[satan]

Day 7: Leh – Khardungla - Nubra – Pangong (via Shyok)

Today’s plan was to cross Khardungla and camp at Deskit. We set off by 8am and after a customary stop at the Khardung top which was packed with tourists we left for Deskit and by 2pm we were lunching at the Deskit monastery. The plan was to spend the rest of the afternoon lazing around Deskit drive to Hunder and return. However at lunch we got talking to one of the monks who advised us to try out the road to Pangong Tso via Shyok saying it had a couple of nice river crossings. At the back of our minds we were also concious of the number of days we had in hand. So in a split second decision we decided to leave for Pangong post lunch. And within the next 20 mins we were back on the road. We encountered a mini sandstorm before Agham and also stopped by a military truck for pics to find an overturned gypsy lying in the back of the truck. The road via Shyok was quite amazing and it was my first time thru that route. The rocks in some parts are actually golden in color reminding me of the movie Mackenna’s Gold. The river crossings were not difficult as the water level wasn’t very high. I can imagine those to be quite tough early summer when the snowmelt is heavy and rivers are in full force. Surprisingly we encountered just 2 vehicles all the way to Durbuk where this road meets the Changla Pangong stretch. One of them was the crazy truckdriver who came like up a blind curve like a bat out of hell. We captured that scene in the video.

We reached the start of Pangong around 9pm and drove upto the only hotel there Pangong Inn I think. The cheeky receptionist took one look at the car and quoted us 8k per person per room which caused me to almost fall off the drivers seat laughing. She also made it a point to reiterate that hers was the only hotel available at the lake unless we wanted to stay in tents at spagmik. I was so put off with her that I told her we’d camp in the car that night next to the lake much to her shock. We had a simple dinner at the 3 idiots café where we got chatting with the owner who offered us place for the night in a plywood cabin with 6 beds and new rajais @ INR 600 for the room. No points for guessing that accepted immediately after checking out the room and soon retired for the night with Cruiser parked right outside.

Enroute to Khardungla


South Pullu checkpost


First pics of Nubra Valley


The Khardungla Frog


The straight across the valley


Nearing Deskit


At the Deskit Monastery






Menu Card at the monastery

[satan]

Originally Posted by anandpadhye

Lovely trip and lovely thread The Land cruiser looks beautiful. Old is gold, really!

Thanks and agree on Old being gold

Originally Posted by samarth.bhatia

Very interesting read, this.

The Land Cruiser feels like the ideal vehicle for these surroundings, in terms of both comfort & capability.

Absolutely

Originally Posted by samarth.bhatia

Hats off to Gev - finding the brake switch fault couldn't have been easy.

No question about that. Actually more than just identifying the fault in Leh, what really impressed me was the confidence that he demonstrated down in Jispa that it had to be a small thing that he could resolve later. Respect!!

Originally Posted by samarth.bhatia

Could you share more pictures of the vehicle interiors?

Sure here you go

[Nvrao]

So beautifully written, thanks. We did Delhi-Leh via Manali in 2015 and your thread refreshed the fond (and some not so fond ) memories.

The video was nicely put together as well.

Best Regards
NV

[Luv_Jaiswal]

Wow! I didn't know you were on the forum. I've waited for a year for this
Mr. Gev had shown me pictures right after you guys came back. Was totally amazed.

He does know cars in and out hands down; even with our '99 Prado, it would have been impossible to maintain without him.

Rating this 5 stars.

Regards,
Luv Jaiswal.

[behaln]

Great travelogue man, ladakh in a land cruiser calls for some great guts. Good that you had company of an expert with you. Car feels at home inspire being an old lady.
Awesome narration and pics. Awaiting more details of the journey.

[satan]

Originally Posted by behaln

Great travelogue man, ladakh in a land cruiser calls for some great guts. Good that you had company of an expert with you. Car feels at home inspire being an old lady.
Awesome narration and pics. Awaiting more details of the journey.

Thanks. Yes the cruiser is my grand old lady but very spirited nevertheless. On the way back we drove her non stop for more than 14 hours for 3 days in a row without any fuss. And after driving thru Sach and the battered passes in Ladakh there isnt even as much as a small creak in the truck. These things are overbuilt no doubt.

