[DerAlte]

Left rear window winder kaput! Motor is working OK, but I can hear the cable moving around the pulley. Replacement cost (Concorde Stores - Vishwanath): 3800/-!!!

Is there any way to get only the cable replaced and not get the whole Window Regulator Unit (that's what the assembly is called)? There are better uses for the 3800 bucks .

[cool_dube]

Originally Posted by v&v

I was under the impression that 4x2 had LSD.

Not by default, only 4WD Safari comes with LSD as standard fitment - however, I believe you can order a 2WD Safari with LSD provided you can talk your way through the 'Not possible saar' excuses of the dearlers.

Originally Posted by v&v

I had taken my beast to sand dunes , slippery hair pins at rohtang pass last Aug, it was raining like any thing and there were 5 or 6 hairpins where the sumos were skidding and sliding. We could climb easily with out any effort.

That is most probably to do with footware. Most of the taxis run on blad/almost bald tyres and hence the sliding dances.

[Traveler]

Originally Posted by jkdas

Check my post. I am yet to post pix. I tried the silicon option failed as TASS already had put MSeal. I might give it another try if I can break the MSeal.

Originally Posted by sunishsamuel

Can you open bonnet and check the rubber cover/cap that is located on the body under the brake cylinder ? I do not know what is it called, but its kind of a dust cover which lets water IN if not fixed properly. I got this correctly fixed and seepage seems lesser.

Also check the damping rubbers on the front door as well as the ones besides the windshield on the A pillar. Ensure the wiring is properly seated and closed especially on the doors. I am not able to explain much in detail but kind of know the basics of the problem.

Please open the right side fender and check the corner that is above the wheel arch for any cracks/holes. Previous safari had a similar issue.

And if the dashboard needs to be opened, please have TASS do that for you as its their responsibility. I did face leak problems but no more, though condensation water still falls on my legs from the ac pipe !!

Not wanting to have the entire dashboard ripped out to check the leak, I went ahead myself to figure out the water seepage issue in my Safari.

Step1: Started with the Safari parked on level ground and poured at least 20 liters of water over the windshield, over the A Pillar joints, over the Black plastic cladding that is below the wipers. Nothing leaked inside, not a drop .

I was baffled, I have seen water dripping in so many times, but today there was not a drop. Then I realized, most of the times the water used to seep in and drip when my Safari was being washed on the driveway ramp. The ramp is on an angle. So I reversed the Safari and parked it on the ramp. Repeated the 20 liters water exercise and sure enough water started dripping in above the brake and clutch pedals.

Step 2: Now that the seepage was evident, I set out to trace the source. So I removed the entire wipers arms. Then I went ahead and removed the Plastic Cladding. Thus I exposed the area which houses the wiper motor. So I started the water test again, this time carefully directing water at each corner and in the middle. Again to my frustration no water leaked inside.

Step 3: Failing to find the source I directed a little water directly at the Air Con vents, the ones meant for letting in fresh air. Immediately a steady stream of water emerged from above the brake and clutch pedals.

So finally I had figured out the mystery that has troubled me ever since I bought the vehicle. See attached photographs of the vents. The vent on the driver side is the main culprit. That is the source of a majority of water seeping inside.

By the way the Air con was on re-circulation mode all the time and these vents should be blocking all air / water from outside, evidently this is not true and that also explains why I used to still smell fumes and smoke inside the vehicle even if the Air Con vents were set to re-circulate mode.

So my deductions are:
1. The Air Con Vents do not close properly in my Safari.
2. The Air Con vents are quite near to the base of the water channel and if the water flow is heavy and the vehicle is on an incline the water seeps into the Air Con vent and onto the Driver Side foot well.

Okay now here is what I did to fix it.

Bought a rubber sheet from the market and cut out two pieces of 6x4 inches. Bought a rubber sealant from the market and fixed the rubber pieces on the two vents. Once it was a little dry I used Fevibond to seal off the edges as well.

Then came the wiper motor, the plastic cladding and finally the wiper arms. Took me about 3 hours of work to get this all opened, fixed and re-assembled back. Hopefully I will not have this water seepage issue any longer. Also I think I will no longer have the fumes and smell coming inside the cabin in-spite of the Air Con vents being on Re-circulation. If I need fresh air I can always open the windows.

Manik

[4x4addict]

@mk

Have you sealed the vents completely? or only the bottom half?

