12th June 2021, 21:45
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| Eastern Munnar | Towards the higher altitudes of Western ghats Western ghats has always got something to offer the nature lover and travel enthusiast. No matter how many times one visits the hills there are always new scenes to cherish. After a long boring year without much travel due to the pandemic and lockdown, we were getting restless and the urge to travel was more than anything. It was April 2021. With a small letdown in corona cases and elections approaching we decided to go on a short vacation. As the summer was harsh in Palakkad and we had only 5 days it was decided to go to our favourite haunt Munnar. But this time, fed up of the relentless summer heat we decided to go to the highest places in Munnar which would even force us to wear winter clothing in peak summer in Kerala.  The planning was done. All bookings were made. The final itinerary looked something like this: Day 1 Palakkad to Munnar via Udumalai Chinnar - Stay at Deshadan resort Pothamedu Day 2 Visit Eravikulam National park and stay at Pampadum Shola National Park Day 3 Visit Vattavada and stay at Rhodo Mansion Day 4 Trek the Meeshapulimala and stay at lower Munnar Day 5 Munnar to Palakkad via Adimali As elections were round the corner, there was a greater demand for government officials for election duty this year due to the pandemic. Due to this there was a constant fear of the travel plans getting cancelled at the last moment. Luckily didn't get any calls till the last moment and the journey went as planned. Day 1 This is a family trip after almost an year. The team consists of myself, wife and 3 year old daughter. We started from Palakkad after having breakfast. The route taken was Pollachi- Udumalpet - Chinnar - Marayoor - Munnar. The route is scenic as usual with the tamarind trees dotting both sides of the road after Pollachi. And as you approach Udumalpet, the wind mills begin to appear. The sight of windmills extending endlessly into the horizon is one to behold. We stopped for lunch at Dindigul Thalappakatti in Udumalpet. Their biryani and starters are worth a try.  As we started crossing Chinnar, the sights of dry rain shadow landscape started appearing.    View from the customary stop at Thoovanam falls view point  The dry landscapes slowly gave way to winding roads through tea estates. Stopped for tea at one of the roadside tea outlets. Refreshed after the tea break we moved on. The first sight of the hills was mesmerising. Jacaranda blooming in full glory.   Reached Munnar by evening. The town was crowded and the pandemic didn't seem to have an effect on the people there. Proceeded to Pothamedu where our stay for the day is booked. The name of the resort is Deshadan and they promote it as the highest resort in Kerala. The Sign board on the narrow road leading to the resort can be easily missed. We went a little ahead and later came back and started the climb to the resort. The road was narrow and steep. There were reviews about difficulty in reaching the resort through that road, but I didn't find it difficult and felt that it was quite manageable in my i20. As we approached the resort a Malabar Whistling thrush perched on the resort name board welcomed us. As mentioned in the reviews this resort is indeed a bird watcher's paradise. The rooms were neat and well maintained. The view from the room was beautiful.   Later in the evening spent some time at their play area. Dinner was delicious and we called it a day. Day 2 As expected early morning was fabulous with chirping of birds all around. A beautiful Nilgiri flycatcher came to greet me in the balcony. It was quite cold and required light winter clothing. I took out my camera and went for a stroll along the narrow road leading to the resort. Bird activity was good and could hear a lot of forest birds including the Nilgiri Wood Pigeon. A pair of common Rose finches were feasting on berries along the road side. Light was not that conducive to click some good photos. By the time I came back wifey and daughter were already awake and we decided to climb up to the view point in the resort. There were steps provided and it was a short climb. After complimentary breakfast we bid adieu to Deshadan and started our day's journey. Even though I had booked tickets for Eravikulam online we were in two minds whether to go to Eravikulam or not as we have been there before and we knew how crowded it can be especially on holidays. Eravikulam had just reopened after being shut down for the past couple of months due to breeding season of Nilgiri Tahr. There were reports in news papers regarding the new born calves and finally we decided to go there atleast to show the babies to our daughter as she had never seen a Tahr before. The crowd at the National park entrance was lesser than expected. One has to park the car at the parking lot and stand in queue to take tickets. Then again another queue to board the bus which will take the tourists to an end point from where we can walk upto a point where the Tahr could be seen. The queues will usually take a couple of hours to get through but since we had booked online it was smooth sailing and we could just walk over and board the bus by taking a pass from a separate online counter. The bus journey was through scenic roads.  