Originally Posted by Luv_Jaiswal

Wow! I didn't know you were on the forum. I've waited for a year for this
Mr. Gev had shown me pictures right after you guys came back. Was totally amazed.

He does know cars in and out hands down; even with our '99 Prado, it would have been impossible to maintain without him.

Rating this 5 stars.

Regards,
Luv Jaiswal.

Thanks Luv. I have seen your dad's Prado at the workshop a few times. Yes Gev is easily the most analytically and logically sound persons I've know especially when it comes to cars and trucks. Definitely an asset to have on such long distance trips. Fantastic driver too, infact the only person I let drive the cruiser

Originally Posted by Nvrao

So beautifully written, thanks.

The video was nicely put together as well.

Best Regards
NV

Thanks. Credits for the video to Michele (compositing), Pete (soundtrack), Gev (shooting) and Shiva (idea + shooting)

[BPS_93]

Great travelogue, the car is a beauty maintained with love, definitely a keeper man ��

[Shwet]

Wonderful travelogue. This is a brilliantly described joust through the testing passes of Ladakh.

One can't think of a better vehicle than a Toyota Landcruiser for this terrain. The truck is built to last. The toughness and reliability of these machines is legendary.

[satan]

Some more pics from Nubra valley

[Styler]

Great Write-up and pictures Satan. Old is really Gold. I have a 12 year old Scorpio which has been to Leh in 2010,2012 and we did the Spiti circuit in 2016.
BTW how much has your Land Cruiser Done ?

[satan]

Originally Posted by Styler

Great Write-up and pictures Satan. Old is really Gold. I have a 12 year old Scorpio which has been to Leh in 2010,2012 and we did the Spiti circuit in 2016.
BTW how much has your Land Cruiser Done ?

Thanks. She's around 165,000 kms

[satan]

Day 8: PangongTso to Jispa

We were both knocked out after the previous day’s drive and woke up at a lazy 8am and then after a quick bite we drove down to the banks of the lake which was deserted. We hung around there for 30mins soaking in the solitude and peace, clicked a few pics and then started back our journey to Bombay. The plan for that day was to halt at Jispa for the night. We backtracked to Karu via Chang la which again was very sparse and devoid of the general tourist crowd. Had some tea there and then drove to straight to the fuel pump at Karu filled up the cruiser and then turned south. Explored a few shortcuts while ascending Lachlung La and Baralach La. Stopped for late lunch at Pang followed by a quick coffee at Gold Drop camp at Sarchu. It was close to 9.30pm when we reached Jispa and again checked in at The Yak.
Some pics from that day


Packing up


Views of the Pangong Lake








The Cruiser by the Lake






Heading back


At Chang La top


The Z road when descending Chang La


Pics enroute






The fork towards Tso Morriri, Tso Kar and Mahe just before the More Plains. Could not do the lakes last year. Will do these in two and half months from now


At Lachlung La top



Mini tornados along the More plains stirring up columns of sand

[jaysmokesleaves]

Wonderful TL Nev. Missed joining you on this one. Quite some parts n oil and stuff u seem to have carried along. Scary narration of you sliding into the waterfall. The kept the old lady well. Looks stunning. Cheers.

[atu2good]

Amazing travelogue! The narration and the pics both have a subtle air of serenity and calm to them, must have been a incomparably liberating experience to get away from the maddening crowds of the city.

[satan]

Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves

Wonderful TL Nev. Missed joining you on this one.

Thanks Jay. Lets do a trip this monsoon

Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves

Quite some parts n oil and stuff u seem to have carried along

"Pray for the best and prep for the worst" - My Himalayan Mantra

Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves

Scary narration of you sliding into the waterfall.

You bet it was. i still get the shakes thinking about it..

Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves

The kept the old lady well. Looks stunning. Cheers.

Thanks very much.!!

Originally Posted by atu2good

Amazing travelogue! The narration and the pics both have a subtle air of serenity and calm to them, must have been a incomparably liberating experience to get away from the maddening crowds of the city.

Thank you. For me its almost a pilgrimage to visit the Himalaya every so often. Besides the exhilarating drive, there is this un-explainable calm in those mountains and even more peace in the Gompas there.