It has been almost 20 days since we have returned but the excitement of been there done that has not died down. This trip to Ladakh was a long time due and we were all very very excited. The passengers were my family (wife, son and I) and family friends - total 6 (4 adults and 2 kids). We did not have enough leaves for an end-to-end drive. Hence, we decided the following itenary:
- Day 0 & 1: Pune to Leh by flight & Rest at Leh
- Day 2: Leh local sightseeing
- Day 3: Leh to Drass and back to Kargil
- Day 4: Kargil to Leh
- Day 5: Leh to Nubra valley
- Day 6: Nubra valley to Turtuk and back
- Day 7: Nubra valley to Pangong Tso to Leh
- Day 8: Rest Day at Leh
- Day 9: Leh to Tso Moriri
- Day 10: Tso Moriri to Leh
- Day 11: Leh to Pune by flight
Since there are innumerable travelogues covering a lot of Ladakh, let me skip a few details and focus on the photography related preparations for this trip. Since I have not done a lot landscape photography, I wanted to make this trip a photo-journey and try to capture the best images that I could. This travelogue is also more a photolog than anything else.
Books:- Photographs from the edge by Art Wolfe: I started reading this book without knowing who Art Wolfe is. This book just has photographs clicked by Art on his various trips and provides an insight into the composition techniques he used to bring the photograph up to the mark where it can be included with other great photos from the artist
- Waiting for the light by David Noton: This book had a great start, a great end and everything in between. I learnt the most from this book and David provided invaluable insights into how he manages to capture the most stunning landscape images and the equipment he uses along with right techniques.
- Canon EOS 6D II camera manual: An absolute must read for anyone (for the camera they are carrying)
- Creating HDR photos - The complete guide to High Dynamic Range Photography: This book specializes in creating HDR images. I was not aware of the capabilities of HDR and reading this book surely provides an interesting option for capturing landscape images.
Equipment:
This is the list of equipments I carried for the trip. Almost all of these were procured online.
- Camera: Canon EOS 6D II
- Lenses: Canon EF 24-105 F/4L IS USM II, Canon 70-300 F/4.5-5.6, Sigma 150-600 F/4.5-6.3 DG OS HSM
- Tripod: Benro
- Tripod Head: Gimbal head
- Arca swiss plates (70mm and 150mm)
- Rain and Dust cover for camera and camera bag
- Canon battery for 6D II (extra)
- RS-80N3 remote shutter cord
- Filters: Circular polarizer (Hoya 58mm and 77mm diameter), Snap-on filter set (1,2,3 stop ND filter, 1,2,3 stop graduated ND filter)
- Canon camera bag
- Misc: Camera charger, USB transfer cord, SD cards (64 and 32 GB)
Videos:
I saw a lot of youtube videos, specially around landscape photography and a few from Morten Hilmer for picking the right equipment for the right use along with help on the pros and cons of each option.
Day 0 and 1: Pune to Leh and Rest at Leh
Our flight from Pune was at 1.30 am and we left home at around 11pm. The airport is a 15 min drive from our homes and we reached there in no time. It was 22-May and the election results are supposed to be declared tomorrow. Everyone was talking about their predictions and reasons. Never before have I seen so much security at the airports. We were a bit early and the queue for luggage check-in wasn't huge. After a 30-min wait for the counter to open, we quickly checked-in our luggage and went for security checks. My tripod was asked to be opened. I was asked to either leave the tripod behind or do a check-in. I decided to go for the check-in option. I returned to the check-in counter and saw a huge queue. I requested a few airport personnel from the airline and they kindly allowed me to break the line and check-in my tripod. I was also issued a new boarding pass. I returned to the security check counter and this time the guard found something fishy in my shoe. I was asked to remove the shoes and scan them separately. All this while, my mind was stuck at the tray where I had emptied my camera bag and all its contents - big and small. I was afraid I was definitely going to lose something in the crowd, chaos and the back-and-forth. Luckily, this time I was allowed to go through and spent another 15 minutes arranging the stuff inside the camera bag.
