[14000rpm]

Background-

I relocated to Finland back in 2012 to manage my then employers’ business with a Finnish org. This role of mine took me to all possible locations globally but of relevance to this thread are my trips to Norway of which I took one every month till 2016. Trips were always to the western coast around Bergen area and the Islands below it and occasionally to Trondheim too. The Fjords, the Landscapes, the raw beauty were always captivating and I enjoyed driving around the country-side which is pretty much everywhere in fact.

Cut to spring of 2017- the ghost of Md Bin Tughlaq whispered in my ears and we had decided to relocate to US leaving Finland for good after having built a lot of memories. (Shameless plug – visit this thread for more about my Finnish lifelog). How do we reach a crescendo of Memories of Europe?

We definitely needed a Holiday in one of the many of the Mesmerizing parts of Europe before we left to US. We had done Switzerland & Italy many times earlier already and they were ruled out. Frankly Switzerland is nice but quite over-rated. It was not going to be other European cities either just because we are not city-people from a Holiday stand-point. Museums, Historic places, amusement parks etc. don’t charm us as much as nature does.

So, where do we go?

Beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder and to us, Norway is far more beautiful than Switzerland and much less Touristy and that's what we choose as holiday destination.

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It so happened that I had transitioned my then current role to my replacement back in April ’17 while my US visa appointment was in late June ‘17. I therefore had 2 full months of nothingness. The Norwegian trip only got better coz I was worry-free, meeting-free, work-free for the entire trip. The ideal way to go on any holiday. Picked 1.5 weeks just before the US visa appointment and then started the planning.

Norway's Geography is quite long and it takes considerable amount of time to drive North to South and not feasible either since it is quite Arduous. We had a 1.5 yr old Toddler and therefore, one thing we did keep in mind while planning was a hassle free travel keeping her Pee/poo/feed timings in rhythm as at home.

Where all do we go then?
What should be the route?
What mode of Commute?
What about boarding & Lodging?

Different people have had different experiences but to me, hotels in Norway are very expensive and often times with regrettable experiences. Food too is a hit or miss unless one sticks to major cities which was not our plan.

Struck out Flights, Cars, Trains as they all cause disruptions to her schedule.

The only option left in our List -a Motorhome!!





Suddenly it all looked appealing.

• No Hotel check-in/out nonsense- we literally parked wherever we felt like.
• No concern with food- We made food of our choice whenever, wherever.
• We didn’t have to rush from place to place to make it before check-in time at hotel.
• No packing/unpacking everyday..

A 6 passenger Motorhome for 2 adults+ 1 toddler. Felt like taking our apartment around.

#Vanlife

Any more details and I’ll be risking making this a thread about the Motorhome and not Norway. Will cover later in separate post(s).

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The Route


Well, that’s the thing that was fluid. There is too much information out there about where to go and what to do. The Vestland region is filled with stunning mountains, Fjords, beautiful forests, Glaciers, Glacial lakes & Rivers always around the corner with gorgeous views of the photogenic landscape every where you look. After a point of time, it became apparent that the only feasible thing was to choose some Points of interest in Vestland part of Norway along the Tourist Route suggested by Norway tourism and start day 1. Day 2 till return was literally improvised on a daily basis !

In the end, this is the route we ended up with.



For the TLDR folk: I've documented this route and POIs visited in Worldee - a travel planning app.

Use this link.


Note: I'm merely a user of the app and not affiliated with them in any way

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The Prep work

Picked up the campervan from the pick-up location, got trained on the ‘’how-to’s ‘’ and ‘’ what-to-do’s ‘’ about daily usage, water and gas and drove home. Took time to familiarize myself to the dimensions of the van and the power or the lack of it. I mean Serious lack of power although it must feel so due to the weight of all the equipment and furnishing onboard. Nevertheless, it wasn’t too long till it was all ok. It was only the long rear overhang took longer to get used to while parking.

The Campervan had a very big storage space in the rear which meant our packing for the trip had no limits. In went Camping tables, chairs, Grill, Charcoal, bags of clothes, food, bedding, tableware, everything, literally everything till we overdid ourselves. Installed the child seat and we were ready !




Leg 1/day 1 - destination unknown.

To reach the Vestland region of Norway we planned to drive to, we have to go to and cross Sweden and there are 4 ways to reach Sweden from Finland-
1. Helsinki to Stockholm via Ferry
2. Turku to Stockholm via Ferry
3. Vaasa to Umeå via ferry
4. By road via Tornio in Finland.

Given the general direction of where we were headed, the Helsinki-Stockholm ferry was the preferred route. I had booked the Ferry/Cruise on Viking Line carrier for a Cabin and the Campervan.

