[laluks]

The Issue:

Bearing noise from the left side of the Car.

When:
1. While stationary after starting and in Neutral
2. While in movement, in all gears. More predominant at gears 1, 2,3. Though the noise is there at gears 4, 5 the speed of the car and wind noise makes it difficult to notice.
3. Goes away when clutch is fully pressed

How to identify:
After starting, in neutral listen to the bearing noise in a silent zone with your car. Press the clutch completely in, the bearing noise stops, since we disengage the gears. Release the clutch slowly back, the bearing noise comes back.

If you get a noise while pressing the clutch in, it is a noise from your release bearing.

Diagnosis:
INPUT SHAFT BEARING NOISE

How does it sound? How can I recognize?
Here's an audio of the issue

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qs_iTXgDt40

I had this issue on my Civic, you can read about that here (Pictorial: Replacing the gearbox input-shaft bearing on my Honda Civic)

What Should I do if I get this issue?
You need to change the Input Shaft Bearing. The OEM bearing is from SKF. It is a Deep Groove Bearing. While you do that, its a good thing to replace the Oil Seal as well.

OEM Part Number
1. 24155 M 68K40 - INPUT SHAFT BEARING, Costs Rs170
2. 24151 M 68K00 - OIL SEAL, Costs Rs 20

Input Shaft Bearing


Oil Seal


It would be advisable to do this at a good garage, since the whole Gearbox have to be downed and you need the genuine components, trained mechanics, access to good quality tools and a lift. You would definitely be looking at a full day of down time for your car.

If you can source this components, since these are not moving items, you can work with your trusted FNG. Key here is the component, and it's quality. Since this is a labor intensive job with huge downtime, its better to do it with original components. Well, we don't want to keep opening Gearboxes all the time, do we?

What did I do? What was wrong with my Swift?
I wanted to clearly understand the issue, so I asked my trusted and Skilled Mechanics at my favorite FNG to down the gearbox and show me the Input Shaft Bearing.

Here it is as expected: See the broken bearing!


The parts were not available locally. Since by now with the previous experience in Civvy, I was quite sure about this and had sourced the parts from Boodmo before the exercise.

The broken and the new bearing for comparison


It took almost a day to down the Gearbox, to remove the bearing and assemble back, and to put the gear box back in place. Labour intensive work, indeed.

More about the work and pictures in subsequent posts.

[laluks]

The gearbox after removal is kept on a tray for further work


Mechanic started to open it up


Removing the gear shifting assembly




And there we have the gearbox opened up

You can see the gears, shifting rods, and the differential


The differential


There we go, we removed the input shaft bearing. You can see the oil seal (the top one)


The broken input shaft bearing


The new one


Comparison - broken and new

[laluks]

The top cover


Disassembled the whole gearbox for cleaning up and removal of any metal pieces that might be there from the broken bearing


The gears and the shifting rods




The differential




A look into the components inside the gearbox

1 - is the input shaft
2 - is the oil seal
3 - is the input shaft bearing


The input shaft bearing (1)


This is the input shaft bearing LH, 14 in the picture, part number is 24165M68K20. Looks good, so not changing this guy.


After thorough cleaning we started to assemble it all back.

The differential assembled, the hole to the left is where input shaft fits.


You can see the old oil seal still in place. It was good.


But as a good practice we changed it with new

[laluks]

Assembled it all back


You can see the new bearing




Time to close the case, seal compound being applied


Adding the gear shifting assembly


Gear shifting assembly done


Now that we have downed the gearbox and did so much, I thought to have a look at the crankshaft where the flywheel is attached. It also has a bearing, and that is also called Input shaft bearing.

Crankshaft diagram

17 - is the flywheel
19 - is the input shaft bearing

We removed the flywheel and got the bearing. The bearing also had some noise, so we decided to change it.

After removing the flywheel, and the bearing


The Flywheel (17) - I also wanted to change it


The input shaft bearing (19) details

[laluks]

Flywheel Details


New flywheel


Comparison with the old flywheel


Now that all this happened, thought of checking the clutch and replacing it if life is less proactively

Clutch details

1 - is the pressure plate
3 - is the friction plate
4 - is the clutch Release bearing

The old clutch friction plate


Its almost done


So we decided to change it too

Friction plate details


The new friction plate


Comparison with the old worn out one


Pressure plate details


The new pressure plate




So now only release bearing was left in the transmission part, so we change it too

Release bearing details


Clutch Release bearing




Well that makes it all new and good to go. So we assemble the gear box back to my Swift. A small bearing change gave me a good time to change all the needed part and its good to go a long way now.

[laluks]

Some relatively different jobs were also done on the swift. Since it was on the lift, I kept checking out the suspension components too. To my shock the front struts were leaking. That was too bad!

Both left and right struts are leaking crazy, needs immediate replacement






Bush is cut, so we need a change of arms as well


Strut Details Right Side


Strut Details Left Side


The new struts




Link rod details






Arm details



The new arms





Well, now we have the front suspension taken care too

[laluks]

Time for New Battery too




I did not like the old ground cable, changed that too

Battery Ground Cable details






Filled the gear box with Wurth Gear Oil




All these activities were done in October 2017. Swift has done 25K Kms after that, and is doing quite well. This January Swifty became a teenager at thirteen and 87K Kms on Odo

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Sorry if off topic but why was there difference in the price of LH and RH Struts?
RH Strut cost approx. Rs. 300/- more than LH Strut.

[laluks]

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

Sorry if off topic but why was there difference in the price of LH and RH Struts?
RH Strut cost approx. Rs. 300/- more than LH Strut.

May be something to do with taxation or manufacturing dates or different batches. They look the same

[chiranjitp]

First of all thanks for compiling such an informative thread along with photos & part numbers. Will be very helpful for Swift 1.3 P owners like me (I too have a 06 Swift Zxi). In my car thankfully there is no sound from the gearbox yet, though I will a keep an eye on it.

I did however get the whole suspension overhauled, including rear shock absorbers. Now the car rides better & suspension works more silently as well. The clutch on my car is still very light, though there is a prominent judder while starting off in 1st gear. Maybe, I would get that replaced as well going forward. Did you find any difference in acceleration after changing the clutch?

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

Sorry if off topic but why was there difference in the price of LH and RH Struts?
RH Strut cost approx. Rs. 300/- more than LH Strut.

Originally Posted by laluks

May be something to do with taxation or manufacturing dates or different batches. They look the same

This got me thinking, so I checked the part numbers of the Struts that I had bought. Same story here as well, around Rs. 300 difference between them. The part numbers also matched. I guess the difference is most likely due to different vendors.

Here is the part numbers of the Struts:

[laluks]

Originally Posted by chiranjitp

The clutch on my car is still very light, though there is a prominent judder while starting off in 1st gear. Maybe, I would get that replaced as well going forward. Did you find any difference in acceleration after changing the clutch?

The clutch had judders, and after the change it went off. But by the look of the clutch friction plate it was almost on its end and explains the judder. But it did not slip at that stage. After change it became light and was good to drive. Acceleration wise did not notice much difference though.

[Jeroen]

Job well done, thanks for sharing! How easy was it to get the new bearing on the input shaft fitted?

Jeroen

[laluks]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Job well done, thanks for sharing! How easy was it to get the new bearing on the input shaft fitted?

Jeroen

The labor intensive part was the removal of the gearbox from the vehicle and opening it up. Once opened, removing the input shaft bearing and replacing with new bearing and the new oil seal was fairly very easy and quick.