Team-BHP - Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group

Quote:

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer (Post 3458557)

Neat job...id like to know what "jugaad" is done in the background..(bypassed clima relay! !??).the panel is easy to remove. .two nuts behind the knobs which can be pulled out easily..the ""EC" button activates compressor when off..

I don't know what led to this switch being installed. The driver that got this done is no longer working for us. I am still confused about some of the buttons on the dashboard as i don't have the manual.

I also found a new switch on the panel below the steering wheel. it doesn't look to me like OEM Mercedes. it has a single horizontal line, followed by a circle and two horizontal lines. couldn't figure out what it does.

Quote:

Originally Posted by abhiram7912 (Post 3458510)

Thanks a lot for the help. Will report back once i get the work done. any advice regarding headlamp bulbs? I travel mostly in rural roads with lot of unlit vehicles, people and animals crossing the roads. I am looking at Osram nightbreakers unlimited but they are a bit hard to find where i am as i want to test them before buying them.

That AC button is a aftermarket job; cannot say anything unless I know what is the wiring behind it. Did you add this button??

I wont be surprized if your KILMA is not working, hence this short cut; and maybe your cabin temp sensor is also not working; else you should be able to maintain temp inside using the temp wheels

Lastly, it can also be the dial; they are known sometimes to have loose contact leading to some blower points not working; Pull the dial out and carefully remove the wood veneer; post that you will see the screws that hold the dial. see if you can change it a spare unit and it solves the problem. Else you will have to explore whether it can be opened and cleant

Lights : go with 100/90; works like a charm; but before that ensure your lens is clean and properly levelled

Since engine is cranking; that means key aint the issue. I am not the best in diesels unfortunately ; but check the fuel flow and related items as I mentioned in my post earlier

Quote:

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer (Post 3458557)

KILMA can be by passed, tons of info on net

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...operation.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeepakMenon (Post 3459186)

No I did not add the button. one of our previous driver may have gotten it done, i was out of country for last 7-8 yrs so don't know what was done to the car in that time and was not able to find any records at home so just trying to fix the car one problem at a time.

I am assuming KILMA is the climate control system ? i will get the system checked and cleaned during the next service.

Hope the above query is solved..Sorry if I am bumping in..my e220s clutch is annoyingly stiff. .doesnt spring back immediately. It takes quite some effort to push it down and it comes back in say in less than a second. .I replaced clutch plate, pp and slave cyl replaced an year back. The clutch pipe is local as I couldn't find oem. Bled the cluch multiple times ..didnt help..could there be a restriction anywhere of any sort? And yes clutch master was also changed a few months ago. ..absolutely no difference :-(

Quote:

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer (Post 3459979)

W124 clutch should be feather light, now you have basically changed everything that needs to be changed. it sounds like the pedal is squishy and it has always to do with, Leak, air in system, cylinders. I don't not think the pipe should have a huge role to play unless it was way off in diameter

Just two question; what brand was the slave and master cylinder?

How is brake feel?

If your slave and master cylinder are working fine, it could be your throw out bearing that is sticking on the spindle. When replacing the clutch components, the interior should always be cleaned of debris and grime and new grease applied to the spindle on which the throw out (clutch release) bearing slides. First eliminate your clutch hydraulics before you inspect the clutch internals as the tranny will have to be removed.

It's not that difficult to diagnose, just go step-by-step. First of all, it's a hard clutch not a spongy or squishy pedal. So that should eliminate any air in the system, assuming that the bleeding was done properly.
Secondly, when bleeding the system the pedal should not be hard and should travel back-and-forth easily. If this is the case then their most probably is no problem in the master or slave cylinder.
The diameter of the line (hydraulic hose) has nothing to do whatsoever with the performance of the system. The only time the hydraulic line causes a problem is if it develops a slow leak or is breaking down internally causing it to expand and take up the pressure.