[abirnale]

Day 7: August 25, 2017

The plan for today was simply drive towards Panikhar and Pensi-la and see if we can reach any glaciers by 1pm. If not, return back to Kargil. The entire group started for Pensi-la by 6.30am and continued through the noon. This was our first clash with harshest terrain and roads. Almost non-existent roads beyond Panikhar, not many users on the road, unknown locations on the map and fast changing temperatures! The day was exciting. The group drove little short of Rangdum. The rains kept company in the region and that forced some of us to return earlier to Kargil. Two cars continued in the hope that things will change and got some good close encounters with glaciers too. The day was good exposure for our driving kills, patience and uncertainty on the road. Couple of heavy streams crossing, some tight and narrow roads was beginning of our more challenging times ahead!



We returned for the evening to Kargil and took rest. The next day is to visit post 43 and continue to Leh. Two more passes on the way!

Some pictures from the day -



















The snow laden mountains, views of nun-kun peaks, calm and serene suru valley - these were the highlights of the day! The sad part is, I returned from the place which was 2 hours away from Pensi-la top :(

[abirnale]

Day 8: August 26, 2017

Through some private arrangements and approvals at higher level, group had privilege to visit the Post 43 this morning. For the non-starters, Post 43 Its one of the important post which is so close to Pakistan border that civilians get a view of it from their regular commuting routes. After having heard the briefing at Drass memorial from a soldier there, we had this excitement and curiosity to see through the life at border. We have a open to public view point in near to Kargil city from where you can see the Pakistan and Indian posts. Post 43 is one such post. We were lucky to meet our brave-hearts and listen to the stories of gallant and courage! Of course we were not allowed to go in large groups, no pictures and not divulge into any details. Our objective was to learn ourselves the situation in which these soldiers spend their day and express our gratitude towards their service to use civilians.

All I can say based on what I have experienced in my life is - there is no other institution than armed forces that has the kind of focus, dedication and determination! My head is held up high with proud for their work!

After the quick visit to post 43, we headed to Leh. This route required us to go through some great tarmac roads built by BRO. We crossed over Fotu-la and Namika-la and went over lamayuru. This road is picturesque as well as driver's paradise for what we ad see so far! The challenge we also tackled is to repair a puncture at the top of Fotu-la. Change a tyre at Lamayuru! And all of this with entire group waiting at that height. Not a single soul had any trouble - the energies and enthusiasm could put a healthy mechanic to shame in plains! Also around Saspol, we encountered a bridge repair. That had blocked btoh side traffic for good two hours! All of this delayed our arrival in Leh. We crossed the Indus and Zanskar river confluence points as well as Magnetic hill when it was dark. So we had no other option but to couple these two visits once again tomorrow morning before we do Leh local sight Seeing.



Pictures to add to this day -




Attachment 1673713

















The next two days were spent at Leh as Rest/ Local Sight Seeing, Permits making.

[abirnale]

Day 9 & 10: August 27 and 28, 2017

For some reason we missed the fact that in Leh, Sunday is no guarantee for any automobile service stations to be open! That means we had to change the plan to stay in Leh for an additional day - Monday and get the car checkups done. This is important as we head to most treacherous circuit henceforth. Also, the news that Shyok route being open for reaching to Pangong from Diskit, helped us save the day anyway.




So we visited the local sites like Thiksey Monastry, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Hall Of Fame memorial. Some even went to Hemis Monastry. We did a lot of local shopping and enjoyed our stay in Leh. The car checkup was breeze followed by a good car wash! Our hotelier also helped us to do the permits for rest of the circuits.

Here are some pictures from the two days wandering in and around Leh -













With everything set - permits, cars and adequate rest, we are ready to cross Khardung-la into much tougher terrain tomorrow onwards.

[abirnale]

Day 11: August 29, 2017

This was literally the "high point" of the trip! As per plan we were expected to go to Turtuk but then thought came to mind that Nubra valley being primary objective - we will drive towards sand dunes, part of Nubra valley and actually make Diskit as our night stop.



