[subbarp]

We were walking in the dark. The end was nowhere in sight. No sign of the kids and not sure where exactly we were. It was day-1 of our trek, we were on the mountain trail hiking for over 8 hours and at an altitude of over 9000 feet, having hiked up from 6500 feet, somewhere near the Himalayas. Temperatures were dipping to single digits.

Luckily we had head torches and we could watch our step.

We had almost given up. We were blaming the world, the planners and ourselves for putting ourselves through this trouble after paying a ton of money. This was an illusion. There was light at the end of the tunnel.
After all, the end goal was to see Mt. Khangchendzonga and we weren’t disappointed.

At the end of day -1, these were the thoughts of me and my wife, the last of the soldiers marching into the pitched tents at Bakhim, West Sikkim, en-route to Dzongri to watch the mighty Khangchendzonga (yes, that’s how its spelt in the official sign boards in Sikkim).



A few months back, we saw this nice note on a trekking trip through Rhododendron forests, in Sikkim, and we were excited. As we read blog after blog, we were not so enthused, it appeared to be a tough trek. With the go, no-go battle ongoing, we went through our special shopping checklists:

Lightweight quick drying trousers, multiple pairs of gloves, woolen socks, head torches, light-weight height adjustable walking sticks, rain coat ponchos, special shoes for hiking (and they seem to have a separate one now-a-days to walk, skip, jump, jog, run and separate ones if its sand, road, snow, rock, grass – not completely accurate but that’s how I feel anyways). Shopping lists done, we went through the weekly regimen of training.
Pushups, squats, jog, et-al. What were we upto? No decisions made on go, no-go. We land up on the day before the departure and then the day of the departure. We depart-

And what we did over the next 8 days was mesmerizing. Just back half a week back and feel not too thrilled at the prospect of long work days and the big city!! Photographs!! Of-course, am sorting those. Great learning in that space as well.

I am still gathering my thoughts!!


Flashback a couple of months back. We as a family of 4 are preparing for the trek. Kids are super-enthusiastic. They are checking up Sikkim on the map. I am worried whether they are too young. Weekly training rituals include a 6:30 AM conducted drill by Madhuji (organizer) - Jog, squats, push-ups, a variety of stretches and then information on the trip. About the food, the water, the sleeping bags, past experiences.

We are told each one of us is permitted a 40kg rucksack and a backpack. The rucksack would be carried separately and we would not see it during the day. The backpack is to contain essentials like water, woollens for the day, sunglasses, necessary medicines and the like. What about the ton of camera equipment ! I later realized, I should carry only the bare essentials if I were to lug the equipment myself. So in goes the camera body, the 10-24mm, the 55-300mm, the 35mm prime, 2 spare Nikon batteries, high speed card and my previous card as the spare.
Camera battery charger is no good here as we would be without power through he trek, so we dumped it in a 3rd category of luggage that was eventually left at the last village with power and our stay on the first and last day post the trek.


I wonder why different shoes are required for hiking, however we go with the recommendation and head multiple times to Decathlon to pick up stuff. In hindsight, I realize, each of the purchases turned out good.
The shoes withstood the wear & tear of the terrain, the slush, the rocks, the slide of the footstep on descent, every time I hurl my 80 kg body from over a feet high.
The trousers, with pockets at the knees are a boon. With rain wear covering, retrieving anything is an ordeal unless the pockets are low. And they are zippered, absolutely critical.
head torches are a god send at sub-zero temperatures out in the wilderness. With multiple gloves on, how else would one see ahead!

Medical checks done, adjustments done, add on dosage of green leafy vegetables done, online shopping for additional camera batteries, power-banks, altimeter, lightweight (850g) camera bag done, lets fast forward to the trek.

We land up at Bagdogra airport.

Sunday (Day-1): We are enroute to Yuksom (pronounced Yaksum) and its turned evening.


Bridges are narrow and only 1 vehicle can pass.


IN fact, on many bridges, only 1 vehicle is permitted on the bridge at any point of time, here the next vehicle is seen waiting for the vehicle on bridge to cross.




As we reach the homestay, realize that homestays are at times so much better than hotels. Very beautiful place and a chance to interact with the locals and learn about the place. we are told about the ground rules, and the need to segregate stuff we would not require over the next 5 days until we return back to the village.