From the drop off point we had to climb right up to the top to see the Nilgiri Tahr. There were quite a few of them on the top grazing in the grasslands. The newborns were also in plenty.       After seeing the Tahr we walked back to the bus pick up spot, hopped on to a return bus and came back to the parking lot. It was afternoon and lunch was on our minds. So we proceeded towards Munnar town. Almost every restaurant in Munnar was over crowded. We couldn't even find any space to park. Finally we managed to find a Marwadi veg restaurant which was comparatively less crowded. The food however was pathetic. Since we had another couple of hours to drive to reach our next destination we consoled ourselves that the dinner would be awesome and moved on. Our next destination was Pampadum Shola National park which is situated nearly 50kms away on the eastern end of Munnar. One has to take the Mattupetty - Top station route to reach there. We had been to Top station earlier but the route ahead was not explored. The road was patchy with quite a few bad stretches. Ride till Top station was uneventful. All the usual tourist destinations enroute were over crowded. After enduring the traffic snarl at top station, we somehow managed to reach the Pampadum Shola NP checkpost. It is one of the smallest National parks in Kerala and was only recently established. The famous 'Escape route' from Munnar to Kodaikanal passes through this park and now a days it is out of bounds for the general public. The road through the park running through thick Shola forests.  The checkpost will be open from 6AM to 6PM. A normal tourist will have to make entry at the checkpost, pass through the park and return within the time limit without stopping enroute. The road through the park passes through pristine Shola forests and grasslands which are home to large herds of Gaur and the elusive Nilgiri Marten which is the star attraction of the park. There are also tall Grandis trees which were planted as part of afforestation drive by the Government. These trees are primarily used for timber and for making paper pulp to produce currency notes.  The road will eventually lead to Vattavada, the organic vegetable hub of Munnar and Koviloor. Beyond that lies Kottakambur which is the last motorable place in this part of Kerala. Accommodation is provided by the Forest department inside Pampadum shola National park. A dormitory type accommodation as well as two log houses and a mud house is on offer. Booking can be done online. I had booked the Bison log house for the night. On showing the booking voucher at the checkpost we were given directions to go ahead by the officer at the checkpost. He briefed me regarding the stay. The accommodation and food provided would be basic. A guide cum cook would accompany us at our place of stay. We crossed the checkpost and entered the forest. The Sholas were dark even during peak sunlight. We reached an open grassland were there are a few buildings built by the Forest Department. We were directed to park the car near one of the buildings which happened to be the dormitory. Our stay for the night could be seen from the parking area. This was the place where we were going to spend our night today.. The bison log house  Wifey didn't had any clue about this and she was totally awestruck by the location. Our cook told that we had to do a light trek of half a kilometre to reach the log house. I arranged for some chicken to be brought from Koviloor for our dinner. Taking bare minimum necessities with us we started our short trek to the log house with the cook leading the way. The trek path took us through dense Shola forests. There was a waterhole on the way. The cook told that it was frequented by elephants, Gaur and occasional tiger. The air was so pure. The climate was cold and was a welcome relief from the sweltering heat back in hometown. Here's a short video of the trek to bison log house At the log house we were totally cutoff from the outside world. The views were breath taking. No mobile network, no television. Surrounded by dense Shola forests. Birds chirping, owls hooting, crickets and frogs screeching. We were one among nature. The feeling has to be experienced once in a lifetime. The log house   View from the log house  Our cook was an old man who was native of Koviloor. As we settled down over a cup of piping hot black coffee, he unfolded his bag of interesting stories. Stories of the "hose komban". The tusker which got a broken hose inserted permanently on its tusk as it was trying to dismantle a water tank somewhere near by. He pointed to the mountain behind the log house where he told was a radio relay station. Forest watchers staying at the radio station high above the hill used to work in batches. Each batch will replace the other every fortnight. Beyond the mountain lies Berijam lake. Beyond this mountain lies Berijam lake and there is a radio station on top of this mountain  As the stories unfolded one by one it started getting dark and we could see herds of Gaur grazing on the grasslands far below. The Sun started setting down and mist started engulfing the grasslands below. Sitting on the balcony sipping a hot cup of