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My 2013 Thar CRDe has a clutch problem. I don’t know what it is. I need some expert help. Here is the story. A year and a half ago I was going up a very steep winding road here. A proverbial “short cut” I had negotiated many times before. It is so steep the Thar has to do it in first gear with plenty of throttle. It is also narrow and curvy with a sharp deep concrete ditch on the left side and a 400-600 foot cliff on the other side. It is oneway, up, the way I was legally going. I get near the top and around a corner comes a large tipper the wrong way, downhill. Right behind me coming up fast are 3 delivery trucks and 3 taxis, no chance to stop and back down that way. The tipper’s spotter gets out and signals me forward and to the left. The tipper, of course, cannot back up this hill out of the way. He is way too heavy for that. I have to burn the clutch just to get started again, forward up the steep hill. My hand brake is of no use (thank you, Mahindra, for that). With my left side tyres actually a little over the ditch lip and my right side 1 inch from the tipper, I inch forward, at high revs, burning my clutch on the steep hill in order to move very slowly forward and up. No other choice. I made it after about a minute of this. The burnt rubber smell of my clutch is now in my nostrils as I get passed him.

But then my clutch pedal feels funny. It is hard to depress. The Thar still shifts, the clutch still engages/disengages but the Clutch pedal is hard to operate. I take it in to the dealer who installs a whole new “clutch pack” that includes, clutch plate, pressure plate, diaphragm springs and some lesser parts. There seemed to be a slight improvement but then any time I drove a little agressively, especially if I downshifted, the clutch pedal would immediately get hard to depress. A couple weeks back I replaced the same clutch parts again, including diaphragm springs, at the suggestion of the dealer. You guessed it, the clutch is still hard to depress and gets harder to depress if you drive aggressively and downshift a bit (I rarely downshift and never at high revs.) The clutch never falls to the floor nor does it fail to return upon clutch release. There is also now, a little chudder/shudder as you engage the clutch on starting up in first gear. Its impossible to start up without this chudder/shudder unless you give no throttle at all and just let out the clutch. My Invader has the same clutch and tranny and it shifts as smooth as a baby’s bottom and always has. I am relatively easy on clutches historically, losing one only of my many past clutches, mostly to age of the vehicle.

I am going in to the dealer this week. Do you guys have an inkling what is wrong with this thing so that I can give these tech guys a clue what to look for?

Just the two symptoms, clutch pedal hard to depress, and a little chudder/shudder starting in 1st from a stop.

Sir

The pressure plate bolted to the flywheel exerts constant force, by means of a diaphragm spring, on the driven plate, you need to check that first whether the assembly is okay.

The series of coil springs at the back of the pressure plate was better than the diaphragm spring and hence there wasn't any issue earlier.

The driven (or friction) plate runs on a splined input shaft, through which the power is transmitted to the gearbox.

The plate has friction linings, similar to brake linings, on both its faces, which needs to be checked and verified for smooth clutch engage.

For the clutch disengaged (pedal depressed)position, a thorough check of the arm needs to be done to assess the push of the release bearing against the centre of the diaphragm spring which again releases the clamping pressure.

This last bit may be where the trouble is...maybe. Diaphragm, clutch plate, pressure plate has been replaced twice.

Hello all
I have a Dec,2010 i20 which has clocked 23000 Kms. It's not used much, only about once every 20 days or so as I'm away and parents don't use it.
Today I had to travel to a place about 80kms away and so I took it out. Everything was fine till about 35kms on the highway except the clutch felt a bit harder than the usual.
As I entered the city, I had to stop at a red light. When the signal went green, I engaged the first gear but the car refused to move. I realised there was something wrong with the clutch and the gear wasn't engaging.
Somehow I managed to push the car to the side with horns blazing behind me. Called up the Hyundai roadside assistance, they connected me to the nearby service centre. They asked me to get the car to their centre myself as they did not have any people and won't be able to tow it.

