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https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)
Check whether the caliper pins are not sticky/ seized.
Regards
Sutripta
Hello BHPians,
I have a 2008 Honda Civic MT with around 43k on the odo. I bought it pre-worshipped in 2013. The mechanicals were stock with some cosmetic modifications: body kit, aftermarket headlight and tail light assemblies.
I bought the car from a friend of mine. I have not used the Civic much since I was on the move. Now, that I'm back and in need of a daily ride, I need the car to be reliable.
The problems are:
1. The steering vibrates intensely when I brake the car from a 100+ kmph. Initially, I thought the issue is with the wheel alignment and got the alignment and balancing done. But, the vibration came back within just a week of the alignment. The car is running on stock tyres and alloys. But, the hubcaps are missing on all tyres since the previous owner lost it all when he was running it on 18" alloys with low profile tyres.
Can the experts please help me out in pointing out what the issue can be?
2. The car had an HID headlamp assembly (the blasters were shot) which I replaced with the stock assembly, more powerful bulbs and added a relay kit for it. But, the headlight performance is pathetic even with high beam. The headlamp assembly needs alignment, yes. But, even with the alignment, the headlights are not nearly as powerful as those on my NHC Vtec with a relay kit. This is a particularly huge problem that has turned the car into a 'day-time use only' car. Is the headlight cover the culprit?
Is there a solution for this?
3. I'm concerned about how the engine mounts are holding up since the engine shakes quite a bit during ignition and vibrates a bit more than it should when idling. How do I check if they are okay?stupid:
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharc_biker
(Post 3915288)
Hello BHPians,
1. The steering vibrates intensely when I brake the car from a 100+ kmph. Initially, I thought the issue is with the wheel alignment and got the alignment and balancing done. But, the vibration came back within just a week of the alignment. The car is running on stock tyres and alloys. But, the hubcaps are missing on all tyres since the previous owner lost it all when he was running it on 18" alloys with low profile tyres.
Can the experts please help me out in pointing out what the issue can be?
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This sounds like an issue with your brake discs.Have them checked. If they are not smooth (i.e have developed grooves in them) this is the culprit.
You would either need to replace the discs OR have them phased on a lathe to make the surface smooth again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by n.devdath
(Post 3912828)
Ok, here is what I would do, at any competent garage, if I were you.
1. Check the brake system for any other leakages. The wheel cylinders, the brake lines, and the calipers.
2. Check the general tightness of the brake pedal mount, its hinge, spring and swivel.
3. Check the brake shoes at the rear and the trueness of the drums.
4. Check the wheel balance at all four wheels and tie rod ends of the suspension.
5. Check wheel bearings, especially at the front for their condition and free play.
6. Check steering rod knuckles and their grommets for the condition and wear.
All the above steps can be finished in 2-3 hours with 2 mechanics working on the truck on a two post lift and they should help pinpoint the root cause pretty easily. There is a lot more that can be checked if the above steps do not help. Let me know and we can proceed accordingly.
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1. Have checked the brake system for leakages, it is fine. Even checked the brake oil, it is filled upto max level and the oil condition is good as well. The brake lines and caliper have also been checked and have been found OK.
2. Need to check the tightness of the brake pedal mount, its hinge, spring and swivel.
3. Brake shoes at the rear have been checked and they do not require a replacement. The brake drums had developed grooves and were skimmed on a lathe machine.
4. Wheel balancing and alignment has been done of the vehicle. The tie rod ends have also been checked and found OK.
5. Wheel bearings also checked and no problem was found in them.
6. Need to check the steering rod knuckles and their grommets for the condition and wear.
The mechanic said that I should get the old brake rotors skimmed and have them fitted and then check the car for any vibrations.
Anyone knows how the skimming of disc brakes is done?
Quote:
Originally Posted by amitsohanpal
(Post 3915450)
Anyone knows how the skimming of disc brakes is done?
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Its pretty simple. The brake discs are taken to a lathe shop and a thin layer of metal is skimmed off them by turning them on a lathe. Please make sure you do not shave off more than 0.01mm.
There are also other, more modern machines where the skimming happens with the brake disc mounted on the vehicle and the vehicle mounted on a 2 post lift.
Quote:
Originally Posted by n.devdath
(Post 3915749)
Please make sure you do not shave off more than 0.01mm.