Black coffee in the chilly weather and watching the Gaurs graze in silence was real bliss. Meanwhile the occupants of the other log house and mud house had reached and to our surprise it was none other than NA Naseer, the renowned wildlife photographer who was staying next to us. By nightfall it became very cold. The log house is solar powered. Room was basic with solar water heaters provided. Dinner was served with hot Chapathis and spicy tangy Chicken curry which was delicious. All the disappointment of having to settle for a mediocre lunch vanished in thin air. Post dinner we interacted with Naseer and his friends and also our neighbours in the mud house. It was a good interactive session where we shared a few experiences and real life stories. It was indeed a night to remember. The sleep quality was good with blankets provided. Day 3 The morning was cold and the Sun was still sleepy as I slowly got out of the log house. The avian orchestra had already started. I roamed around along the elephant trench with my camera. There we quite a few Nilgiri wood pigeons around and they seldom came and sat down on the balcony. A Nilgiri wood pigeon  There were a group of these guys feasting on berries in the Shola.  The herd of Gaur was still there and they receded into the forest as the first morning rays started falling on the grassland. Breakfast was ethnic with puttu and kadala curry and the leftover chicken curry from the night. After the delicious breakfast I took short strolls into the Shola. Mind and body refreshed, around 10AM we started our trek back to the parking area. The stay was memorable and we had an evening to cherish for a long time to come. We said goodbye to Bison log house and went straight to Vattavada. The place has become highly commercialized these days. There were groups of children mobbing our car and asking for Strawberry farm visit. We politely declined. Vattavada was a small town well known for its organic vegetable farms and step agriculture. The landscape was something like this.  A view of Vattavada town with the step agriculture view in the backdrop. Crowded and noisy, we didn't spend much time there and started to head back to Munnar via Pampadum shola to our next destination - The KFDC floriculture centre Munnar. Continued.. Last edited by i20ian : 19th June 2021 at 19:30. |
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16th June 2021, 21:19
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| re: Eastern Munnar | Towards the higher altitudes of Western ghats As we were approaching Munnar town we made a quick stopover at Kannan Devan's tea outlet and did quick shopping of some local tea and spices. We also bought some Marayoor jaggery for mom and flavoured tea. When in Munnar do check out their tea outlets. The KFDC floriculture centre was on the way. We had to report to the Manager's office situated there. I parked the car and went to enquire about the details. We were told to come an hour later by 2PM. The car could be parked inside their compound. The manager was quite helpful but you need to keep enquiring about each and every detail to get information from him. Only on enquiring I came to know that a jeep need to be booked by us beforehand to take us to KFDC's Rhodo Mansion. Since I was unaware about this the manager helped and assured that a jeep will be ready for picking us up at 2PM. With an hour in hand, we went to have lunch. We were lucky to find a parking spot at 'Alibaba and 41 thieves' restaurant. The name sounds interesting indeed. We had to wait for our turn to get a table. The food was good. The Biryani and starters were tasty. Tummies satisfied we went back to KFDC office. The Silent valley road as it is called was in a terrible state. We laboured to reach the office and parked the car. Our jeep had gone to town to buy some groceries for our night's stay. Our package consisted of a night's stay with breakfast lunch and dinner. Campfire would be provided and Meeshapulimala trek was the main attraction. While we waited for the Jeep to arrive, we spent some time at the floriculture centre. There were a wide variety of flowers and orchids on display and would be a less explored paradise for an anthophile. At 8650ft above MSL, Meeshapulimala happens to be the second highest peak in South India after the Anamudi which is higher by hardly 50feet. It shot to fame with a famous dialogue in Malayalam movie 'Charlie' and since then there has been a steady inflow of trekkers and tourists from a lot of places. Since we wanted to go to the highest reaches of Munnar, it can't get better than this. We were going to stay at KFDC's Rhodo Mansion which was situated at 8000ft above MSL which is quite a height for us folks in South India. The Jeep would take us there through 20 kms of winding roads of which 6kms will be off-road drive. I had done extensive research about the place before doing the booking just to make sure that it would be safe to go there with a 3 year old. April weather would be perfect. The cold is manageable. The weather will be clear and we could get some good views. The trek was medium in nature and would be 7kms in total. There was a Sunrise or sunset view point which is the first stop over point of the trek. The real trek starts after