[dk7729]

Kashmir great lakes trek




Although the bug to explore untouched Himalayas by foot had bit us thanks to the experience of valley of flowers and Hemkund about 2 years ago (documented here ), other bugs, i.e. work (as if I had a choice!) and drive vacations kept me away from treks. Wifey on the other hand had managed a couple of solo trek vacations during this period.

This time around, it was decided to take a trek vacation together. After a lot of search, we decided to pick the Kashmir great lakes trek for its beauty and moderate difficulty level.

Kashmir great lakes is a trek covering hidden gems of Kashmir - multiple high altitude lakes and passes. It is a paradise for a nature lover and what better way to explore these beautiful places than by foot, away from the hustle and bustle of regular motorable tourist spots.

There is enough and more information available online on the overview of this trek, would restrict this log to our experience of this beautiful place.

Day 1: fly to Srinagar, reach campsite near Sonamarg

An uneventful day comes to life once we reach the campsite. The buzz of introductions with our trek mates, the people whom you will spend the next eight days with, getting to know the trek leaders and support staff, your lifeline for the duration of the trek, first glimpses of the pristine nature which is about to unfold itself over the next few days.

Views from the campsite





Day ends with a sumptuous dinner in the dinner tent and briefing of what to expect over the next week.

Day 2: beginning of the trek

Destination for the day – Nichnai campsite
Distance – 11 km over approx 8 hours
Altitude gained - ~ 3,700 feet

A warm and sunny day greeted us for the start of the trek. The trail starts from the Srinagar highway and diverts left to be welcomed by green meadows. For the first hour or so, looking back you have beautiful view of the Sonamarg valley, post which the trail passes through dense forest of maple and pine trees. Post crossing the tree line, the trail snakes through meadows between mountain ranges with beautiful views. Halt for lunch by a water stream and experience the chill of water by soaking feet and arms which within no time feel numb. Post lunch, continued through the meadows to reach campsite for the day.



Last signs of civilization for the next few days





View of the valley as we progress









Life goes on for the local shepherds



Trail leading to Nichnai

[dk7729]

Day 3:

Destination for the day – Vishansar campsite, via Nichnai pass (13,100 feet)
Distance – 12 km, over ~ 8 hours
Altitude gained – ascent of 1,600 ft, cross Nichnai pass and descent of 1,000 ft.
Lakes – Vishansar lake (15 minute walk from campsite)

Day begins with an ascent to the Nichnai pass, the real fatigue of ascent over short distance hits hard and breathlessness is common. Continue to sip water, halting when needed and take one step at a time to reach the pass. We took a small break at the pass, rejuvenating and soaking beauty of snow clad peaks all around. Small descent post the pass is followed by long walk over meadows between two mountain ranges. Lunch is post crossing another water stream and the walk over meadows continues for long hours till we reach campsite for the day.

Vishansar lake is a 10 minute walk from the campsite. After resting for a while at the camp, we headed to the pristine lake and spent some time sitting by the banks of the lakes before returning to the camp by nightfall. Needless to say, nights in these parts of the world are extremely cold and sleeping bags kept us well insulated from the elements.

By the stream along the campsite































Vishansar lake







Campsite from Vishansar lake side

[dk7729]

Day 4:

Destination for the day – Gadsar campsite, via Gadsar pass (13,750 feet)
Distance – 14 km, over 10.5 hours
Altitude gained – ascent of 1,750 ft, cross Gadsar pass and descent of 1,750 ft
Lakes visited – Vishansar, Kishansar, Gadsar, other unnamed small lakes

Arguably the toughest day so far on the trek, we needed to cross the Gadsar pass, at an altitude of 13,750 ft and the ascent to get to the pass is extremely steep with the trail wide enough for one person to walk.

But before we get to this tough part, we have the breathtaking views of next lakes in the series, Kishansar lake, which is placed a level above the Vishansar lake, however you get a combined view of both the lakes only after covering more than half of the ascent to the Gadsar pass. The lakes treat you with their visual splendour through out the rest of the ascent. One step at a time, we slowly trudge our way to the top of the pass to be treated to these splendid vies of the twin lakes.

After a break at the pass, we begin the descent to the long valley which houses 2-3 more small unnamed lakes. Next destination – Gadsar lake, which is at the base of another snow clad mountain with multiple streams running down to form the lake. The lakes on this stretch are connected to each other though mild stream. Post a much needed lunch break by the Gadsar lake, we continue our mild descent with our destination set for Gadsar army camp, next to which is our campsite for the day.

