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Kwanza means 'First' in Swahili

This is my first ever travelogue. And for Team-BHP it had to be.
A safari into the breath-taking wilderness of the Masai Mara.
From Africa, with love.



The Inception

November was almost dead; finally.

Having done and dusted with another grueling Chennai college semester, it was time to go back after three long years.

Go back, to the land of sunny days and chilled nights.
Back, to the land that is the cradle of mankind.
Back, to paradise.
Back, to Africa.
Back, Home!

The anticipation of this one month long trip to Kenya, where I grew up, was what literally thrust me past the final week of examinations.

The following Wednesday, late in the evening, a majestic Emirates B787’s landing gear kissed the tarmac at Nairobi’s Mzée Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. I peeped out of the window like a curious child to watch the wing flaps retract and smoke gush out from their edges making it look like a shooting star. I love that sight. Past six hours and 49000kms from his fortress, the Emir had brought me to the land of the Great Rift Valley.

Having cleared customs and picked up the baggage, I walked out to a pleasant summer night at about 19 degrees C. On seeing my parents and stepping on the Kenyan soil that raised me up, the heartbeat skip was obvious!

Fast Forward to Three Weeks

As Xmas approached, the typical African chilled-out mentality was evident everywhere. I had just reached the last week of my internship at Tata Motors East Africa. Office became dry, with more than half the staff on leave. For the few that were there, work was the last thing in mind.

People were happy, cheerful and excited for Christmas. So was I. My family and friends had finally finalized a safari to Masai Mara the next week. It was going to be my second visit, after 10 years.

A road trip into the wilderness was something surely exciting. Add to that the idea of doing a TBHP travelogue; no points for guessing. Psych INTENSIFIED.

The Detail

We had booked a 2 night 3 day safari package.
The package included:

- Food & accommodation at a 5-Star “Keekorok Lodge” (three double-bed cottages)
- A 4X4 Toyota HiAce seating 9 + driver cum guide (Most important for a BHPian :Cheering: )
- Game drives
- Dollops of fun.

Only the park (Masai Mara) entry fees had to be paid extra, at the gates.

The Mara is located in the south west of Kenya, below the national capital Nairobi. It is situated at about 250 kilometers from Nairobi, and takes close to 6 hours to reach by road. You could also opt for the more expensive option by flying into the Mara airstrip from Nairobi’s domestic airport taking less than an hour.

Friday, 21 December 2012

7:20 AM: The phone rings. Our amazing driver-cum-guide, Christopher, was on the other end. He had arrived at the gate of our residence, and rang to let us know. Bang on time.

All ready and excited to the brim, I rushed down to check out the vehicle. It was a Toyota HiAce. By the time I got to know the vehicle and let it pose to my photo-shoot, Chris helped the rest of our folks load the luggage.

Everyone in and belted up (it's a must by the way, even in UVs), Chris downed the pedal gently. With a roar, the Petrol V6 made out of the compound. Thanks to the holiday season, traffic was dim and we got out of city limits and hit the highway in only 20 minutes.

The Machine

Before getting to the safari bit, what's a TBHP travelogue without vehicle romance? That too, a machine that dutifully protects you inside a treacherous grassland.

It was a 4th gen 4X4 Toyota HiAce. A JDM import (here's a review of my Toyota Premio JDM import: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...-ex-japan.html) and has been modified to fit the safari requirements, such as installing a sun roof, radio communication etc. It had a 3.0L V6 petrol motor with a four speed AT.

Though HiAce's are more preferred by most operators, the equally capable Nissan Caravans are also common. They are known Nissan Urvans, and are CKDs assembled locally in Kenya. More posh tour operators use the bad-boy Toyota LC 70 Series, or the LR Defender, and obviously, you pay more for them.

Private sedan cars (the usual Corolla and co.) are risky, incapable of handling such terrain and hence not permitted. However, you could go in your own SUVs (again, Prado, Pajeros are common) but driving on your own means you miss the expertise of the guides. Mostly, the few private drivers follow the expert guide-drivers.


The imposing face. Standing in the background is Chris, who has been in this field for 15 years. Expert he is


A side shot


Not a very wide boot, but can gobble up a three-day luggage for 9




The cockpit. Note the AT gear lever. Also, a cool-box is stationed at the centre


Snorkels are essential especially during rainy seasons to combat huge water pools


Interesting bit: After market modified roof; All safari vehicles have this. It is basically a huge sun-roof that pulls open to view the game.


