[swsumit]

UTTARAKHAND : AN ODE TO HIMALAYA AND SPIRITUALITY

I have made a list of places that I wish to visit, its an amateur list and keeps on changing. After my visit to Ladakh last year I was thinking of a trip to South India in 2015 and then maybe later someday in the coming years I would visit Uttarakhand. But as the saying goes “Man proposes God disposes” and I guess that is what happened and in the summer of 2015 I found myself on the road towards Uttarakhand.

2. Uttarakhand , the moment this name figures in conversations the primary thought that run through the mind are two : Himalaya and Spiritual Belief. This state has been the focal point for the above two factors right from the ancient times . It has been the gateway to spiritual belief and becoming one with nature right from the times of Sri Adi Shankar Acharya himself . Thousands have come here in search for peace; many have found their true inner calling among the dense forests and virgin rivers that flow through the lower Himalaya. Home to the greatest of all ancient rivers, the Ganges herself; on her banks many a great spiritual soul has contemplated life and its essence. Boasting of some great trekking options the region is a must on the Bucket list of any traveler.

3. So for the first major trip of the year 2015 we were driving towards Uttarakhand; a sojourn into Dev Bhoomi Uttarakhand. So join me as we chart our course on the National Highway 58 as its winds its path through the mountains and valleys past cascading rivers spilling onto the multitude of state highways that reveal delightful scenic beauty at every twist and turn compelling us to think about the spiritual belief that one is drawn into amongst untouched pristine nature that many have journeyed before to find….

[swsumit]

# Day I : Mumbai to Udaipur.

4. A lot has been written about this sector by me previously and hence will not dwell much into it. Summarily stating the route is along National Highway 8 and touches important cities like Vapi , Surat , Barauch , Vadodra , Ahmedabad and Himmatnagar. However the Highway bypasses these cities skirting them thereby saving valuable time. The choke point being the old bridge on the river Narmada connecting Barauch with Ankleshwar. On a bad day one can get stuck here for a couple of hours hence the alternate option of using the Golden Gate Bridge for which one has to enter the town of Ankleshwar definitely needs to be considered.

5. Travelling on the Golden Gate bridge is a worthwhile experience especially for new comers , the construction dating back to the eighteenth century always invokes a sense of curiosity and pride that the bridge still is fully operational and providing yeoman service to all those who travel over it .

6. The other point of interest on this sector is the National Expressway 1 connecting Vadodra with Ahmedabad, of all the transit corridors built I think we can safely club the National Expressway 1, Mumbai-Pune Expressway and Yamuna Expressway in a different league altogether .The various aspects considered during the construction of these roads sets them apart from the rest of the Highways which have been laid across the length and breadth of this country.

7. The journey though did not start pleasantly, I always prefer staring on time or slightly ahead of it especially when I have a schedule to keep. It was nine in the morning and I found myself still in Mumbai with having close to 800 Kms to be covered during the day however with determined driving and minimal breaks in between I was able to pull it back and rolled in to the driveway of RTDC Hotel Kajri, Udaipur while the dashboard clock stated 2130 hours. Living in Mumbai, for any road trips towards North India this is my only economical and logical route albeit a bit long. But over time I have been able to develop a methodology in road trips of pushing hard in the early days covering large distances so that i am in the foothills of the Himalaya while the journey is still fresh. Out in the mountains its back to the concept of disregarding distance as the deciding factor for deciding the destination of the day rather the climatic conditions and the beauty of the region make that deciosion.

8. In Udaipur I have always stayed at RTDC Kajri , the state owned tourist rest house which I find economical as well as comfortable for a night stay. It always happens that while I am entering the city it is invariably late in the night and searching for a hotel at that time is taxing to say the least especially if one has driven an average of 800 Kms in the preceding hours.

