Team-BHP - Honda Civic : Maintenance, Service Costs and Must dos

Quote:

Originally Posted by rugsrags (Post 3389252)

Have got the car sent to the service center. Had asked them to send a technician home but they were like you can still drive the car. Asked my driver to drive it slowly to the workshop.
Haven't yet heard from them they are checking the car out and will get back to me with the diagnostic. The only thing as yet is that they have identified that the wheel is getting jammed (Einsteins that they are) lol
Lets just hope it isn't something major.

Let's wait for the Einsteins :D
Can you identify the sound you heard as Squealing/Metal scrapping metal/Humming?

Humming means wheel bearings are in trouble. This will also lead to heating

I am getting a 'grrrr...' noise when the AC is engaged. A.S.S said it was the serpentine belt that is to be replaced but nothing about the compressor.

The noise seems to be coming only when the compressor kicks in. The cooling is perfect as usual but this noise is quite worrisome and irritating. My mechanic says the compressor is gone and needs to be replaced along with the condenser. I was not very sure so went for a second opinion with a professional AC mechanic. They confirmed the same and demonstrated it by disconnecting the compressor power and the noise was gone, so was the cooling (duh!).
I don't know the internals but if a compressor malfunctions won't the cooling get affected too?

One other thing is I see a noticeable drop in power when the AC is on and the fuel efficiency is also getting affected. I don't know if they are related or not.

Replacing the AC and condenser will put me back by almost 30k.

Is this a common problem? Please advise if I should try and get the compressor repaired rather than replace.

Quote:

Originally Posted by laluks (Post 3389267)

Let's wait for the Einsteins :D
Can you identify the sound you heard as Squealing/Metal scrapping metal/Humming?

Humming means wheel bearings are in trouble. This will also lead to heating

Well the noise was coming on a stationery car and it was the noise of metal cooling. No guesses there since the heat was tremendous.
The ASS on the other hand are still clueless and are waiting for their senior technician who was on leave today so the car is still with them. Apparently they've never come across this issue till now. I didn't realise it could be so serious. They're also saying that the calipers are fine they've checked but there's some issue with the brake piston but they'll only comment on it tomorrow now since the wheel is pretty much jammed!! Also no sign of any damage or bump ( I should know since the car was parked and it was working fine before that) so even they've ruled out any accidental damage.

Quote:

Originally Posted by patron (Post 3389529)

Replacing the AC and condenser will put me back by almost 30k.

Is this cost quoted by HASS or by the independant garage. Typically outside HASS you can get any job done at approx half the price of whatever HASS charges.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar (Post 3389646)

Is this cost quoted by HASS or by the independant garage. Typically outside HASS you can get any job done at approx half the price of whatever HASS charges.

This price is not from HASS. It is from an independent AC service center for an Civic OEM compressor.

Quote:

Originally Posted by patron (Post 3389889)

This price is not from HASS. It is from an independent AC service center for an Civic OEM compressor.

Just as Honda OEM brakes/ OEM engine mounts cost a bomb i guess the OEM compressor would be expensive too. People have used non OEM brakes and mounts in their civics and are still going strong. I may get brick bats for this but maybe try and see if you can get a after market "alternative" for same.

Also look up t-bhp directory for reputed garages and get a another opinion regarding same.

Regarding the jammed rear tyre the workshop just got back to me. They say that the piston boot and calipers of the brake will be changed along with rear brake pads and brake oil. Along with this they are also talking of changing the front brake pistons and calipers. The quotation provided is a good 18.5k.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rugsrags (Post 3390191)

I am again repeating my statement from the previous post "Typically outside HASS you can get any job done at approx half the price of whatever HASS charges" If this is being quoted at Hass you could probably done it at less from a trusted independant garage.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar (Post 3390199)

Well after getting the quote i spoke to my garage. They were like the part is not available with them and since its a piston boot it would be better for a genuine part to be sourced from the company itself. My garage just said that the front Boot and calipers don't need to be touched but since the front piston and calipers are only around 3k i'm thinking might as well go ahead with it. The main cost are the rear brake pads which are around 7k.
But even the HASS has said it will take them 4-5 days to source the part!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by rugsrags (Post 3390210)

Do try with reputed private service stations as well. I have personally experienced good service at Bosch for my civic.

I'm sure teambhp directory can provide many such pointers.

My civic's remote key is giving me problems. Sometimes the car refuses to lock/unlock. 7 years hence, could it be the remote battery? Can anyone help me out with the remote cell make etc and steps for disassembly of the key?

Quote:

Originally Posted by coolkurt (Post 3390632)

It is in the users manual. You need to undo a small Philips screw, prise apart the two halves, and then replace the battery. I do not have my Civic with me today. I think the battery details were also posted here somewhere.

My 2006 Civic did not come with an aux-input. The experts added support by connecting a mp3 aux cable which comes from the back of the HU. All I have to do is plug the cable into my device to play music. However, this arrangement is cumbersome as after a few months, the cable gets damaged and the only way out is to change it, by cutting and joining the wires.

Is there a solution wherein we can have a proper aux port fitted somewhere, thereby all we need is to keep.replacing the aux cables, eliminating the need to join wires etc?