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Old 3rd April 2020, 18:08   #1
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Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats

The first time I heard about Rosemala was a few years back. It was a news item mentioning a quaint little village in the Western Ghats near Aryankavu, Kollam, surrounded by forest. It also mentioned that the road to the village was just a jeep track through the forest. I promptly filed it away for future reference, but I had no option to act on it then. I knew the right time would come later.

Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00000.jpg

Come 2019, another news item caught my eye. It was about concrete surfacing of the road to Rosemala nearing completion. So when a reunion drive was planned with one of my best friends, there was not a doubt where we would drive to. I still did not have a jeep, but I did have one of the next best things, a Tata Safari Dicor. We were not sure if the surfacing had completed or if 4 x 2 was sufficient, but we decided to drive there and find out anyway. Hence one fine day at noon, the expedition to Rosemala began.

From Attingal, it is just ~170 km round trip. The route we took was straightforward. Attingal-Alamcode-Kilimanoor-Nilamel-Kadakkal-Thenmala-Aryankavu-Rosemala.

First stop was this beautiful spot between Madathara and Kulathupuzha (GPS: 8.872183, 77.048456). There is a foot bridge over Kulathupuzha River and a sand bank and woods on one side. I always feel like I have arrived at a blissful place.
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00001_edited.jpg

Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00002_edited.jpg

Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00003_edited.jpg

Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00004_edited.jpg

Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00004a_edited.jpg

The heat of February was intolerable and we moved on after spending a few minutes clicking photos.

En route was the saddle dam of Thenmala Reservoir at Pallamvetti. It is a place I have been to many times in the past, but still decided to make a brief stop.
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00005_edited.jpg

What better way to beat the 37 degree heat?
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00006_edited.jpg

The boats were resting as were the crew. We did not want to take a boat trip any way.
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00007_edited.jpg

An earlier boat trip of mine for the interested reader: https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/trave...ml#post4304848 (Photoblog of destinations in & around Trivandrum, Kerala)

Time was catching up with us. We were not sure if there was a cut-off time for entry to Rosemala, along with other uncertainties as outlined earlier. We decided not to stop further and made our move towards Rosemala.
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00008_edited.jpg

Soon we came across an iconic structure, the 13-arched (pathimoonnu kannara) railway bridge along Kollam-Shengottah railway line, 100+ years and still going strong.
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00009_edited.jpg

From Aryankavu junction, one has to take the road to the right. Approximately 10 km is the distance to Rosemala. The road is narrow, there is presence of wildlife including elephants, there are a few KSRTC bus trips and taxi jeeps. So one has to be vigilant and cautious. There is a forest checkpost right at the beginning of the road, but no one stopped us, just nodded us through the open barrier. There are a few houses in the initial stretch, then it just becomes a forest road.
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00010_edited.jpg

After a couple of kilometers, the bitumen road gives way to the newly laid concrete road:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00011_edited.jpg

Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00012_edited.jpg

We came across a dip in the road which clearly becomes a river crossing during monsoon. It also appears to be a watering hole, judging by elephant dung lying around.
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00013_edited.jpg

Safari posing:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00014_edited.jpg

Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00015_edited.jpg

The stream:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00016_edited.jpg

The road was very narrow and very steep at some places:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00017_edited.jpg

Yet at some places, where there are likely river crossings during monsoon, the concrete was used liberally:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00018_edited.jpg

The concrete road ends in front of another check post, again open, no questions asked. The next couple of kilometers were untouched gravel road. The way I saw it then, it was motorable by relativey high GC vehicles without any issues.
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00019_edited.jpg

After that comes the gate to the village, there is a gate and electric fencing, but the gate was open at that time (we are not sure if they close it during the night). This tree makes the landmark:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00020_edited.jpg

Last edited by darklord : 4th April 2020 at 15:01.
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Old 4th April 2020, 20:35   #2
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re: Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats

We had gained some altitude by now:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00021_edited.jpg

We had already decided that we would just visit the watch tower/view point. We had to drive through the entire village to get there. Upon asking around, we were told that it is better to walk to the watch tower from the main road as big vehicles may have some difficulty maneuvering. We parked our car and walked, although a Safari may have done just fine as it turned out later on.
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00021a_edited.jpg

Rubber seems to be a major crop:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00022_edited.jpg

An Oriental Magpie Robin:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00022a_edited.jpg

Hills acting as guardians of the village:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00023_edited.jpg

Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00023a_edited.jpg

A ticket counter of Forest Department under construction:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00024_edited.jpg

The road ends in front of the ticket counter. One has to walk up through a rocky path for about 5 minutes to reach the watch tower:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00024a_edited.jpg

The watch tower, which also doubles up as a wireless repeater station for Forest Department:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00025_edited.jpg

View of Thenmala Dam's reservoir from the tower:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00025a_edited.jpg

Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00026_edited.jpg

Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00027_edited.jpg

Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00028_edited.jpg

Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00029_edited.jpg

Some company. A Green Bee Eater:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00029a_edited.jpg

Red Whiskered Bulbul:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00029b_edited.jpg

Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00029c_edited.jpg

The sun had begun to set by now. The friendly guard invited us to watch the sunset, but he also cautioned that there is a likelihood of elephants entering the road as the sun goes down.
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00030_edited.jpg

We decided not to take the risk and began to walk back to our car:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00031_edited.jpg

We drove back while there was still sun light left:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00036_edited.jpg

The drive was uneventful, except a big Sambar deer dashed across the road, startling us.

