[deepak_misra]

Originally Posted by nilanjanray

Nice travelogue, thanks for sharing!


That elephant - I have quite a few pictures of him, at the same place (not naming for obvious reasons) and elsewhere. Identifiable by his tusks.

I saw your photograph from another travelogue and it looks like him. I identified him by the hole in the left year which seems to be a bullet wound. I have been told that there are very few elephants in that area without scars from bullets

Originally Posted by motomaverick

Nice travelog, enjoyed reading it. .

Thanks. The rest is still to be uploaded. Delayed due to internet issues ay home.

Originally Posted by gopikb

Deepak, thanks for posting the excellent travelogue. I am planning a trip to masinagudi on the 5th and 6th may 2012. Looking for stay options when I saw your post on Wild haven. I tried to register for room through their online facility, but there was no response. Do you have any telephone numbers which we can call to book? Also it would be helpful if you can list down the total amount that you had to pay.

I would be very surprised if any online booking in Wildhaven worked. The telephone number is 04232526490. Rooms rent are between 2K - 3K per room depending on size. Food could be expensive as with all resorts in that area. It actually depends on how many people are there. If very few people it is based a la carte which is ok but when full, they have only buffets which are expensive. PM me for more details.


Deepak

[gopikb]

Originally Posted by deepak_misra

I would be very surprised if any online booking in Wildhaven worked. The telephone number is 04232526490. Rooms rent are between 2K - 3K per room depending on size. Food could be expensive as with all resorts in that area. It actually depends on how many people are there. If very few people it is based a la carte which is ok but when full, they have only buffets which are expensive. PM me for more details.


Deepak

Deepak, Thank you so much. The telephone booking worked. They did not even ask for advance amount. He said telephone confirmation is ok. That was surprising when all the other resorts were asking me to transfer 50% amount upfront to bank accounts to secure reservation.

[indianrunner]

Thanks Deepak for sharing... the Brazilian soccer team elephants are getting rather cranky. It used to be a treat and very satisfying watching them a few years ago at the 'place we will not name'.

Cheers

[deepak_misra]

By the time we have a heavy breakfast, clear the bill and bid farewell to the staff it is 11:00 and we set course towards Bandipur where we are spending the day at JLR. We take a short detour to the Chemmatham temple. This temple will be very well known to readers of Kenneth Anderson and appears in the story “The Queer Side of things”. Chemmatham seemed to be part of the scrub forest many years back abounding with wild life. It now looks like a cross between Koramangala and Indira Nagar with gated communities and even swimming pools. The gates hinder movement of animals and I am sure none visit any more. There is a strange Nehru ecological center on the way with just a gate and no walls which leads to speculation as to whether they ran out of funds or the funds ran to Switzerland. There used to be hero stones along the way which seem to be missing. There is just one which seems to be new. Hero stones tell the story of battles long ago and honour fallen warriors. The temple is at the end of the road and looks more dilapidated and on the verge of falling down. There is an ugly awning and sliding shutter gate maybe as a deterrent against bears. The temple looks eerie even in the hot sun. The ancient and deep well was filled up many years ago and bears sad testimony to the civilization that used to flourish once upon a time. Some more on Chemmatham on my obsolete site






Posh house in Chemmantham





Nehru Ecological Center - Only Gate





Hero Stone











The temple - different views





The ancient well. It is now filled up.




Tree

[Ketan]

Wonderful trip report, Deepak.

I like this place a lot, its my favorite too, but I havent had many opportunities to go these place, except a couple of Enfield rides and couple of family outings. I have stayed with Wild Haven once, it was long back, I also wrote a trip long on that one.

One of the highlights was the food at wild haven, not too much of spices and it was so good! I known Roshn (owners son) for a while over internet groups and thats how I went to that place, but it was a wonderful experience.

Now, they have a few more structures built and should obviously better than it used to be. I can recollect that water hole area, there used to be a salt lick there where you can just wait for animals to come either for salt likc or wather. John is a great host, no doubt about it!
Also learnt about a story and I guess they still have that picture in the office where an elephant climbed to the roof area for Tamarind.

It was a good experience reading your trip log, relived old memories. Need to plan one trip to that area soon.
thanks for sharing.

Edit: Do you know if the village and a temple where with lamps is also in the same area I guess. Talking about the cursed village in KA's story where most of them died because of some disease! I love going to such places to explore, would love to join you sometime if time permits.

[himavanth_m]

Nice travelogue and pics. I loved it.
I am planning a trip for 4 days towards April End. The place is not decided yet. So I would like to know how the weather would be in Masinagudi around that time. Do you recommend me going to this place towards the end of April?

[deepak_misra]

Originally Posted by Ketan

Wonderful trip report, Deepak.


Also learnt about a story and I guess they still have that picture in the office where an elephant climbed to the roof area for Tamarind.


Edit: Do you know if the village and a temple where with lamps is also in the same area I guess. Talking about the cursed village in KA's story where most of them died because of some disease! I love going to such places to explore, would love to join you sometime if time permits.

Yes everyone who visits Wild Haven knew about the story of the elephant who climbed the roof. If you did not believe it, there was photpgraphic evidence. I dont recall seeing the photos any more now that you mention it.

