[ninjatalli]

This is a short log of an (un)eventful trip that @tarunactivity and I undertook back in late 2019. Back then it was simple times - the world had lesser hassles to worry about and so did both of us - jobless and on a sabbatical/break for a while. While we'd been meandering in and around Bangalore and nearby locations for quite a while, the itch was there to do a longer trip.

This is an attempt to share an unconventional and crisp log of a biking trip done by two lazy buggers with minimal planning, spur of the moment changes and riding photologs over some awesome locations. The idea is to share more details and content by photos and less by chatter! The photos and the supporting context would be in chronological order in line with how we spent the 12 days.

Thread posts in order

1. The Planning (heh)

2. The Itinerary

3. The Bikes

4. The Food

5. And the Ride

[ninjatalli]

Over a lazy evening (one of many), we played around with the idea of a week long-trip in November, and bounced off quite a few ideas, some of them being
- A biking trip across Sri Lanka
- A cycling trip across Sri Lanka (heavily downvoted by @tarun)
- A biking trip across the Konkan from Bangalore - Gokarna - Goa - Mumbai
- A trip to North East
- A trip to Himachal Pradesh
- A trip to Uttrakhand

Now for reasons unclear we zoomed on to the last two and decided our base location would Delhi (completely forgetting other options like Chandigarh) and from there our escapade would be somewhere in the north. And that's all the itinerary planning we did for the trip. Nothing else. Zilch. Nada.

This was quite unusual for a bunch of bhpians, but surprisingly we were quite at comfort with it. Both of us were on a break (/between jobs) and had sufficent free time to spare. We looked at flight options from Bangalore (&Chennai) to Delhi and found the rates were mostly same across all days and booked return flights spread over ~13 days (fly in on 17th Nov night and return flight on 30th). Tarun had relatives at Delhi so our accomodation at Delhi was sorted.

That gave us exactly 12 days to do whatever we wanted to do! And till we landed in Delhi on 17th night (day 0), we had yet not finalized what/where we were gonna do/go over the next 2 weeks

[ninjatalli]

Till the morning of 18th Nov (till we reached Delhi) we had two generic options on our minds
- Head towards Uttrakhand (Rishikesh, Dehradhun, Jim Corbett National park, and ahead)
- Head towards Himachal Pradesh (Shimla, Manali, Rohtang pass, and ahead)

A few detailed discussions were held with friend(s) and family over lunch and dinner while we picked up the bikes from Karol Baug during the day, and we finally agreed on the suggestion to head towards HP over Uttrakhand; and a makeshift itinerary was made : Bilaspur - Manali - Rohtang Pass - (Aut) - Jalori Pass - Shimla - Amritsar (if possible) - Delhi; with the immediate plan being

Day 1: Chill at Delhi (this decision was made during day 1 evening so kinda obvious)
Day 2: Drive to Bilaspur while passing by Chandigarh (~400 kms)
Day 3: Head to Manali (~175 kms)
Day 4: Plan forward from there

However our relaxed attitude and early snowfall across the mountains ensured we did a more simple route as below


Actual Itinerary
Day 1: Chill@Delhi
Day 2: Delhi - Bilaspur
Day 3: Bilaspur - Manali
Day 4: Chill@Manali
Day 5: Chill@Manali with a short trip to Gulaba viewpoint (Rohtang pass was closed down a few days back due to heavy snowfall)
Day 6: Manali - Jibhi
Day 7: Travel around Tirthan valley
Day 8: Jibhi - Narkanda
Day 9: Narkanda - Dharampur
Day 10: Dharampur - Chandigarh
Day 11: Chill@Chandigarh
Day 12: Chandigarh - Delhi

Most of our halts were at simple homestays/hotels ranging from 3k - 5k inr per day that we practically finalized a day or just a few hours before we reached the location. Honestly for two guys after a long day of riding, as long as the place offered comfortable beds, running hot water and some good grub, we were fine with it!

