[nsbhagwat]

Hi Meghnaad, the seat belt buzzer going off when passenger seat is not occupied appears to be a bug. This was reported by a you tuber in Jimny as well when he was reviewing Thar Vs Jimny.

[rich_heart]

Originally Posted by M3GHNAAD

I am new to this forum, so please excuse me if these questions have already been answered somewhere.
Thanks in advance!

Welcome to the forum but bad news is, you have a lot to read, my friend!
Start with reading all Shashi sir's post, keep an excel open to note down replacement product numbers

[M3GHNAAD]

Originally Posted by nsbhagwat

Hi Meghnaad, the seat belt buzzer going off when passenger seat is not occupied appears to be a bug. This was reported by a you tuber in Jimny as well when he was reviewing Thar Vs Jimny.

After your suggestion, I searched for videos on YT, and yes, this issue is there in almost all Nexa cars. I saw this video where the guy showed the same thing for Fronx. His reasoning was Suzuki has not provided weight sensors in all seats, but they have connected the buzzer and the warning light to the seatbelts. So, you have to have all the seatbelts in place if you want to avoid the buzzer.

Originally Posted by rich_heart

Welcome to the forum but bad news is, you have a lot to read, my friend!
Start with reading all Shashi sir's post, keep an excel open to note down replacement product numbers

I did actually go through this entire thread and took a couple of screenshots but you are correct, I should have noted it down in an Excel file.

[lxskllr]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Iridium plug for your Baleno is now available from Denso: Link

Sorry to reply late folks, I did the upgrade to iridium plugs for my Baleno CVT with K12M engine, the cost for 4 plugs was INR 3200.

Denso advertises the following advantages:

1. Improved Ignitability
   
2. Improved Horse Power
   
3. Improved Acceleration
   
4. Improved Fuel Mileage
   

Note: the above graphs are tested on motorcycles

What did I observe in my upgrade you ask(My baleno runs on XP95 petrol 95% of the time)?
1. Smoother revving engine from 2-3.5k RPM

*that's all*

The power, mileage and acceleration remained the same, the only advantage is the longer replacement interval.

Do I think this is worth 3.2K? Absolutely not, I would rather change the regular spark plugs at timely intervals.

Your mileage may vary - since I drive a CVT which mostly runs on XP95!

Stock plug vs. Iridium power:

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by lxskllr

What did I observe in my upgrade you ask(My baleno runs on XP95 petrol 95% of the time)?
1. Smoother revving engine from 2-3.5k RPM

*that's all*

The power, mileage and acceleration remained the same, the only advantage is the longer replacement interval.

Do I think this is worth 3.2K? Absolutely not, I would rather change the regular spark plugs at timely intervals.

Thanks for your review. As I mentioned, the differences if any is very minor. This was my observation:

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

3. The sluggishness observed when Li Ion battery is discharged, specially betweeen 3500-4000 rpm, is very much improved now. I also feel the engine is building up revvs cleanly. Also since I am using a lot less throttle to build up speeds, FE seems to have improved over similar driving cycles(Purely MID data).

4. Idle is much more stable now. This isn't perceivable, but can be observed with an OBD2 adapter.

What you shouldn't expect:

1. Your car won't become a rocket overnight. There will be very minimal gains, so have your expectations right.

Regards,
Shashi

[Leoshashi]

Update: The XL6 completed yet another 5,000 km drive across the plains and deserts. Loved the supreme comfort in which it took it's occupants through all challenges. Reliability is top notch and it continues to clock miles without a hiccup.

Some pics in no particular order-

On Lucknow Agra Expressway:

Did some towing along the way :

Amidst the dunes:

At the Indo-Pak Border, again!

At Panchgaon with friends, making a rememberable evening:

Feasting on the delicacies:

At my native place:

Odo reading currently:

Regards,
Shashi

[shancz]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

A friend tried 5W30 Shell Helix on his K15B S-Cross, and there was noticeable sluggishness and drop in efficiency. Although the engine sounded way refined with the thicker grade.