Hence, started from Leh by 6.30am and climbed along Khardung-la. The most touted high-pass. The convoy was split into two parts - and unexpectedly one of the car had a flat tyre just when it started descending. The bad part is puncture was so wide, tyre needed to be replaced. The problem was amplified when the nut on wheel could not be loosened. It was applied using pneumatic gun and was very tight. In the effort to loosen the nut, threads were spoiled. But finally army help was sought to remove the wheel and change to spare. Luckily there was a spare nut - things were fine. Just that we lost good 1.5 hours in the process!

Crossing KTop towards north pullu, the terrain changes drastically. The mountains become more soiled and less of stones. Shyok river valley is not very pleasant - appears to be angry at travellers! We braved this stretch and reached much before day ends into Diskit. After checking into the hotel, left for Sand dunes/ camel ride and nearby drive. It was one great day with good achievements - Crossing K-Top without sweat (except the car who had puncture), Sand Dunes and good drive along Shyok.

Pictures from the day -














Tomorrow we plan to take Shyok - Agham route that is recently opened and reach Tangtse. Visit Pangong Tso in evening if we get time and settle for the day.

[abirnale]

Day 12: August 30, 2017

Knowing that the Shyok - Agham route is open, we decided to take this route. As decided, we started around 6am from Diskit. Prior to leaving from Diskit, we filled our car diesel tanks to the brim at only IOCL bunk in Diskit. There is no fuel available from Diskit - Tangtse - Pangng - Hanle - Tso Moriri to Thandi! The 70 Ltr XUV tank isn't sufficient for this entire circuit. We took another 20 ltrs in the simple cans with us.



Somehow the convoy delayed until 7am - the cars coming from Pratapura had faced roadblocks due to landslides. There was even larger issue in store for us. The Shyok route is broken patch of road after Khalsar. There were three large water crossings! And chances of landslide. Just before Khalsar, a small 3 inch shooting stone fell from the mountain i was crossing through - it broke the sunroof and shattered the glass. Lucky, we did not get it inside the car and nothing untoward. To fix the issue, I used a spare bonnet sticker we had made and applied on the roof. We used ample cello tape on the roof to laminate it! The jugaad lasted for the entire trip! Though this created some panic and we split our cars based on our pace and made to tangtse as early as we can - this was toughest day. A car behind me escaped the slide by few feet. A boulder rolled down behind my car and before the car behind me crossed the place. We did not even blink and stop - just kept going. It was drizzling as well so group was just marching ahead to reach tangtse.

Having overcome all odds, we still managed to reach Tang Tse by 2:30pm and decided to make a quick dash to Pangong Tso lake upto Spangmik and return for the night to stay at lower altitude place - Tang Tse. I chose to not take my car to Panging Tso and joined other cars - logic was to save some fuel as well as avid throwing car on more bad roads beyond lake towards Spangmik. A little down, dis-mood the day ended with mixed feelings.

Pictures from the day -








Tomorrow we have to choose between routes via Parma Post or via Merak. But thats for morning start. For now, day ended with some good pictures and scars for the rest of the trip.

[abirnale]

Day 13: August 31, 2017

After having visited Pangng Tso and hearing some taxi drivers talk about condition of road, some us wanted to take the route fro Tang Tse via Parma post. Since the permits were all made, it want an issue. After Parma post, the roads will join at Chushul and then via Tsaga La, we will continue to Hanle for evening.