that point. Not even in the wildest of my dreams I ever dreamt of completing the entire trek with my baby. The idea was to enjoy the altitude and place of stay. The cold weather, food and campfire. The off-road jeep drive. Trek upto the sunset point and enjoy the views and provide a sense of closeness with nature to our little one. I was content with that but little did I know at that juncture that God had other plans in store for me. Finally our jeep arrived. We were told by the manager that we could share our ride if we wish with two folks who had also booked rooms at Rhodo Mansion. Since the Jeep was sufficiently spacious with ample seating capacity in middle row, we agreed to share our ride. We were seated in the middle row and they were seated in the front along with the driver. The drive started through beautiful valleys draped with tea estates. There is a base camp of the KFDC which is at a distance of 14kms from Munnar. The off-road drive starts from here. The road until the base camp was smooth. Our driver halted briefly at the base camp. Base camp  Our fellow passengers got out from the front seat. They were wearing masks but suddenly I realised that I had seen that guy somewhere. He too paused for a moment on seeing me. And to my utter disbelief it was my college- mate Ramesh and his cousin Srinivas who were our co-travellers. We hadn't met after college and it's been nearly 13 years but the memories were still fresh. What a pleasant surprise indeed!! This meeting turned out to be a turning point for me later on. From there onwards we started discussing and catching up with our lives during the past 13 years. The off-road drive had started but the excitement of the drive got subdued in this unexpected meeting. After nearly two hours we reached Rhodo Mansion. We were almost there at the top of South India. Rhodo Mansion    We were at 8000ft above MSL. The highest place of stay in Kerala.  We were greeted by our guide Rajan. We checked into the rooms. The rooms were well maintained and neat with solar water heater and solar power. The weather was cold. We freshened up and went to have tea and snacks from the kitchen. There we met Selvi Chechi. She is quite famous and I already knew her very well through the reviews. She was quite caring especially since we were with a baby. Our driver told us to try and climb up the hill to the sunset point as it was ideal time to view sunset. We didn't give it any second thought and along with Ramesh and Srinivas we three started our climb. The climb was steep but our spirits were sky high. Determined to show sunset to my daughter, I climbed carrying her in my arms all along the steep sections stopping in between to catch a lost breath. As we reached the top it was heavenly. Words can't do justice to what we experienced over there. Here's a small video of the journey to Rhodo mansion and the view of sunset. There was a lonely bench at the top overlooking the valley. The Sun was about to set over a sea of clouds. No matter how many times you click a sunset it doesn't get any better than this. The Meeshapulimala was seen quite far away. Infact we guessed that it was Meeshapulimala. Rhodo Mansion was visible way down below. It was an on top of the world feeling and I could read that from the eyes of my family and friends. We clicked some pictures and decided to go back before it becomes too dark.  Distant lake with Meeshapulimala in the backdrop  Rhodo mansion seen from the top       We carefully descended the valley and moved towards the Rhodo Mansion. I carried my daughter all along as we had to be back quickly before dark. As we approached Rhodo Mansion we saw a few families with young babies trying to start the trek up the hill. We discouraged them as it was already too late and risky. I was amused to see people with such young babies making their way here. The campfire had already begun near the kitchen. The weather was chilly. We were clad in our light winter clothing and we cuddled around the campfire with a cup of hot Black coffee. Ah.. no words!! We discussed our plan for the next day. We learned from our guide that we had to leave early by 6am as it was summer and it can get difficult to trek as the day goes on. I still didn't have any idea about doing the trek. It was a sudden suggestion from Ramesh which turned things around. He suggested me to join with them on the trek and let wifey and baby be at the Mansion along with the other families who had babies with them. To my surprise wifey agreed to the suggestion. She had become well aware of the nature of the trek by now and realised that it would be better to stay back. Suddenly I was going to climb Meeshapulimala. What a turn around indeed! Dinner was sumptuous. Chapathis, Selvi chechi's special spicy firewood cooked chicken curry, Jeera rice and dal. Served with piping hot black coffee. We savoured the delicacies. Selvi Chechi was caring enough to give us hot water in a flask for the baby. And we slept off for the night. Day 4 We woke up early. Got ready and went to the kitchen for some snacks and tea. I was still in two minds whether to go on with the trek or to stay back. After getting green signal from wifey I finally started the trek with Ramesh and Srinivas. Our guide Rajettan told us to go ahead and wait at the Sunrise point and he'll catch up later. We didn't waste any time and reached the sunrise point in no time. The Sun was just appearing from behind a mountain.  