Team-BHP - About clutch wear & replacement

Quote:

Originally Posted by honeybee (Post 4573917)

The clutch surely doesn't have memory, so the reason may be something quite different.
Does the clutch feel hard in the mornings or evenings?

No. IMHO, the clutch feels lighter the next instant I drive.

Quote:

Originally Posted by a4anurag (Post 4574015)

Seat position may be different in between both of you guys hence it may be one of the reason for different pedal feel.

Seat position is always checked before driving. Moreover, my chauffeur and I have similar heights.
I'll have to check the problem out via the back to back driving bit.

Anyone has any YouTube recommendations to clutch control which I can see and replicate? My generic searches is showing different varieties, and am getting confused.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashis89 (Post 4573765)

I have been servicing the car at my FNG for the past 3+ years. He gets MGP parts always. But I see on Boodmo there are options from Exedy and Valeo. Wanted to know if I should be choosing from any of these.:)

MGP clutch should still come in 2 brands but not sure about K-Series WagonR. Valeo and Ceekay (Exedy). My WagonR's latest clutch is Ceekay but has Exedy engraved on it. I have been preferring Ceekay over Valeo for my own reasons for my WagonR since day 1.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sharktale (Post 4574024)

No. IMHO, the clutch feels lighter the next instant I drive.

...

Anyone has any YouTube recommendations to clutch control which I can see and replicate? My generic searches is showing different varieties, and am getting confused.

Get the clutch bled, any air trapped in the system may change the feel of the clutch.

For clutch control, what are you specifically looking at? Smoother take offs or hill climbs?

Quote:

Originally Posted by paragsachania (Post 4573451)

77K on stock clutch from a Petrol is above average. I won't mention beyond this because the 4 symptoms listed also hint at end of life for the clutch.

Time for replacement and do ensure to replace the whole kit - Pressure Plate, Cover Assembly, Release bearing along with Flywheel and Cable too!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by honeybee (Post 4573581)

Early warning signs the clutch is packing up. Please get it replaced.

I took the car to my FNG, told him the symptoms and asked him to take a drive. He took an aggressive TD and even rode the clutch while accelerating, for a couple of seconds. In the end he concluded that the clutch is healthy and absolutely fine. Acceleration is strong enough and the drop in FE should have a different cause.

Could he be right? He has been running a fairly large and popular garage for the past 20+ years.:). Should I take a second opinion? Only thing holding me back is the fear if I ask any garage or MASS guy about acceleration/FE, they would be happy to point at the clutch and eager to change it even if it is indeed healthy.stupid: I took a quote over phone from the nearest MASS for a clutch overhaul. It would take 1 full day and 7500+ INR for the job.

Regarding the drop in FE, I remember the FE has fallen since the last service >3k kms ago, where he had changed the spark plugs. Could this be the reason?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashis89 (Post 4572893)

I drive a '11 WagonR 1.0 which has run ~77k kms and is still on the original clutch. Since the last two weeks, clutch has started feeling spongy and no feel. I see the following changes:

1. Clutch feels softer/lighter than earlier.

4. The clutch bite point has reduced/gone down and the last <50% of the travel, actuates the clutch. It was definitely much higher earlier.

Thanks,
Ashis

These two points indicate the clutch fluid is running low and hence air has gotten into the system. It requires topping up of the clutch fluid along with bleeding. Should take 15 mins at a FNG.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Parth46 (Post 4573741)

I get the feeling the noise is increasing, the revv needle is rising, but the car is not moving ahead with as much urgency as it used to.

Your clutch is slipping.

It could be due to worn out plates (that means a problem within the clutch itself, possibly needing replacement), OR due to the clutch being actuated without the clutch pedal being pressed (that means a problem in the hydraulic circuit or the default position of the clutch pedal).

Typically the first condition is the usual cause.

Since you mention a correlation with brake fluid bleeding, it's possible that something went wrong there, though am not sure what. The usual problem with bleeding if not done correctly, will be a spongy or dead clutch and difficult shifting, and clutch being engaged even if you press the pedal - quite the opposite of a slipping clutch.

My 14 month old TUV 300 has just completed 13000 Km. I've been confused by one aspect of its clutch and gear mechanism for quite some time now - I wonder if anyone can tell me if this sounds fishy or not.

Let's say I'm in city traffic, up-shifting from 2nd gear to 3rd gear. I usually raise the RPMs to around ~2000 (give or take 200 RPMs) prior to up-shifting. When I press the clutch, I can swear that I feel a minor grinding (or a metal on metal) sensation on my foot via the clutch pedal when the RPMs are still high. This feeling wears off when the RPMs subside. Is this expected behavior?

I haven't reported this to Mahindra since the service guys politely hear me out but won't listen to my complaints or observations.