Read my last post on the temple Sorry I missed the link- it is Chemmanatham « Deepak Misra and has whatever information I could pick up on the temple.

Originally Posted by himavanth_m

Nice travelogue and pics. I loved it.
I am planning a trip for 4 days towards April End. The place is not decided yet. So I would like to know how the weather would be in Masinagudi around that time. Do you recommend me going to this place towards the end of April?

I feel a bit of a fraud masquerading as an expert on Masinagudi. My first visit was in April or May many years back when there was a thunderstorm (read my first post). Right now it is way too dry. A couple of rains and it would be beautiful, but I dont know in what month the showers start. Other regulars to Masinagudi would be able to better comment.

[kala]

Nice TL Deepak, brought back memories of a very old visit to Wild Haven - haven't gone there in ages.

Originally Posted by deepak_misra

Yes everyone who visits Wild Haven knew about the story of the elephant who climbed the roof. If you did not believe it, there was photpgraphic evidence. I dont recall seeing the photos any more now that you mention it.

Yes, even I recall hearing that story from John during that trip which was about 10-15 years ago, but don't recall seeing photographic evidence. I guess we were all enjoying his hospitality and anecdotes so much that no one really wanted to ask for any evidence (even though we did have a few doubting toms among us)

[nilanjanray]

Originally Posted by indianrunner

Thanks Deepak for sharing... the Brazilian soccer team elephants are getting rather cranky. It used to be a treat and very satisfying watching them a few years ago at the 'place we will not name'.

Cheers

. I have had my car pushed and kicked by one tusker (that is no longer alive) at that place that we shall not name.

Originally Posted by himavanth_m

Nice travelogue and pics. I loved it.
I am planning a trip for 4 days towards April End. The place is not decided yet. So I would like to know how the weather would be in Masinagudi around that time. Do you recommend me going to this place towards the end of April?

April end would be very hot during daytime unless you are lucky to get thundershowers. Sometimes there are powercuts too.

Originally Posted by deepak_misra

Yes everyone who visits Wild Haven knew about the story of the elephant who climbed the roof. If you did not believe it, there was photpgraphic evidence. I dont recall seeing the photos any more now that you mention it.

I have seen the video and photos. Is there in the reception computer. Nowadays I see a mixed crowd. Sometimes people come who believe in playing loud music even in the night - disgusting. Keeps the animals away and totally spoils the atmosphere.

[deepak_misra]

We leave Chemmanatham under the blazing sun with brief halts to photograph some nice trees. The next scheduled halt is the Jungle Lodges at Bandipur where we plan to stay for the day. Reaching the place at 1:00 we find the place full and they have ignored our detailed instructions on cottage reservation which causes some mild irritation which soon passes.
The cottages are much bigger here than in other properties. Our room has a leopard motif with a big painting of a leopard. The diagnosis after a family meeting is that the leopard has disproportionate hind legs but nothing that a few squats a day would not cure.





Leopard fresco.



Having lunch so soon after breakfast taxes the system that only a siesta can cure. A short nap later we are on the jeep for the safari.

The JLR naturalists are well educated in wildlife and have a good knowledge of wildlife movement. It is a prestige issue with them to show a cat which is both a good and bad thing. The good thing is that people like me who have never seen a cat get a chance to see one. The bad thing is that in the search for the cat we completely miss out on the rest of the jungle. The two things that strike us immediately is the complete dryness of the jungle and the other is the proliferation of lanatana, the scourge of the Indian jungle. Lantana is all over the place and obstructs the view completely. The jeep throws up clouds of dust. During the times when we are behind another jeep or bus the dust envelops us.









Obscured by Dust (with apologies to Pink Floyd)




We keep driving and do spot the occasional deer and a sad looking elephant which we realize belongs to the forest department and is chained.













Jungle Scences




Dried Watering Hole with mongoose inside



The driver of the jeep soon gets a flash on his cell phone about a tiger spotting and we charge to that area. We see 5 buses and jeeps of different sizes shapes and occupants of different sizes waiting not that patiently. There seem to be lightning emanating from inside one bus which puzzles me due to the lack of thunder but I realize that it is flashes from cameras. The cameras look like AK 47s and the only thing missing is the tiger. However in the silence we can hear continuous alarm calls from deer and rustling and seem certain that there is something in the bush. Every time i move and inch or swat at flies, the jeep creaks and I get furious looks from the occupants. Our patience is not rewarded and we soon head back to the resort and ignore the other AK47 wielding people who had a glimpse of Gowri, the resident tiger and have aglow on their faces. The curiousity gets the better of me and I see some photos of Gowri on the camera LCD. Dinner a bit later and we retire for the night.







Day 3

The earlier plan was to head out for a trek in the morning but I have a feeling that today could be the lucky day to spot the king. Call it an inner feeling. So at 6:00 we head out once again into the forest. As soon as we enter the forest gate, we see tigers paw marks. The naturalist tries to follow the marks but soon gives up. After that we keep going round and round staring at the lantana and scorched vegetation and spot pug marks and also bear paw marks. The magic of nature is evident when in pockets of scorched earth we see lush green trees beginning to sprout. There is a repeat of yesterday’s play when we hear alarm calls and do deduce that the king is nearby. The driver tries to guess the movement of the tiger but he eludes us and we move along.