Apologies for dropping in uninvited but I had also experienced noticeable smoothness and a drop in FE by 1-2kmpl with the K10B when switching from 0W20 to 5W30. The 0W20 was Castrol Magnatec stop-start and the 5W30 is MGO by Castrol. Can vouch for the quality of the Magnatec and even the ASC guy mentioned that it was a good oil and were actually surprised that I got it for 1500(~2 years ago).
Echo the sentiment about rapid deterioration of OEM Ecstar oils and this extends to two-wheelers as well. I have experienced with our Suzuki Access where the Ecstar R5000 10W30 deteriorates by 1000-1200km instead of the 2500-3000 its supposed to last. I have switched to Castrol(5W40) fully-synthetic and quite happy with the results.

Glad to see the XL going places and the F/L rear has grown on me now. Looks fabulous.

[carzone]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Brother's AT XL6 gets engine guard.

Thank you to this detailed post, got the engine guard installed on my XL6 yesterday.
The team at MASS were hesitant at first, on showing the video and photos, they were then enthusiastic to get the work done.

They were surprised to see that most of the holes matched exactly and no one at the workshop had thought of doing this earlier.
They've not drilled holes on the metal part in the front for me, instead have fit it using cable ties as of now. They're worried about the heat from the silencer at the bottom may create a problem going ahead.

I have had problems with rat entering the front bumper as there is ample space for them to roam around and cut wires. I've had a cut outside temperature sensor twice now. I've kept some naphthalene balls now to avoid that, any better solution that you've found out?

[M3GHNAAD]

Replaced the number lights with the Osram LEDs. I was wondering if the cabin lights can also be replaced with LEDs. I don't like the amber colored halogens. User manual also has not specified the type of bulb which is used inside the cabin.

[B-Taurus]

I’ve got the interior lamps replaced with white LED. Though brighter than I would like it, looks much better than the yellow dim lamps provided by the OEM.
Just go to any automobile accessories dealer and he’ll be able to replace it for you.

~B~

[drsarao]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

My XL6 has faced this a couple of times and here is what I'll do:

1. Get it cleaned inside out.
2. Fill tyres to 45 PSI
3. If the engine oil has turned black, better get it changed.
.
.
12. Tyre pressure doesn't drop that drastically unless your Tyre has a puncture. Frequent checkups can be ignored.

Will add to this in case anything comes to my mind.

Regards,
Shashi

My Experience with keeping the car completely idle for 3 months.
(Long term storage of car without losing battery charge or tyre pressure and avoiding rat infestation)


I followed mostly what Leoshashi had suggested in the post above and some internet tips.
I was away for exactly 3 months.
Car was was parked in open parking of an apartment complex which has rat infestation problem.

Process when going away:

1. My 3rd / 10k km service was due just before I left. So car was thoroughly cleaned inside out, greased, filters and oil changed.
2. Brake, coolant and wiper fluids were checked and topped up.
3. Filled air to tyre pressure of 45 PSI for all tyres which is 10 more than the recommended.
4. Filled petrol to half tank mark.
5. Anti rodent measures. Filled 4 old socks EACH with half packet chewing tobacco, 5 naphthalene balls and 4 pieces of camphor. These were tied to 1. battery positive cable in left engine bay, 2. under the brake fluid reservoir on right side, 3. in the glove compartment in cabin (it is nearest to A/C intake) and 4. in the dicky.
   Used 3M anti rodent spray in all wheel wells, around the engine, most of under-body except the silencer tube, along front, rear bumpers, under seats, around brake/accelerator pedals and steering column.
6. Sprayed the already cleaned upholstery with Turtle Wax Luxe Leather conditioner.
7. Wrapped front and rear wiper blades in soft cloth.
8. Put hand brake to off and Transmission in P mode.
9. All window glasses were fully closed.
10. Locked the car doors with fob and then opened only the driver door.
    Opened the bonnet.
    Disconnected the battery negative cable and wrapped it in thick plastic pouch with zip ties.
    Closed the bonnet.
    Closed the driver door.
    Used the mechanical key from the fob to lock the driver door.
    Check that all doors and dicky are locked.
11. Used the car cover from Nexa. In addition to the supplied single under-body belt, I used 6 nylon strings passed across under the body to further strengthen the cover anchorage. I made holes and covered them with holed rivets for the purpose. In a previous car, the cover retained only by single under-body strap blew off by strong winds - hence extra precaution.
12. Told the security guys to take care while I am away (double edged sword!).