We are a group who loves to drive. As a result, we are also accustomed to carry a lot of stuff that a car can accommodate. When we packed for Ladakh, we had to keep in mind the restrictions that will automatically come because its not a door-to-door drive. Even then, we had a lot of luggage. The flight to Delhi was uneventful. However, we did not realize the distance between two terminals at Delhi was a lot. We reached Delhi at around 3.30 am, and our next flight was at 6am. We looked around and found that a bus takes you around different terminals. We stood in the queue and waited. When the bus finally arrived, it was 4am already and it was filled to the brim. The typical struggle of getting into a crowded bus ensued and finally when the bus started moving, we realized that the ladies had not managed to board this bus. However, all luggage was with us. The bus took us around on the empty Delhi roads (being early morning), and we finally managed to get down at the next terminal. Meanwhile, the ladies had managed to get into the next bus and by the time everyone reached the next terminal, it was 4.45am. We started to move briskly. This time, I did not take a chance and checked-in the tripod as well. I had also removed my shoes before getting into the security check. This time it was a breeze.
The flight to Leh started at 6am and almost all of us fell asleep immediately. We woke up in just a bit, and looked out of the window to see the mighty Himalayas. We had begun our descent. From about 25000 feet, it seemed as though the plane will scrape the top of a mountain. The descent and the braking thereafter was loud and quick. We had finally reached Leh !
After a short drive from the airport, we reached our homestay and fell asleep after breakfast. The entire day was spent either sleeping, watching TV, clicking photographs or playing some board games.
Fantastic view from homestay
This is a leaf of a plant inside the house !
Black-billed Magpie (they seemed to follow us everywhere)
Day 2
The next day was a local sightseeing day. We all woke up early and witnessed our first morning light glory.
Early morning light on Stok-kangri range
We were staying very near to the Shanti Stupa, and hence decided to walk up the hill where the Stupa is. The early morning walk was surreal with breathtaking views of Leh city and Indus river valley.
Fitness enthusiast! I was amazed at how easy this guy had made it look. Running uphill at 11000 ft, this guy managed to make at least 10 rounds up & down hill before I stopped counting.
Glorious sunrise over the Leh city
The beautiful Shanti Stupa
Leh city, Stok-kangri and the majestic views
Peace & tranquility
A monk walks around the Shanti Stupa, stopping after each round at the base of the stairs
A cute dog, with its winter clothing still intact. Almost all animals in Ladakh had the winter fur layer intact so far. They said the winters were long this year
After coming back down the hill, we had some breakfast and started our day long excursion around Leh.
First stop was Hemis monastery.
The bridge which connects Hemis to Leh Manali highway.
With lots of prayer flags and a strong breeze, the fluttering of the prayer flags had produced a nice rhythm, although the tempo was a bit too high. The presence of the flags always provided a nice contrast to the otherwise staple coloured landscape.
Budhha statue at Hemis gompa. The statue itself is at a different height than the entry to the monastery.
Prayer wheels. The wheels should be rotated clockwise as told to us.
Prayer flags at Hemis. The flags are supposed to be put up in such a way that the blue colour flag end is always slightly above the other end. The five colours signify different elements of nature starting with sky, air, fire, water and earth (in that order of the colour)
Hemis village. The Hemis national park famous for sightings of the endangered snow leopard derives its name from the monastery in the village.
A lucky shot. There were so many visitors inside the monastery that I thought it was impossible to get a picture without someone photo-bombing your shot. However, it is now proven that patience pays rich dividends !!
After spending some time within the monastery premises, visiting the nooks and corners of the building, we decided to get going. Lunch was planned to be quick. Wish it was. However, we decided to get into a local eatery on the highway and try the local dishes - thupka, momos, mokthuk. If that wasn't enough, we also tried the chef's capabilities to cook parathas, rice and daal. We had eaten like its the end of the world and this is it!
Ladakh is probably one of the few landscapes that allows a photographer to capture snow and ice, tall mountains, flat desert (sand), river, sunshine, clouds and trees - all very contrasting elements of nature in the same frame. The next stop provided me an opportunity to demonstrate this. Have a look
Thiksey Gompa