It turned out that this road is worst than TangTse - Spangmik - Merak Chushul! We had a car stuck momentarily in the sand too! We lost good 5+ hrs just to reach Chushul! Thereafter reaching Loma bend itself is a task. Especially the terrain after Chushul is lonely, like a desert, no vehicles around - almost scary of anything goes wrong. On the way, there is Major Shaitan Singh memorial at Rezingla. After you cross Tsaga la - the roads and views become much pleasant and drool-worthy! Roads become smooth and faster too. By the time we reached Hanle, sun had set. The clouds had mounted above us and there was slim chance we could spot any galaxy or stars :( Couldn't help. When weather gods decide not to help, as human we are helpless. Luckily, next day morning before we leave for Tso Moriri - we had opportunity to visit Observatory and understand how it works. Took some pictures here, saw a presentation at the centre and we continued onto our next destination - Tso Moriri with the hope that we will have clearer sky to catch a glimpse of galaxy! We weren't disappointed!













With a good long day's drive and good rest in Hanle, next day was a comparatively shorter drive to Tso Moriri.

[abirnale]

Day 14: Sept 1, 2017

After Visiting the Hanle Observatory, we set ourselves off to Tso Moriri via Loma Bend - Nyoma. Mostly the roads were good except after Nyoma they were little bad.



In Tso Moriri we stayed in tents. The temperatirs at night touched zero degrees and we saw some fresh snow around on the hill tops. Some of us who kept awake due to cold, around 3am witnessed clear skies and were quick to capture some shooting stars and galaxies in their cameras. It was an amazing day and different stay experience in Tso Moriri. Before reaching to Karzok camps, we also had good picnic lunch at Kyagar Tso - temperatures during the day were very warm and bearable!










This was our last overnight stop in the core ladakh region! Tomorrow head back to plains via manali - few more passes to conquer!

[abirnale]

Day 15: Sept 2, 2017

With the feeling that almost trip is over, we left Tso Moriri/ Karzok Camps in the morning around 6am with the target to reach Jispa or Keylong.



On our way we had some well known passes, photo points (More Plains, gata Loops, etc.) and combination of good and bad roads! At places we had good roads but bumpy! Broken roads as well as best in More Plains! We had worst roads in passes like Lachungla. Barlacha la wasnt very bad in terms of road, but we witnessed snow fall at the top! Killing Sarai was breeze - the 9ton rated bridge was completely operational and no issues whatsoever. Before reaching More plains, we also saw bunch of hot springs before seeing Tso kar. On the way near Whisky Nala bridge, we were stuck for an hour due to bridge repair. At the end of the day around 9pm, we made it to Jispa and retired for the day!









With only pass - Rohathang la for next day, we were almost done with the Ladakh trip adventures! All that awaits us is some twisties and plain tarmac!

[abirnale]

Day 16, 17, 18, 19: Sept 3 to Sept 6th, 2017

In Thandi - after Jispa, we filled diesel at ICOL COCO and set off to climb the Rohthang la pass to reach Manali. The roads to ascend are super slushy and often with traffic, one can get stuck there. We had one such instance when a local bolero refused to give side and got one of our car stuck in the slush. The situation did not resolve until we had a block and people forced that bolero to back off and make way for others. Once you are at the top of Rohthang, road onwards is easy. Goes through the twists and tiny Manali town. We decided to stop at Mandi for night. After Mandi we did straight run to Jhansi and there after to Hyderabad for subsequent day. reaching Bangalore from Hyderabad isn't so challenging anyway!






The Jispa - Manali - Mandi route is scenic and plagued with tourist traffic. We were on this road over weekend. That added to more driving woes. We were virtually done with the trip and now being in plains - single objective was to reach home ASAP. Battling the traffic jams around Chandigarh, Delhi, Agra - we made safe and sound to Bangalore!

[abirnale]

Epilogue

This has been an epic journey - with almost always more than 4 cars together, not having a single instance of health issue, minor break downs and near zero panic situations, we completed trip with much more ease than expected. This is largely due to the efforts put in by HVK and fellow travellers to whose blogs and instructions helped us plan better. The car preparations paid off well.