This took about 30 mins, hopeful I tried starting the car and the clutch was working now. Taking a gamble I drove the car back to my place with minimal gear changes as possible. Tomorrow I'll take the car to the local Hyundai ASS.
Can anyone please shed some light on the issue.
Thanks.

My Accent (2009 - Executive) might need Clutch Overhauling, at 45k!! :deadhorse

Symptoms -

1. Slippage test : Car is stalling towards the end of Clutch pedal depress
2. Shuddering while releasing clutch in 1st and 2nd gear
3. Loss of power (Mostly torque delivery, I could not feel the top end deteriorate)
4. Chirping noise while engaging and disengaging clutch (This happens only for longer drives in the city - Stop & Go traffic)
5. Stalls quite often.

I never ride on the clutch and always follow the best practices, Not sure why the clutch went kaput so early. What do you guys feel? Anything else might be the issue here?

Looks like the O/H would set me back by 6 Grands (approx.)

Also, there is a Free Car Care Clinic organized by Hyundai (24th Oct - 2nd Nov, 2015). Hyundai owners could get a check-up done.

Hi,

I am driving Fiat Grande Punto 2008 1.4 8v 77ps in Germany.
It is an used car and I bought it last month. It was already driven for 1,44,000 kms.

I used to experience clutch judder every morning when I start from 1st gear and after few mins when the engine becomes warm there will be no clutch juddering.

Today when I was driving in city, my car refused to climp up in a slope (not too steep) and stalled several times. Finally I managed to climb up using park brake.

But after this incident I felt slight vibration when driving normally. Also even in small slope, I have to give more gas than normal to pull off from stop (e.g. From red signal) and there is noticeable vibration in the clutch pedal during clutch pedal release.

I tried to test the clucth using park brake. I pulled the park brake, engaged 2nd gear released clutch pedal: engine switched off after a little vibration at the end of clutch pedal release.

Guys please give your opinion and suggest me any other test method to check whether clutch is burned off.

Thanks in advance.

Update:
Today morning I went to workshop to check the clutch. The mechanic did the test and told clutch is working fine.

He engaged park brake, engaged 1st gear and released clutch slowly without giving gas. The car moved and engine did not stall. He then repeated the test with reverse gear and again car did not stall. He told if the clutch is kaput then engine would have stalled. But I read the opposite in this thread somewhere that engine should stall if the clutch is in good condition. I tried the same test yesterday with 2nd gear and 3rd gear. In 2nd gear engine stalls after some 70% pedal release and in 3rd gear engine stalls immediately after pedal release.

I drove the car yesterday night and today morning. There is no vibration at all and the clutch was operating as usual. Regarding deviation in engine rpm, usually it will be 2000 RPM@70 kmph (5th gear) but now I notice it to be between 2100-2200 RPM. I am not sure about this RPM deviation because I am driving this car only for past 20 days and I do not know the exact RPM-speed ratio.

I am confused still whether clutch is working fine or should I check with other workshop to get 2nd opinion.

I found a good read on clutch problems, troubleshooting and servicing at the below link. This is not specific to any manufacturers or brands. I find this useful and hence sharing. Click on the link you will have the PDF document open.

http://www.g-w.com/pdf/sampchap/9781605252131_ch07.pdf

Hi all,

I drive a 2012 WagonR VXi which is at 30600 kms and since the last couple of days, the engaing of the 1st gear has become very difficult. I drive in bumper to bumper traffic on western express highway in Mumbai. Works butter smooth for abut first 10 kilometers, then the 1st gear engage becomes tough, i need to put extra pressure on the clutch to get it to 1st gear. Can anybody please help me with this ?

Do i need to get the clutch replaced. On my last 30000 service the SA said the pressure plates might give away. Requesting help from the experts and knowledgeable members.