Process on return:

1. Removed the car cover.
2. Opened driver door with mechanical key from fob.
   Opened bonnet.
   Connected back the negative battery cable.
   Closed bonnet.
3. Removed cloth wraps from wiper blades.
4. Removed the 4 anti-rodent socks. (Fire hazard in Engine Bay!)
5. Started the car (no problems)
6. Went to petrol pump and checked tyre pressures - found to be 35-36 PSI - the recommended pressure.
7. Got it checked for PUC (Pollution Under Control) as 1 year was over.

Observations:

1. Car cover became very dirty due to outdoor status - washed in the washing machine.
2. Car exterior and interior were unaffected - no dust/dirt/mud/foul smell/rodent infestation. (the anti-rodent socks now contained only tobacco leaves which also had become odourless)
3. Car started quite easily suggesting adequate residual battery charge after 3 months.
4. Petrol level showed half tank suggesting insignificant evaporation in 3 months.
5. Lithium battery level showed 3 bars - again adequate.
6. Radio station settings were surprisingly retained! Either the entertainment console has on board backup battery or radio station storage is in non volatile memory. Good for us.
7. Odometer readings were also maintained, obviously.
8. However, lost all the fuel consumption data and trip records.
9. As per internet, we also lose engine optimization data built up over the running period which may lead to poor fuel efficiency and non optimal idling/acceleration/auto gear-shift etc. However, I did not feel any change in engine sound, response, AT behaviour or handling. Will update on FE later.
10. Tyres lose about 10 PSI in 3 months. (I have new tyres run about 9K with no rim damage)
11. Found no evidence of rats like feet marks over engine or rat shit in engine bay or cabin. There are lawns/plants around the parking space definitely harbouring rats. So antirodent measures did work.
    I will henceforth use 3M anti rodent spray routinely every month.
12. Did not notice anything else related to long term storage.
13. I presume, we can maintain a car like this for about 6-9 months.

Other options:

1. Keep the car with a friend/relative or ask them to go to your place to drive/check once a fortnight.
2. If you have personal garage then you can jackup the car so tyres are not touching the ground and connect a trickle charger to battery for continuous charging.
3. If going away for longer than a year and have nobody to look after the car then it is better to just sell the car and buy another later.
4. Take the car with you! Doable if relocating in same country.

Longish post.

Hope it helps someone.

[pardeep31live]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

[b]
I had planned to ensure the opening faces downwards, but the Hellas were a tight fit. Hence opening is facing sideward. But since the location is well sealed from all directions, possibility of water ingress is low.

Thanks Shashi for such detailed posts. You’re perhaps the authority on everything XL6.

Following your footsteps, I upgraded the fog lamps and the horns. It was a breeze!
However, I have a quick question - there was an extra part screwed onto the front grill in front of the horn(image attached).
To be precise it was right in front of the right horn and seemed to be there for directing the horn sound towards the front.
I unscrewed and removed it to make way for the hella horn, but just wanted to check with you if you’re aware what exactly it is? I have a feeling that’s nothing to be worried unless it has something to do with the structural safety or ABS sensors.

[drsarao]

How to park Automatic variants in Neutral gear:
When putting the car in a crowded parking, we are asked by the attendant to park in Neutral gear so that they can roll the car as required.
Even in the apartment complex, this maybe required if you are double parked or parked in front of another car.

Problem:
In AT variants: the engine can be switched off ONLY when in P(arking) mode (when in N mode, the engine can't be switched off).
And once switched off, the gear shift is "Locked" in P mode - you can not put the gear shift in N(eutral) mode.

Solution:
Press the "Shift Lock" button (1) and and Knob button (2) to unlock the gear shift and move it to N mode.

Afterwards:
Remember! Before starting the engine again, you need to shift it back to P mode! Car won't start otherwise.

Screenshot from User Manual:
(They have described a different use case but it works for us!)


Hope it helps someone.

[DDISclatters]

Originally Posted by drsarao

How to park Automatic variants in Neutral gear:

Hope it helps someone.

Godsent! Thank you sir for sharing this. I have owned my XL6 automatic for 10K Kms and had given up on leaving car in neutral!

While a basic functionality, this being my first automatic car, I believed it was just how these auto transmissions work. Much helpful!

[aerohit]

Originally Posted by drsarao

Problem:
In AT variants: the engine can be switched off ONLY when in P(arking) mode (when in N mode, the engine can't be switched off)

6AT can be switched off in N, done that many times (facelift model)