Monday(Day-2): We head out on the trek. Here is where I realize and recollect a few things: (1) Drinking 3-4 litres of water is a must. To carry it on your backpack is a pain. (2) The decision to get a lightweight camera bag was awesome, each gram matters now. (3) 3 lens is a bit too many to carry along for 15 km for the day !





As we tread along, discussions come up about how clean Sikkim is. I gather that there is an extremely high degree of awareness about preservation, that Sikkim is fully organic and the fact that I do not recollect seeing plastic yet. As we tread along, a bit of the write-up as well.





Soon we are spell-bound by what the nature has to offer...








The first of the many bridges where we cross deep and fast flowing water bodies.


Soon it gets dark, its only 5 PM. We are away from our night halt. With a lot of effort, we make it to the camp. Its refreshing to get hot drinks and to see the hustle and bustle. This is the stage we were contemplating on pulling back. Glad we decided to go ahead. Next day was to be a shorter trek of about 7 hours to Phedang.



Tuesday (Day-3): We head from Bakhim (9000 ft) to Phedang (about 11500 ft).

Its a steep incline to Tshokha (about 2 km), however with fresh legs, we make it in an hour and a half.

We camp here.


At nightfall, we get to see stars and more...


Morning leaves us spellbound.








The rays of the sun cast a spell on the surroundings.



Wednesday (Day-4): We head from Phedang to Dzongri (13500 ft) -
The path is tougher but the terrain has changed and its very beautiful.

[subbarp]

Phedang (11500 ft.) to Dzongri (13500 ft.) was very beautiful. The terrain changes completely. If day-1 was about waterfalls, waterbodies, bridges, greenery and the 2nd day about higher altitudes, this day was about being on top of clouds - literally. There were periods of time you felt it was raining and it wasn't. It was the clouds brushing against you and the visibility dropped to almost nothing.

Before we move on, a revisit :
Monday (Day-2/ Day-1 of trek) was about waterfalls, waterbodies, crossing bridges and the beautiful interplay between sun, clouds and lush green mountains:




Tuesday (Day-3/Day-2 of trek) was about interesting experiences. Lots of trees that resemble animals, one such example.



Wednesday(Day-4/Day-3 of trek) was magical. With one of my favorites. The violence within the snowflakes, the clouds rushing in and the color closer to you was mesmerizing.


The rays of the sun hitting the surrounding mountains at Phedang.


The beautiful Rhododendron tree and the icy mountains in the backdrop.


For the first time, I felt ears pop - outside of an aircraft. You could feel something flowing through your cheeks and something trying to force its way - not sure how to explain but that is the closest. This was my first brush with 8000 feet or over outside of an airplane.

In the pic - Malik and the guide interning with the group Budha.


While you find ponies in the picture, one would find Yaks and ponies on the trail.

Soon (i.e. in 5 hours time), we reach Dzongri meadows. The hide-&-seek with the clouds is beautiful here. The trail that is visible in the picture is in fact a very steep descent.


Another view with clouds coming in, and at a lower altitude than the trail.


We march on and soon reach out camp at Dzongri @ 13500 ft.


It is raining. Hey! hold on, its snowing. Even before we make it to our tents, its started to snow and we are held up in the mess tent - the common tent where we congregate.



Day-5 (Thursday):
The day when we watch the mightly mountains from up close has arrived.
Our camp from a small hillock we climb.


The views are simply amazing.







A little earlier (around 4:30AM), we clicked black Kabru (18000m) in darkness.



Where is Kanchengdzonga - did you just ask ? The sunrays turn it from dark hazy white to red to golden to white and then it disappears in a stream of cloud that gathers soon after. Notice the snow flakes near the top also colored throught he sunrays!







Around 9AM, we start our descent. The plan for the day is to head back right till Bakhim, we go down from 13500ft. (Dzongri camp) to about 9000 ft. (Bakhim camp). I get descent sickness .



Day-6: Friday
We head from Bakhim to Yuksom village.


Day-7:Saturday
We head down from Yuksom and visit Tashiding monastry en-route.






From Tashiding, we head via Jorethang, exit Sikkim near Melli and head to Kalimpong.



Recollections:
Was the hike all about mountains and nature? Absolutely not. The flowers from across the trip were mesmerizing and very very colorful. A small collection:












Did I miss the fauna?








Are these all the colors? No- some are to follow.

[subbarp]

Riot of colors to follow.






















Oops! I am on team-bhp, where are the roads? A brief on the road-conditions.


