[cpbopanna]

Originally Posted by saurabhb2000

Experts /Mod,

After having done clutch overhaul on my swift DZire Diesel at 51000km now, my service advisor at MASS tells me that we should use these gear/speed combinations for fuel efficiency

above 10kmph - 2nd Gear
above 20kmph - 3rd Gear
above 30kmph - 4th Gear
above 40kmph - 5th Gear

However when I try to use these combinations the RPM is pretty low(like switching to 5th gear at 40kmph - the RPM is just 1200). Is it advisable to drive at such low RPMs as I get a feeling that engine/car is stressed out to move at that RPM?

Helpful recommendations are requested to maintain longer clutch life and fuel efficiency. Thanks.

It is unfortunate that road speeds are still being as indicators/triggers for gear change when most of the vehicles are provided with tachometers.

That being said, changing gears upwards at the appropriate low speed does help improve fuel economy. However, upshifting too early will result in the lowering of the ELF (engine life factor) and the life of the clutch since these two bear the brunt of lugging the vehicle when less torque is available.

Not downshifting when torque drops also results in reduction of engine and clutch life. Driving in the wrong gear invariably stresses the engine and drive-train.

I personally upshift @ 2000 rpm in diesel engines when looking at economy and @ 3000 rpm in performance mode. In petrol engines, the two engine speeds would be 3000 rpm and 4500 rpm respectively (unless it is a turbo-petrol where the torque kicks in earlier).

Kindly note that these are only my personal preferences.

[drsnt]

Dear Friends, need a advise, I recently bought a Swift ZDi Aug 2011 made 42000 kms old. I am new to MJD, earlier I had driven Indica Diesel 2 yrs back. I was driving Wagon R and Honda City till now.
There is no judder or slippage of clutch, It functions smooth. I have driven just 300kms till now

Recently my friend Owner of Maruti Showroom from whom I got this car drove my car and said that the clutch seems to be weak.

Please advise on how to evaluate the clutch condition? I feel no zudder or slippage.

I do feel panicky as instant fuel consumption shows 5-6 kmpl in 2nd gear. But was able to achieve 21+ on instant consumption around 65kmph in 5th gear on straight road. Is it normal? my driving is very less around 1.5 km to work place. What average should I expect?

I have changed engine oil, gear oil, greased all bearing, coolant changed. Any other thing I should get done? Can EGR valve cleaned at FNM

[a4anurag]

Congratulations on owning the finest car in its segment.

Originally Posted by drsnt

Please advise on how to evaluate the clutch condition? I feel no zudder or slippage.

Try the handbrake test to know the condition of the clutch by yourself.

Quoting a post by SirAlec:

Pull the hand brake (provided handbrake is in good condition) start the engine, shift to high gear. Then try to drive the vehicle forward by slowly releasing the clutch pedal.

If the engine stalls you are lucky. A badly slipping clutch may allow the engine to run, even with the clutch pedal fully released. Partial worn out clutch could let the engine run momentarily before stalling.

Since you feel that there is no judder and slippage, I don't think there is a need to worry unless the previous owner was killing the clutch. Just try this test to know it yourself.

Originally Posted by drsnt

I do feel panicky as instant fuel consumption shows 5-6 kmpl in 2nd gear. But was able to achieve 21+ on instant consumption around 65kmph in 5th gear on straight road. Is it normal?

2nd gear and 5-6 kmpl?!

Use Average FE rather than instantaneous data as it depends how much the throttle pedal has been depressed. A fully depressed pedal will display 4-5 kmpl and if the throttle is released completely it displays 30 kmpl so using average FE is better.

FE will be lower when the car is driven in lower gears for a longer time.

Originally Posted by drsnt

My driving is very less around 1.5 km to work place. What average should I expect?

1.5 kms is a small distance for the engine to even reach its optimum operating temperature. It generally needs 6-7 kms @ 50-60 kmph in 5th gear.

Since you are getting 21 kmpl in 5th gear, there is no issue with the car. So relax and enjoy the Swift.

Anurag.

[void_001]

Hi Guys

Need some help. I have a swift Vxi 2007 model which has clocked around 38k. I have found it pretty difficult to change the gears (upshift from 1st to 2nd & downshift from any to 2nd) - the difficulty is in terms of the gear shifter being tight in these 2 transitions. When I'd informed this to MASS this April during the normal service, they did some changes (sorry, don't know exactly what changes they were) and was fine for about a month. The problem's back after that.
Tried a few things:
1. The handbrake clutch test (variation 1 - from Sir Alec) - pulled the handbrake, started the car, put it in 4th gear, slowly released the clutch (handbrake still on), car tried to move forward a bit, but then stalled
2. The handbrake clutch test (variation 2 - in first gear http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/?t=1708) - the engine does stall again
3. The slip clutch test; both the revs and speed seemed increasing at constant rate; no sudden rev burst without speed increase

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijhrDgxRweM

Based on these I think there are no problems with the clutch.

