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-   -   "My Car Won't Start" | What To Do (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/132166-my-car-wont-start-what-do-6.html)

Yes it was a battery problem. But i did not do any cleaning of the terminals after the jump start.

So it has got me confused as to why i have not faced any problem subsequently even during cold starts. :confused: Need to try and find out the issue before going in for battery replacement just because it is a 5 year old battery.

It is a 2005 Ford Ikon Flair petrol.

Took it to the same FNG that i have been taking to for the same problem of coolant leaking out. After he changed the elbow (said he replaced it with a better quality one), I started it there and it started with its usual half turn. Drove it to store, stopped, shopped for 10 minutes, started and it again started in half turn. Stopped at another place for 2-3 minutes and then when I turn the key, it does not start immediately. Makes the chugh chugh cranking sound common in older cars when starting, and a slight press of the gas pedal made it start. Got it home, and after a couple of hours, went down to start it - same problem, give it a little gas pedal, and it starts. Didn't touch the car on Saturday whole day till late evening when I went to start, and the same problem - half turn or holding the key in the starting position would not start until i pressed the accelerator a bit, and then it starts.

Battery is all fine, since all accessories, headlights, etc come on as usual.

What am I looking at?

The earlier thread about coolant leaking is here with the coolant elbow that got replaced here

That sound on turning the key is almost like when a car has a dead battery, but mine seems to be ok considering the lights, etc...

Looks like bad IAC valve ( idle air valve) , You can try to disconnect your battery for 10 minutes and try again. If it does not work still then you have to change your IAC valve. ~2kINR @ car markets .

Ok, thanks!. Will give the battery disconnect a try once I am home where the car is :) The only change I observed this morning was that I had to press the accelerator pedal all the way and hold it there and then turn the key and hold it for 8-10 seconds and only then it would start.

If you are pressing the accelerator pedal all the way then what you are doing is clearing a flooded engine. In EFI cars , when you hold the accelerator more than 80% the injectors are switched off. Check for leaking injectors while you are doing the remaining 2 actions(battery ecu reset and ICAV)

Hi there !

I have a 2003 Mahindra Bolero with the engine rebuilt after doing about 1.5 L km on the odo.

The car runs fine and everything associated works fine.

But, I have a peculiar problem !

The car will not start when the engine is warm. But, starts at a turn of the key when it is allowed to cool for about 10 minutes.

Eg: If I like drive for about 20 minutes in Bangalore weather the engine temp needle moves up by about a centimeter or 2 . I turn the ignition off and immediately try to start it again. The engine just wont turn over and start!!!
But, by allowing it to cool for about 10 minutes, it starts with a single turn of the key.
This issue is getting really annoying.

To also mention, there are no issues with the car when engine is cold (early morn start) and during running.

My mechanic suggests that this issue will be resolved once the engine completes its running- in period as the functioning of the pistons needs to set.

To my knowledge, post browsing through a zillion websites of users claiming to have the same problem, it seems like a sensor issue.
Many of them talk about coolant sensors/cam shaft position sensors being faulty.

Kindly request all Mech gurus to advice on this forum.please:

Would be of great help if I could resolve this issue with your knowledge.

Thanks,
Sai

I suggest you get a different mechanic, because this one, obviously hasn't got a clue.

I'm not familiar with your particular car, I'm sure other members will pitch in with more specific knowledge, but here's my 2cts worth:

It could well be a sensor as you mentioned that is going a bit wonky and somehow gets affected by temperature. Easiest way to diagnose is put the car on an OBD analyser when the problem occurs. Make sure it can read the Manufacturer specific codes.

When you turn the key, do you hear anything? Sometimes the starter motors gets sticky, espcially with high temperature. Give a few bangs on the starter motor see if that helps.

Jeroen

Please get your starter motor serviced first. You probably have burnt out carbon brushes in the starter motor that need changing, and cannot carry the current when the motor is hot (due to engine heat). Also, a new engine needs more torque (and more current) to turn it over, and the starter is probably failing to do that.

I left the lights on for about 4 times in the last two months. Had to get it Jump started every time. Now the car doesn't start with the usual 1/2 crank. It does take a longer crank to start. Should I consider changing the battery?

Did the disconnect of the battery, but no change in behavior. This time took it to a Bosch Car Center in Viman Nagar, Pune. The chap turns out to be an ex-Talera ford engineer. He said it was the battery. The battery is about 4 years old (give and take). Got in a new Bosch battery (4500/-) and now the car starts on each quarter of a turn. :)

Now that I think of it, there was occasions in the recent few months when I had to turn the key a little more than usual, but not many occasions (maybe it was the battery's way of telling me - replace!)

thanks

Hey SS Traveller !

Thanks a lot for your input .

Ive got the starter motor serviced . Replaced the armature,new carbon brushes, new springs etc.,

Problem solved !

Jus drove the car for about 30km and tried to crank when hot and yes....it started !!!!

Thanks!
Saiclap::thumbs up

Hey SS-Traveller, I encountered a similar issue on my trip to Coorg last week. Can you throw some light on what could be the problem here?

I had parked my i20 Crdi in an open area overnight. The weather was generally cold with mist and slight drizzle. Next morning when i inserted the key to fire the engine, lights don’t come up on the instrument cluster. I instantly felt the battery was drained. So i ran away looking for a jump start cable.

While i was away, the taxi wallah who was accompanying us opens the bonnet and pours water over the battery:Shockked:. I came back empty handed unable to find the cable, tried firing the engine again, voila it roars back to life. Taxi wallah said he faced a similar issue in his Innova some time back so he tried the same solution to fix it.

I was amazed, as how can pouring water over live terminals bring battery back to life, probably there was some loose connection somewhere which got fixed due to pouring water. There was no corrosion to be seen on the terminals, but yeah the greasing was on a lesser side and a lot soot deposit was there.

I agree that the battery has aged, as it's the OEM battery which is now in its 3rd year. But every thing was hunky dory before the incident.

Was this hot water? Hot (even boiling) water is an excellent way of cleaning out the sulphate deposits on battery terminals and restoring contact.

If it's cold water, that's a jugaad that I've not come across before, and I have no idea how it might rejuvenate your battery!

My MPFI 2006 Esteem suddenly stops when and friend and I were driving down for a drink, thankfully it stops at a corner of a one way road. The 'Check Engine' light comes up and I was imagining the worst already! I tried starting it, but it wont fire up, even though it cranks. Then a good Samaritan drops me to a nearby mechanic and this kid checks everything, including fuses and the distributor cap and then tells me 'no spaaarks saaar!'. He tells I would need an electrician and leaves. We push the car near a parking lot and then still end up going for a drink and then in the morning get an electrician. He finds a faulty Relay and then the car stars, the battery had gone low, so he used his car to jump start mine. I paid him and started driving home. Later just near a mall, the car stops! Now there is no 'Check Engine' light! I pushed the car down in the parking lot and again called up the same guy. He later tells me the issue is with the distributor and asks me to replace it. He tells it might cost me 10K! I said fine, I will let you once I get it. I went home and the car was fine. From then on I have been thinking what to do. I am afraid to take it out now, however I have been starting it daily and keeping it running for a while, it has no issues. I am confused! Checked with a MGP parts dealer, he said a new distributor ( cap and rotor assembly ) will cost me 4K.
Should I go for it?

Buddy, My suggestion would be to first crosscheck the problem with another car mechanic and confirm that it is a faulty distributor that is causing you trouble. By and large the Esteems were trouble-free vehicles, so do let us know what you do finally.