re: Engine oil levels coming down, but there's no leak Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaggu Not for a Suzuki design engine, in good health.
Before opening spark plugs, just check the exhaust tip. It is a very easy check to do. |
Not sure about this particular Suzuki Alto, but on other versions the owner manual states:
From chapter 3.2 both Alto variant: Quote:
Engine Oil Consumption
It is normal for the engine to consume some engine oil during normal vehicle operation.
The amount of engine oil consumed depends on the viscosity of the oil, the quality of the oil and the conditions the vehicle is driven under.
More oil is consumed during high-speed driving and when there is frequent acceler- ation and deceleration. Under high loads, your engine also will consume more oil.
A new engine also consumes more oil, since its pistons, piston rings and cylinder walls have not yet become conditioned. New engines reach the normal level of oil consumption only after approximately 5000 km (3000 miles) driving. Oil consumption:
Max. 1.0 L per 1000 km
When judging the amount of oil consump- tion, note that the oil may become diluted and make it difficult to accurately judge the true oil level.
As an example, if a vehicle is used for repeated short trips, and consumes a nor- mal amount of oil, the dipstick may not show any drop in the oil level at all, even after 1000 km or more of driving. This is because the oil is gradually becoming diluted with fuel or moisture, making it appear that the oil level has not changed.
|
See: http://www.marutisuzuki.com/owners-manual.aspx
There is this persistent misconception that (car) engines should not use any oil, or very little (whatever that might be). Or that an engine isn’t in good health if it uses oil. That is simply not the case.
In most cases as long as you don’t notice any performance degradation there is usually not much to worry about.
Also, note the remarks in the Suzuki manual that stipulates that not using oil, by looking at the dipstick, is difficult as the oil tends to get diluted over time.
So for all those forum members with engines that are not using oil, something to think about. It’s just a case where good oil gets substituted by moisture, fuel and dirt! And your dipstick reading stays about level!
From this thread: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post4215507
I quote from my advise there: Quote:
There are roughly speaking three main reasons for oil consumption. The most obvious is the engine just leaking out. This tends to be very visible as you will see oil and dirt underneath the car/engine. Second is problems with the the piston rings. The bottom ring is supposed to scrape the oil down into the sump. That could be a problem, or even worse, several piston rings have issues. Which means the oil is able to get on top of the piston where it will get burned. You might see a loss of engine power due to poor compression. The only way to verify is to have a proper compression test done on each cylinder. The remedy is to replace the piston rings which is always a very big job.
The third reason could be related to the seals around the (exhaust) valve stems. If they become poorly oils gets drawn into the cylinder where it gets burned. Tell tales are black smoke from the exhaust if you come of the throttle.
The remedy is to change the seals. Some cars/engines are very prone to this problem. (E.g. Alfa Romeo). Depends on the type of engine, but on most you can replace the seals insitu.
Using an oil with incorrect specifications could be a possible fourth reason.
So, when an engine has a high oil consumption this is what to do:
- ensure the oil is compliant with your car manufacturer specification
- check for visible leaks
- check color of exhaust gas on and of the throttle
- compression test
There could be other reasons but the above covers most cases I think.
|
In this particular case, as suggested check color of exhaust gas when accelerating and also when coming of the throttle (preferably at high RPM)
If you want to be sure, you need to do a compression, or better yet, a so called blow by test. The compression test takes 5 minutes for a mechanic with a compression meter. The blow by test usually takes a bit longer and requires some more kit.
Good luck.
Jeroen
Last edited by Jeroen : 19th June 2017 at 22:43.
|