9. As regards to the cuisine for the day , well lunch was done immediately after crossing Barauch as there are numerous eat outs which are hygienic, economical and serve great vegetarian fare if one sticks to simple dishes. Ah yes do not forget the Chaas(Butter milk) , that is a must have especially to cool the head of the one who is driving 

ODO for the day stood at: 91591



THE JOURNEY AHEAD









RTDC KAJRI @UDAIPUR

[swsumit]

# Day II : Udaipur to Delhi.

10. This sector has seen a change in the stop over for night as I became more conversant with the route of travelling up North , in my earlier travels I used to travel till Behror(Harayana) but on this occasion I moved right up to Delhi itself which was another 150 kms ahead. The drive is again long and instead of using NH 8 my recommendation is to go in to the heartland of Rajasthan via Chittorgarh , Bhilwara, Nasirabad,Kishangarh , Jaipur from where one would cross over into Harayana and then via towns of Behror , Rewari reaching upto Gurgaon and then its Delhi itself which says Hello . The highways used are NH 76 and then NH 79 and rejoin NH8 at the Kishangarh-Jaipur Expressway.

11. The highways 76 & 79 are super bland but off late I have begun noticing traffic in an otherwise long curving road in the middle of nowhere. The lunch option is again fantastic, I in fact wait to eat at one of the obscure dhabas that are visible on the Bhilwara-Nasirabad stretch. Great simple food cooked on wooden fired chulahs right in front of you as one sits cross legged on coir Chairpouys with a wooden plank place across that serves as the table. The stay for the night at Delhi was at a friend’s pad and it was a welcome change.


ODO for the day stood at : 92294

[swsumit]

# DAY III : Delhi to Haridwar.

12. So on to the third day of the travel we found ourselves in the heart of India and on top of that bang in the middle of the Delhi’s traffic too. Delhi marks the transition point for all those who travel to Northern India from the south or the west of the country. From here onwards the direction of travel was North, “up up North” was the mantra to follow, Delhi to Haridwar is a fairly well defined route and urban chaos at its best. There is nothing remotely interesting or exciting. The route takes one through a kladiescope of humanity and its existence. From the urban chaos of Ghaziabad to the seriousness of Muzzafarnagar to the pride of Roorkee, it’s all about living mass of humanity their hopes and aspirations; their sorrows and joys.

13. The journey time was 08 hours and by 1500 hrs we were in Haridwar. Oh yea tutorial on aggressiveness of Delhi traffic goers (if ever there is such a word) was imparted without fail and the Indomitable had a nasty brush with a school bus driven by a ox head of a man, there was no gain to be made by indulging in a verbal spat in the middle on the road other than to provide some real life drama to the ogling public, so we just decided to cut our losses and move on.

14. So, on a hot summer evening in the temple town of Haridwar we found ourselves soaking in the feeling of a pilgrim town. The stay was at GMVN operated rest house which was decent and in a central location. The uppermost thought in the mind was to see the Ganges , I personally never had seen or touched the Ganges and this was definitely one of the defining moments in my life and that too of all the places it was going to be Haridwar.

15. So accordingly we set out of the hotel and decided to use the local transport for the purpose because Haridwar is also plagued by the same problem seen all over the towns/cities that have become tourist hubs , excessive crowding and infrastructure of the city groaning to sustain it . Hence using the personal car was definitely not an option as I did not know where the Ganga Ghat was, there are many ghats all along the Ganges but everyone goes to the most famous of them all: Har Ki Pauri which translated into Hindi means “The Lord’s Feet “.

16. This ghat on the banks of the Ganges is the most sought after place in the entire town and it is taken for granted that anyone who is walking on the road leading to the ghat is going towards it. All along the road have sprung up hotels, eateries, shops, guides who jostle with each other to entice the traveler. It is an unending cauldron of humanity with everyone trying to fulfill his own desires whether it is spiritual or commercial, it’s a sight to see and to soak in , cannot be described but am sure many of us will be able to relate to this.

17. The road becomes narrower and narrower as we approached the Ghats sitting in a pedal driven rickshaw, I think I must be sitting on one after a decade, it took me some ungainly movements to in fact climb on to it. The rickshaw soon deposited us at the Ghat entrance and we moved ahead among the teeming mass of people to see the Ganges and then to orient ourselves as to what was the pull that bought teeming millions out here.

18. Har Ki Pauri, meaning steps of the Lord himself is a highly religious place both historically as well as mythically. The Ghaat has come up around Brahma Kund, which is considered auspicious since the time of the vedas. There are many other ghaats dotted all across the Ganges but this one holds special importance.