Planned departure for the 18 hr Cruise was for 5.30pm for which I had to reach at 4.30pm to check-in, load the vehicle in the Car Deck and go upstairs and chill out.

That was the beginning of our Epic Roadtrip !

Did some feature discovery of the Fiat Ducato while in the check-in line.



..and finally drove on to the loading bay.



Departed on-time and sailed past Suomenlinna- a Fortress in Helsinki



All went per plan.
After a sumptuous dinner and ‘flavored water’ at the awesome buffet spread, we pulled out our Wish-list of go-to POI’s. It was about time I figured out which direction I would head out when I drove out at 10.30 am the following day. Amidst all the on-board entertainment and entertaining the little one, we never managed it.

Leg 1/Day 2- Figured out where to go

Woke up to hit the massive buffet spread for breakfast

Waved at the folk going to Helsinki in a passing-by Cruise ship.



...and soon it was time to get to the car Deck and drive out. Reached Stockholm around 10-30am and soon we drove west.





There are many ways to go west but which one did we need to go to? Time for decisions.

Stopped at a rest area which had bathrooms and picnic tables and had some ‘Chai pe Charcha’.




Took out the map and overlayed our must-see list. Picked out the farthest of them all which turned out to be the Atlantic highway near Kristiansund and then hit navigation. The immediate problem became apparent – we were never going to make it within the day. It was just that far plus the fact that we needed lunch breaks in between and then the Toddler breaks per her demands.

Drove on till we got to Grensetjänsten which is the one of the many roads between Norway-Sweden

Pulled into parking in the Norwegian information center..



and called it a day.



Didn’t need planning for the next day since Atlantic highway was still a days drive away.


Leg 1/Day 3-

Freshened up, finished a simple breakfast and hit the road North West and kept driving and soon we entered some beautiful stretches and a lot of campers for company along the way.









Stopped at a Picnic area next to a river, had simple lunch and drove on which eventually ended later in the evening.















Where do we stop and rest for the night?

The best part about the campervan is that toilet, Showers and Kitchen are all on-board. The most common consumption for all these is Water which is obviously stored onboard as Fresh and waste water. Fresh water needs replenishment and waste water needs to be dumped out. There are 2 types of waste water – Grey and Black. Grey water is the water from Kitchen and bathroom sink and shower. Toilet waste, called black water, goes into a separate holding tank which needs some chemical to keep the stuff from stinking.

Now this is where our first learnings came in and more on that later. Black water can’t be disposed everywhere and needs special places. Most camping grounds have the facility and hence we chose to drive to a camping ground nearest to Atlantic highway to rest for the day.

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Leg 1/Day 4- Atlantic Highway...Finally !!

Finally we started our Touristy part of our holiday which until then was only reaching there.

About - The Atlantic Highway, also known as the Atlanterhavsveien, is a scenic coastal road in Norway that stretches across 8.3 kilometers (5.2 miles) connecting a series of small islands and islets. Renowned for its stunning views and architectural marvels, the highway offers a unique driving experience with its dramatic twists and turns, crossing bridges and causeways. It's a popular tourist destination, particularly for those seeking breathtaking coastal landscapes and memorable road trips. The Atlantic Highway provides access to fishing spots, bird watching, and opportunities to enjoy the natural beauty of the Norwegian coastline.

Got to the end of the Atlantic highway and continued driving SSW (south-South West) towards the next destination. By now it goes without saying that we pulled into picnic areas enroute for lunch and drove onwards along lush green meadows, pristine lakes and majestic mountains to Leg2 destination.

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Leg 2- Trollstigen

I thoroughly enjoy Mountain Driving. Having had my share of fun driving up and down Stelvio Pass a few times, it was time to explore something similar in Norway- the Trollstigen. Obviously the gargantuan size of the Motorhome meant there wasn't going to be any spirited driving. It was just adequately fast enough.

About - Trollstigen, located in Norway, is a stunning mountain road famous for its dramatic twists, turns, and breathtaking scenery. The name translates to "Troll's Path" due to the folklore surrounding the area. The road features eleven hairpin bends that navigate through steep mountains, offering spectacular views of waterfalls and rugged landscapes. It's a popular tourist destination and a must-visit spot for anyone exploring Norway's natural beauty.

While we were so smitten by the beauty of the valley, we missed noticing the several hiking paths all along the valley alongside the Glacial river. Found a spot big enough for the Motorhome and stepped out for a small hike by the river.