This campsite is the closest to the LOC and the army presence is heaviest among all the campsites on this trek. Camping is allowed in a relatively small flat area close to a stream and camps of multiple groups are housed within touching distance of each other. Evening was spent by the stream, followed by some group games and dinner.

Vishansar lake



Kishansar lake bathed in the early morning sun



Nearby peak



Small lake formed by melting snow between the two larger lakes



View while on an ascent to Gadsar pass, combined view of the twin lakes improves by each passing step









And finally the view from Gadsar peak



View of the other side of the pass, trail continues down hill from here



Looking back at Gadsar pass from the other side of the mountain



Streams connecting the lakes













Gadsar lake





Post an hour long break for lunch, descent continues





Campsite for the day

[dk7729]

Day 5:

Destination for the day – Satsar campsite
Distance – 8 km over approx 7 hours

Post the now usual - early wake up – morning chores - pack up – breakfast – warm up exercises, the day’s trek begins with a crossing of the stream next to the campsite, nothing unusual compared to the other crossings earlier in the trek but with a small twist, this crossing is over thick rock sold ice formed over the stream and we get to experience first such walk during the trek. Post this, the ascent is gradual over a long distance, ‘easy’ compared to what we have been through over the past couple of days. The trail hovers just above the tree line with a clear view of the stream and valleys below. The trail also is generally towards the LOC and we were told that the LOC lies about 10km away.

Crossing the stream over the ice sheet, campsite visible towards the left



Another ice sheet formed over the stream







Gradually we reach the point where the trail turns left to leave the river valley, the place from which on a clear day, you get to view Nanga Parbat on the other side of the LOC, the ninth highest mountain in the world. As for us, we waited for a good half hour hoping for the clouds to clear up, but were not lucky enough to get a view of this eight thousander.

This point also marks the farthest point on the trek as from here we begin to re-trace our steps on the other side of the mountain range to reach the closest road head at Naranag over the next 3 days.

Nanga Parbat view point







One unique feature of the trail is dis-appearance of a stream of water underground mid-way through the distance towards the next army camp. We were told that the stream flows underground and merges with the stream on the other side of the mountain range.

The disappearing stream



What follows is a walk along a well laid trail over green meadows till we reach the next army post (Satsar army post).













Post another round of ID checking, small conversations with the brave army men we move on through a path crossing 4-5 lakes (part of Satsar, which means seven lakes – some of the lakes are dried up by this time of the year). These are more of small ponds of water part of larger network of flowing streams.











Lure of hot lunch at the camp pushed us move faster towards the campsite for the day and we were welcomed with a sumptuous serving of khichdi.







We had nothing else planned for the day, so while some members chose to trek a half hour peak to visit a lake, some chose to laze around the campsite.

[dk7729]

Day 6

Destination for the day – Nandkul lake campsite via Zaj pass (13,100 ft)
Distance – 11km over approx 8 hours
Lakes – Nandkul, Gangbal

Day starts with crossing a boulder strewn terrain, more of hopping over boulders than a walk. Advisable to pack the trek poles for this stretch as relying on them for balance can prove dangerous.













Post this section, comes another steep ascent, for one last time during this trek, the ridge line in sight at the start of the ascent is deceptive as it holds back the view of another steep ascent to reach Zaj pass.











All the effort in scaling this top is more than compensated by arguably the best view of the trek - twin lakes Gangbal and Nandkul. On a clear day, one can also see the Harmukh peak and the glacier hanging on the sides of the rocky edges of the mountain.











And finally clouds provide a brief window of opportunity for this view







Nandkul campsite is visible but getting there takes another 3 hours of descent through steep stony trail. Once we crossed the stream, lush green meadows welcome us but the destination by the lake shore is still far away.







One step at a time formula again, short climb, a descent and a stream crossing over a wooden bridge took us to the campsite. Relief of reaching the campsite after a strenuous day is indescribable.

[dk7729]

Day 7

Destination for the day – rest day (much needed), visit Gangbal lake, laze around and do nothing
Distance – hardly anything going by the distance covered over last 6 days

A lazy morning with a short 30 minute trek to the Gangbal lake, the most pristine lakes on the circuit set amidst clouds and surrounded by mountains was a picture of peace. We spent a good 2 hours by the lake to return to the campsite for lunch.

