Team-BHP - 1st Gen Honda City Owners - Problems Areas, Fuel Efficiency and more

Hi People

I took my Car to Anto's (Bhawani Auto Works, Powai), Almost all the major (mechanical jobs) have been done and minor issues like power windows are left.

I will update all the billling breakup, for all the Powai people and nearby - I will recommend Anto as a genuine guy with good knowledge and did not do anything extra and only did things once after making sure what exactly is needed. I dont know what are the rates in Mumbai but as I compare the rates with Delhi, I found the labor charges on the higher side slightly.

Need suggestion on tires - I have Michelin XM1+ (not at all happy with the grip), I am thinking of going either for Yokohama or Bridgestone.

Please suggest!!

PS: Thanks KSM-VTec and Pranav for the help. Looking forward to meeting you some time for I am in Mumbai now.:thumbs up

So I have begun facing quite a strange issue with my OHC.
The steering wheel feels "jerky".
I mean have you observed the difference between a smooth moving seconds hand of a watch vs jerky moving seconds hand?

That's how I feel when I hold the steering wheel loosely while driving in straight line.
Surprisingly I don't feel the ratchety movement when I make conscious steering movement like when turning right or left.

Quote:

Originally Posted by alpha1 (Post 3433055)

In my limited knowledge, it sounds like steering rack problem or front Axel problem. Let us know what it was and how you fixed it + cost etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max (Post 3433296)

In my limited knowledge, it sounds like steering rack problem or front Axel problem. Let us know what it was and how you fixed it + cost etc.

Yes, perhaps it is :(. Will see this with the mechanic 2-3 weeks down the line.

Another addition:
While it is true that when I make efforts to steer, I don't get the notchy feel. But when the wheel turns on its own (like recovering back to straight after the turn) it feels notchy.

Also while driving in straight line, the wheels are actually "articulating" up and down, right and left based on the road terrain - this (right/left micro-movement) gets translated to ratchety feeling while holding the steering straight.

@alpha1: I suspect this to be a typical rack problem.The first generation Honda city is equipped with hydraulic steering unit.In the sense,the steering movement is achieved by oil pressure.Over the period of use the boot of the rack ruputures and the rack-pinion assembly runs unlubricated.
consequently the teeth of the rack gets worn out and no longer fits in a synchronising fashion with the pinion resulting in jerks at the steering wheel.In short it is nothing but vertical displacement of the pinion over the rack.
There are quite some garages in Mumbai who specialise in rack repairs.They should be charging any where between 5k-6k INR.But unfortunately the repairs are good only for 06 to 08 months and thenit is back to square one.Replacing the whole assembly should set you back by 20k INR atleast.Hpe it helps.

Was the OHC 2003 1.3 DX a Vtec? Curious since I purchased the second hand and never paid any attention to it.

Anyway, I need to replace the compressor on my OHC 2003. I am thinking about going in for a second hand compressor from a total loss car that my mechanic is going to help me source from Mayapuri in Delhi. What signs are there I should look out for to ensure it is in a good condition?

Thanks in advance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sibot (Post 3451554)

Nope, 1.3 was not a VTEC. A VTEC will have the VTEC label on the engine head, like this:

Im trying to find the root cause of the idling issue with my Vtec Type 2.
The car invariably idles between 600-1000rpm and tends to go further south during traffic start stop situations which is very frustrating since I have to make sure there is a slight throttle at all times to maintain the desired revs. :Frustrati
The matter worsens further when I turn on the AC. The revs go further down and engine shuts down.
The issue was diagnosed as an IACV issue. It was cleaned up but issue still persists.
Need advise please:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunilb (Post 3456415)

See if you can get a replacement IAC Valve. That should in all probability solve your woes. When i had got my Vtec i too had such issues however a routine service helped.

Too do a stop gap arrangement you can increase the idling by rotating a screw i think on the TB. Just check with your mechanic. Its a 5 minute thing.

Folks,

This thread is like a much needed lifeline for me now. Searched a lot on t-bhp before landing here.

After purchasing an Type 2 Honda City (1.3 L), I guess I will be a regular on this thread!

Brief background: Purchases the car almost a month back with about 79k on the ODO. Bought it directly from the seller to avoid the broker hassle.

Got a thorough check-up done at Apex Honda. This would probably be a one-time visit just to get a full professional scan of the vehicle - will switch to a local mechanic eventually.

As usual, a list of faulty issues were listed by Apex, none of which can be repaired - all parts to be replaced. Slight leakege from oil sump, engine head and faulty power steering pump.

The oil sump and engine head leakege should be a simple fix by putting new seals at a local mechanic. The power steering pump looks ok to me - the SA seemed to be advising this out of over-eagerness to get some quick bucks.

One issue I am not able to understand is a slight suspension noise from the front - it is typically heard when I drive the vehicle on paver block roads (non Mumbai folks might not face this much). On tarmac, I don't face this issue at all. Sometimes when the car hits an expansion joint, I encounter the same noise. It is a small kat-kat noise and persists as long as I am on the paver blocks.

Any suggestion folks? I am guessing it a suspension bush gone kaput.

- N

Could be the tie-rod or ball joints - they usually make noise on paver blocks but are persistent otherwise too.

Another common issue and something that I assume is that it can be the steering rack gone kaput - it's usually a 5-7k job to get this repaired.

Both can be easily detected! Ask your mechanic.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aragorn (Post 3464112)