[Blooming Flower]

Finally, we were up on the main road with the crisscrossing lines of narrow gauge, legendary toy-train. We came across a few of them coming from the opposite side while we were going towards Batasia Loop. Along with the heritage steam locomotive, we spotted diesel one too.





At Batasia Loop also, we had to face the same situation of parking our car. The roadside near the gate was completely full and under compulsion, we had to park our car 500mtr back and walk the distance. We spent some time at the Batasia Park, clicked photos and Alas!, the mighty Kanchenjunga was not visible.

[Blooming Flower]

It was already 2:45 pm and we didn't have lunch. After the heavy breakfast, nobody was complaining either. So we decided we would have a late lunch at Hotel Jagjeet after reaching Mirik.

We reached Jagjeet around 4 pm and ordered the lunch as per the respective choice of food. I knew the very next day we would embark on the journey to Sandakphhu.







Aerial view of Mirik Lake:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSe97UoHhbM

I got in touch with the handful of first-to-reach-civilians to Sandakphu with their own car. Asked for their advice and tips. All was encouraging enough. Although I was going to take the Thar loaded fully, some of them even assured us it would not be much of problem with careful manoeuvre. Indeed, the travelogues by BlackPearl, 1100D and a few others who did Sandakphu multiple times inspired me quite high to take the journey once if possible. That was the time when I was in college level and owning a 4x4 car was an absurd dream. But, seriously, I never knew the dream is going to mature into reality this time itself.

Bhpian SanC, hikersoul along with some other enthusiasts were also on the way to Siliguri from Kolkata and they were supposed to go Sandakphu on the next day of our journey. I was in constant touch with them and asked the finer tidbits about the route as SanC had been there recently.

After the late lunch, it was already evening and we roamed around the lake for some time. My sissy fed the fishes at the lake and she was really very happy wiping out the sorrow of missing red panda. A small fair was going on at the ground adjacent to the Sumendu Lake and we enjoyed it too. We got back to our hotel and decided to call it a day earlier than usual. Next morning, before the sun rises we were to head for Sandakphu.

[Blooming Flower]

The Journey Begins: Target Sandakphu

When we packed the luggage and reached the car parking area it was still pitch dark and foggy. Slowly we started for Manebhanjang and took the shortcut through Simana. The shortcut road is steep and was in really bad shape.
Just after I entered the shortcut road at a slushy area, the Thar stalled abnormally with a yellow light on in the dashboard. It read ‘ENGINE!’; and it was not the generic ‘check engine’ symbol. I stopped the car, switched off the ignition and waited 2 minutes. Again, I started the car, everything was normal. Not a single human being was there at that early morning hour. The first tension suffused all of us at the very beginning. When we reached Manebhanjang check post, the sky just started to turn bright. We stopped there, asked some locals about the routes to be taken and the gate was open. So we begin our climb to Chitre.



The road was tarmac-laid but steep and I didn't have to engage 4H even. Thar was pulling flawlessly with the load. After Chitrey, the road was concrete. Bhpian navsjab informed this while he was on his last trip to Sandakphu. As the sun was up, I started to see downhill traffic. At some steep turns, I encountered some downhill traffic and I had to come standstill. Although the road surface was good Thar was not moving an inch even in the first cog from the standstill . Didn't want to torture the clutch and engaged 4L 2nd. It came alive as soon as I disengaged the clutch without slightest input on the gas pedal.

We first stopped at Tonglu.

There are several bi-furcations of the road at several points, one goes via Nepal another via Bengal. Each point I stopped, I asked someone which one to take. The sun was rising and the magnificent Mt. Kanchenjunga was visible at its full glory. The white clusters of clouds were beneath us and the Thar was posing with its own charisma above them facing the beautiful mountain, basking in the bright, fresh sunlight.

[Blooming Flower]

We started after spending 20 minutes or so and headed for our destination. All were witnessing a mesmerizing drive watching the Mt. Kanchenjunga at its finest glory through the windscreen of the Thar.

We crossed Tumling and Gauribas and scenic Singalila forest. It was bustling with tourist and trekkers. Even the Land Rovers were running overloaded and even saw lottery is going on for boarding of tourists near the lodges to cover the final leg. We saw 2WD Boleros and Sumos are making it up to Tumling. Although, I highly doubt how long their clutches last with the steepness of the road they ply on without low ratio gears. After Gauribas the real thrill started. After Gauribas some of the trekkers we interacted momentarily; they informed, they came up to Gauribas in a car but they opted to trek the rest of the path as the journey in those old Land Rover seemed too much toiling for them given the condition of the road further.