..and headed back on road to climb uphill while gazing at this beautiful waterfalls called Stigfossen. In fact the road weaves in and around the Stigfossen and is visible several times as one climbs uphill.























The twisties are alluring to Cyclists, Bikers and Sport Cars alike. Truly amazing.





This place is really mesmerising. However, by the time we reached up top, the weather changed and it turned very cloudy.

While the original plan was to spend a few hours here and drive on, thanks to the flexibility we had due to having a Motorhome, we quickly changed plans and stayed back overnight. !!



Woke up to a bright and sunny Trollstigen and hiked around a bit.







..and when it became cloudy again, went to the architecturally beautiful visitor center for some coffee...



..spoke to the local Troll and left towards Leg3.

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Leg 3- Geiranger

Having spent half a day in Trollstigen, we made a quick lunch of Pasta (as it was most of the days ), we started to head towards the next Leg - Geiranger.





Chat up with some British 60 yr old couple who were cycling across Norway. Now I forget their route plan but the very fact that we taking this up at that age was already astonishing.



Took a short hike...





..and drove on and stopped by another river for a quick break demanded by the little one.





and got back on the road again.



and stopped briefly at Gudbrandsjuvet -it is a picturesque and renowned gorge located in Norway, known for its striking natural beauty. Carved by the rushing waters of the Valldøla River, the gorge features towering rock formations and a dramatic waterfall that cascades through the narrow chasm. Gudbrandsjuvet is a popular tourist destination, offering a unique opportunity to experience the raw power of nature in a visually stunning setting.

Didn't spend too much time here though. Did a quick chinese click-click-go.







...needed to reach the ferry point.



Stopped at Ørnesvingen Viewpoint...



...To get a birds eye view of Geirangerfjord.

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Leg 3-Geiranger...Cont'd

This is one of the most popular spots given the ease of access by Road and Water.

Since the fjord is wide enough for ships, there are lots of them that come to Geiranger. Atleast one every day during Tourist season.

About - Geiranger is a picturesque village located in western Norway, renowned for its stunning natural beauty and UNESCO-listed fjord landscapes. Situated at the end of the Geirangerfjord, the village is surrounded by towering mountains, cascading waterfalls like the Seven Sisters and the Bridal Veil, and serene blue waters. Geiranger is a popular tourist destination, attracting visitors with activities such as fjord cruises, hiking, and exploring the surrounding wilderness. Its breathtaking scenery and tranquil ambiance make it a must-visit spot for nature enthusiasts and travelers seeking an unforgettable Norwegian experience.

After a long while, we needed a Camp ground for black water mgmt. and we checked into the Geiranger Camping.



Took a Fjord Cruise to see the several water falls along the fjord. The audio guides tell a lot more about the way of life in the mountains 100s of years ago.

Apparently, Geiranger is under constant threat from landslides from the mountain Åkerneset into the fjord. A collapse would cause a tsunami that could destroy downtown Geiranger. For this reason, sirens have been installed to warn residents if a landslide should occur.

































Walked around Geiranger town. The town itself is quite small but overloaded with tourists. It becomes less crowded only when the ship leaves.





Had a nice dinner in a restaurant, for a change. And stayed at the camp ground for the night.

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Leg 4 - Briksdaalsbreen

Woke up lazily, used the showers at the Camp ground. Felt good to get some elbow room and not hit the walls and doors all the time in the small shower in the motorhome.

Got in the long line of Campers waiting to fill up clean water and empty their black water tanks. This is always a good time to borrow some gyaan from other roadtrippers- added a few more POIs to my list.

After taking care of business, it was time to hit the road to Leg 4 - Briksdaalsbreen.

About - Briksdalsbreen is a stunning glacier located in Norway, known for its breathtaking natural beauty and accessibility. Nestled within the Jostedalsbreen National Park, it's easily accessible from the village of Olden. The glacier is a mesmerizing blend of ice and rock, offering visitors a chance to witness the majestic force of nature up close. Its impressive ice formations and striking blue hues create a picturesque landscape that draws tourists from around the world. Briksdalsbreen is not only a popular destination for hiking and glacier exploration, but it also serves as a reminder of the ongoing changes in our planet's climate and the impact on glaciers.

Another great view of Geirangerfjord from a viewing spot.



and drove around more twisty roads.



and reached the altitude where it is still had considerable amount of snow. The lakes were still frozen too.









While in the line of campers at the camp, somebody told me about another great Fjord viewing spot called Dalsnibba.



This was supposed to be the view on a clear sky day but when we went, it was extremely cloudy with perhaps 20 mtrs visibility. Couldn't see other cars on the road let alone a distant Fjord.