19. My first sight of Maa Ganga and what a feeling it was. I hurriedly walked towards the steps leading to the water and touched the Holiest of all Indian Rivers: Ganges. It was the month of May and the Indian plains were in searing heat waves but the water; ahhh the water was cold and inviting. There was absolutely no trace of summer heat in the water of the Ganges as she flowed. The Ghat has numerous temples which have been built over the years and the Ganga flows through the channels that have been constructed.

20. The main event was the evening aarti known as “Ganga Aarti”, performed by 11 priests . Each evening, at sunset priests perform the Ganga Aarti , where in lamps are set in the water to drift downstream The aarti is witnessed by huge crowds and the religious fervor is something worth experiencing. The priests hold large fire bowls which they rotate in a right handed circular direction, gongs in the temples start ringing and chants flow in the air creating a sublime atmpsphere.There is a rush to have the best possible seating in order to view the aarti. We opted to take the seating opposite to the ghaat where the aarti was happening in order to see the aarti from the frontal point of view. The aarti is performed to worship Maa Ganga to seek her blessings and invoke her presence in this auspicious place.

21. By the time the aarti was completed it was close to eight in the evening and people started slowly leaving the ghat. We hung around for some time more, the place and the feeling is so intoxicating. Almost everyone floats a lighted lamp and some flowers after conducting prayers in to the waters of the Ganga which signify hope and wishes.

22. Well that was how the day ended, as we slowly walked back to the Hotel, immersed in the events of the day and discussing the religious appeal of the town which leaves no one untouched or immune.

Odo for the day : 92352



BELIEF AT HARDIWAR










BELIEF IN MAA GANGA





HAR KI PAURI





MAA GANGA TEMPLE











ADI SHANKARACHARYA MATH TEMPLE






TEMPLE TOWN OF HARDIWAR






BELIEF






OBLIVIOUS TO EVERYTHING ELSE





EVENING GLORY ON THE BANKS OF THE GANGES











GANGA AARTI

[swsumit]

#DAY IV: @Haridwar.

23. Today we were supposed to visit few more temples in and around Haridwar as well as go back to the Ghat in the evening and take part in the evening aarti.It was five thirty in the morning when I got up and hurriedly picked up my gear to go to the ghaats. The town was all hustle and bustle at this hour and by the time I reached the ghaat, there were quite a number of pilgrims and visitors .The pilgrims were all assembled in order to take a holy dip in the Ganges during sunrise.

24. However try as I might somehow I was unable to understand from within what I was looking to click , my thoughts rather went on reflecting on the way how I had landed up here , for till some months back there was no thought in my mind that I needed to visit Haridwar but then that’s how wheel of life turns . The early morning sunrise surrounded by humanity yet finding space amongst all in order to connect with the vibes of earthly elements, the flow of the Ganges, the warmth of the rising sun, the feel of the earth out there, if I close my eyes I can still feel those vibes come up to my inner heart making their presence felt as they did that morning. They made me feel different in a way that I cannot describe but they did … Rousing myself from my thoughts i did try to click a few pics and then wandered the Ghats just observing the atmosphere surrounding me. By around eight I was back to the hotel.

25. The schedule for the day included a visit to Kankhal as well as the RK mission out there followed by a visit to Maa Mansa Devi temple atop the nearby hills and then the evening aarti. So accordingly we set out and decided to hire the services of the tam tam for a visit to nearby temples .These are battery operated scooters which are similar to the auto rickshaws but have less power, more speed, agility and definitely less pollution. It makes more sense to hire them for a pre negotiated amount and fixed places that one wants to visit.

26. We visited many temples in the morning on the way to Kankhal , the entire region has so many temples with each having its own story. Thereafter reaching Kankhal, we visited the Daksheswara Mahadev Mandir. Also we visited the Shree Yantra Mandir and the RK mission out there. The summer heat was at its peak and it was scorching in the afternoon. In the afternoon we visited the Maa Mansa Devi mandir which is reached by taking a sky lift cable car till the top of the hill. The mandir had a very strong positive vibe and one could feel the aura of Devi Maa out there. By the time we were done with the visit it was evening and we decided to have a look at few of the ashrams that are spread out to the north of the city. It was very calm atmosphere away from the hustle and bustle when we visited these places.

27. As dusk was approaching we retraced our steps and reached the ghaat to take part in the aarti which definitely has a very strong pull and after an exhilarating experience our day drew to a close.