The roads were full of gravel, boulders and quite narrow at some stretches.





At this time, I encountered heavy downhill traffic. Giving a pass to them was difficult at some spots. They were usually giving pass in opposite manner what usually we do in plains, such as each driver should give pass to the oncoming car from his left side. Given the trait of the terrain and deep gorge at the blind side, it was quite good for both the uphill and downhill drivers.

Needless to say, from Gauribas I was full on 4L and 2nd, 3rd cog were doing the uphill job. Inside Singalila forest, very scant sunlight can enter resulting into add-on slush along with loose boulders. Our average speed reduced somewhere between 6 to 10kmph. Finally, at a point, we saw the road got wide all of a sudden and bifurcates sharply at a T-junction. Yes, we reached the holy Kalipokhri lake. We stopped there for a while and some of us had wai-wai noodles. And mentally, I was gearing up for the final few kilometers.

[Blooming Flower]

I have heard countless stories about the insane steepness and nightmarish experience who drove there. But at the same time fun factor of driving on those roads and head-on with real-life off-roading to reach a destination pitted against recreational ones was flowing through my veins. I was a bit anxious and apprehensive too as some early goers to Sandakphu advised me not to try this with full load, i.e. 6 pax on board along with luggage. But, i had no option. I had no room for committing a single miscalculation or wrong judgment.

At some point, just after we were set for the final leg, some oncoming cars were visible at such a distance that reversing for any one of the cars with the worse road condition and gorge on my left side was almost impossible. But unlike other cases of giving a pass, it happened usual like plains, i.e each car was crossing from the respective driver's right side! I pushed to the left as far as I could gauge the width of my Thar measured against the road. But small bushes were at the left side. Being on the driver's seat, that impeded my ability to gauge the exact position of left side tyres. I asked my uncle who was sitting as co-passeneger to get down and watch the position of the tyre. Bang! He just opened the left side door and looked down and saw only white clouds beneath him and barely any room left on the left side of our car to stand even. Later he explained, the front left tyre was half-way out at the edge of the cliff! At this appalling sight, he was caught with momentary 'acrophobia' and felt nauseated. Immediately, I asked my Dad to swap the co-passenger seat, who was sitting at the back bench seat with others. He understood the growing tension among us from the situation. I also felt somehow nervous at that moment. However, with a tight gap of hardly 1cm the cars passed through.

I observed, although the space between two cars seems about 1 ft if seen from the side, the reality says otherwise. At the extreme possible condition, both cars were tilted enough towards each other that the roofs were almost kissing mutually.

After this incident, no doubt my confidence of driving took an obvious dent for the time being. Even, my uncle was so scared he repeatedly suggested that we should take a less wide, old Land Rover for the rest few kilometers. This suggestion was like every bit fun got such blow that the excitement from all of us was ebbing away at rocket-pace. I said asked him to be normal and seat quietly at the back. My dad took over his seat. We were moving cautiously through the rough stretch.

[Blooming Flower]

The final climb began.

Yes, as I assumed the road at last few kilometers was very very steep and at some switchbacks, I had to take two-point turns. Maybe I could have taken those at a single go; but the mental situation along with the sullen facial expression of all inside the car didn't give a green signal for me to exploit my limit at its fullest. I was cautious and reserved enough to navigate through this stretch without much fuss.

After some time, at every switchback, the bawls from backseats was so prominent I started to take it as normal. It seemed as if the Thar is transformed into a revolving merry-go-round and with every crest and trough the same shrill, frightened scream is coming from the occupants.

Anyway, my dad was helping me enough negotiating the final stretch. Still, I felt a need for a good spotter to cope with the heavy downhill traffic encountered during the festive season. Moreover, a spotter could be a good photographer also to click pictures of the Thar with some bold road and the backdrop. Yes, I missed that.

One peculiar thing I observed that the road-surface at several steep switchbacks are laid with concrete to provide good grip for the almost bald tyres of the aging Land Rovers. But there is a caveat. To negotiate those steep turn one must be very very slow and must have ample torque from the power-train. That kind of torque is only available from a low ratio gear. Unfortunately, I know no car to provide low range transfer case possibility with 2WD mode. To be on low ratio one must engage all 4 wheels first. This comes tricky as driving on 4L with good, grippy surface that too with very much differential travel of the front vs rear wheels seems to build up tremendous internal pressure on the moving components of the entire drive-train. I wish the road after Gauribus remains in pristine form so that Only 4x4 cars can make it to the top without creating unnecessary pressure on the moving parts leading to a severe damage to the transfer case and gearbox.

