[Mellow]

Even after residing in Raipur for few years, we could not visit Bastar area of Chattisgarh due to one or another reason. So we were on a look-out for a suitable opportunity.

Suddenly we got a 3 day weekend (28-30 Aug 2021), Monday being the Janmashtami, which was free from other commitments. Also we got one of my friend who agreed to accompany us. Only hitch we faced was in booking our rooms. It was basically because of two reasons-
1. It being a 3-day weekend & people having urge to have an outing after long covid lockdowns & scares.
2. We were looking for rooms on 27th afternoon for stay on 28-29 Aug.
Anyway we got 2 rooms in a reasonably ok hotel.

Trip Program :

Car : Our Dzire model 2020
Group : Me & my friend with wives.

Day 01 (28 Aug 2021)- Raipur- Jagdalpur (visit Chitrakote Fall)
Day 02 (29 Aug 2021)- Jagdalpur (visit caves & Tirathgarh Fall)
Day 03 (30 Aug 2021)- Jagdalpur- Raipur

[Caves could not materialize as these were closed due to monsoon season. So we went to Dantewada to have darshan at Maa Danteshwari Devi]

Route - Raipur to Jagdalpur

Route condition

Naya Raipur to Dhamtary - Highway (NH-30) construction going on. However one side is available for traffic during most of the stretch with many left-right diversions. This portion is being made with continuous casting concrete machine and has very good surface for a concrete highway.

Dhamtary to Kanker - We need to cross Dhamtary town and afterwards its a good highway, starting before Charama to almost upto Kanker with good surface finish (though without divider). There is Makri Dhaba just before Kanker. Its the only point to have a break on RPR-Jagdalpur route and is almost midway. All times we stopped here for a break with Tandoori Paratha's / tandoori rotis . It has washrooms, but not the well kept ones. There is lot of traffic of car travelers to this dhaba.

Makri Dhaba




Kanker to Jagdalpur- We had to cross Kanker town and some bad roads and then come to a ghat section (Keshkal) which rises to good elevation. Road condition is not good but still quite manageable. After this section upto Jagdalpur its a beautiful highway, quite smooth where high speeds can be easily maintained. There is no road divider excepting while crossing towns. Its a beautiful stretch which I have always enjoyed, even during first time in August, while it was raining almost throughout. There are nice dense forests on both sides almost throughout.

Diversion to Chitrakote Fall- There is a right diversion at Besoli (after Kondaghat) which leads to Chitrakote Fall, some 27 kms away, through a narrow 1.5 lane state road passing through many villages. Though narrow and with sharp turns, its a well made one and is easy to drive. Narayanpal Vishnu Temple is on this road just 7-8 kms before the Fall.

Jagdalpur city to Chitrakoot Fall- Its a 2 lane ok road with many villages and light mix traffic (37kms)

Jagdalpur to Dantewada- Once you come out of the town outer limit, highway going to Bijapur (further to Hyderabad) starts. What a smooth well made highway with lot of curves & up-downs among green dense forests!!! It is a delight to drive for some 60 kms till we take a left turn to Dantewada.

Route followed for sightseeing



We were quite disappointed for not able to see limestone Caves during this trip. Our plan to visit Bora Caves, Aaraku Vally during our Bangalore trip also could not fructify. So as soon as we got another 3 day weekend (19-21 Nov' 2021), we lapped it up and planned another trip to Jagdalpur. It was also a sudden program, made just 1 day before and in this trip only me & my wife were the passengers

Repeat Trip to Jagdalpur

Day 01 (19Nov 2021)- Raipur- Narayanpal Vishnu Temple- Chitrakote Fall- Hotel (same hotel)
Day 02 (20Nov 2021)- Hotel- Kutumsar Cave & Kanger Dhara- Raipur
Day 03 ie Sunday was used to have rest after this hectic trip.

Route followed at Jagdalpur (IInd trip)


Now let's start with star attraction of our both trips.

Chitrakote Falls

The Chitrakote Falls is on Indravati River, which originates in Kalahandi district of Odisha in Vindhya Range, forms a fall at Chitrakote and finally flows into Godavari. It is the widest waterfall in India with a free fall of about 30 meters (100 fts). It forms a horseshoe-shaped gorge and during high monsoon, covers the entire stretch of horseshoe from left to right bank, a width of about 300 meters. It is often called 'Niagra Falls of India'.

Water flow conditions vary with the seasons, flow being filled with silt during monsoon season. As We had been there during Aug end & November, difference in flow conditions is visible in pics.

During August end....




We all in a group shot


During November.....