We took a break and had a dinner of masala dosas from Kilimanoor before reaching home by 9:30:
Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats-image00036a_edited.jpg

Of note, tourism is still nascent in Rosemala. The facilities are bare minimum and are not really intended for tourists. We saw a couple of hotel/tea shop and a couple of grocery stores and that was that, so one has to account for that before planning a trip there.

The trip did turn out to be a memorable one for a reunion drive. Already planning to visit Rosemala again sometime during the monsoon with a bit more preparation.

Last edited by Aditya : 28th April 2020 at 07:57. Reason: As requested
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Old 5th April 2020, 07:04   #3
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re: Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats

Thread moved from Assembly Line to the Travelogues section. Thank you for sharing!
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Old 5th April 2020, 08:51   #4
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Re: Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats

Thank you, Darklord for sharing that wonderful journey and the fantastic photographs. AS you had earlier did, i have noted this for a looksee when we drive around Kerala, hopefully.
Are there no stay options at all? Government guest houses or Forest Rest Houses (FRH)?

Last edited by vb-saan : 5th April 2020 at 11:26. Reason: Acronym changed
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Old 5th April 2020, 10:51   #5
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Re: Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats

Quote:
Originally Posted by earthian View Post
Are there no stay options at all? Government guest houses or FRHs?
Nothing. Not even a homestay that we noticed. However, now that a good road is there, I would think it is a matter of time before homestay options become available.

Down at Aryankavu and Palaruvi, stay options are available including private, KTDC, and a PWD IB.

Last edited by Sheel : 5th April 2020 at 11:00. Reason: Quoted post edited.
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Old 5th April 2020, 15:55   #6
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Re: Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats

Nice travelogue and photos darklord. Good to know about the new concrete road. From the pics it looks like even sedans can make it to Rosemala now. Before it was a destination only for bikers and jeeps for their off-road trips.
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Old 5th April 2020, 21:29   #7
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Re: Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats

Quote:
Originally Posted by darklord View Post
Nothing. Not even a homestay that we noticed. However, now that a good road is there, I would think it is a matter of time before homestay options become available.

Down at Aryankavu and Palaruvi, stay options are available including private, KTDC, and a PWD IB.
Excellent travelogue. Thanks.

Do you know if there is any restrictions on number of vehicles at a time. Can we go by two wheeler?
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Old 5th April 2020, 21:53   #8
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Re: Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyer View Post
Nice travelogue and photos darklord. Good to know about the new concrete road. From the pics it looks like even sedans can make it to Rosemala now. Before it was a destination only for bikers and jeeps for their off-road trips.
Thanks.

Right now, it seems okay for not too low slung cars. But come monsoon, I see two potential issues. One, the road is, I guess, just about 3 m wide at most places. It would be safe to assume that the shoulders would disappear with a good rain. If a jeep or a bus comes opposite you in a tricky place, one should be prepared to take a hit to the underbody. Two, the unpaved 2 km stretch. I do not think they are permitted to touch it as I read it passes through an important part of the forest. How this stretch holds up after the monsoon is also a question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vasuki View Post
Excellent travelogue. Thanks.

Do you know if there is any restrictions on number of vehicles at a time. Can we go by two wheeler?
Thank you.

As of February, nobody even stopped us at two checkposts, one at the bottom and another at the top. I do not think there is any official order restricting traffic in anyway. If tourist traffic picks up, then it may change. Two wheelers are allowed.
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Old 6th April 2020, 14:45   #9
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Re: Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats

Quote:
Originally Posted by darklord View Post
The first time I heard about Rosemala
I heard it for the first time through your thread! Such content is what makes our forum special. Thanks again for writing about such a hidden gem, that too less than 100 km from the capital city.

The view of the reservoir is just breathtaking.

Regards,
R-Six
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Old 7th April 2020, 10:25   #10
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Re: Expedition Rosemala: A quaint little village in the Western Ghats

I went there almost 4 years back when I had just picked up the Thar. The entire stretch was unpaved and it was somewhat challenging at places with stock road tyres. People were riding around in ct100 and alto's. The local RE dealer used to take customers on group rides to this place. Unlike places in Trivandrum like Ponmudi, Rose mala seems like giving easy access to the forest and that 11 kms stretch was at the time unguarded and a yone could enter this place. The local population is mostly the bow defunct plantation workers who have many stories of hardship. Seeing my Jeep, a local villager and family hitched a ride with us as it was a done thing here with any of the Jeeps going uphill. They thought I was the local priest btw. Good memories and a beautiful place
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