Team-BHP
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https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer
(Post 3474081)
Blank key for w124? Yes i can send you one... I am not sure what you mean by "transponder" ? The one I have is just a regular key. |
May I know what it would cost me? Considering that I would require you are to courier the same to me at Bangalore. Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karadi
(Post 3477235)
May I know what it would cost me? Considering that I would require you are to courier the same to me at Bangalore. Thanks. |
Well it cost 600 per piece at palika plus about a 100 for courier.
Finally had my eureka moment! Spotted the VIN no on my car..thanks to Viraat13 and Ray32825! It was right in front on the left side of firewall ..wonder how I missed it all the while!
Looking for a Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) in Pune for my E220.
What is the original Bosch part number and where can I get one in Pune or Mumbai?
How much should a new one cost?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raja
(Post 3477829)
Looking for a Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) in Pune for my E220.
What is the original Bosch part number and where can I get one in Pune or Mumbai?
How much should a new one cost? |
MB Part : A0005403817
BOSCH: 0258003314
It should be available in Mumbai part dealers, but there maybe a wait
Internet prices are in the range of 6-8k INR BOSCH plus shipping
But why do you think you need it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeepakMenon
(Post 3477853)
But why do you think you need it? |
The car keeps stalling especially when the headlamps are on and the AC is on as well. If only one of the two items are on, then no stalling.
My mechanic told me that there is a load on the engine and the rpm's are not being regularised because of the faulty oxygen sensor in the throttle body.
Any advice or suggestions?
Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raja
(Post 3477874)
The car keeps stalling especially when the headlamps are on and the AC is on as well. If only one of the two items are on, then no stalling.
My mechanic told me that there is a load on the engine and the rpm's are not being regularised because of the faulty oxygen sensor in the throttle body.
Any advice or suggestions?
Thanks |
I would check alternator/line voltage and then check/clean ovp first. Also oxygen sensor is not used when engine is cold...it basically runs on open loop. Do these issues occur when engine is cold as well?
Btw oxygen sensor is on the exhaust and not throttle body. He may be talking about maf which is after the air filter housing on the pipe..And they don't come cheap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer
(Post 3477890)
Do these issues occur when engine is cold as well? |
No, not when cold, only after engine has reached regular temperature.
How does it drive when neither of them is on? Hows the acceleration, economy? Any black smoke or hesitation. .pops misfires?
Does the engine die immediately when both are on..as if u shut off with the key? Or does it struggle sputter and then die? Does it sustain when u floor it meanwhile? If there's a short somewhere in the wiring then the outcome should be immediate.
No problems when neither of them are on.
No smoke or hesitation. Runs smooth.
Problem happens when headlamps and AC are on and the car has warmed up.
Thats why my mechanic said oxygen sensor.
Hmm..it doesn't seem to add up. Oxygen sensor (in the exhaust manifold) measures amount of unburnt fuel (by measuring unburnt oxygen) and reports it to ecu, which along with MAF data and engine rpm etc decides how much fuel to spray. Imo these sensors dont contribute in any way to ac or headlamps functioning. Looks like a wiring issue to me as the car would drive pathetically irrespective of ac or headlamps. .if any of those two sensors are bad. Plz describe if the shut down is abrupt or gradual. Can u keep it alive by flooring it?
Ps- the climate control and throttle body share the same fuse (no 7 if I recollect). One fine day mine refused to idle at all but would sustain on throttle and also the ac wasn't working. Cause : corrosion at fuse terminals! Doesnt hurt to check that once!
Also try getting it scanned. You ll get a direction thru the results. It doesn't seem to be the oxgen sensor for sure..at the moment.
Thanks for the fuse advice.
Shutdown is not what you call abrupt. As I know this problem is there, I can predict shutdown and give throttle between gear changes to keep the rpm's up - learning to heel and toe
sportz_kruzer has covered most of it
What you are experiencing is classic erratic idle, though Lamda sensor does play a role in it however, you do not go ahead and change it at the first go; typical list is like this
1. Check Fuses
2. Check Battery, alternator, charging
3. Check OVP
4. Check for vacuum leaks
5. Check MAF
6. Clean Throttle body [While at it check degradation on engine harness]
7. Check Coolant Temp Sensor
8. Check ignition components
9. Check LAMDA sensor
Replace the item that doe snot check out; hope it is not throttle body
Now the above list is from simplest to hardest from a work and cost point of view; scanning will help; however ultimately you will have to check all.
Check your wiring, specially this cold solder spot in the throttle body
Got my wiper motor replaced yesterday, but the wiper is working only when wash/wipe is used. the wiper doesn't come on when turned on using the combination stalk (with indicator and headlight high/low beam) on the steering wheel.
The service advisor is saying i should replace the whole combination stalk, but since everything else is working, i.e. high/low beam flasher, indicators and wash /wipe, i am thinking there is a fault with the N10 relay (from what i read on the mb forums). any ideas about what i should do ?
can i get a new N10 relay or repair it ? i am thinking it would be a cheaper option than replacing the combination stalk.
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