But somehow I felt that the sunset was much more brilliant. The trek party consisted of 8 persons and our guide. We 3, a couple from Kollam and a guy with 2 cousins from US. Rajettan was the last to reach Sunrise point. He then showed us the way. We had to descend the valley then again climb 3 hills and finally climb up the Meeshapulimala. Here's a Vlog of the descend. The terrain was beautiful even though the grass had dried up. It would have been even more beautiful post monsoon with the greenery but then the views might not be as clear as you get in summer. There was a stream gushing through the valley. Rhododendron trees with their attractive red flowers were dotting the banks of the stream. The water was ice cold and pristine. We moved ahead after crossing the stream. Again an ascend followed by a descend. We were in a grassland. We waded through knee deep grass. Rajettan was coming behind us and we could hear old Tamil songs being played by him in his mobile as he was walking effortlessly through the trail. Then we started climbing the 3 hills. The views started getting better.        A fresh water stream crossing the trail.  Rhododendron tree   Here's another vlog of this part of the trek. Continued... Last edited by i20ian : 17th June 2021 at 21:09. |
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17th June 2021, 22:11
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| BHPian Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Bangalore/ Pgt
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| re: Eastern Munnar | Towards the higher altitudes of Western ghats We moved on and on thinking that each hill we climbed could be meeshapulimala. We didn't have any clue which one it was. But finally Rajettan told that this is it. We could see Meeshapulimala now. It was just ahead of us and we had to do the steepest part of our trek so far to reach there. We walked along the Rhododendrons. As I didn't have any idea to complete the trek, I didn't do any preparations prior to the trip. The climb was hard but the determination to complete the trek was even harder. Srinivas was a motivation for all of us as he was the leader of the pack all through and by this time he had already reached halfway to the top of the peak. The views were awe inspiring. We reached the final ascend. This is it. Once we climb this hill we are on top of Meeshapulimala. There were beautiful little flowers greeting us on both sides of the trail as if welcoming us to heaven. We stuttered and gasped before we finally made it to the top. Here we were finally. Mission accomplished!! A totally unexpected reward from Mother Nature. Here's a Vlog of the final ascend. Rajettan explained us the places which were seen from the top. The Anayirangal dam, Munnar town, Suryanelli, Udumbanchola all could be seen from the top. The Kolukkumalai tea estate and factory were also to be seen. There is an alternate treacherous risky route through the estate to reach the top. But ever since the Kurangani fire disaster, the FD has closed that route and made it illegal to come through that route. The views have to be relished at least once in a human lifetime. Let the pictures do the talking.    Our guide Rajettan in a pensive mood  Valley of flowers!!     That peak in the backdrop is Manjimala which is 50feet smaller than Meeshapulimala.   That's me on top of Meeshapulimala..        We soaked in the views and fresh air. Meanwhile the extra adventurous Srinivas and guy from Kollam went on to climb Manjimala which could be seen from the top. Rajettan got worried as it was highly dangerous to do that climb as there was no proper trek path and they could get lost in the process. His job will be at stake if anything happens to them over there. They had already gone a long way. He called out loudly and waved at them to come back. Sensing that something was not right they started returning. We waited for them to return and meanwhile we slowly etched in the moment we were living in. We took a different route to return. This was a simpler route without much climbing. Took some snaps with the Rhododendron flowers. The trek back was largely uneventful. We stopped over at a stream crossing and drank water from the stream and filled our bottles.  A pond near Rhodo Mansion  We moved on through grasslands and pine trees and finally reached the Rhodo Mansion. On the way I could spot almost all of the high altitude bird varieties like Black and Orange flycatcher, White bellied sholakili, Nilgiri Pipit and Palani laughing thrush. Something which is expected from such a location. A cute little black and orange flycatcher endemic to the higher altitudes of western ghats.  