Even tried greasing the gear shift stick (http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post2289045, with no luck.

Any pointers would help. Thanks in advance!

PS - in the meantime, I 'am' building nice chest muscles thanks to this equivalent of bench press

[cpbopanna]

Originally Posted by void_001

Hi Guys

Need some help. I have a swift Vxi 2007 model which has clocked around 38k. I have found it pretty difficult to change the gears (upshift from 1st to 2nd & downshift from any to 2nd) - the difficulty is in terms of the gear shifter being tight in these 2 transitions. When I'd informed this to MASS this April during the normal service, they did some changes (sorry, don't know exactly what changes they were) and was fine for about a month. The problem's back after that.

Any pointers would help. Thanks in advance!

PS - in the meantime, I 'am' building nice chest muscles thanks to this equivalent of bench press

The symptoms indicate that the synchronizer rings of the second gear are worn out (it comes in a set of two).
Please replace the set of synchronizers and your gear shift will be smooth as new.
However, please note that the gearbox needs to be dismantled to replace the synchronizers - a full day's work!

And while you are going about it, please replace the first gear synchronizers too.
Usually, the first gear synchronizers fail first, in case they haven't, it's just a matter of time.
With the gear box dismantled, it would be economical to replace the first gear synchronizers alongside.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by void_001

Hi Guys

Need some help. I have a swift Vxi 2007 model which has clocked around 38k. I have found it pretty difficult to change the gears (upshift from 1st to 2nd & downshift from any to 2nd) - the difficulty is in terms of the gear shifter being tight in these 2 transitions. When I'd informed this to MASS this April during the normal service, they did some changes (sorry, don't know exactly what changes they were) and was fine for about a month. The problem's back after that.

Along with what cpbopanna has said, do look at the gear shifter linkages.

Would require attention too.

Anurag.

[void_001]

Originally Posted by cpbopanna

The symptoms indicate that the synchronizer rings of the second gear are worn out (it comes in a set of two).
Please replace the set of synchronizers and your gear shift will be smooth as new.
However, please note that the gearbox needs to be dismantled to replace the synchronizers - a full day's work!

And while you are going about it, please replace the first gear synchronizers too.
Usually, the first gear synchronizers fail first, in case they haven't, it's just a matter of time.
With the gear box dismantled, it would be economical to replace the first gear synchronizers alongside.

Thanks for the quick response cpbopanna. Would the MASS be preferable or can I get it done outside? I remember reading that the gear box dismantling is not a trivial piece of work. And what could be the total damages I should be expecting? Any idea?

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Along with what cpbopanna has said, do look at the gear shifter linkages.

Would require attention too.

Anurag.

Thanks Anurag. Will get the linkages checked up too. Anything specific that I'd need checked up on?

[cpbopanna]

Originally Posted by void_001

Thanks for the quick response cpbopanna. Would the MASS be preferable or can I get it done outside? I remember reading that the gear box dismantling is not a trivial piece of work. And what could be the total damages I should be expecting? Any idea?
?

I would recommend a MASS handling the job, for them it is routine, nothing complicated!

Total damages of not more than 5k is my wild guess!

[void_001]

Thanks Anurag & cpbopanna. Will get it checked up soon.

Don't know if this is OT, but wanted to check since I've been receiving mixed feedback from a few people -
Up-shifting - is it OK to up-shift from a lower gear to another non-sequential upper gear provided the speed & rpm are in sync? I up-shift some times from 2nd to 4th if the speed is right
Down-shifting - is it OK to downshift from a higher gear to a non-sequential lower gear? I use this more often - like 5th to 2nd or 3rd when the speed reduces.

Is this fine or will it lead to problems in long run?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by void_001

Don't know if this is OT, but wanted to check since I've been receiving mixed feedback from a few people -
Up-shifting - is it OK to up-shift from a lower gear to another non-sequential upper gear provided the speed & rpm are in sync?

Is this fine or will it lead to problems in long run?

No issues at all and I do it too. You get good engine braking from this but do it sensibly and do keep an eye on the revv counter as it shouldn't reach the limits.

0 - 20 kmph = 1st to 2nd
20 - 35 kmph = 2nd to 3rd
35 - 55 kmph = 3rd to 4th
55 - 70 kmph = 4th to 5th

All the above speeds are when the RPM is at 2000. So keeping the gear and vehicle speed in these ranges will be good.