At the start of the trip, we landed up at Bagdogra airport and from there, went in a Xylo to Yuksom, a Mahindra Max from Yuksom to Kalimpong and a Tata Sumo from Kalimpong to the airport. The first 2 stretches were covered by Sikkim registered vehicles.

The roads in Sikkim are good in parts, landslides pose a huge challenge. Nonetheless its very beautiful, with interesting bridges, crossings and rivers and streams to keep you company throughout. Needless to stay, its through and through ghat sections and curvy roads. 4x4 is not essential for these stretches (we traveled in taxis, none of which were 4x4).



Did you know that car washes in Sikkim are free?






And that bridges are beautiful !!






En-route Tashiding monastry




Roads can get dusty due to landslides and construction, particularly between Jorethang and Melli.





Tricky crossings with landslides, narrow roads and opposite traffic.





Interesting public transport


Ghat sections



Finally, we cross some streams, waterbodies that've kept us company throughout and depart Sikkim !!





We've now descended many thousands of feet and back to the daily drill.

[Samurai]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thanks for sharing!

[subbarp]

Post Travelogue Notes:

Putting up a few details I missed earlier.

Trekkers hut at Phedang


The trail and the landscape

Waterfall at a distance


Waterbodies keeping company



The trail



Yaks:



Do notice that Yaks prefer to walk away from the stones and on the soft mud. They are also able to watch out for steep steps.






Prayers flags just before Bakhim.




Slight climb up from Dzongri (On the way to Dzongri-top)


Another view of the trail (the easier part).



Few more photographs from outside Tashiding monastery






Prayer flags just before Tashiding. These flags have holy scriptures written out on them.




Some more fauna:






The Group: Our group consisted of 20 trekkers (most of us first timers). In addition, we had a the the representative from the organizers - Mr. Malik (from Kipepeo). Interestingly, Mr Malik is from one of the premier technology schools in the country. He has left that to focus on a career closer to nature and to be with nature. He is one of the founding members of the travel group that focuses on North-east.

From the local team, we had Mr. N.B (Narendra Bhandari) who take care of all the logistics and required document submissions, 3 assistant guides, the chief cook, an assistant cook, 4 kitchen porters, 5 Yaks men (16 supporting staff for 20 of us - ). This is not counting the 19 Yaks supporting us.


Cuisine and health care: Heavy duty garlic was the one recommended medicine prescribed to us, to be taken pro-actively (Garlic, apart from the anti-inflammatory properties is believed to be a blood thinner and hence good at higher altitudes). Of the 20 of us, 5 dropped of at different stages and stayed put at Tshoka till the rest of the group returned.

Learning: Take it slow. Slow and steady climb is better. Gaining altitude too fast is not a good idea. Drink lots of water (4 liters+). The general recommendation is to not ascend more than 300 meters/day at very high altitudes and not more than 500 meters/day at high altitudes.

On this trip, Phedang (11500 ft.) and beyond (to Dzongri - 13500 ft.) would classify as very high altitude.

(Scale: High altitude = 1,500–3,500 metres (4,900–11,500 ft); Very high altitude = 3,500–5,500 metres (11,500–18,000 ft); Extreme altitude = above 5,500 metres )


Temperature & Clothing: At this time of the year, we observed it hovers from 10-12 down to few degrees below zero. However it is different from city life as there is no electricity and one is out in the open. Layering is the key for non-trekking time. 6-7 layers is recommended (inner-wear, thermals, top (1/2 layers), multiple pull-overs/ jackets). Single pair of gloves would do for most part beyond Phedang, Down feather gloves/ 2nd pair may be required for Dzongri/ Dzongri top.

While trekking, keep clothing light as sweat will build up and cause a chill (no thermals). A single jacket may be worn and taken off as the body warms up pretty quickly on a trek.


Travel to Bagdogra: From Bengaluru, direct (with 1 hop) flights exist, so Bagdogra is about 4.5 hours away (excluding the equivalent time in Bengaluru to reach the airport and check-in)


Trek Grading: Dzongri trek is classified as a moderate trek as per trek classification guidelines.

The longer Goecha-La trek is a more difficult one (but one which takes you closer to the mountains) - this one is classified under the top 10 treks in India.

With these experiences, looking forward to the next one.

[mbilung]

wonderful thread subbarp, getting goosebumps seeing the marvellous nature through photos. Thrilled to imagine what you would have experienced first-hand during the entire trek.