This is the mechanical roof closing/opening mechanism


Seats 9 passengers plus a driver. Arranged in a 3+2+3 layout, with 2 in front


Front row seat next to door folds to allow entry


Radio communication equipment mandatory. Installed in ALL safari vehicles, and once in the park, drivers are in constant communication with the control room (in the hotel), the park wardens and other fellow drivers and inform each other when they spot animals. Some vehicles usually have GPS too!


Coming up: The Great Rift Valley; Masai Mara

The Great Rift Valley viewpoint

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Rift_Valley,_Kenya

On the way to Masai Mara, we pass through the Great Rift Valley view point, roughly about a forty minute drive from Nairobi. Here, you find some curio shops and of course, a magnificent view of the Rift Valley.
A stop here for some photographs and leg-streching.

As it says


A panorama of the Rift Valley


Inside one of the curio shops at the viewpoint.


Vehicles parked; waiting for the tourists to get back in



The Journey Forward

Amazing roads for the greater half of the journey



Stop to tank up at the little town "Narok" just before Masai Mara


And I spot this; driven down all the way from Europe



Other tourists, heading to the Mara too. Look at the rides; pure fun!





A hawker displays his art


Did I say amazing roads?
Yes! Until you get closer towards the national reserve. 4X4 ONLY :D

Finally, Enter Mara

We reached the "Sekenani Gate" entrance of the park quite in time by 2 pm. It took us almost 2 hours from Narok to get our 'Safari Smart Cards', pay the park entrance fees and have the travel documents verified. This is usually done at the park entrance and takes only a few minutes. However, the delay that day was due to more tourists thanks to the holiday season.

Admittedly, December is not considered the best time to visit the Mara. Ideal time to visit is during the Migration Period (July - October when wildebeest, zebras and gazelles migrate across the border and occupy the Mara reserve, from the Tanzanian Serengeti plains. Usually, at these times, it's easier to see "kills" i.e. a whole hunting and lunch session by the King of the Jungle.

However, irrespective of when you go, you will see almost all the game, most importantly, The Big Five (more on it later).

Since all were Kenyan residents entrance fee was US$ 15 per person.
Except me, no more a Kenyan resident, it cost US$ 70.



At the gate, there was a stop for about 5 minutes as the 'Safari Smart Cards' were validated.

As we wait, Masai tribeswomen spot the chance to sell some handicraft...


... and an LC makes an exit


Post all formalities, we enter the park. Our next mission was to get to the hotel, where lunch was waiting. We were already late.

The drive to the hotel took another 45 minutes from the gate. But since we were in the park, we did get to spot a herd of giraffes and the common/plentiful gazelles and zebras. The safari had begun.

Roughly, the itinerary was:

Day 1

2.30pm - Check in the hotel + lunch
3.00pm - Relax & Refresh
4.00pm - Tea & Refreshments
4.15pm - 6.30pm - Game Drive 1
7.00pm - Dinner & leisure

Day 2

5.30am - Game Drive 2
8.00am - Breakfast + Shower etc
10.00am - 12.00pm - Game Drive 3
1.00pm - Lunch & leisure
4.15pm - 6.30pm - Game Drive 4
7.00pm - Dinner & leisure

Day 3

5.30am - Game Drive 5
8.00am - Breakfast + Shower etc
10.00am - Checkout & drive back to Nairobi

Directions to various hotels and campsites.

The Game Drives

This post covers the game that was spotted over the next one and half days, not necessarily in the order.
Keekorok Lodge, a magnificent hotel that hosted us, deserves it's own post which will follow.

Finally, what you have been waiting for!

The T-HiAce at the hotel porch all set and ready to go!


Zebras in abundance...



...and so are the gazelles.



Tall boys








Right near our hotel, quarters for security, rangers and air-pilots


Ostriches, each posing for one vehicle. Pity we were in a different track...


...but we eventually find a lone one


These lone "umbrella" trees are trademark African savannah! One of my personal favourite shots


Spellbinding sunsets


Buffaloes like to pose


You could hop on to balloon safaris at sunrise. Costs a dime but an experience nevertheless!

A friendly driver sharing directions to spot game


And we find them!! Wasn't too difficult


The King of the Jungle lazing on one side


His consorts lay on the other side



Playful little cubs


This is how vehicles generally crowd around the rarer animals once they spot them. Engines off.


Off-roading!! :D


Not very far into the forest, look what we found:
XUV500 mascot :D


On prowl.



Its not uncommon to have them jump on to the vehicle. Didn't happen this time round. They are usually harmless, siting on the vehicle roof/bonnet for a while, and go away.


The African Elephants!

