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I simply meant the 1st row in the ac controls. With reference to this pic, I meant the blower controls. Is there supposed to be illumination in that upper half too?




Also, I believe I have one more stupid question, but what does the rectangular button on the extreme right do. It is the push button that you see under the indicator column (right) as per this reference pic:



Apologies for these basic questions. This is dads old car which I inherited and I don't know a lot about it plus the manual has been long lost.

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1. Top right should illuminate (not the fresh air selector button).
2. The rectangular button on the bottom right is the rear demister button.

1. Distributor has got nothing to do with your compression. Disconnect the dizzy and please perform a compression test.

2. Pouring a small amount of oil into the bore and performing a comp. test is called a wet test. It will SHOULD show you a higher comp. reading, but do a dry test and also perform a leak down test.

3. A clutch cannot be redone, it can be replaced only, plus, if your flywheel is burnt or glazed, such juddering can occur. Please take it to a competent mech and then have it checked.

4. Erratic idling can be a clogged IACV. Please do more research on that.

Thank you.

@mods - Also will upload all future pics to teambhp. Will remove those pics as my doubt is solved anyways.

1. Yes, the blower speed setting should illuminate
2. The rectangular button activates the demister/defogger on the rear glass

3. I see wires dangling over your clutch/brake pedals - please get these fixed.
4. Don't apologise for any questions that you have; we all learnt the same way :)

Thank you. Wrt to #3, thats not my car. I sneakily pulled some images from Google image search as reference. Will not do it again.

Last weekend I had wanted to drive up to Mt. Abu for a trip and had the car serviced at my local garage before leaving. Before servicing the car, the car was making mild squeaky noises from the front wheels while it was in motion which would come and go and never really bothered me in my light 5kms a week usage. I had suspected it was an alignment issue as the road near my house where I drive around is more sketchier than a politicians reputation. Not wanting to risk anything I asked my garage guy to check the alignment and also to check the brakes as I'd surely be relying on them while in Abu and he agreed to check it out along with regular service. When I went to collect the car the next day before leaving, the car seemed perfect.

Its only when I started driving 200kms to abu road that the noise returned and it steadily slowly got worse- this time with some burning smell. Having no option, being so close to Abu and with the sun setting I went ahead with the climb anyways. By the time I reached the top, the squeak had progressed to a scraping noise and even the braking action of the car felt extremely rough during usage which worried me as I suspected that the brakes were gone, but still the garage guy assured me on phone that he checked everything and instead told me that a stone/rivet probably must've gone in the brake caliper. Frustratingly, I avoided using the car as much as possible on Friday and Saturday, but finally Sunday came and I had to leave. Since I was worried about the brakes failing completely, I convinved everyone to stay back on Sunday evening in the hopes that we could do something on Monday if things got worse with shops being open.

Monday morning I started climbing down and the noise and smell got even worse the more I used the brakes. I and all my friends were frightened to the point that we didn't dare risk going any faster than 30kph until we reached down abu road and decided to get this fixed come what may. Thankfully we found a decent repair shop fast and he immediately told me (by looking at the disc brakes through the gaps in the wheel with a torch) that my left side brake pads are shot and need immediate replacement which we agreed to.

This was the condition of one of the brake pads when he finally got to it-

(Upper one is the replacement)

I can't tell you how much I cursed the garage I went to. Anyways, this fellow took an hour to do it as (apparently) the calipers hadn't been touched in years (cursed the garage guy more) and he only had type b vtec brake pads and had to source the type a brake pads from someplace else. With my supervision he seemed to do a decent job and after that the car was 100% perfect for the entire way back. He charged 1200 for the brake pads and 200 for labour. He used some 'Value' brand brake pads and assured me they are good for 30,000kms and not to worry about anything. It was only this one brake pad that was this bad, the other left pad and one right side was below the replacement line but atleast had something on it, while one of the right side ones had little of the lining left (line was visible).