Regards
Dieseltuned

Seems more likely to be a problem with worn out synchronizing rings. Try slotting to 1st at standstill from neutral. If it goes smoothly, and the only issue occurs when downshifting from a higher gear to 1st while the car is in motion, then your problem is likely to be worn out synchronizing rings.

At 30600 kms, its highly unlikely that the clutch plate would go, unless you're riding on the clutch.

Symptoms:

1. Mileage drop
2. Heaviness in clutch pedal play
3. Gear slotting esp to 1st from neutral (and vice versa) and from 2nd to first is heavy. As in, gears are not engaging easily (need quite a bit of efforts, though 3rd gear onwards, shifting is still OK)
4. noticeable decrease in pick up and general slight loss of power as compared to what it was earlier

Is this a case of clutch assembly (or parts therein) needing a change?

Hi All,

I have a 2012 i20 sportz petrol which has around 45k kms on the odo. Regularly serviced and no issues so far whatsoever.

Had been on a out station trip this Saturday and faced a really wierd issue. I was doing about 80-100 kmph with the RPM around 3k. At times when I tried to increase the speed above 100 in the 5th gear, the engine would rev and the RPM would keep climbing without any increase in speed till I let the foot of the A pedal. This happened a couple of times before me having to switch to lower gears because of the traffic. For once I faced this problem in the 4th gear as well and the problem disappeared as soon and suddenly as it had appeared. Also this happened only for a small part of the onward trip and the return leg was absolutely fine

The first thing which came to my mind was a worn out clutch but there were no symptoms of it (no soft pedal, not shifting issues, no grinding noise, no shuddering etc.). I even tried the 3rd gear test a day before the trip and it showed the clutch was in shape so far. The car was pulling absolutely fine in all gears and was easily even reaching 130-140 without any issue otherwise (this was done only for a second or 2 to recheck the issue and in places where the road was straight giving me visibility of at least 1-1.5 kms).

I even checked the FE after getting back to again rule out a clutch wear, and was surprised to see around 17 kmpl for the round trip, the best I have got off her so far in around 4 years. Even today, she drove absolutely fine without any fuss and drama.

So really confused as to what I should be looking for. Master/slave, leakages, cables? Any pointers would help.

I understand an accurate diagnosis will absolutely not be possible but I am just looking to narrow down the areas which could have caused this. Any help is appreciated.

MODs - I did not find another thread on this and hence opened a new one. Please move/merge as appropriate.

Possible things that can be done :

1) Get a scan done, its the first line of diagnostics for anything.

2) Check the catalytic converter at the service station, it might be clogged.

3) Check the clutch anyway, it may not be slipping but who can tell.. of course this may be the last resort if the above 2 aren't leading anywhere.

Also, I wouldn't drive a car if the problems are anything closely related to engine or motion.. too big a risk to take. I know Hyundai stations know next to nothing about repairs or diagnostics and I usually have to hold their hand for every little step, but sometimes there is no choice but to take their opinion. The above 3 are minor issues and can be sorted easily, so its better to get the checkup out of the way quickly so that any potentially mounting problems can be sorted.

Master/slaves.. not likely, cables.. not at all likely specially since the i20 has a hydraulic clutch (almost sure) and leakages, possible but lets not jump to any assumption till an actual mechanic opens up the hood.

You have a worn out clutch friction plate. Apart from the clutch in the entire drivetrain from the engine to gearbox, to diffs to tyres, there is nothing else which will slip to enable a change in rpm and no change in speed.

The loads at high speeds are much higher than at lower speeds, and the clutch is finding it difficult to transfer that much load/torque to the gearbox to move the engine. Its failing and slipping and hence only the engine revvs and the vehicle doesnt move.

Also, worn out friction plate doesnt always mean soft pedal, shifting issues, grinding noise or shuddering.

Thanks a bunch. Surely helps but is it possible that this happens as a one off because I have driven almost around 150kms (excluding the 200 odd kms of the outstation trip) in the last 2 days without any issue at all.