With slow shutter speed


During our second trip, boating below the falls was in operation, which was not there during our August trip due to very heavy flows. Obviously we went for boating. These are manually rowed country boats. Everyone is given a life jackets. There were 5 boatmen rowing it carrying 8-10 tourists. The boats takes a round trip passing through near to falling streams with everyone getting wet by a blast of mist spray. Its mesmeric to see falling stream from so near.

Here we see the boat


Lets go for boating


And here is the Majestic Chitrakote (during somewhat lesser flows)




Fall is frequented by outstation tourists as well as local population from the district. The river and Shiv ji Temple there must also be having religious significance. We had seen local population groups having darshan at the temple. One of my friend who visited the Fall on Shivratri day, told me the place having a local religious-cultural fair with tribal dances & music, though water flows were quite less.





Few points more .....

We had seen lights installed focusing onto the fall, but could not get any information about when, they switch it on. Internet has few night time shots of the fall bathed in light.


Only a row of concertina wire was there as a safety measure. I feel a handrailing too should be provided.


Area does not have good civic amenities / eating places.

There is a Chhattisgarh Tourism resort which also has huts. However these were always found booked during the season.

[Mellow]

Kotumsar Caves

We had a repeat trip to Jagdalpur mainly to visit this cave. It is a limestone cave in Kanger Valley National Park. A vertical fissure in the wall of a hill serves as the main entry for the cave and from there a concrete path has been made upto the end of the cave. The main tunnel of cave is nearly 200 m long with several lateral and downward passages. The cave is subject to flooding during monsoon season and remain closed from 15 June to 31 October. Though there is always some seepage water which makes small pools.

NH-30 after coming out of the city turns left (near to our hotel) towards Sukna.


Some 12 kms from this point, highway enters forest area and after 2-3 kms we reach to forest check-posts for Tirathgarh Falls and Kanger Valley National Park, wherein Kotumsar Caves lie.


On the right Tirathgarh Falls is there, where private vehicles are allowed. On the left KVNP is there, where only Forest department's Gypsy's are allowed.
We had to hire a Gypsy for Rs. 1500 (to seat six persons). They have fixed routes inside the park covering Kotumsar Cave & Kanger Dhara. Its a round trip journey of about 25 kms inside the forest. Before going to the Cave, we get a guide with Torch to accompany us (it is compulsory, cost built in the Gypsy hire charges)

Kanger Valley National Park Gate




Gate of Kotumsar Cave


Way for entering and descending the cave is narrow and we have to bend ourselves a bit to proceed. Its better if we do not carry back-pack, which unfortunately I was carrying. We have to descend about 20-30 feet. There is no lighting inside it. Its pitch dark there except light from torches of guides and tourists. Guide has a torch to show us the way & the cave's important points. Its better if we have our own strong light torch, so that we are free to see caves on our own. Pics can be taken only when the subject is illuminated through some torch lights. Pic quality also suffers.

Some pics which tells about the cave...






We were told by the guide that it used to be an underground " monsoon Nala (drain)" thousands of years back. Flowing water had cut and sort of polished its surfaces. Hanging outgrowth (called Stalactites) were formed due to seepage drops carrying dissolved limestone getting deposited on the ceiling.

The Cave....










In the same forest, Kailash Cave is also there which is considered to be older, but is less popular. It is also covered through Gypsy in a separate tour. I think this cave will prompt us to have our third visit to Jagdalpur

Kanger Dhara

Gypsy will take us to this (comparatively) smaller stream/Fall, located deep inside the forest. Other then a cascading fall, plus points are the journey inside forest and folding rock structures.

Few Pics are ....

Narayanpal Vishnu Mandir

During our second trip we visited this temple besides Indravati river, just about few kms from Chitrakote Falls. It is a 11th century temple, presently maintained by ASI.

Few pics can describe it very well...




There are two stones inside temple having some slokas engraved in Sanskrit. Frankly I do not know the meaning But its clear that this script was alive & kicking during 11th Century.

[Mellow]

Tirathgarh Falls

It is also located in Kanger Valley National Park. Private vehicles are allowed to go near its entrance. Then we have to descend about 200 stairs (handrails are provided) to the bottom of the Fall. There is ample parking and there are parking / entrance tickets.

Tirathgarh Falls is on the river Mungabahar. Here water falls to 300 feet below, over stilted (stair-like) hillside natural structures, resulting in milk foam like water. Because of water falling through stair-like structure, we can wet ourselves under this portion (even in monsoon flows). However other portion has a almost direct fall and is as violent as a 300 feet fall should be. Few pictures will tell the story further....

Here we can wet ourselves




No bathing this side....


Here Fall is in full glory


Let's celebrate the Fall

Maa Danteshwari Mandir

This temple is located in Dantewada, about 80 kms from Jagdalpur city. Its a 14th century temple dedicated to Goddess Danteshwari Devi and is one of the 52 shakti Peethas. Danteshwari Devi is considered and worshipped as Kuldevi of Bastar. Temple is located at the confluence of rivers Shankini and Dhankini.