Anyways questions I had was -
1. Is this Value brand any good? Should I consider changing them to something else now that I'm home. Performance wise they seem to be the same as my last brake pads.
2. I noticed the disc of the left side brakes seemed a slightly scratched (visible in the image as well). I don't suppose it needs replacement yet, but would it need to be polished or anything? The abu road repair guy said the brake pads will polish it on its own and not worry.
3. Judging by the irregular wear patterns- that my calipers may require replacement. I guess only studying these new pads will confirm this, but out of curiosity - how much will new brake calipers cost me?
4. Suggestions on killing my garage guy and making it look like an accident. (haha jk)

TIA

1. Value or Valeo? The latter is only heard of making clutch systems, not sure about brake pads. 'Value' never heard of, no results on Google as well.
Use them, how bad can they be? If you start experiencing difficulty in braking or hear those grinding sounds again then it will be worth a look.

2. You can get the disc polished or skimmed depending on the amount of damage. Scratches on the surface are normal though.

3. Calipers don't require any replacement. Rotors, pads, caliper pins, brake booster, brake cylinder etc need to be looked at

4. :uncontrol

OHC 1.3, 2001 model

I have what is probably a minor issue. I had the car washed and waxed. The music system and the lighter/charger point are not working since.

I did a visual inspection of the engine bay. There are no loose wires. I pushed the music system on its corners. It seems as tight as before. As is the charging point.

Would anyone have any idea what may be wrong? I don't care about the music system as its a tape player actually. I'm tired of the one tape of iron maiden I have. I do need the charging point for my phone.

Maybe you blew a fuse? Just check the fuse box above the accelerator pedal. There should also be a sticker describing the fuses.

Definitely seems to be a blown fuse. Please check the fuse box and replace with a new fuse only. Don't let anyone do the wire 'jugaad'

Hello guys,

I have bought a pre owned Honda city 2004 gxi (NHC) almost 6 months back.

There are other problems which I'll ask once I get a solution for the below issue.

When driving the car its RPM is a bit high. When I leave the accelerator pedal rpm does not come down immediately, it takes 2 seconds or so to come down and while driving when I press the clutch to change gear the rpm shoots up and there is a accelerating sound like vrrrummmmm. This happens for all gears whever I press clutch. Also when I go above 100 and stay there like for about some time the RPM starts to shoot. Instead of regular rpm it will be way above it. For ex if normal was 2500 at that speed it will be at 3500 and there will be that accelerating sound (the sound you get when clutch is pressed while still accelerating) and I'm not putting my leg anywhere near clutch at that time.

Also the RPM issue is there when AC is on it will be way more noticeable. The AC will also cut off after sometime if there is too much heat outside (after driving for sometime or if in traffic for too long. It will then blow normal air. When I turn it off and on and play around with it then it works again.

Also the weird issue is that when the AC is on and the above said issue happens rpm acts crazy and goes very high. When I put it in neutral it goes to 2500 rpm and stays there till I turn off AC or press the clutch :Frustrati

This is very frustrating guys please shed some light on this and tell me what kind of a figure (cost)/I should be looking at to resolve this.

Mileage is around 75000km
Make and model : Honda city 2004 gxi

Check your engine coolant levels. Also it sounds like something's wrong with the TPS (throttle position sensor). Get that checked and you might also need to clean the throttle body. Not sure about the cost but it may not be too high.

Thanks for the reply bowser, coolant is full and has been replaced after purchase + new engine oil. TPS and throttle body has to be checked.

If anyone can just give me a rough figure I'd be happy.please:

Apologize for the late reply. I was out of station.
Thanks for your answers ankitahuja and bowser.

So I checked the fuses. None were blown. I interchanged them just to see if one of them was pretending to be alive. No difference.

Then I noticed a red wire that was cut. Its about 6 inches in length and emerging from behind somewhere.

It's not a part of the bunched and taped wires that were also there (multi color and important looking).

I cut off a bit of insulation and rejoined the red wire. The radio and charger/lighter point started working.

I'm not sure what that wire does. I'll post a picture tomorrow morning.

Anyway the problem is solved. It's quite tough to reach into the fuse area. Especially since I'm quite well fed. So I sat on the passenger seat and did some circus to reach the depth.