel and lubed it with bearing grease and gear oil...now is as good as new. attaching pics..

secondly - my steering is hard at idle. I need to blip the throttle to get some assist. if i remember correctly , this was not the case before the swap. Post swap mech had put servo ATF fluid from the PP. I replaced it with Febi-bilstein brand fluid which the Merc spares guy recommended. It worked fine during and after bleeding but the issue soon returned. So what could be the issue? Which is the right grade of PW steering fluid for this merc? any specific bleeding procedure required? Is it possible that there air is entering from the pipe joint on the suction side??


MODS- please change the name of the thread to Restoration of W124 E220 as the head is not an issue anymore ...

[sportz_kruzer]

Originally Posted by Outlaw

Taking chances with head/replacement is a subject of risk. Moreover the engines are complex in European cars which is a big question if the mechanic hasn't have had an expertise on the machinery.

A friend of mine has a BMW '3' which she ran w/out coolant (unknowingly). And this directly impact the head (which she learnt the hard way). Got the Engine changed altogether.

Go for an Engine change. And remember if in case you opt this, try to get a replacement warranty/guarantee of at least 7 days from the guy you buy the engine from (I'm assuming you'll buy a 2nd hand engine, aren't you?). Because you never know if the engine you're buying may already be a failed unit, which you'll get to know only after you fit it in the body of your car.

yes I got a new engine at a lesser cost as compared to getting the old engines head overhauled. I did check the engine for 200 kms before returning the old one..

Poor beamer...so she got a new engine from BMW or a used one? what was the cost involved?

[Outlaw]

It was an e36 and she got a used one in Sharjah for 2200 AED like 33k INR

[Mun Chong]

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer

6. The fabric heat shield under the bonnet is missing - I felt the bonnet heats up quite too much. Will this ruin the paint?
......
8 There is a "light" thud from the back when I put reverse. is this normal?

Sorry to bring up an oldish thread but for item 6. about the heat shield in Singapore, a foam or rubber material is used. We believe that it will ruin the paintwork on the bonnet due to the engine's heat, paintwork might peel off!
The foam material also disintegrates after about 3-4 years although this depends on the weather conditions of your locale

Item 8 seems to be the coupling of the propeller shaft, aka flex disc. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater I think when this wears off, the clunk from engaging the Reverse gear will get more and more noticeable.