SAPT RISHI ASHRAM @ HARDIWAR






PERSPECTIVE











EARLY MORNING SUNRISE @ HAR KI PAURI







THE GANGA MEANDERS AROUND HARDIWAR






SREE YANTRA TEMPLE @KANKHAL







THE GANGES FLOWS ONWARDS TOWARDS THE PLAINS







INSIDE THE SREE YANTRA TEMPLE







BELIEF







SREE DAKHSA MANDIR @KANKHAL












SPIRITUAL BELIEF ALL AROUND

[ampere]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!


Some amazing captures! Haridwar/Rishikesh are one of the most lively places and this is not just from a spiritual point of view.

One should try Puri and Halwa at Harki Pauri and the big lunch at Chotiwala. Apart from the branch river which flows into the temples nearby via the canals, the main branch is even more beautiful. (For example one at Kankhal) One should see it to believe it. Truly Incredible India.

Great Going Sumit!

[Tushar]

Brilliant narration. Your description of the Ganga Aarti already painted a mental picture and the photographs you backed it up with just made the experience reach a different level! I'm not a religious person, but the atmosphere at these places just gives you the sensation of a greater power.

[dsnaveen21]

@Sumit, Super photography, enjoyed all the photos, black and white, colour, mix of both.

[swsumit]

Originally Posted by ampere

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!


Some amazing captures! Haridwar/Rishikesh are one of the most lively places and this is not just from a spiritual point of view.

One should try Puri and Halwa at Harki Pauri and the big lunch at Chotiwala. Apart from the branch river which flows into the temples nearby via the canals, the main branch is even more beautiful. (For example one at Kankhal) One should see it to believe it. Truly Incredible India.

Great Going Sumit!

thank you

Originally Posted by Tushar

Brilliant narration. Your description of the Ganga Aarti already painted a mental picture and the photographs you backed it up with just made the experience reach a different level! I'm not a religious person, but the atmosphere at these places just gives you the sensation of a greater power.

exactly i agree ...

Originally Posted by dsnaveen21

@Sumit, Super photography, enjoyed all the photos, black and white, colour, mix of both.

thank you

[swsumit]

#DAY V: Haridwar-Rudraparayag.

28. Effectively speaking today would be the day when we would be leaving the Gangetic plains (I am not sure if this terminology is correct) and moving into the Shivalik Mountain ranges. These mountain ranges known as the tresses of Lord Shiva are the outermost as well as youngest range of the Himalaya.

29. The route consisted of the National Highway 58 which would first take us to Rishikesh. We were told that Rishikesh offered greater tranquility and serene surroundings as compared to Haridwar. However in my understanding both at Haridwar as well as Rishikesh if one wanted to imbibe the teachings of spirituality and immerse into the lap of nature, one needed to give time period of say 6-7 months to come to terms with the real nature of the place beyond the touristic appeal which so overpowering and omnipresent on the surface.

30. Rishikesh was reached soon and the main path leading to the famed Laxman Jhula was crowded with travelers and guides. I pitied myself that I did not have the opportunity to soak in the beauty of the place in the off tourist season, sometime maybe around the frigid winters. I was told that the original Jhula had since been demolished and now what we were seeing was the modern version of it. I was not particularly impressed by it even though it was my first visual of a hanging bridge of this magnitude, maybe it might be because of the number of people jostling around. Anyhow we quickly moved from Rishikesh towards Shivpuri.

31. The entire stretch from Rishikesh to Shivpuri and beyond that for few km ahead has the Ganges flowing next to the road and on her white sandy banks have sprung up multitude of tents. The stretch is famous for water sports especially white water rafting and is frequented by both the serious enthusiasts as well as the holiday crowd from Delhi. There is a literal ruckus happening on this entire stretch.

32. As one proceeds further, the plains give way to the mountains as range after range starts appearing and the road moves further ahead into the mountains. We finally reached the first of the Prayags: Dev Prayag after covering around 83 Kms.

33. Devprayag; the most holy of all the prayags being the confluence of the Alaknanda originating from the Satopanth glacier with the Baghirathi originating from the Gomukh glacier has its importance equal in significance to the Triveni Sangam at Allahabad. It is a sight to see the green icy waters of the Baghirathi meeting the deep muddy brown waters of the Alaknanda. Devprayag mesmerizes the traveler who comes wandering here..