[ninjatalli]

Our rides - BS4 Himalayan rented from Joga Motors (Karol Baug). Highly highly recommended - the bikes were in perfect condition, and when we returned them with a few scratches and dents, the owner (Ashish) was a gentleman in all manners, nominal charges taken for the repairs


All booted up on Day 2 for the long ride till Bilaspur


The men in full riding gear - we joked how if we didn't had to carry our riding gear on the flights, our combined luggage would have probably fit into two shoulder/laptop bags. Tarun brought his own helmet, I took one from Joga Motors (no charge). The N95 masks were not for Corona but the crop-burning winter smog


First halt - Garam Dharam dhaba near Sonipet where we were floored by the awesome yummy parathas


Somewhere on the highway an hour before we reached Chandigarh where we finally started seeing clear blue skies and fresh air


A little ahead of Aut near one of the massive reservoir/dams near Aut on Day 3


Day 5 - At Gulaba point amidst large crowds primarily due to Rohtang pass being closed a few days ago as it had been snowing heavily causing roadblocks


Day 5 - At Gulaba point, next to a makeshift food truck that benefitted a lot due to the heavy crowds at that location


Somewhere between Manali and Kullu as we headed towards Aut and Jibhi further during the day. The skies were clearing up giving us a spectacular view after a few cloudy days of rain and snow


Day 6 - a few hours away from our destination for the day - a picturesque homestay at Jibhi that looked over the exact valley river that was passing adjacent to this road


As we went exploring across Tirthan valley, one of the many points where we halted and took pics


Same location with the backside view


That warning message is wrong here - those hills were much much further away from what they appeared


At the top of the Great Himalayan National Park, Rohla; or atleast that's how far the roads went. Unfortunately the National park was closed for visitors so all we could do is just drive around


Day 8 - on the way to the peak of Jalori pass. I'm sure we spent more time stopping and taking pictures at every turn than we spent actually on the road riding across the pass


At the top of Jalori pass - the pictures do not do justice to the amazing views we got over the ride


So we had a fall or two during the ride and my bike handle needed a bit of alignment, plus there was some minor issue in Tarun's bike too. We headed to Royal Enfield Chandigarh who's only remedy was to change the parts in discussion. When we asked them to diagnoise the problem atleast to understand it better, apparently they didn't have time to do it. Horrible, horrible experience.

We walked out and asked around a few locals - they pointed towards this guy who's "shop" was just a few streets away. It took him 5 mins to rectify the issues in Tarun's and my bikes, and refused to take any money stating the minimal work done (I still gave him money)

[ninjatalli]

What do you get when you put two foodies on a road trip? Ample focus and decisions made based on food over anything else. Literally each and every decision over the 14 day itinerary was made with a focus on food


Delicious sweet potato based snack just outside Hauz Kaus metro station - I think we just finished his entire stock that night


The road from Delhi to Chandigarh is littered with dhabas and huge posters announcing some of the more popular dhaba's location atleast 10 - 15 kms in advance. We finally decided to go by obvious looks and # of reviews online - this place won that by a mile


The interiors of Garam Dharam dhaba - for a fully veg dhaba, the place had a LOT of reviews. And no wonder as we discovered once the food arrived


Prior to this trip, our exposure to parathas was thin oily parathas with some curd and pickle on the side. So that's what we assumed what was in the cup when to our astonishment, we soon realized was all butter. The curd came in a larger bowl a few minutes later!


The food at HPTDC Bilaspur (Hotel Lakeview) on Day 3 - pretty decent for a government setup


Finally Tarun got some good non-veg options - this was at a riverside restaurant in old town of Manali, next to a bubbly stream that was in full flow. Even though the temperature had gone down (due to the rain/snow overnight), we decided to sit outside to enjoy the gorgeous surroundings.
And I decided to go with some salads, especially after the heavy parathas over the last few days


Same location, different restaurant - some Nepali cusine at a nice restaurant near our hotel


The place was nice and cozy - unfortunately it was off-season so such places across Manali were mostly empty during our stay


A simple rajma + curry + roti meal at a road-side restaurant on the way to Jibhi. Such places were an absolute joy as our expectations were bare minimum and the food generally turned out to be amazingly good (or we were really hungry!)


A delicious new food item that we discoved in Jibhi - "Siddu". Looked like an idli with stuffing, this was one of the best items we had multiple times across the trip in the hills


The Siddu was best had with a mix of spicy and tangy chutney - and it came in both veg and non-veg options (depending on the filling)


Different shop - same item again


Another example of how the best food we had was local food that was being made for the general public. This was just after Jalori pass on the other side, where we saw this basic dhaba-ish setup by the local village folks and several trucks/local bikers having food. We joined in - the food menu was simple - 2 veg and one chicken curry, a daal with unlimited rice and roti being served right off the tava. Price was extremely nominal, and the food extremely yummy!