Thanks for motivating us to take the plunge and kick the bucket.

Regards,
Manish

[famousshoes]

Originally Posted by subbarp

(1) Drinking 3-4 litres of water is a must. To carry it on your backpack is a pain. (2) The decision to get a lightweight camera bag was awesome, each gram matters now. (3) 3 lens is a bit too many to carry along for 15 km for the day !

true that! as you gain altitude and the body struggles for O2 every extra gram is a pain. remembered my time at NIM in uttarkashi last year. Ever the optimist, I'd taken along 3 lenses and 2 camera bodies and was shooting on film to boot! Had it not been for my mates i would never've been able to lug that stuff up to base camp.
thanks for the nice write up and photographs subbarp, Im sure you must ve shed some weight as well
and i hope you make that trip to Goecha-La soon
cheers

Originally Posted by mbilung

wonderful thread subbarp, getting goosebumps seeing the marvellous nature through photos. Thrilled to imagine what you would have experienced first-hand during the entire trek.

Thanks for motivating us to take the plunge and kick the bucket.

manish you should probably edit that last line a little. The phrase means something that you defenitely do not intend

[subbarp]

Originally Posted by mbilung

wonderful thread subbarp, getting goosebumps seeing the marvellous nature through photos. Thrilled to imagine what you would have experienced first-hand during the entire trek.

thanks a lot Manish. It was amazing and very different to what I have seen before (in-spite of having traveled around a bit).

It is indeed a challenge to do justice and capture the beautiful setting into a picture, its difficult. You cannot capture 360 degree view into a lens. Consider a waterfall next to you, with the spray of cold water, the sound of water gushing, the sight and the smell, difficult to capture into a device.

Few in the group (I heard) were emotional at Dzongri Top seeing the rays of the sun hitting the mountain range- its that kind of a feeling (and I hear from people, its perfectly normal to do so). Absolutely thrilling and would love to be on another trek of this kind.

Originally Posted by famousshoes

true that! as you gain altitude and the body struggles for O2 every extra gram is a pain. remembered my time at NIM in uttarkashi last year. Ever the optimist, I'd taken along 3 lenses and 2 camera bodies and was shooting on film to boot! Had it not been for my mates i would never've been able to lug that stuff up to base camp.
thanks for the nice write up and photographs subbarp, Im sure you must ve shed some weight as well
and i hope you make that trip to Goecha-La soon

Famousshoes, as we cannot cut down on carrying water, we need to look at anything else to leave behind. What I found was my wife's advice on chucking the 2 kg camera bag in favour of a new one weighing under a kg was key. Prior to the trip, I chucked the stock 18-55mm. Post day-1, I carried just the wide angle on the camera, with the rest being carried separately.

By the way, towards the end of day-1, post Sachen and just before Bakhim, my backpack (light one at that) was carried by Malik (our lead) all the way to the camp at Bakhim (that we reached at 6:30PM) as I had got too slow and was taking too many breaks (and it was getting late and was dark).

On weight, I would want to remain in the illusion that I've lost some.
Goecha-La would be amazing, have heard you see Mt. Pandim right next to you as you trek on that one.


Would also like to take this opportunity to thank Samurai for general advise (+physical fitness advise) ahead of the trip.

[Wanderers]

Hi Subbarp,

Thanks for sharing this adventurous travelogue.
Amazing Photographs, courtesy Mother Nature I would say.

Please share the details of Home stay. Are there any Resort or Hotel nearby for people wanting to travel to this place.

Thanks in advance.

[subbarp]

Originally Posted by Wanderers

Hi Subbarp,

Thanks for sharing this adventurous travelogue.
Amazing Photographs, courtesy Mother Nature I would say.

Please share the details of Home stay. Are there any Resort or Hotel nearby for people wanting to travel to this place.

Thanks in advance.

Hi Wanderers,

Yuksom is a village and is the last motorable point for the trek. It has limited options for accommodation. There are a few hotels that are basic. There are no resorts at this place.

Pelling (about 40km away) has many more accommodation options and one can choose to stay there if trekking is not the primary purpose.

The home-stay where we were put up by the organizing group is called Ejam Residency (We hadn't researched it). It is pretty good (and has got great reviews on travel portals). Food was good, but please bear in mind that given its a home-stay and not a hotel, food options would be limited. Please use keywords 'Ejam Residency, Yuksom' if you are looking it up on google.