Not only that, the locals were exclaiming, as the roads got better the flow of tourists increased by manifold to this protected area. This certainly results in much-unwanted pollution and brings harm to the reserved biosphere.

One needs either sufficient momentum or huge torque to start from standstill even if the road here, is made of concrete. The first condition holds invalidity given the nature of the terrain. Burning the clutch is not safer, not even an option for me while I have a 4L equipped car. So keeping all the negatives of mechanical aspects, it still proves prudent to be on 4L and the benefits are a lot.

A video of the climb through the last few kms

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nFZdqj0qVA

Finally, we were at the top, in front of Sherpa Chalet lodge. Time was about 9.25am. We spent some time there, clicked photos and by this time cloud started to shroud veil over the mighty range. Yes, we were told by the waiting trekkers that indeed, we saw a small part of the Mt. Everest from there apart from other peaks. But as usual, Mt Kanchenjunga, to me, seems the most beautiful of all peaks I have seen as of now.

People generally come here and stay for at least one day to enjoy the chilly windy night pondering over the white, snow-clad, moonlit Himalaya; and the sunrise view in the next morning expunges all the toils taken to reach here through the treacherous terrain. But we had no option. The paucity of time didn't spare us with that fortune. We had to return by the evening to Mirik.

We met the owner of Shepra Chalet and he also said that the other team from Kolkata is coming to him on the next day. We met two bhpians from Assam who stayed there last night. They informed they were a group of 7 cars. But I found only one Thar and one Gypsy there with LTD sticker. He added, 3 Gurkhas faced starting problem, so couldn't make it to the top and two of them are just returning from Phalut. I also had a wish to go to Phalut, but no way one can do it and return Mirik by evening. We got know the road to Phalut is full of boulders with sharp switchbacks at some places but not as steep as Sandakphu uphill journey. The only basic accommodation at Phalut is The Trekkers' Hut and they informed they enjoyed the night with the warm hospitality of the host there although amenities were a bare minimum.

Some Pictures Taken at Sandakphu

[Blooming Flower]

We could not afford to spend much time there. Although mind was longing to stay we had to naysay it. The two other bhpians were also ready to take their downhill journey and we started together around 10.30am.

I was manoeuvering with utmost caution as I always feel going downhill is more serious work than going uphill. I faced the first switchback which needed the Thar in front of me to negotiate by a 2pt turn although he took the widest possible way through the right edge of the road. I was also no exception. The snail-like curve was such that a single pointer might run the left rear wheel into the ditch at the sharpest spot of the snail-turn, heavily angled and heightened by concrete. Recovering the wheel from there is not only tricky but also can cause much damage to the tyre, wheel and axle assembly.

So, I left no stone unturned to make all the occupants feel relaxed and safe while coming downhill. Deliberately, I was very slow and took the help of 4L 1st gear in those turns so that no untoward commotion crops up inside the car. While I took the uphill journey, not for a single time, I had to slot to 4L 1st, be it the steepest incline. 4L-2nd was churning out enough torque to take on each of them. Slow but steady, we reached Kalipokhri and all the occupants inside the car seemed much happy by this time and the terrified expression got washed up from their face unknowingly.

To treat that with more grandeur, I stopped at Kalipokhri again and everybody was clicking pictures with different poses. Seeing all so elated, I got also revived with new excitement. After spending another half an hour there we started, By this time the weather turned so foggy that barely 10 meters ahead was hardly visible. But unlike the uphill journey, none was so tensed and I was going down slowly without taking any untoward risk. Finally, we reached Tumling and all felt a bit hungry. We stopped at Siddhartha lodge and ordered noodles, soups, and momos collectively. we had some chit chatting with trekkers who enquired about us and as usual, they were also surprised to check the Thar registered in South Bengal. After another half an hour we left for Mirik.