On the other hand we also had a few examples of how the local food should not be - this place just outside Shimla was a complete let-down


Not only was the food un-necessarily packed in excessive plastic ware, the food was very bland and a complete letdown; especially as we left decent food options instead of this


We decided to take it easy and spend the last two days at Chandigarh with high expectations on the food front. And certainly we weren't disappointed as this place showered us with mouth-watering tandoor parathas. This even beat the Garam Dharam food by a mile

If you were thinking the above were a lot of pictures, well then I must add the disclaimer that these are maybe only half the pictures; other places we were so hungry we didn't even spare a moment to take pictures

[ninjatalli]

And we come to the last aspect of our travel - the actual traveling. While we definitely decided to take it easy, the idea was to head towards any road that seemed interesting and halt where we wanted to. So while we probably missed a lot of options that we could have better explored across the route we took, honestly we really didn't care


The HPTDC hotel at Bilaspur had this massive lake just behind it - all rooms had a balcony with such a beautiful view - better the view as higher the floor you go


However a walk towards the lakefront would take one to this ferry point where these boats ferried people across the shores every day. A pretty sight for sore eyes for sure


The roads from Bilaspur to Manali go through some picturesque and massive hydro reservoirs that have huge boards stating no pictures to be taken. So care was taken we go a little ahead to take these pictures


While we had Rohtang pass on our planned itinerary, the weather gods had a different plan it seems. Heavy snow started a day before we reached Manali and the access to Rohtang pass was closed. As a result the midway Gulaba viewpoint became the tourist hub for everybody in town. We decided just to do a roundabout and take few pictures of the scenery


Random side-routes like these made my day - the road you see on the other side was the national highway from Kullu to Manali. However I had to go across this gorgeous bridge just because I could!


The road from Aut to Jibhi was a single lane twisty road that passed parallel to this stream/river that gurgled on its way


The view on the back belied the heights we came down from - we could hardly believe the snow caps surrounding Manali that we passed by lay behind those mountains


One of the many roads going across Tirthan valley - seemed like every road was carved adjacent to a river across the valley


Same setup - different valley. The ubiqutous HP buses were the only public transport vehicles we saw plying on every road - no matter how wide or narrow the road was


On a bright sunny morning, we decided to go up the road to GHNP, Rohla. Although the National park was closed to visitors, the route certainly didn't disappoint us


This WAS the route up to the national park which was located on the top of the mountain


One of the numerous stops up the climb across Jalori pass




I wish we had spent some time at the top of Jalori pass - maybe have a cuppa and just enjoy the moment. Unfortunately we had stopped too many times while climbing up and hence didn't really think twice before passing this point


Somewhere on the way to Narkanda - the locales had changed drastically with minimal flora as compared to the deep/dark forests we had left behind at Jibhi


Our last minute decision to halt at Narkanda later in the evening at a basic hotel right on the highway wasn't that bad a decision. Early morning we realized we had a beautiful view of the valley from our balcony


Epilogue
The last day of our 12 day biking trip was spent at Chandigarh, with us enjoying the local food options and just going around the city. Later as we neared Delhi, we soon realized how far away we had moved from (and forgotten) the polluted airs of Delhi. Thankfully we didn't have to spend more than a night in the city as our flights were scheduled the next day morning. We hardly realized how swiftly the ~2 weeks had passed by; but we had just barely scratched the surface of Himachal Pradesh.

So with a self-promise of making another trip by next year (although 2020 turned out a completely different ball game), we moved on to our own destinations - I headed out to Bombay (and a short halt at Goa post that ) while Tarun went back to Bangalore! While Corona has ensured that promise takes some time to be fulfilled, the idea hasn't lost importance. Come 2021 and we are sure to make a trip again to the Himalayas!

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[i@M.S.K]

Great pictures, nicely written travelogue.
The way this travelogue is divided in logical sections and not chronological days, is refreshing.
Also can you post your experience of the bikes? Kind of your short review?
Since rented, they must've had odometer running at least in 1000's.
So your review might be analogous to a long term review.
Though this aspect is widely covered in respective threads, any info is always welcome.

[ninjatalli]

Originally Posted by i@M.S.K

Great pictures, nicely written travelogue.
The way this travelogue is divided in logical sections and not chronological days, is refreshing.
Also can you post your experience of the bikes? Kind of your short review?
Since rented, they must've had odometer running at least in 1000's.
So your review might be analogous to a long term review.
Though this aspect is widely covered in respective threads, any info is always welcome.