Quote:

Originally Posted by locusjag (Post 4578395)

Let's say I'm in city traffic, up-shifting from 2nd gear to 3rd gear. I usually raise the RPMs to around ~2000 (give or take 200 RPMs) prior to up-shifting. When I press the clutch, I can swear that I feel a minor grinding (or a metal on metal) sensation on my foot via the clutch pedal when the RPMs are still high. This feeling wears off when the RPMs subside. Is this expected behavior?

Check for the brake fluid reservoir level, if its fine, then I think clutch bleeding should resolve it.
Probable reason you do not notice at low rpms is that there is lesser stress(higher friction) on the clutch plate when the flywheel is rotating at lesser speed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by anand253 (Post 4442819)

Hi

I have the same model (Aug 2012) and have gone through the same issues as you a couple of months back. My car has approx 58k on the odo and given to understand this is a fairly regular reported issue - given the car behaviour in 1st/2nd gears and heavy traffic :). I had great difficulty in engaging the reverse and lower gears (heavy grinding noise too) - no issues in pickup/ slipping/ revs etc. You would have to get the clutch bled, replace the fluid and inspect the cylinders - In my case the pedal first sank and the master was replaced as it was covered in oil along with the one-way valve (this rarely gets damaged and had to be ordered from Chennai taking about 10 days). While I had read that both the cylinders should be replaced together the SM was insistent that it was not required at this stage and went ahead with his opinion. Behold my slave gave up in a month! Now this still didn't solve my hard slotting and grinding and got both the plates replaced and flywheel serviced after inspection (costs about 12k to replace) subsequently along with the slave. The car drives as good as new now.

Got it done at HASS next to my place as I know them well now with the correct OEM replacements giving piece of mind. Hope that helps.

Hi
I have 2011 Verna CRDI, now done 101 k. Will go for clutch overhaul in 2/3 days. Have spoken to HASS & got a quote of appox. 20 k. To me the quote seems ok. The SA says, cluth & gear shifting will become same as a new car. Now the problem in my car is same as described by you. Reverse gear is now grinding more often even after fully pressing the clutch.
What all the parts those require replacement? Can you please list out, so that I can have a final discussion with SA, before going ahead. Also I plan to get the job done in my presence.
Thanks

Strange thing happened this Saturday morning when I went to take out my Fiat Linea TJet for a drive. The clutch pedal had completely sank:Shockked: At first I thought that somebody might have stolen the clutch pedal, but later realised that it was there lying there, lifeless. Lifted it back to position, but there was no response.
In a state of shock I called a Fiat Mechanic who had serviced my car during the last two visits in FASS. He came to inspect in the evening and said that the Clutch bearing has gone bad due to which oil had leaked. He said that entire clutch bearing would be replaced. Since the car has run 57,000 km, he said that the clutch plate might also have to be replaced. Estimate given:
Clutch bearing : Rs 8500
Clucth Plate & Bearing: Rs 18000
Labour: Rs 3500

He said that since the car is TJet variant, entire gearbox has to be dismantled to replace the clutch kit.
I had recently bought the car (pre-owned) and have already spent over Rs 20,000 in servicing.:Frustrati

Couple of questions for the experts:
a) The clutch was acting perfectly normal. Wasn't hard or slipping. How could this happen when the car was sitting idle for a week? Is it normal?
b) Should I get the clutch plate replaced? My running is around 300 km per month.

Thanks in advance

Quote:

Originally Posted by MBond007 (Post 4581277)

What is the state of the master and slave cylinders? Read through some of the earlier posts on this thread, may not be related to the plate.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MBond007 (Post 4581297)

They look good. Does that mean that the only clutch bearing has gone kaput?

Can't be sure if its just the release bearing. They will have to open it up, in that case its best to replace the entire clutch assembly i.e. plates, flywheel and bearing. But get it checked at the service centre and be present when they open it. If I remember Ford's clutch assembly is around 12 to 14K, Fiat's could be higher. Your quote for just the bearing is very high, is it inclusive of labor?

Rs 3500 will be the labour charge even if the bearing is to be changed. FASS guy said that since the gearbox has to be dismantled to access the bearing, this will be the charge. Bearing will cost Rs 8500 (part) and clutch plate will cost Rs 9000 (part).
Is there a chance that it might not be serious issue and can be addressed at a lessor cost? Am thinking of getting a second opinion, but don't know any reliable mechanic in Noida whom I can consult.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MBond007 (Post 4581277)

Strange thing happened this Saturday morning when I went to take out my Fiat Linea TJet for a drive. The clutch pedal had completely sank:Shockked:

If the clutch pedal sank to the floor and is limp, its not a problem with bearing or the plates. Its the problem of master cylinder, so have a second opinion.

Its not a complicated problem for a mechanic to assess, may be take help of any good roadside garage, and if you have confidence in him he will be able to replace it at much more reasonable cost.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PGA (Post 4581826)

I agree with PGA. This sounds as a hydraulic problem. Either the master or the slave cilinder has gone kaput. Easy fix and it doesn’t not involve take the whole gearbox of the engine!

Jeroen