PS: I drive a Swift ZDi.

Anurag.

[void_001]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

No issues at all and I do it too. You get good engine braking from this but do it sensibly and do keep an eye on the revv counter as it shouldn't reach the limits.

0 - 20 kmph = 1st to 2nd
20 - 35 kmph = 2nd to 3rd
35 - 55 kmph = 3rd to 4th
55 - 70 kmph = 4th to 5th

All the above speeds are when the RPM is at 2000. So keeping the gear and vehicle speed in these ranges will be good.

PS: I drive a Swift ZDi.

Anurag.

Yep, I follow this too (well, more or less; I change to 4th around 40-45 and to 5th around 60-70). Since I don't redline I think I'm kind of safe.

[su48]

Hi, there were two issues with my Swift Dzire Zxi (Aug 2014 make):

1. Pretty hard (heavy) clutch; get leg pain if I drive in city traffic.
2. Brake lever was bent towards the left side.

Had complained to dealer about the aforementioned issues and got the following response:

1. Clutch - No issue; clutch is good.
2. Brake - No issue; cannot be corrected.

After I started getting pain on both the legs escalated the matter to the Customer Care manager (dealer), the brake lever was replaced free of cost cost and clutch lever adjusted. However, I still feel that the clutch is a bit heavy. Is this normal in a new Swift Dzire? What should I do? Should I file a complaint with Maruti Suzuki? Your valuable suggestions are welcome!

[cpbopanna]

Originally Posted by su48

After I started getting pain on both the legs escalated the matter to the Customer Care manager (dealer), the brake lever was replaced free of cost cost and clutch lever adjusted. However, I still feel that the clutch is a bit heavy. Is this normal in a new Swift Dzire? What should I do? Should I file a complaint with Maruti Suzuki? Your valuable suggestions are welcome!

Since a petrol car does not have a hydraulic clutch, it should not be that heavy. Please test drive another petrol Swift/Dzire and compare!

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by su48

Hi, there were two issues with my Swift Dzire Zxi (Aug 2014 make):

1. Pretty hard (heavy) clutch; get leg pain if I drive in city traffic.
2. Brake lever was bent towards the left side.

Had complained to dealer about the aforementioned issues and got the following response:

1. Clutch - No issue; clutch is good.
2. Brake - No issue; cannot be corrected.

After I started getting pain on both the legs escalated the matter to the Customer Care manager (dealer), the brake lever was replaced free of cost cost and clutch lever adjusted. However, I still feel that the clutch is a bit heavy.

The clutch in my Dzire is feather light. It sinks in at the least pressure. The only thing I dont like is it has greater throw compared to my other cars. SX4 has very less throw so it is kind of hard. I thought that my WagonRs clutch was very light but this one is even lighter. So was the clutch of a Swift Zxi my uncle brought a year back. There is an issue for sure. Compare it with another swift and show it to the TSM. They can help you out if the dealer isnt admitting the issue. Overall in my garage I can rate in terms of hardness SX4>WagonR>Dzire.

[racer_ash]

Dads 2008 and 44k run Swift (P) had a very prominent judder in lower gears especially when starting with more than 1 adult or when trying to start off from an incline. My dad initially did not face this issue with his driving style but once he drove my 4 yr old 38k run i20, he could immediately feel the difference. Since we both do not stay in the same city, the time between me noticing and he acknowledging was almost close to 1yr. Also, he stays in a small town and the MASS there could not diagnose correctly, we exchanged cars and I took it to Mithra agencies at Madhapur, Hyderabad. Since one of the SA there is an acquaintance, he correctly diagnosed the issue as a worn out clutch and recommended replacement of the whole assembly.

He also says that since dad continued to drive more than a year with this issue, the front wheel link rods as well as the front wheel ball bearings too need replacement. Additionally, the front suspension mounts bush needed to be changed as there was a prominent thud when going over rough roads (which I had noticed, but did not feel out of place)

Since we have spent close to nothing on the swift from the time of the purchase apart from regular servicing cost, I gave him the go ahead. He estimated 6.8k for the clutch assembly and another 2.5k approx. for other parts(excluding labour). At the end of the day he finished the job in 11k (incl labour). Am pretty happy with the job done. Clutch has become super smooth and pedal depresses even with a feather falls on it but since I went late for picking up, I forgot to check whether he had put the old parts in the dicky (common practice with Hyundai and Honda service). Only after couple of days did I realize it and on calling, he said it would have been scrapped by now.

Now my question to you guys:

1) Is there any way of knowing if he did indeed replace the whole assembly (apart from the fact the clutch is super smooth)
2) IS he right in saying that suspension related components too get affected by the clutch judder.

Thanks in advance.