On the other hand, signs of proximity to civilization are apparent on the shore of Nandkul lake as a lot of people trek up from Naranag for a weekend outing and the remnants of their camping in the form of trash is all over the place. Did our bit by collecting a large bag full of trash to be disposed along with the trash from our camp.

Early morning view of the Harmukh peak



Nandkul lake





Stream connecting the two lakes



Serene Gangbal lake









































Our last day in the wild ended with a gathering during dinner where we all shared our respective experiences, high and low points on the trek, followed by a bonfire.

We were also greeted by one thing that was thankfully missing over the last one week – rain. It rained overnight and the experience of rain drops on our tents had an eerie feeling.

[dk7729]

Day 8

Destination for the day – last day of the trek, reach Naranag, drive to Srinagar and treat ourselves with creature comforts (including a much needed shower)
Distance – 15 km over 8.5 hours

A day when toes and knees scream out loud – enough of this. To call this descent a steep one is surely an understatement.

The day begins with a ‘walk in the park’ terrain over lush meadows with a mild descent. Dig into some Maggie at the final Maggie point of the trek and refresh ourselves for an arduous descent of over 3,000 ft over the next 3-4 km distance. Only positive on this stretch is crossing trekkers going in the opposite direction and realising descending here is better than ascending.

The path is strewn with stones of all sizes and the going gets specially tough if you develop even a small niggle in knees or toes.

Civilization in the form of Naranag town is visible through out this stretch, but as in most of the times during a trek, spotting destination is the easiest thing, reaching there is a real test.























Naranag has a few outlets serving hot food for the souls who has just succeeded an endurance test. This is followed by a drive to Srinagar but more importantly, it is also time to call home and inform your are alive. Reached Srinagar and checked in to the house boat by the Nigeen lake and enjoyed creature comforts like a hot shower, dinner being served on a table instead of sitting and passing of food bowls in a common tent that we were now used to. We chose to stay away from the tourist hustle of dal lake and stay in a serene house boat by the less crowded Nigeen lake.

The end of the trek also brought with it a hope to return soon for the spectacular scenery and the sense of peace that Himalayas offer.

[dk7729]

Day 9

Destination for the day – laze around in Srinagar, visit Mughal gardens, shop around for dry fruits and of course a shikara ride in Dal lake.













Day 10:
Time to head back home.

[theMAG]

Mod's note: Thread moved from Assembly Line to Travelogues. Thanks for sharing!

[Thermodynamics]

Nice pics. Thanks for sharing. One of the most beautiful landscapes on planet.

Also not usual to see a pair with like minded interests and fitness levels.

Could you also share information about the trek package. Name of agency, season, cost etc., From the pictures, I guess it should be late July or Aug.

I have been to Kashmir this summer, one of the things I learned is that there are several ad hoc trekking packages that can be availed from many hotels at Sonamarh, Pahalgam, Aru Valley etc., For example, the Tulian lake trek from India hikes can be easily managed by calling any hotel in Pahalgam.

[superbad]

Stunning photos which do justice to the landscape This is definitely in my bucket list now. What's the best season for trekking, keeping in mind manageable cold & less crowds?

[somspaple]

Congratulations on completing the trek! stunning pics!
Had been there few years earlier: one of the most beautiful places that I've visited.
But adventure for us started much earlier we could reach the base camp - we were witness to a firing from not more than few meters and tear gas. Somehow reached the destination. - kudos to our driver.

Here is a pic of one of the last two lakes - this place was a perfect finale to lakes trek.

[Ankoor]

Wow beautiful pictures. Some of them actually remind me of Norway. I mean if I were to mix some of these with my pictures from my trip to Norway in July than it will be very difficult to separate the two.

[FrodoOfTheShire]

Wow! Just Wow! Hats off to you on completing the trek. The photos are just awesome! I could imagine you guys trekking across the landscape like the Fellowship from Lord of the Rings!

[rst89]

You have done a real nice narration of your trekking experience.
I too had done Valley of Flowers and Hemkund Sahib trek way back in 2015 and Kashmir Great trek lakes was my next target. I had collected most of information for the trek by reading numerous blogs who had written experiences like you.
Due to job changes and professional commitments, I have not been able to pursue a big Himalayan trek.

Which trekking agency did you choose for the trek?

Apart from that I also realized that this trek has long walks with two significant ascents and descents. You require good fitness to complete this trek though this is a medium altitude trek.