Team-BHP - About clutch wear & replacement

Quote:

Originally Posted by arindambasu13 (Post 4573439)

What is the likely issue if there is a distinct squeaking noise whenever the clutch is pressed down (but clearly before the operative portion of the press down starts). Basically, its the "blank" bit of the clutch travel (about a couple of inches of travel when the clutch pedal is first pressed), right before the pedal gets into operation and before the clutch bites/ actuates. Hopefully I am able to convey the correct question.

There is otherwise no issues with the gear change, the clutch operation or softness / ease of use of the clutch. There is also zero noise or roughness in the actual "operative travel" of the clutch. This is on a new manual petrol car travelled less than 1000 kms. Am I correct in assuming that all that is required is probably greasing/lubrication of the clutch?

Most likely it's the clutch pedal spring that is making the squeak. A little oil or grease should fix it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashis89 (Post 4572893)

I drive a '11 WagonR 1.0 which has run ~77k kms and is still on the original clutch. Since the last two weeks, clutch has started feeling spongy and no feel. I see the following changes:

77K on stock clutch from a Petrol is above average. I won't mention beyond this because the 4 symptoms listed also hint at end of life for the clutch.

Time for replacement and do ensure to replace the whole kit - Pressure Plate, Cover Assembly, Release bearing along with Flywheel and Cable too!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashis89 (Post 4572893)

I drive a '11 WagonR 1.0 which has run ~77k kms and is still on the original clutch. Since the last two weeks, clutch has started feeling spongy and no feel. I see the following changes:

Early warning signs the clutch is packing up. Please get it replaced.

This failing clutch should be the reason for the lower FE in the past month.:)

Quote:

Originally Posted by paragsachania (Post 4573451)

Time for replacement and do ensure to replace the whole kit - Pressure Plate, Cover Assembly, Release bearing along with Flywheel and Cable too!!

Noted. Thanks a lot!

I read that Maruti clutch can be from different brands, such as Valeo. Any thoughts which one I should be insisting to be used?

Quote:

Originally Posted by arindambasu13 (Post 4573439)

Honda City? I've seen this problem in mine and few cities and a friend's amaze. It's quite common. The service guys know what you're talking about before you can finish your sentence. Lubrication helps, but only for a few weeks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rayjaycleoful (Post 4573628)

Yup I know it's common in Hondas. As long as it's not a serious issue and just a minor irritant I'm fine with it. Has it caused any major problems at any time?

Of late, I feel the acceleration in my Honda City 2014 iVtec has reduced a bit in the 3K+ range. I do get the decent push whenever I cross 2K in a hurry, which goes on till 3/3.5K thereabouts, but soon as I cross that I get the feeling the noise is increasing, the revv needle is rising, but the car is not moving ahead with as much urgency as it used to.

I suspect something with the clutch - it's smooth & light but has become a bit non-linear in how it lets the car move forward. Maybe time for a transmission oil change (never done), clutch bleeding (never done) or some similar routine maintenance.

Must mention at this point that some level of brake fluid bleeding was done in Oct 2018 as part of routine service - but since then braking has lost a bit of bite, pedal is a bit wooden/vague, and also the clutch issue I mentioned above. Since the car uses the same fluid for the brake/clutch, I suspect proper bleeding might sort out these niggles?

Even on engaging cruise control, reducing speed a bit, and then hitting RESUME, the car doesn't move as eagerly forward as it used to.

Overall in top shape, only 30K done, fully synthetic oil etc.

Maybe time for Mobil 1, new spark plugs, new air filter etc?

Thanks for your inputs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by honeybee (Post 4573669)

Why not just try MGP?

I have been servicing the car at my FNG for the past 3+ years. He gets MGP parts always. But I see on Boodmo there are options from Exedy and Valeo. Wanted to know if I should be choosing from any of these.:)

Quote:

Originally Posted by ashis89 (Post 4573765)

Sticking to MGP should be fine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kashyapz8055 (Post 4449289)

Now he is telling that Release bearing might have gone bad and it requires complete clutch overhaul.

Quote:

Originally Posted by honeybee (Post 4449293)

If the See if it can be replaced under warranty citing premature failure.

Release bearing in the Baleno is known to wear out prematurely. In my 20k run car, I've had issues with release bearing twice. I know at least 3-4 Balenos in my circle that have got release bearings changed. Search on the Baleno ownership thread and you'll see posts on this.

If I were you, I'd escalate to get a completely free replacement of the release bearing.

Query:
I regularly drive a 2014 Hyundai Grand i10. It's had a clutch replacement in the last year.

I am noticing one thing, that if I drive the car, the next time I sit in it, the clutch is hard to press, whereas if my chauffeur had driven the car, and I sit next time to drive, the clutch is relatively easier to depress.

Is this because of any wrong technique of driving? I generally don't play the clutch, but being in the city roads, it's sometimes necessary. Please advise on my what can go wrong and should I visit the FNG for the same?

Cheers!

Quote:

Originally Posted by sharktale (Post 4573881)

I am noticing one thing, that if I drive the car, the next time I sit in it, the clutch is hard to press, whereas if my chauffeur had driven the car, and I sit next time to drive, the clutch is relatively easier to depress.

Seat position may be different in between both of you guys hence it may be one of the reason for different pedal feel.

Why not go for a drive back to back with the chauffeur?! See if there is a genuine difference.