Danteshwari Devi Mandir

Summary of the trips

Trip- 1
Raipur- Hotel- Chitrakote- Jagdalpur city- Hotel
Hotel- Dantewada- Tirathgarh- Hotel
Hotel- Raipur

Total trip kms = 924 kms + 46 kms loacal at raipur = 970kms
Petrol consumed = 49.3 Liters
Fuel Efficiency = 19.7 Km/L (tankful to tankful basis)

Trip- 2
Raipur- Chitrakote- Hotel
Hotel- Kotumsar cave- Raipur

Total trip kms = 692 kms
Petrol consumed = 33.7 Liters
Fuel Efficiency = 20.5 km/L (tankful to tankful basis)

Thanks for reading this long monologue

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[sachin_cs]

Awesome and informative travelogue once again, thanks for sharing. Even I visited Bastar during Dussera weekend and it was a first drive for me since pandemic started. What I love about the region are the very good roads and lush greenery, makes up for quite relaxing and enjoyable drive. Couldn't help but share few of my clicks-

[abhi_tjet]

Wonderful details and log with beautiful pictures, @mellow. Despite being a ‘Raipurian’, I haven’t been to this place yet. This is on my to-visit list whenever I visit Raipur next.

Thanks for sharing the travelogue.

[CircleOfLife]

Thanks for sharing. Having spent entire childhood in the district and didn't ever get a chance to go back in last 25 years. This travelogue is a blessing in disguise. The photo of me as 2 year old in front of Chitrakote Fall is the one i still show to my younger one. Those days there was hardly any tourism and unspoiled nature at it's best. It's time and era that will not come back but rekindle the desire to go back once a revisit these places once again.

[abhijeetp]

Very informative, thanks for sharing. Refreshed lot of memories for me.
I had seen Chitrakoot and Tirathgarh in August 2004 when my father-in-law was posted at BailaDila near Kirandul and we traveled from Hyderabad. Onward journey was by a very lengthy train journey (Hyderabad-Vishakhapatnam-Bailadila). Return was by bus.
Always thought about visiting Jagdalpur but somehow it never materialized after that. Its really very scenic all around.

[catchjyoti]

Excellent coverage of Bastar. Have visited these places a few times during my school days. The interiors of India is a completely different animal.

[Rangy62]

Hello All
Planning a drive from Bhadrachalam to Raipur in December. Can I get some information on the road conditions and also a good hotel to stay in Raipur.
Thanks

[cool_dube]

Originally Posted by Rangy62

Planning a drive from Bhadrachalam to Raipur in December. Can I get some information on the road conditions and also a good hotel to stay in Raipur.

Guess you'd be going via Sukma - Jagdalpur. If so, I'd be interested in road conditions too, as I might be driving from Hyderabad to Jagdalpur later this year, and am exploring route options.

[Rangy62]

Originally Posted by cool_dube

Guess you'd be going via Sukma - Jagdalpur. If so, I'd be interested in road conditions too, as I might be driving from Hyderabad to Jagdalpur later this year, and am exploring route options.

Hi,
My trip now has been postponed to end of Feb 23 due to work commitments. Will be leaving Blore on 26th early morning and will be traveling to Bhadrachalam. 27th morning after a darshan of Sri Rama will proceed to Raipur for an overnight stay enroute to Varnasi. If you are traveling earlier than that would appreciate a feed back on road conditions.
Regards

[gajadonga]

Did Raipur Chitrakote falls and Dolkal Ganesha Trek last weekend.

Raipur to Chitrakote waterfall.

Raipur to Dhamtari is four laned completely .
Two bridges in between had diversion and was a bliss to drive
Dhamtari to Kanker is a mixed bag with good roads some pot holes rough roads for 3 to 4 kms inbetween .Just before Kanker town a bridge construction work is going on with diversions.
Keshkal ghat is in with mixed bag of potholes and bad roads hair pin bends are quite bad .
Lucky no lorry breakdowns causing traffic jams as I was driving very early morning between 3 am and 4 am.
After this ghat section roads are excellent throughout.
Took a Right turn at Besoli to reach Chitrakote falls .This is a single road but well maintained.
Chitrakote - Barsur excellent single road winding through the jungle.
Barsur - Geedam - Dentewada- Tadkel (and then trek the hill to Dolkal Ganesha) Good roads through out.

From Tadkel to Hyderabad
this route is via Bijapur - Bhopalapatnam - Jaganadhapuram - Warangal - Hyderabad.
Only the Chattisgarh Telangana border for about 10 kms is bad with potholes.