Team-BHP
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https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)
Going to get a stage 1 in my elantra 1.6 crdi auto, so clearly with higher torque the interval should decrease and the cars only at 30k kms right now. Will have to look into this- thanks for sharing !
Also you guys reckon what kind of oil it is and how much will it cost?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Indian2003
(Post 5178530)
Most user manuals state that The automatic transmission is filled for life. |
I'm
very curious as to which user manual says that ATF is for life! I've not seen such a thing. Most responses here also suggest a manufacturer recommended time period. My own 2012 Honda City (with TC, not CVT) has 60k as recommended runtime for ATF change. I'd be happy to be corrected here, but I honestly feel if this quote was a eye-grabbing headline to get attention. I seriously doubt anyone ever considers a lubricating fluid to be filled for life. Only possible explanation is that some users may consider 'life' as some sort of average duration of ownership / mileage as single owner.
Quote:
Originally Posted by the.city
(Post 5258722)
I'm very curious as to which user manual says that ATF is for life! I've not seen such a thing. Most responses here also suggest a manufacturer recommended time period. My own 2012 Honda City (with TC, not CVT) has 60k as recommended runtime for ATF change. I'd be happy to be corrected here, but I honestly feel if this quote was a eye-grabbing headline to get attention. I seriously doubt anyone ever considers a lubricating fluid to be filled for life. Only possible explanation is that some users may consider 'life' as some sort of average duration of ownership / mileage as single owner. |
The most common ones are as follows:
BMW (ZF8HP TCs): Although the transmission manufacturer ZF states the oil needs to be changed every 100K miles or 160K km, BMW says it's sealed for the life of the car. Here's a sticker for further proof. It's pasted at the bottom of the pan on the GB:
VW Manual trannies: It's a known practice to change manual tranny oil too because it's obvious the fluid is going through constant heating and cooling cycles apart from lubricating cogs and bearings and carrying all the metallic crud that results when they grind or mesh with each other. However, VW states the oil is for the life of the tranny. It isn't even present as a maintenance item inthe scheduled maintenance charts.
Several Jetta owners complained of a humming noise around the 60-70K km mark when making turns at slow speeds. It turns out the oil had lost viscosity and was causing the differential to whine.
I also came across another case of Hyundai ATFs. Hyundai has a very neatly detailed and organised chart indicating the model, oil capacity and ATF type for each and everyone of its cars in India. It even says change the oil for better performance and longer life of the transmission. But go to their service schedule charts and the damn ATF oil change doesn't even exist there rl:
Dealers also won't be very keen to do it, because they either don't stock ATF oil often, think it's too labour intensive or think it doesn't make them enough money. They ride on this "sealed for Life" bandwagon since not changing the ATF is anyways going to cause repercussions very late, late enough for the car to be out of warranty.
This is no clickbait or eyeball grabbing headline. This is the ultimate truth and I would go to the extent of saying it's the pinnacle of engineering obsolescence. Some manufacturers like Honda still prescribe change intervals, however most don't bother these days.
I remember seeing that pic when I searched for this topic too. I believe it was
this website. Even that website suggests that 'lifetime' in this context is some standard duration of ownership or just a 'life of warranty'. The website doesn't appear to be a shining example of reliable information but the same sentiment is repeated elsewhere too. It is also similar to what you referred to as planned obsolesce. I do stand corrected about the eye grabbing headline. It seems that the combination of workshop-side deterrent (labor intensive) and manufacturer intent (lack of written procedure) is the current trend.
Quote:
Originally Posted by svmvale
(Post 5257366)
I agree, when there is a transmission, its always best to re-new the lubricant.
I read in this forum, VAG recommends change of transmission fluid every 1,20,000 kms on its DQ200 gear box.
As precaution, i got it done at 90,000 kms itself. My FNG said, max load on gear box comes while reversing while in full turn. He was able to feel the difference on my Vento. |
DQ200 is a dry-clutch gearbox and mechatronics is oil cooled but completely sealed unit. Which fluid did your FNG replace?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnrajdeep
(Post 5258864)
DQ200 is a dry-clutch gearbox and mechatronics is oil cooled but completely sealed unit. Which fluid did your FNG replace? |
The DQ200 has two oil circuits.
- One is the standard GB oil circuit which is present in the gearbox body itself. It lubricates the cogs and the bearings and also serves to cool the mechatronics externally
- The other is the mechatronics fluid which is hydraulic fluid used to actuate the solenoids
Both can technically be changed, but all dealers claim the latter is sealed and change the former at best.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vishy76
(Post 5256913)
The second point which I have often come across is to not flush or change the oil on a very old TC where the oil has never been changed before for very long. Just like an engine, sometimes the crud and the old oil deposits are what stops the torque converter from slipping and holds it together.