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Are you sure? 0.01 mm = 10 micron. I'd probably shave off 2-3 mm.
Got the brake rotors skimmed on a lathe machine.
Will get it fitted and let you know about the results.
Keeping my fingers crossed.
Need Help, my brother's TATA Manza (2012 model) has a problem. When we apply the breaks in between speed of 100 to 120 kmph, there is a lot of vibration on the steering followed by a huge noise like (Wind noise). He changed both disc's 9 months back, when we checked at the service center, both discs are fine. But they were unable to find out the root cause. They said they need to do the Wheel Balancing, after that the vibration and sound still exist. Any suggestions and what could be the root cause. Also Please suggest some good service centers or Machanics in Bangalore for TATA Manza.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkothak
(Post 3994733)
TATA Manza (2012 model)... ...vibration on the steering followed by a huge noise like (Wind noise).
Any suggestions and what could be the root cause. Also Please suggest some good service centers or Machanics in Bangalore for TATA Manza.
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Was the car run through water?
Manzas are well handled by FNGs - better than Tata ASS at least :).
Ask an FNG to replace / grease the caliper pins, and put in new brake pads.
Quote:
...apply the breaks in between speed of 100 to 120 kmph...
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Please apply the
brakes - we wouldn't want you
breaking at those speeds!
Please apply the brakes - we wouldn't want you breaking at those speeds![/quote]
Hey SS-Traveller, I will inform my brother about it, also thanks for the correction -- :)
Hi,
Just upgraded the rims on my 2015 5E 1.8TSi DSG that come standard with 205 55 R16 and rims that are 6.5 inch wide offset 46 center bore 57.1 to 225 45 R17 Michelin Pilot Sport 3 (2016 manf.) with wheels by a brand called "Stance wheels" Made in Taiwan (sold by a wholesale importer in Bangalore India & claims he has knowledge for a decade) that are 7.5 inch wide and offset of 35 with a center bore of 67.1. This was done in a hurry (it was dark and raining) hub centric rings made of aluminium machined by a lath locally were installed but I could not check if there was any play or gap between the ring and rim or rotor.
That said the wheels were balanced (can they or are they lug centric or anything else) and alignment carried out with very minor toe adjustment. The installer did a short test drive and adjusted the steering which was a little cross (to the right) and all seemed perfect at city speeds of about 40-60 kmph. I did not want to drive hard as the tires were new and thought of following a 400-500km break in period.
Later I drove at highway speeds around 90-110 kmph very slowly building speed and to my horrific surprise there was a sudden and constant vibration from the steering wheel, pedals as well as the floor of the car and it only increased as I built speed:Frustrati forcing me to slow down and stay below 80kmph : I was heart broken and my dad who was with me at that time could feel the vibrations too in the passenger floor. He was disappointed but did not comment as it could be many reasons. Literally a sleepless night
I decided to ask you guys for some advise.
My Questions :
1. Have I messed up with the wrong offset (ET) of the rim. (14mm positive scrub) when I do a wheel size.com comparison. Skoda recommends a 49 offset with 7J width
2. If so can a spacer help?
3. I am looking to improve handling and corner better than before use the Michelins grip and explore their potential hence I went ahead with this upgrade.
3. Is this the cause of the vibration or could it be the hub centric rings are of low quality.
4. Can any other setting in the alignment compensate for the offset being different.
5. Am i jeopardising wear and tear of bearings & suspension with this setup.
The rims and tires do not stick out and fill the fender a little there is enough gap between suspension breaks wheel well etc. no rubbing whatsoever.
I plan to take the car to Madhus later today and hope they can help.
I am sorry if this has been asked before but everyones setup is different hence the newbie questions. Help please:
Thanks in Advance!
Mods: I started a new thread as this can help people choose the right rim size. Sellers hardly know about cars that are newer or hardly come in for a tire upgrade and don't sell that much. This can save anyone the time and agony I went through and think twice before upgrading to rims recommended by someone who probably does not have enough knowledge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhpbreather
(Post 4004964)
Hi,
Just upgraded the rims on my 2015 5E 1.8TSi DSG that come standard with 205 55 R16 and rims that are 6.5 inch wide offset 46 center bore 57.1 to 225 45 R17 Michelin Pilot Sport 3 (2016 manf.) with wheels by a brand called "Stance wheels" Made in Taiwan (sold by a wholesale importer in Bangalore India & claims he has knowledge for a decade) that are 7.5 inch wide and offset of 35 with a center bore of 67.1. This was done in a hurry (it was dark and raining) hub centric rings made of aluminium machined by a lath locally were installed but I could not check if there was any play or gap between the ring and rim or rotor.