34. One pays respect at the temple of Lord Rudranath which is out here. By the time we reached the Rudrapnath temple it had already closed(the temple closes by 1230 in afternoon) so we decided to go till the sangam which can be reached by alighting a steep series of steps which lead to a overhanging bridge on the Bhagirathi and after crossing it one is on the opposite banks of the river. The town of Dev prayag is built around the sangam and the temple itself.

35. After the prayag we moved ahead towards the town of Srinagar which is another significant town on this sector. The beauty of this region is that almost every place whether big or small has a historical link and significance. Srinagar is the last city of the plain before the start of the mountains of Garhwal . The town lies on the banks of the Alaknanda.

36. After Srinagar I kept my eyes peeled on the Alakananda as I had heard about the famous Khakra Bend where the Alakhnanada takes a complete U turn. This comes 28 Km after Srinagar and what a sight it is to see the mighty river turning around . If in peak summer if I was mesmerized by this spectacle I can only imagine how the visual would be in monsoons or winter.

37. Rudrprayag the next way point for the day was reached by 1700 hrs and was the second Sangam/Prayag in sequential order. It is the confluence of the Alaknanada and the Mandikini. One can walk down right till the confluence. There is the temple of Chamunda devi and Narad muni at the confluence. A bit higher up is the temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.

38. Here we visited the sangam as well as the temples of Lord Shiva , Chamunda Devi and Narad Muni. What a contrast these prayags were from the hustle and bustle of Haridwar and Rishikesh. The traveler is actually able to appreciate the significance of the natural beauty as well as the historical significance because there is calmness and peace all around allowing one to appreciate the scenario spread out. The roads till this point were very much in good condition and large distances could be covered quickly. It is however to be remembered that they still are mountainous roads and due caution and care needs to be exercised by the driver.

39. It was evening when we had reached Rudraparayg and from here we then decided to visit the legend of Koteswar Mahadev.The route to reach this temple clearly defined and is around three kms from the bridge on the Alakhnanda . The temple is on the opposite banks of the Alaknanda with the route to Badrinath on the across bank. After reaching a small hamlet, one needs to walk down a set of stairs for around one km in order to reach the temple, the cave where the Shiva Linga is instituted further down. I strongly recommend a visit to this temple as it emanates a very positive vibe.
40 Hence ended the day and we stayed at Rudraprayag for the night. The twilight dusk had fallen and monsoon clouds were all around with the promise of rains to come in the near future.





THE MIGHTY ALAKNANDA DISPLAYING







CHAMUNDA DEVI MANDIR @RUDRAPRAYAG







BELIEF







HOLY SANGAM @DEVPRAYAG







MIGHTY BHAGIRATHI THUNDERS ON







IMMENSE ALAKNANDA CRUISES THROUGH







TEMPLE TOWN OF DEVPRAYAG














TERRACE FARMING @ UTTARAKHAND








HOLY SANGAM @ RUDRAPRAYAG







NARAD MUNI TEMPLE @ RUDRAPRAYAG







@RUDRAPRAYAG SANGAM







MYSTIC CONNECTIONS








BELIEF IN LORD SHIVA








LEGEND OF KOTESWAR MAHADEV







ALAKNANDA COMES THROUGH







THROUGH THE MIGHTY RANGES








ANCIENT PLACES







RISHIKESH







@RISHIKESH








LAXMAN JHULA @RISHIKESH

















THE INDOMITABLE : MY COMPANION

[swsumit]

#DAY VI: Rudraparayag-Chopta

41. The day started with some splendid views of the lavender laden trees that were growing along the main streetand I savoured my time capturing their beauty.I can even now feel that feeling so subtly within as I think back on those moments , early in morning a small town waking up to another day in the foothills of great mountains. The destination for the day was Ukimath and thereafter Chopta. I was supposed to meet my guide Mr Umed Singh Rana at Ukimath who was going to be with us for next couple of days .

42. The drive to Ukimath was along the Kedarnath route but bifurcated at the diversion to Guptakashi. One needed to take the right turn towards Ukimath. This route took us via Augustamuni where one could visit the ashram of Sage Augustamuni and there after one crossed Bhiri ,Kund and finally Ukimath . All the places are small towns nestled in the foothills of mountain ranges but slowly waking up to commercialization and urbanization.

