Team-BHP
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https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)
Quote:
Originally Posted by vikramvicky1984
(Post 3380981)
Left wing mirror isn't a trim. The answer is obviously NO.
Look at the right mirror, That's also not OE design. Chrome wasn't in vogue those days
See the keys , there is a remote as well :deadhorse
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Lol thanks for pointing that out. Why are you letting your car go?
Its a Base model car with no options.
Its a 250 D so it could be a taxi variant as well. And right side mirror is a w123 unit.
Both mirrors can be obtained but at a princely sum of 60 k
Also the car is missing alot of trim and it would be expensive to buy.
1. LOGO
2. Front and Rear Bumper chrome trim
3. The side lights are not original to this car
I have a new problem in my E220.
My car stalls when I rev and the starting is little rough and takes 1-2 mins to crank up.
if i leave the throttle abruptly is stalls. The car doesnt hold the RPM well. I also stalls on traffic lights and also on turns.
I have cleaned the MFA and also the other sensor on the air duct near the throttle body. It has made the problem disappear about 50% but its not perfect please help me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by manikjeet
(Post 3382219)
I have a new problem in my E220.
My car stalls when I rev and the starting is little rough and takes 1-2 mins to crank up.
if i leave the throttle abruptly is stalls. The car doesnt hold the RPM well. I also stalls on traffic lights and also on turns.
I have cleaned the MFA and also the other sensor on the air duct near the throttle body. It has made the problem disappear about 50% but its not perfect please help me.
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Stalling in W124 can be because of either of the issues, try all in order of cost barring throttle adjustment as this is only during cold
1. Faulty / Failing OVP
2. Crumbling Wiring
3. MAF [Air Flow Sensor]
4. LLR [In throttle body, cleaning may help; but change is the only way]
Its only during cold weather but not during cold start even at 82 C it stalls.
LLR or MAF is giving up. If you want to try a cheap fix, see my post earlier in this thread on how to adjust the throttle input manually and make the car idle at around 900 rpm.
Before anything always try the OVP; this thing causes all sort of gremblins
MAF is not that expensive to replace
however LLR is procey; so try the above two first
Quote:
Originally Posted by manikjeet
(Post 3382248)
Its only during cold weather but not during cold start even at 82 C it stalls.
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99% of the time it is due to the reasons 2 or 4 given by deepak menon. Change the wiring harness and the LLR (total cost 50k to 60k i think) and all these issue should be solved
Doing manual adjustments and jugaad is the surest way to go further down the abyss of a very unreliable 124
Check the fuse for ac/climate control. .I m forgetting the socket number. Apparently it is common to the throttle unit as well. Mine developed the same problem suddenly and wouldn't idle whatsoever. The moment i take my foot off, the rpm would go all the way down to zero. That too it happened in a parking lot so it was a great PIA. Turned out later that the the point of contact on the fuse had disintegrated due to corrosion and hence the throttle unit and climate control were not getting power. Swapped it with another one and it idled perfectly. Worth a try!!
Replaced my OVP few months back. I will do it again but how to manual adjust the throttle. I can open the threads page on Virrat13s homepage
Quote:
Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer
(Post 3382277)
Check the fuse for ac/climate control. .I m forgetting the socket number. Apparently it is common to the throttle unit as well. Mine developed the same problem suddenly and wouldn't idle whatsoever. The moment i take my foot off, the rpm would go all the way down to zero. That too it happened in a parking lot so it was a great PIA. Turned out later that the the point of contact on the fuse had disintegrated due to corrosion and hence the throttle unit and climate control were not getting power. Swapped it with another one and it idled perfectly. Worth a try!!
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As far as i know the KILMA relay; is a AC relay and it controls the shutting of compressor; you can short pin 5 & 7 to test however you should never run it like that as it will destroy your compressor; It does these 3 things
1. when the engine is started, the relay keeps the compressor solenoid off until 10 seconds for proper start and idling
2 with low rpm; if the accelerator is kicked down; it stops the compressor
3 if low Ac gas, then the pressure switch directs Klima to turn off the compressor, saving the compressor
Below is the Relay points from internet; its also the same things in the manual
Now no harm in trying a different unit; coz it is also connected to EGR and maybe it takes reading from there; let me know
Manikjeet - any luck with ur ride??
Off topic-wikipedia says Dexron III is the upgraded/improved version of Type A suffix A Atf fluid originally stated for the manual tranny of the e220 under 236.2 number. Well I was about to source original mb fluid for rs2800 a litre :-o so I guess ill go ahead with a good febi branded fluid.
Took out a sample of the gearbox fluid. Its still red but had a lot of carbon like particles in it..after 17 years of work!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 53BHP
(Post 3382273)
99% of the time it is due to the reasons 2 or 4 given by deepak menon. Change the wiring harness and the LLR (total cost 50k to 60k i think) and all these issue should be solved
Doing manual adjustments and jugaad is the surest way to go further down the abyss of a very unreliable 124
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FYI, LLR is about 35K brand new, and a new wiring harness is around 45K.
Beg to differ, the kind of adjustment I have suggested is an excellent fix for someone who doesn't want their car shutting off every time they're coming to a halt, which I think presents a safety issue. Admittedly, having the car idle at 900 or 950 is a little annoying, but it's still better than the alternative.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viraat13
(Post 3383313)
FYI, LLR is about 35K brand new, and a new wiring harness is around 45K.
Beg to differ, the kind of adjustment I have suggested is an excellent fix for someone who doesn't want their car shutting off every time they're coming to a halt, which I think presents a safety issue. Admittedly, having the car idle at 900 or 950 is a little annoying, but it's still better than the alternative.
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Well it is a band aid; and nothing apart from FE will go worse off; So go ahead do it till you figure out what needs to be done
As far wiring harness, any harness post 95/96 does not have eco junk and should not mean a engine harness change
Even if it does mean so; a competent electrician will get it done as long as all sensors are provided at a fraction of the cost; and I will choose that way
As far as LLR goes; New or worse case used; however change cheaper parts first; Rule of thumb
What's an LLR? Where is it located?
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