That said the wheels were balanced (can they or are they lug centric or anything else) and alignment carried out with very minor toe adjustment. The installer did a short test drive and adjusted the steering which was a little cross (to the right) and all seemed perfect at city speeds of about 40-60 kmph. I did not want to drive hard as the tires were new and thought of following a 400-500km break in period.
Later I drove at highway speeds around 90-110 kmph very slowly building speed and to my horrific surprise there was a sudden and constant vibration from the steering wheel, pedals as well as the floor of the car and it only increased as I built speed:Frustrati forcing me to slow down and stay below 80kmph : I was heart broken and my dad who was with me at that time could feel the vibrations too in the passenger floor. He was disappointed but did not comment as it could be many reasons. Literally a sleepless night
I decided to ask you guys for some advise.
My Questions :
1. Have I messed up with the wrong offset (ET) of the rim. (14mm positive scrub) when I do a wheel size.com comparison. Skoda recommends a 49 offset with 7J width
2. If so can a spacer help?
3. I am looking to improve handling and corner better than before use the Michelins grip and explore their potential hence I went ahead with this upgrade.
3. Is this the cause of the vibration or could it be the hub centric rings are of low quality.
4. Can any other setting in the alignment compensate for the offset being different.
5. Am i jeopardising wear and tear of bearings & suspension with this setup.
The rims and tires do not stick out and fill the fender a little there is enough gap between suspension breaks wheel well etc. no rubbing whatsoever.
I plan to take the car to Madhus later today and hope they can help.
I am sorry if this has been asked before but everyones setup is different hence the newbie questions. Help please:
Thanks in Advance!
Mods: I started a new thread as this can help people choose the right rim size. Sellers hardly know about cars that are newer or hardly come in for a tire upgrade and don't sell that much. This can save anyone the time and agony I went through and think twice before upgrading to rims recommended by someone who probably does not have enough knowledge.
|
Look, you have broken cardinal rules about buying a Skoda (!), doing such crucial changes in a hurry, in the dark(!) and without a post-installation comprehensive test drive. Do not worry, go to Madhus, get them to investigate and keep us in the loop.
In future, do not blindly trust such "decade'nt" experts. Bangalore has it's fair share of bad eggs with very glib pre-sales and a "caveat emptor" attitude afterwards...
***Need help in resolving the grinding noise on a brand new car***
The car in discussion is an Alto800 with 250kms on odo.
Here is the scenario
1. I crank the engine
2. Let it idle for few moments
3. I rev the engine intermittently
4. I hear this grrr...grrr...corresponding to my intermittent revving.
5. This seems to be coming from the lower centre of engine bay.
6. I Slot it into gear and accelerate and I again hear the same noise all the time.
7. It is worse on top gear with or without AC.
8. But when I accelerate slowly...very slowly this noise isn't heard.
On a new car, I only imagine the sweet 'purr' at decent rpms.
This noise is eating my mind. Please advice.
Bump....have I posted in the wrong thread?
Hello All,
I have 2 concerns in my Ertiga.
1. When i press the brake hard, sometimes it shudders but 90% of the time it is fine. I read in one of the articles in this same forum that if the brake pads are bad, shudder will be noticed and disc's are damaged. I have got the disc and the brake pads changed from Surakhsa Bangalore. Do I need to ask them for this brake pads, as I dont want them to replace brake pads with another brake pads of the same brand.
2. When i move the steering to the right or my left, it has a squeaking sound. This sound comes once in a while and then vanishes for more than a month and comes back again. I notice this when I am taking a turn or when the steering wheel is in play (moving left or right). I tried taking this to these MASS and they are not being able to replicate it. I read articles which states that either suspension, wheels, ball bearings, struts, could be mistaken. I dont want to tell this to MASS guys, else they will start replacing everything only to be left with a poor bank balance and a un resolved problem. While the noise looks like mechanical, with the steering wheel, may have become dry because of lack of grease, it does make me worried. I can upload the audio which I recorded today. Can someone tell me what this means to the steering wheel.
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