The Keekorok Lodge - Sun Africa Hotels Group

Now, Masai Mara is dotted with around 30+ accommodation facilities. The lodges which are privately owned won't make you feel like you're stuck in some forest in a hut. They are all designed with a traditional touch, but equipped with all modern facilities. For the more adventurous, tented camps are available too!

The one which we chose to stay at, has a history for itself.

Now owned by a Kenyan entrepreneur of Indian origin (Rahul Sood & family), the lodge is located right in the middle of Masai Mara, which is one of its highest selling points. The word 'Keekorok' means abundance in the local Masai language. It is also the oldest lodge in the Mara, being constructed in 1962, surrounded by an area of permanent springs and lush grassland.

Accommodation comprises of over 80 rooms fully furnished, including chalets, executive and presidential suites, all with private verandas, en suite hot water (it gets really cold during the night and dawn!). Aditionally, the lodge also has a bar, bush breakfast facilities, spa, swimming pool etc.

UNIQUE POINT: Usually, all lodges are electric fenced. Not Keekorok though. It is the only lodge in any national park in Kenya that is unfenced. So, obviously during the night time if you look out of your room, it's not uncommon to see animals gracing. Mostly zebras, giraffes and that kind. We were told that rarely however, lions, leopards, elephants do wander around the lodge.
The lodge boundary remains floodlit over the night though, and we were advised not to venture out during the night. If any emergency, we could contact the armed rangers/security who patrol all night. These security are mostly the brave local Masai tribesmen formally employed by the hotel.

Overall, the staff is very welcoming and friendly. Typically, Kenyans are very good at hospitality!

The entrance


Driving in to the lobby



4X4s at the hotel compound



Unloading the luggage


'Masai' waiting with the welcome juice


Old, still so well maintained




Checking in


The Lobby. Noticed the 'Africanized' architecture throughout


Lounges






The Bar


A souvenir shop by the lobby


Food & Drinks

Food is included in the package, but drinks maybe chargeable. One of the head chefs was from Rajasthan, and had prepared special Indian vegetarian cuisine on our request. It seems the dishes prepared were quite good that most of it was finished by the European tourists before we even got to the dinner table lol: Thankfully, the staff had saved our share!

Some random shots. I'm no foodie

Rooms

Since the whole property is single storied, rooms are modelled as little cottages adjoining each other.


Veranda + Entrance


Bed



Dress



Around the compound

Rooms spread around rush green lawns. Abundance of monkeys







View from the room; notice how the lawns expand into the savannah. Unfenced!


Open dining area...


...leading to more lawns



Way to the spa and pool


Nice to take a relaxing dip after an early game drive



The Hippo Bar

As the title says, a projected platform for viewing hippos in the pool as you sip your drink.

Way to the Hippo Bar...


...leads to this...



...two bush bars en route...


...from where we could spot a few gazelles at a distance...


...landing at the Hippo Bar




A parting night shot


P.S. Will upload the high-def off-roading and game viewing videos soon.

Beautiful place and beautiful travelogue....

Hi Kwanza,

You helped me relive my visit to Ngorongoro and a fleeting visit to the outskirts of Masai Mara. But now because of you I got to know why Masai Mara is enthralling. Great snaps.

The weather in Tanzania is good and people are cool, and the nature probably at its best.

Eagerly waiting for more.. keep it flowing.

lovely travelogue, Masai Mara has it own charm, unbeatable

One of the most amazing TL's Kwanza, can'y wait for you to complete our Safari experience. Rated a well deserved 5 star.

Africa is beautiful indeed! Thank you

Ngorongoro crater was the initial plan, but you know how they charge insanely during holiday season. It didn't work out. Since I was back in Kenya after three years, I wanted to do something fun so kept insisting lol. With Masai Mara, there is always a 99% chance of spotting all the game, and thus it was the choice!

I've not been to TZ, but hearing a lot from my friends and dad, I guess Kenyans and Tanzanians in general are very pleasing people! However, the whether in Kenya, particularly Nairobi, is the best! It stays pleasant, averaging at about 25 deg C. But global warming is happening everywhere!

Absolutely. There is certainly a lot more charm in viewing wildlife in their freedom and natural habitat while doing least possible damage, than visiting zoos!

Thank you!

Uploading the videos, net is a little slow, but they will be up soon!

Hi,

Nice TL and pictures. Appreciate all the details that you have provided. And your resort does look beautiful.

Voting 5*. Waiting for more pics and safari stories :)

What a way to spend a vacation. Fantastic writing and excellent pictures. Makes us readers be a part of and enjoy your travel all without moving an inch :)

Thanks. Rated five stars.