43. The scenic beauty was evident all along the route and I am sure during the winters or spring this must be a scenic drive. Ukimath situated uphill was reached by 1045 and is accessed by narrow roads , we met our guide at the Ukimath market and thereafter proceeded to visit the Omkareswar temple at Ukimath.

44. Omkareshwar temple at Ukimath houses the deities of Kedarnath as well as Madhmaheswar during the winter months. There are five shiva lingas established here which represent the five paanch Kedar. The temple construction and decoration of the Parvati temple is very soothing The temples of goddess parvati are also out here.This temple is a must visit.

45. Post the visit we proceeded towards Chopta via Baniyakund and Duggalbitha. The roads grew narrower as we progressed further into the mountains steadily gaining height .This was the region comprising of deodars ,pines and birches with range after range of heavily of heavily forested lands.

46. I was told that the scenic beauty of these places in the winter was worth seeing but even now was not disappointed by the vistas spread in front of me , the rain gods were in the sky and black clouds were dancing in symphony over green tall mysterious forests.

47. Chopta was windy and cold as we reached in the afternoon and our stay was decided at one of the many dhabas that dotted the place. The temperature dropped steadily as the afternoon bore on as we decided to go on a small walk of a few kms to get a feel of this amazing region. So off we went for a short hike of few kms in the late afternoon.

48. As the stay was decided at Chopta , our guide negotiated with one of the dhaba owner and we checked into a one room shack , as the evening wore on we kept sitting in the dhaba itself while dinner was being cooked on the wooden chulha. The total number of people for the night were we two , our guide and three staff at the dhaba itself . There is no power so it was solar lamps to the rescue and Garhwali songs on the NOKINA 3300 for entertainment. I feel fortunate that I have experienced this way of life also, maybe not for extended periods but yes definitely frequently.





THE WALK NEAR CHOPTA







SOMETIMES WE JUST NEED TO DIGRESS












LOVELY CHOPTA







OMKARESHWAR TEMPLE @UKIMATH






TEMPLE ARCHITECTURE







BELIEF












LAVENDER ( I THINK )







BEAUTY







PRISTINE AND IDYLLIC







THE ROADS LEAD AHEAD












BEAUTIFUL







INTO THE WOODS







THE TRAIL












DELICATE AND INTRICATE







WHAT LIES BEYOND







THE PINES AND BIRCHES

[sach.sri]

Nice thread. The narration and pictures bring the journey to life. Looking forward to the whole trip report.

Would be great if you can also post logistics information as well so that other travellers following you can benefit from it.

Had a question about the guide - why did you need a guide? and how much did he charge?

Looking forward to the continuation of this thread.

[deepv]

Swsumit .. Great pics and some crisp write up!!

I have been to Haridwar/Rishikesh multiple times, seeing your pics from Har Ki Pauri and around was nostalgic to me.
Have also had a couple of trips towards Ukhimath & Joshimath including places like Chopta, Auli, Khirsu, Pauri.
There are so many destinations to explore in Uttarakhand.

I am completely enjoying your travelogue, keep more coming.

[swsumit]

Originally Posted by sach.sri

Nice thread. The narration and pictures bring the journey to life. Looking forward to the whole trip report.

Would be great if you can also post logistics information as well so that other travellers following you can benefit from it.

Had a question about the guide - why did you need a guide? and how much did he charge?

Looking forward to the continuation of this thread.

thx for the warm words , the logistical info would be provided at the end
the guide was taken as i was also thinking of deoriyaa taal and subsequently kedar taal , hence the booking . the cost was nominal as i would be explaining at the end

regards

Originally Posted by deepv

Swsumit .. Great pics and some crisp write up!!

I have been to Haridwar/Rishikesh multiple times, seeing your pics from Har Ki Pauri and around was nostalgic to me.
Have also had a couple of trips towards Ukhimath & Joshimath including places like Chopta, Auli, Khirsu, Pauri.
There are so many destinations to explore in Uttarakhand.

I am completely enjoying your travelogue, keep more coming.

hii ,
thank you for the warm words .. glad u are enjoying

regards

[deepv]

Originally Posted by swsumit

... the guide was taken as i was also thinking of deoriyaa taal ...

So did you do deoriya taal trek??
I was missed this my list of main attraction we did, was trying to recall the name earlier.