This trip for many of us was a landmark drive - part of bucket list item - more of the thrill of being in digitally disconnected world with real challenges. The main reason for making this trip look like a regular touristy circuit is our cars. With huge GC and good power at our disposal, the XUVs did not feel eve once to be problematic or short of breath/ power anywhere - be it highest passes of deepest water crossing we had. Obviously when the sedans have done it, XUVs should be a cakewalk and it was!

On our entire journey we crossed below passes - (heights indicative from sign boards or internet)

• Zoji la 12400 ft
• Namika la 12139 ft
• Fotu la 13451 ft
• Khardung la 17582 ft
• Bara-lacha la 16400 ft
• Lungalacha la 16600 ft
• Rohtang la 13051 ft
• Rezang la 16000* ft
• Tsaga la 15207 ft
• Namashang la 16430 ft
• Polokongka la 15394 ft
• Naki la 14725 ft

Some important points to note about -

• The total drive from Bangalore to Bangalore is approximately 8500 Kms in around 19 days!
• The expenses per car were approximately around Rs. 1,00,000 - more the pax size, lesser the per-head cost.
• Most number of people in any car were three. The least being two.
• The lowest age passenger on the trip was - 9 years.
• Not a single traveller took any medicines in entire trip - we only kept ourselves hydrated enough.
• Diskit, Tang Tse and Tso Moriri were colder places and had electricity only during evening for three to four hours. These were also digital black-out areas.
• In the entire trip all our apprehensions about safety turned out to be false. This was by far the most peaceful trip without any issues.
• Only a couple of times we were required to furnish the vehicle papers. No issues with taxies, police or armed forces.
• Army has huge presence in the valley. They ae the first ones to come forward during need of hour.
• We had made several copies of documents, photographs - none were used!
• As a group to track expenses, we used an android app known as Settle Up - huge help it was!
• None of the places we had any issues with fuel - even in places like Hanle and Tang Tse, you will get fuel at black market rates. People store it at home for their own use as electricity is limited there. They can sell it to you at premium price.
• Food wasn't an issue anywhere. Most places we easily get Maggie, Paratha, Omelet and chai!
• Rarely we needed to use our packed food/ dry supplies.
• Of all the instruments we carried - only the wheel spanners came in handy and a puncture repair kit. Rest all was unused.
• We also carried portable oxygen cylinders - never used!

There are many more photographs taken by other travellers and soon be uploaded as they come to me. On this trip we had few TBhpians - @DhanushMenon, @AjayClicks, @fundagenie!

Thank you for the read and hope you liked the photolog! To conclude the log - here is a memory snap custom made shirt from Leh (with some spelling mistakes!)



Julley!

[Aditya]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thanks for sharing!

[abirnale]

Some more pictures form the trip - courtesy Ajay (@ajayclicks) and Dr Jagdeep!







More pictures as they come!

[dhanushmenon]

Wonderful narrative there abirnale. I just relived the whole journey through your log. And I'm sure you would agree with me that, "I already want to be back there again".

Some really catching photographs there. But above all, the best one I liked was the card by the little one. So thoughtful and kind.

Thoroughly enjoyed being part of the journey. Not to mention the previlege of being the sweeper for half the time, and marshal for the rest. Looking forward to more and more journeys to greater destinations, together.

[sumitdongerkery]

Brilliant Avinash! The way you have narrated the entire experience, it feels as if i was personally present in the trip. This is an epic drive most of us dream about and you have just lived one. It was indeed very nice to meet you guys in Mumbai and all your excitement was rubbing off. I have already made up my mind that I have to do this road trip for sure.

Cheers!

[mpksuhas]

Superb!
Congrats to you and also others in the group.

Glad that the drive went as per plan without any issues. Remember you guys frantically discussing security & weather related issues before the trip, guess you were able to finish off the trip without any of those issues.

As you mentioned, this is every driving enthusiasts dream. I was hoping of making it to the trip when the initial planning was ongoing, however that was not to be the case. Well, may be next time.