It seem like a design flaw. So if you park he Safari in a slope and pour water over it, the water that flows down the glass will not drain out, but collect inside and make its' way through the AC vent.

[harryms]

its really a good job you have done. to my personnel experience 90% of Tata safari's recirculation went wont shut off completely. As you said its better to open the window to get fresh air, but be careful while you drive above 80KMph do not attempt to open the window, if you open the window the glass will fly away.

[Lukeskywalker]

but be careful while you drive above 80KMph do not attempt to open the window, if you open the window the glass will fly away.

Err, what Glass will fly away?

[Traveler]

Originally Posted by 4x4addict

@mk

Have you sealed the vents completely? or only the bottom half?

It seem like a design flaw. So if you park he Safari in a slope and pour water over it, the water that flows down the glass will not drain out, but collect inside and make its' way through the AC vent.

I have sealed the vents completely. It will take care of both the water and the outside air getting in. I guess the A/C would be a bit more effective as well.

[mercedised]

Originally Posted by manikahuja

I have sealed the vents completely. It will take care of both the water and the outside air getting in. I guess the A/C would be a bit more effective as well.

But, what in the case if you need fresh air from outside? or you always drive with recirculation ON.

[jaysmokesleaves]

I guess now it doesnt matter whether the recirculation switch is on or off. For fresh air.. you roll the windows down.
Nice practical solution there manikahuja.

[Rahulk76]

Originally Posted by amitk26

Rahul I saw this on your thread as well , well sorry I have no input from my side but just a request.
Can you please post a picture marking where exactly is oil separator and where do you see oil on air intake pipe for benefit of others.

Originally Posted by dadu

Check you thread, replied there, Oil separator might need replacement.

Here goes the pics.

Apologies for shoddy image editing in gimp..(i recently formatted windoze to ubuntu )

I guess Oil seperator is culprit, so would show to TASS as is to find a rectification. I also guess, that i will ask them to clean the drat breather of PCV.

[Rahulk76]

Originally Posted by Rahulk76

Here goes the pics.

Apologies for shoddy image editing in gimp..(i recently formatted windoze to ubuntu )

I guess Oil seperator is culprit, so would show to TASS as is to find a rectification. I also guess, that i will ask them to clean the drat breather of PCV.

Originally Posted by dadu

Ask them to open the Air intake pipe(from Filter to the Turbo). If you see excess oil more than you see in morning Dew drops on the grass or oil dripping from the pipe connected to the oil separator, Oil separator needs replacement. Its covered under warranty.

The oil seperator along with the air intake hose ( had a leak) which goes from airfilter to the turbo, needs to be replaced as per TASS. That gash was the source of oil leaking out.

Oil seperator replaced
Air intake hose replacement pending

PS: I saw a note from TML that fuel filter needs replacement now at every 15k instead of 30k.

[dadu]

Originally Posted by Rahulk76

The oil seperator along with the air intake hose ( had a leak) which goes from airfilter to the turbo, needs to be replaced as per TASS. That gash was the source of oil leaking out.

Oil seperator replaced
Air intake hose replacement pending

PS: I saw a note from TML that fuel filter needs replacement now at every 15k instead of 30k.

How did they find/ checked the air intake hose leak. Btw, there is no PCV for the oil in Safari.

[Rahulk76]

Originally Posted by dadu

How did they find/ checked the air intake hose leak. Btw, there is no PCV for the oil in Safari.

there was a needle like gash, which they examined and came to conclusion. Also since the oil was leaking out of the hose.it was easy to trace.

Also , there has been hoards of these hose pipe leaks as they say to have replaced many of them.Apparently the quality aint so good.
Another method to check leak is. Cover one end of the hose n fill water and squeeze the hose. Leaking water is source of the leak

[Traveler]

To all gurus,

Need an urgent help on this. I am at the TASS and my safari has been diagoned with faulty front discs. The brakes judder and slip giving a lot of vibration when braking at high speeds.

I did not have time to search the forum since I am at the TASS and hence asking this question. Are the discs covered under warranty.

The TASS says drums are covered but not the front discs. I looked up the manual and it mentions that only consumables items like brake pads and liners are not covered and rest of itmes are covered.

Has anybody got their discs replaced under warranty.

Manik

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by manikahuja

The TASS says drums are covered but not the front discs.

Rubbish. Rest assured, discs are as much covered under warranty as drums.