The sighting.

Readers expect to see photos of memorable sightings and my photographic skills cant do justice to the numerous and superior photos that are posted on this site. I will try and describe the experience in words.
As we cross a dry stretch, the people behind the jeep suddenly hit the cabin, We look around and spot something peering at us from behind the bush. The fact registers a nano second later that it is a leopard. He is staring at a curious way and seems to be assessing the risk and we can just see his head before he dives back into the bush. We keep staring at the bush and see a second leopard who allows us another nano second sighting. While we are still digesting this, a movement ahead attracts our attention and we see the first leopard bounding across the road in front of us. The 3 nano seconds are imprinted on the retina and seem to be etched on the brain. After many years of visiting this forest, we have finally spotted a cat. The experience is exhilarating and we keep grinning at each other. It is lucky that I was not having the camera handy, else I would be trying to photograph it instead of just enjoying the experience. We soon head back and strut into the breakfast area with slightly puffed out chests. We cannot raise collars since we are wearing T shirts but have learnt a little bit about strutting from the peacocks from yesterday. The envious looks we get from the AK 47 camera wielding men makes my day.

After packing a heart breakfast we are on our way back to Bangalore. We decide to visit Goplasway betta courtesy our friends. This is one place we have not visited. The forest guards at the entrance are very strict and take away all food items and ask us to pick them up in return. The steep drive up is enjoyable and we get very panaromic views of the surroundings. After a brief halt at the top we are on our way back. The only noteworthy event is 1 mini van and 1 bus broken down one after the other. The mini bus does not seem to be able to pull and the driver asks his passengers to walk up not sparing old and ladies. The second larger bus is moved by asking all the passengers to push and the road is soon cleared.








View from the hill


We are soon out and heading in a north by north easterly direction towards Bangalore via kanakapura. Traffic is light and we make good kmph. To reduce stress levels, we take the NICE road till Hosur road and then again turn towards Electronics City and take the elevated road to Silk board. The cars, auto and buses reinforce the fact that the holiday is over. The flames of the forest are replaced by hoardings for various products and the wildlife replaced with roadside dogs.


As I sit on the balcony, staring at the lamps and lights of Bangalore and hear the continious honks of cars and imagine that these are alarm calls (which in a way they are). I dont know when the next trip will be and I am tempted to start re-packing and leave tomorrow.


The End

[VindyWheels]

Hi Deepak,

Somehow missed your T-logue earlier.

Wonderful naration, your words sans photos are very effective indeed. Enjoyed every bit of your trip and has definitely inspired me to go to wildhaven.

Thank You for sharing

Cheers

Vindy

[ampere]

The same place now should have transformed to green by now.
If any one goes around to this place, please post snaps in this thread too, so that we
all can see how nicely flora/fauna changes with seasons!

[cool_dube]

Originally Posted by ampere

The same place now should have transformed to green by now...

You bet it has - here is a pic taken earlier this month. This is the magic of monsoon... the gift of life that only water can give!!

PS - Deepak - hope you don't mind Excellent travelogue by the way - thanks for sharing. I am a regular visitor to this area and have done the "no lights at night" bit on the Moyar and Singara roads many a times! Will pay a visit to Wild Haven next time when I am there.

[skandyhere]

Deepak, I'm happy that the July posts have brought your brilliant narrative to the surface again; I would've missed out on your captivating story-telling otherwise.

Cool_dube and others: I understand that the rains have yet to quench Bangalore adequately this year. Being far far away, I am curious about how the monsoon is faring outside of Bangalore, and I'm not fortunate enough this time to be able to check this out myself. How have the rains been - average or below?

[deepak_misra]

Originally Posted by VindyWheels

Hi Deepak,

Wonderful naration, your words sans photos are very effective indeed. Enjoyed every bit of your trip and has definitely inspired me to go to wildhaven.

Thank You for sharing

Cheers

Vindy

Thanks Vindy. Personally I find that writing down memories imprints them stronger in the brain than photos. The memory of both the trips that I have blogged about are crystal clear in my mind while the ones with just photos just does not have the same effect.

Originally Posted by cool_dube

You bet it has - here is a pic taken earlier this month. This is the magic of monsoon... the gift of life that only water can give!!

PS - Deepak - hope you don't mind Excellent travelogue by the way - thanks for sharing. I am a regular visitor to this area and have done the "no lights at night" bit on the Moyar and Singara roads many a times! Will pay a visit to Wild Haven next time when I am there.

Picture is very interesting when you see the contrast between my posts from April and now. I dont know the fate of places like Wild Haven and the effect of the recent supreme court order. I did read about a general strike in Masinagudi. Any reports from people who have been there on the weekend? btw: I understand the forest department is quite strict about no travel on Moyar and Singara roads after 9:00 pm nowdays.

Originally Posted by skandyhere

Deepak, I'm happy that the July posts have brought your brilliant narrative to the surface again; I would've missed out on your captivating story-telling otherwise.

Thanks Skandy