Hope this information was useful.

Adding a few photographs of the garden.






The surroundings from the village




There is a shrine nearby but it happened to be closed when we went there early in the morning, so could not check it out.






Views from Yuksom.




Rounding up with one of my favorite pictures of the mighty Kanchengdzonga (with the early morning glow).

[informmaha]

OMG, what an experience and I could not refrain myself from appreciating this thread. Great write up and very good photographs.

One thing that I wanted to know was, you had mentioned about your kids in one line, were they able to make it for the entire stretch? If so how would it be for them? (very tough or manageable)

I did a 8km stretch of The Chembra Peak in Wayanad and I was exited after reaching the top. If I try what you have achieved I would be at the top of this world. Hope that dream comes true sometimes in the future.

[subbarp]

Originally Posted by informmaha

OMG, what an experience and I could not refrain myself from appreciating this thread. Great write up and very good photographs.

One thing that I wanted to know was, you had mentioned about your kids in one line, were they able to make it for the entire stretch? If so how would it be for them? (very tough or manageable)

I did a 8km stretch of The Chembra Peak in Wayanad and I was exited after reaching the top. If I try what you have achieved I would be at the top of this world. Hope that dream comes true sometimes in the future.

Hi Informmaha,

Its very interesting you mentioned about how kids do on these stretches. We had 8 kids between ages 8 and 12 in a group of 20. 3 of them were 8 year old (whom we called the chatterbox trio as they were the most enjoyable company with their jokes and chatter through the walk).

All of them managed the trip well, a few kids ran up too fast and fell unwell. Gaining altitude slowly is important.

How well do kids manage? Some background gathered prior to the trip:
Even I had the same doubt prior to the trip and was concerned. There were 2 data points I gathered prior to the trip. I will then provide my experiences.

1. Samurai's thread on Dzongri -
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...ri-trek-5.html

The youngest on that trek was a 7 year old. Moreover he mentions a bunch of school kids made it - that was inspiring and was glad to note that.

2. Our Organizer - I asked him whether 8 year olds can manage? His reply was - I am more worried about you .


How well do kids manage? Some information gathered through experience:

1. Kids usually manage well on these walks - they are more adaptable, more flexible. Of course, they should be enthusiastic about the trip, generally fit and it is essential they've followed some kind of physical activity (active sports, karate etc.).

2. They forget to drink water, we need to keep reminding them to be hydrated sufficiently and we would require to monitor this.

3. On the trek, they may not focus enough on breakfast/ lunch, important to make sure they've had sufficient solids to eat. There isn't much on the way other than add on snacks like dry fruits/ chocolates that we should carry.

4. Trek guides look for certain signs (this is true for adults as well) -
a. if one is not eating enough
b. if one is not speaking and is silent
c. slurring
These are viewed as initial signs of altitude sickness. For these reasons, they do not allow folks to be in their individual tents, everybody is supposed to congregate in mess tents.

As long as these are adhered to, things should be fine.

thanks,
Subbarp

[informmaha]

Originally Posted by subbarp

Hi Informmaha,


2. Our Organizer - I asked him whether 8 year olds can manage? His reply was - I am more worried about you .


How well do kids manage? Some information gathered through experience:

1. Kids usually manage well on these walks - they are more adaptable, more flexible. Of course, they should be enthusiastic about the trip, generally fit and it is essential they've followed some kind of physical activity (active sports, karate etc.).

2. They forget to drink water, we need to keep reminding them to be hydrated sufficiently and we would require to monitor this.

3. On the trek, they may not focus enough on breakfast/ lunch, important to make sure they've had sufficient solids to eat. There isn't much on the way other than add on snacks like dry fruits/ chocolates that we should carry.

4. Trek guides look for certain signs (this is true for adults as well) -
a. if one is not eating enough
b. if one is not speaking and is silent
c. slurring
These are viewed as initial signs of altitude sickness. For these reasons, they do not allow folks to be in their individual tents, everybody is supposed to congregate in mess tents.

As long as these are adhered to, things should be fine.

thanks,
Subbarp

Hey Subbarp,

Those first 2 lines sum up the answers for my query and after thinking agree that, yeah they can easily make it compared to teenagers/ older people than them

The other points are good to know as well and thanks much for clarifying with explanations.

Regards,
Rajan