We took 5 hours totally to complete the trek and return back. Rajettan told that we were pretty fast compared to a lot of other tourists. He also got vocal about the foreigners who would come here, camp overnight and take their bicycles to go to the top of the peak. For general public the place would be closed during monsoon but the foreigners would come exclusively to enjoy the monsoon season. He also told about the magic mushrooms which are another attraction of Rhodo Mansion. He told interesting stories of a Manager of the mansion who consumed these mushrooms. It took him 3 days to recover from the Hangover of it. Unfortunately it was not the right season for us to spot the mushrooms. Wifey and daughter were waiting patiently at our room. They had their breakfast and explored the surroundings of the mansion. I was immensely thankful to my wife for allowing me to go ahead. Without her I couldn't have achieved this feat. One day we all will definitely climb the peak again hopefully. After breakfast we spotted a herd of Nilgiri Tahr grazing around the mansion.  We spent a few hours walking around the mansion among the tall pine trees and clicking some photos. Took some rest and freshened up in our room. By that time Rajettan came knocking at our doors. Lunch was ready. It was a delicious feast. We thanked Selvi Chechi for her hospitality while returning. Our jeep was ready to take us back. With heavy hearts and a SD card full of memories we returned back to civilisation. We came back to the KFDC office and bid adieu to Ramesh and Srinivas. It was an unbelievable rendezvous. For me the trip was already over. I was exhausted both physically and mentally. Since home was another 5 hour drive and expecting to be tired, I had done booking at a resort named Rivulet at Chithirapuram in lower Munnar. We slowly moved on. The resort seemed to be located quite far away from the main road. After a lot of twists and turns we somehow managed to reach the resort by evening and checked into the cottage. Here's an interesting info board at the reception.  The room was facing a river and the environs were serene. Our daughter had a good time at the kids play area while we relaxed after a few tiring days of travel. Dinner was normal and we didn't bother to go out and enjoy the resort facilities. Birds were there even on the menu card.   We slept tight after an adventurous day. The next day we had our return journey. Day 5 Was a lazy morning. To get things going took a stroll around the resort to check out the surroundings. Our cottage  Outside view of the resort  Silent flows the river.  A small check dam at the resort  Elections were just around the corner. We had a lot of police checking at the checkposts while coming through Tamilnadu. So expecting the checking to be further strong, we decided to take the Adimali route through Kerala for our return leg. Moreover the resort was located on the route leading to Adimali which made things easier. The return journey was uneventful. We stopped at Kodakara for lunch. Typical Kerala lunch with Mango pulissery. Finally we reached home by evening. It was a great trip especially after a long dry year. It provided a much needed break from the stressful life amid the pandemic. Overall trip statistics : we covered 600kms over a span of 5 days. Our trusted steed i20 as always gave reliable performance. As I pen down this Tlog, we are in the midst of another lockdown and an unprecedented second wave of the deadly pandemic. This trip would hopefully provide us with the confidence and determination to get over these tough times. Let's hope the times will return to normal soon and we can hit the road as always. Till then keep revvin. Last edited by i20ian : 19th June 2021 at 12:07. |
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20th June 2021, 12:56
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| Team-BHP Support   | Re: Eastern Munnar | Towards the higher altitudes of Western ghats Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues section. Thanks for sharing! Lovely pictures, makes me want to head out to the mountains. Oh wait, I am heading out to the mountains tomorrow morning for a test-drive in a brand new car  . And then on Tuesday in another test-drive car! Will go to our homepage tomorrow  . |
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21st June 2021, 09:21
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21st June 2021, 10:48
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21st June 2021, 11:21
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| Re: Eastern Munnar | Towards the higher altitudes of Western ghats Quote:
 Look forward to reading about your TDs soon! | |
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21st June 2021, 12:22
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21st June 2021, 13:45
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21st June 2021, 15:42
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21st June 2021, 17:24
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| BHPian  | Re: Eastern Munnar | Towards the higher altitudes of Western ghats Quote:
Also brings back fond memories of our stay at KFDC Sky Cottage (Rhodo Mansion and Sky Cottage share the same base camp). | |
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21st June 2021, 17:45
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| Re: Eastern Munnar | Towards the higher altitudes of Western ghats Quote:
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22nd June 2021, 00:36
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24th June 2021, 18:55
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