Flushing the GB and changing the oil too late could actually cause it to start slipping. Of course, if you haven't changed the oil on time and never will, there will be a point when the gearbox will fail completely (most probably the solenoids due to the bad ATF). |
Is this coming from Scotty Kilmer? Saw this in one of his Q&A videos. Never seen a live example though
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumer
(Post 5263228)
Is this coming from Scotty Kilmer? Saw this in one of his Q&A videos. Never seen a live example though |
Not only him, lots of mechs insist on this. I personally observed this on a Chevrolet Cruze too. ATF not changed for a very long time, then suddenly flushed and changed. GB worked perfectly for around 1000-1500km and then started slipping badly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vishy76
(Post 5263238)
Not only him, lots of mechs insist on this. I personally observed this on a Chevrolet Cruze too. ATF not changed for a very long time, then suddenly flushed and changed. GB worked perfectly for around 1000-1500km and then started slipping badly. |
In such scenario, just replace 50% of the old ATF with new one. Run for 5000 kms. Then do a full fluid replace.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Indian2003
(Post 5178530)
the ATF only works for 40,000 km [/i][/b]and so on the protection mileage is reduced.
Do not risk suffering a mishap related to the transmission fluid automatic, make the change in the corresponding period and avoid paying more for not doing it. |
This gives me chills. I was under the impression that I do not need to change the ATF in my Verna's AT box, which is 'sealed for life' as claimed by the manufacturer.
The car has now run 55000 Kms. Should I go for an ATF change or even flush? Is that even possible in so-called 'sealed for life' AT boxes?
Quote:
Originally Posted by vishy76
(Post 5263238)
Not only him, lots of mechs insist on this. I personally observed this on a Chevrolet Cruze too. ATF not changed for a very long time, then suddenly flushed and changed. GB worked perfectly for around 1000-1500km and then started slipping badly. |
I got an explanation as to why the GB slips after changing ATF after a long time.
https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxxfeyLBY...nH_dem14QYyUk4
Quote:
Originally Posted by echo77
(Post 5461818)
Found this interesting video of AT fluid change in a Hyundai i20 |
I was searching for ATF change in sealed 6-speed Hyundai boxes, and I stumbled upon a video made by an Indian guy.
He was happily filling away Castrol Magnatec 10W40 engine oil into the AT box! :coldsweat Not sure if he actually used ATF within the can of the Castrol engine oil.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtoVLdy3_8I
Then I came across a video made by a mechanic in the US, he knew what he was doing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qb0nUkwwOOU
has anyone from Cochin changed their oil for a VW ?
or knows FNG who's competent enough to do it ?
One of the first things I did after buying my Mini Cooper (pre-owned) was to change the ATF. Because the car was 7.5 years old and had run nearly 34000kms. BMW India will not support all this. They keep banging on about a Lifetime Fluid. This is absolute balderdash. There is nothing in this world like a lifetime fluid except perhaps one’s blood. And that also alters with age. More so in harsh operating and climatic conditions like we have in India.
BMW will sell us the ATF but not the transmission filter and magnets because they just don't sell ‘child parts’.
So I bought the JWS3309 ATF at BMW India at a high price as compared to its price anywhere else in the world.
And I bought the transmission filter and magnets etc via MiniMania in the US, imported it in,paid the freight and duty and put it to use.
You can see for yourself how the fluid had thickened and darkened with age and the sludge build up in the transmission fluid filter is visible. Contrast this with how it all looks when fresh and new.
Its a fiddly job. But it is worth it. So I did it. And the car is happier for it, I am sure. I know I am happier having done it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by clevermax
(Post 5461829)
I was searching for ATF change in sealed 6-speed Hyundai boxes |
Have you gone ahead with ATF change for your Verna?
I too own a 2018 Verna Diesel AT and have observed the car strains going from 2-3 and 3-4, I mean I have to push the accelerator harder over at least 2,000 rpm for it to change to next gear in 2-3 and 3-4. It sometimes also feels confused b/w these gears.
Does it mean I should go for ATF change, my car has run almost 60k primarily in Delhi NCR traffic. Or it can be something else?
When I rarely shift manually these shifts b/w 2-3 and 3-4 are pretty smooth as the auto shifts in D mode in other gears.
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