Thanks for the kind words.

Not sure if you meant the bike in general or the rental experience so I'll expand on both.

We were clear that the rental agency is key for the trip to be good - especially how well they maintain the bikes. There are a bunch of operators around Karol Baug (/Delhi), each with hundreds of online reviews - every one having a mix of good and bad reviews. We finalized with Joga Motors even though we got cheaper quotes from others (from 100 - 400 Rs cheaper per day) because of the level of confidence we got through phone conversations with the owner, Ashish as well as the level of +ve feedback given online by previous renters.

Don't remember all the details exactly, but both the bikes had nearly 10,000 kms on the odometer which was expected. The bikes were less than a year old (we checked the documents). The bike was serviced (or atleast checked and cleaned up by the shop's mechanic) and all fluids/wiring/etc were good to go.

Over the ~1500 kms we rode across the next 12 days, we hardly faced any constraints - except for few minor niggles (my horn would stop working due to a loose wire, and so on). Over the last 6 days, there was a gradually increasing rattle/noise coming from my bike engine/chain which although wasn't a deal breaker, but kinda created a bit of tension. But both the bikes lasted well throughout the trip, no matter whatever we threw at it.

As for the bike model itself, we were clear on the choice of bike - it had to be Himalayan and BS4 version basis feedback from other bhpians. However once we took to the mountains, my respect for the Himalayan went up quite a notch. Compared to my Interceptor 650, the suspension of the Himalayan is far far better - over any kind of road/trail. On power output, the bike lets you down - you wish you had the 6th gear and the ability to push to 3 digit speeds but the Himalayan is best ridden at 70kmph maximum, even on flat highways.

But overall the bike is the perfect choice when doing such terrains. So much that if Royal Enfield launches a 650 version of the Himalayan, you might see me in line for sure.

[warrioraks]

Great travelogue. Trips which minimize on planning usually maximize on fun
The route from Mandi/Bilaspur is really picturesque. The ride along the stream with really fun to drive well maintained roads. Also, so tempted to see all the food pics. Thanks for sharing. Next time you decide to Hima-chalo, go for Spiti.
I have been itching for a trip, it just got stronger after reading your thread!

[mohansrides]

Wow!! Wow!! Wow!!

You have demonstrated real intent here sir. Many people plan trips and execute them. But few wrote about them; and even fewer make sure to organise their write up keeping in mind readers’ minds. Well done.

The food posts were especially good. Great pictures and mouthwatering descriptions. As a foodie, I am constantly struggling to lose weight. Every time I enter a famous restaurant, my fantasy is to be able to order almost the entire menu just to taste each dish. I even make notes about what I have tried where so that I don’t repeat my selections when I visit again. It is a curse like no other.

Finally, congratulations on finding the right company for your ride. Riding solo is nice. But having someone who shares your experience and understands the finer points of your obsession in planning and execution adds another level of satisfaction.

Himachal is quite a nice place. I do want to get up there and ride. Just a bit leery about renting MCs. Your posts do give me more confidence. Maybe next year. But I have to work on my fitness levels. The lockdown completely degraded that aspect of my life. Just last night I returned from a 650 km ride to Satara, and I feel beyond exhausted.

P. S.

I thought you were a Mumbai guy. If you are in Bangalore, you are spoilt for choice in riding routes.

[dhanushmenon]

Wow. What an inspiring travelogue!
Wonderful snaps too that gets the heart to skip a few beats. Beautiful places without doubt, very nicely and thoroughly covered in the log.

Wishing many many more kilometres on your rubber.

[ninjatalli]

Originally Posted by mohansrides

I thought you were a Mumbai guy. If you are in Bangalore, you are spoilt for choice in riding routes.

Mumbai only. Last year I was based out of Bangalore for a short stint.

[ninjatalli]

Originally Posted by warrioraks

Also, so tempted to see all the food pics. Thanks for sharing. Next time you decide to Hima-chalo, go for Spiti.
I have been itching for a trip, it just got stronger after reading your thread!

Actually Spiti was discussed a few times considering we finally decided to do Himachal over Uttrakhand, but Tarun had already been to Spiti in 2018 so wasn't very 100% on board on going again, although back then he had traveled by car instead.

We still had kept it as an open option but once Rohtang pass was closed to public due to the early snow, that decision was finally taken by Nature than us actually. Now with the Ata tunnel, a trip again to the mountains of HP is definitely on the list.