A video of descent from Sandakphu top

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2ysIQjFdCs&t

Some pictures during the downhill journey

Some of the sweetest hairpin bends, way back to Manebhanjang





Posing with a legend



At Kalipokhri























At Tumling

[Blooming Flower]

We reached Manebhanjang around 2:45pm. But we were perturbed by a forest officer and pulled over. He asked me why we opened the gate ourselves early in the morning and went uphill! He said everything is recorded on CCTV. Then I also told him plz extract the footage as I too have footage from the dashcam. Before he could get a grab of the clip I showed him my clips from dashcam and proved him that indeed, we stopped here to inquire about the route, clicked pictures and the gate was open itself. He quickly retracted and politely asked us that we didn't get the ticket for Singalila national forest which is Rs. 100 per head and per vehicle. We readily agreed to pay that and told him there was no intention to skip it if we knew that it needs to be paid at Manebhanjang itself; moreover none was there to stop us at the gate. The officer then co-operated with us a lot. We had some informal chatting and he said within next 3 years the entire road up to Sandakphu top will be converted to a concrete one. Sad indeed! He also informed it is not permitted to go uphill before 7 am. I think when veterans used to explore those places with their cars back in 2012-2013, no such rule existed there.



Anyway, I reached Simana and dad stopped for a smoke. Meanwhile, I called bhpian SanC who along with the team just reached Mirik for their next day journey to Sandakphu. Unfortunately, their stay was a bit far from that ours at Mirik and we could not meet. After reaching Mirik around 4:45 pm we got freshened up quickly and went to the restaurant for supper. It's quite comprehensible that no other discussion took place at the dining table other than the just-finished journey to Sadakphu, the territory of legendary Land Rovers. After, this journey my uncle got so excited about the route that he devoured on all the videos of 'Land Rover 70 years Anniversary' celebrated here with great grandeur a few days back. He even promised to fly down here and take the journey together once again in near future topped up with the much-missed night-stay and Phalut.









Thar Di, as a police van at Mirik

[Blooming Flower]

Next morning, we started after breakfast and went straight to Siliguri. In between, we stopped at tingling viewpoint just after Mirik. Around 10 am, we were in Siliguri town. It was Sunday and we were not subjected to usual Siliguri traffic. We had an early lunch at Kalpataru Pice Hotel and while the ladies went to nearby Hong Kong market. By 11:45 am they were back and we dropped and bid them adieu at Bagdogra Airport.



At Tingling Viewpoint











Bidding adieu at Bagdogra Airport



The rest of the journey, the Thar felt empty without three of them. We 3, I along with my parents cruised at a steady pace. Without refueling breaks, we didn't stop much and headed straight to home. We reached our hometown in 12 hours as Frakka didn't let us down during the return leg.

Thus our short but epic trip to North Bengal ends here. But during this special road-trip, one realization we all had. I have both side facing and comfortable front facing seating set up for my Thar. But sitting face to face and chatting all the way with none sleeping have really some different tastes and at some points, the happiness surpasses and wins over the apparent discomfort; that makes the trip even more memorable to reminisce forever.

Signing off,
Debojyoti

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[gunin]

Very engaging narration complimented by crisp pictures. We missed each other at Sandakphu by a day I believe. The Assam registered Thar and Gypsy you met were the only vehicles out of the 7 (MM550, Bolero, Thar, Gypsy and 3 Gurkhas) which went on further to Phalut. The remaining 5 returned from Sandakphu due to various reasons. I was driving my Bolero and returned as my co-pilot fell sick during the night at Sandakphu. Thanks for sharing!

[DriveTrain]

Wow ,an impromptu trip to Sandakphu and your first one to boot and that too a day trip ! Salute your spirit and courage

Wonderful captures through your lens, brings alive the evergreen beauty of the hills , really enjoyed the read.

[ARAY]

Beautifully compiled thread and meticulously planned trip.
Wonderful pictures as well. Thanks for sharing the experience, keep traveling and sharing such wonderful blogs.

[PapaBravo]

Well written travelogue Debojyoti. Gripping narration as well. The views of Mt K from the Sandakphu route is mesmerizing. I am sure it wouldn't have been easy taking Thar up with 6 people.

Cheers,

Pawan

[Samfromindia]

That's a super comprehensive write up on one of the most adventurous journey one can take in this part of the country. Back home so many people aspire to own a 4x4, participate in off road events and plan that Sandakphu self drive where one can unleash the true potential of their vehicles in real world conditions. Hats off to you for pulling it off successfully with a solo vehicle, loaded with passengers in peak season traffic.

The recent land rover feature beautifully captures the essence of this place and showcases them to a bigger audience. That coupled with travelogues like these will surely promote the 4x4 fraternity and tourism of the place.

Rated *****