Team-BHP - Skoda & VW | Are the newer DQ200 DSG gearboxes reliable?

Quote:

Originally Posted by vredesbyrd (Post 5611239)

After 2014-15, DQ200 is pretty much fixed with a few isolated incidents (hey, even marutis have rainy days but you better keep a 100k spare just in case).
Go for it because if you remove reliability factor, it is one of the most efficient and fastest transmissions on the market.
1.5 TDI DSG 2 years and counting (touch wood)

P.S.: Do shift into neutral if stopped for more than 5 seconds and change transmission oil at 5 year/100,000 km mark

IMO DQ200 is dryclutch right? when you say change transmission oil is it mechatronic oil you are referring to?

Quote:

Originally Posted by kpkeerthi (Post 5743382)

What is the logic behind putting the gear in N when stopped in traffic? Does the manual say so? Sounds more like a fallacy. Holding the brake pedal while remaining in D should put the car on neutral. No?

I drive a Kodiaq, which has a DQ381 gearbox. After I got the car, I spent a long time figuring out driving practices that would play nice with the DSG. This Team-BHP thread was incredibly useful. However, the information that I got from this thread, Kodiaq manuals, and from various VW/Skoda groups in general, did not provide a definitive answer on whether pressing the brake pedal while in D mode would rest the clutch by engaging the right lever on the transmission. On my car, I have seen the engine RPM remaining the same in both cases (D with brakes and N), so I believe there is some merit in your position.

Here is the practice that I follow these days, for any car that has DSG:

1. If the car has Start-Stop and Auto Hold, keep these ON. Now, the car's engine will shut down when the car comes to a stop (in most cases). Take the leg off the brake pedal. At this point, the clutches should be disengaged, and the parking brake is engaged (from auto-hold). If I have to stay in stopped state for more than 30 seconds, I put the leg back on brake, specifically shift to N, engage parking brake, and take the leg off the brake. If the car is on an incline, I engage parking brake in N mode as before, and then move to P mode to engage the parking pawl.

2. If the car does not have start-stop and auto-hold (or if the start-stop is not engaging), I just keep the brake pressed while in D mode, when I have to stop. Then, if I estimate that it would take more than 20 seconds to drive off again, I will shift to Neutral, engage parking brake, and take the leg off the brake. If on incline, I will engage P mode as in the previous case.

If I am in crawling traffic, I also switch the car to manual shifting and shift to minimize clutch slippage and hunting. I also minimize the number of stop and drive instances by driving off only once I have a couple of car lengths of free space in front of me (at the cost of getting honked a lot, two-wheelers cutting in front etc.).

I believe these practices provide a decent trade-off between fuel consumption and wear, and also provides some insurance to cover my ignorance. :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by phi (Post 5763644)

1. If the car has Start-Stop and Auto Hold, keep these ON. Now, the car's engine will shut down when the car comes to a stop (in most cases). Take the leg off the brake pedal. At this point, the clutches should be disengaged, and the parking brake is engaged (from auto-hold). If I have to stay in stopped state for more than 30 seconds, I put the leg back on brake, specifically shift to N, engage parking brake, and take the leg off the brake. If the car is on an incline, I engage parking brake in N mode as before, and then move to P mode to engage the parking pawl.

Confused why would you need to do 1. above?

Your Kodiaq's engine is automatically switched off in auto-stop-start mode and the EPB engaged. I feel you can just leave it in that state UNLESS it is a really long wait.

Again, as soon as you put your foot on the brake (to move to N) I am assuming the engine will come back to life again?

Quote:

Originally Posted by phi (Post 5763644)

Quote:

Originally Posted by itwasntme (Post 5763672)

Thanks for the comment. And you are right. I made a mistake and confused auto-hold and start-stop when translating my muscle memory to text. :eek: Here is the corrected text:

If the car has Start-Stop and Auto Hold, keep these ON. Now, the car's engine will shut down when the car comes to a stop (in most cases). If the engine is shut down (due to start-stop), engage the parking brake, and take leg off the brake. If the car is on an incline, move to P before taking the leg off the brake.

Even if the engine does not stop (maybe because of high electrical demand), the clutches should be disengaged, and the parking brake is engaged (from auto-hold). I take the leg off the brake at this point. If I have to stay in stopped state for more than 30 seconds, I put the leg back on brake, specifically shift to N, ensure parking brake is engaged, and take the leg off the brake. If the car is on an incline, I move to P mode to engage the parking pawl.

Now, coming to the behavior of start-stop - one the engine stops, there are four actions that trigger an engine start:

1. Additional electrical demand (AC needing to switch on, say).
2. Even a slight turn of the steering wheel.
3. Even a slight touch on the accelerator pedal.
4. Repeated brake activation. This is a little inconsistent though - if my leg is off the brake and the engine is stopped, the engine does not start every time I press and release the brake again. Mostly it does, but sometimes it does not. The engine starts every time the brake is pressed and released for the second time though.