Back on the road again and we continued our way downhill towards Briksdalsbreen.





Views of the Glacial mountains meant we were getting closer as we drove by serene lakes.













..and finally reached Briksdalsbreen.



Most hike uphill but we took one of the Golf carts that was meant to ferry visitors for a price..of course. We took it to go uphill only since I was carry my toddler on a baby carrier. Hiked back downhill though.





















This was our first time seeing a Glacier but more importantly, the effect global warming has on these glaciers are clearly evident in the receding lines.



Spent some time in the Souvenir shop and left towards Leg 5. Enroute, we parked at Boyum camping in Fjaerland for our night stop.


note: Pic from the 'net. credit to original photographer.

This camp site is right next to Norwegian Glacier Museum -a very informative museum but unfortunately, we had to skip it. Till this spot, we had practically improvised our itinerary keeping Atlantic highway as the northern most in our trip and driving south East and slowly towards Stockholm to take the ferry we had already booked. This improvisation meant we were now running short of time to cover a few more stops we added to our route plan till we exit Norway.


note: Pic from the 'net. credit to original photographer.

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Leg 5 - Flåm


As has become the habit, we took a long stroll around the camp ground and the surrounding and left lazily South towards Flåm and stopped at a small town called Sogndalsfjøra for an Espresso which I so longed for. Had it with Nescafe sachets.

Daughter got to stretch her legs. She made friends with another kid of similar age. She had her networking and we had ours with the parents. You learn a lot from the locals as did we in this brief conversation.



Soon it was time to be back on road passing by more rivers along the way.







As we reached the town of Laerdal, we had a decision to make - there are 2 roads going south to Flåm.

Fastest - via Laerdalstunnel. At 24.5 kms, it is the longest road tunnel in the world connecting Laerdal and Aurland and helping with a ferry-free Oslo-Bergen connection.
Prettiest - Aurlandsvegen. The only road connection from Laerdal to Aurland before the tunnel was opened to public. This is also one of the most beautiful roads too.

In fact there is a regular Porsche drive led by a Porsche owning hotel owner from Laerdal.

Check this from Porsche newsroom: https://newsroom.porsche.com/en/2021...way-23964.html

Aurlandsvegen is the route we took. Pretty is better than fast. Also, I wasn't even driving a fast car.

About - Aurlandsvegen and Stegastein

Aurlandsvegen is a picturesque mountain road in Norway, renowned for its stunning scenery and breathtaking views. Also known as the "Snow Road," it connects the towns of Lærdal and Aurland, offering travelers a unique opportunity to experience Norway's natural beauty. One of the highlights along Aurlandsvegen is Stegastein, a dramatic and iconic viewpoint platform that juts out from the mountainside, providing panoramic vistas of the Aurlandsfjord and surrounding landscapes.

Stegastein has become a popular tourist attraction, attracting visitors who are eager to capture the awe-inspiring landscapes and create lasting memories.

passed by some amazing views




Took a short hike to a frozen lake with a waterfall.





And drove through snow cleared roads. At times the snow was up to 1 mtr tall.







Drove through clouds...



Passed by a wedding shoot. Pretty exotic location. Also, these were the only people we ever saw on this long desolate road.



And soon started to descend towards Aurland.



Traffic did slow us down a bit.





And at some point, reached Stegastein - a popular viewpoint to see the Nærøyfjord (Narrow Fjord) which, I'm told, is the narrowest fjord in the world at 250m wide at its widest. Tricky for ships.







Finally reached Flåm.



Parking spot for the night.


pic source: Google map

It was one of the best views we had of the mountains. There is no restrictions on parking and it is somehow self-managed to accommodate everybodys privacy. Hence, this spot had only 2 vehicles max exactly like in the pic.

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About - Flåm, Norway, is a captivating village nestled within the spectacular Norwegian fjords. Located at the end of the Aurlandsfjord, a branch of the renowned Sognefjord, Flåm is a haven for nature lovers and adventurers alike. Its breathtaking landscapes, encompassing majestic mountains, cascading waterfalls, and serene fjord waters, create a picturesque backdrop for a range of outdoor activities such as hiking, kayaking, and biking. The iconic Flåm Railway offers an unforgettable journey through dramatic terrains, while the village's unique cultural experiences, including the Flåm Railway Museum and the Ægir Brewery, add depth to its allure. Flåm's charm transcends seasons, offering a magical destination for exploration and relaxation year-round.

this is a very popular tourist destination since connectivity is quite seamless via Road, Sea and Rail. I reckon almost all cruises that come to Norway stop by at Flåm making this tiny town densely populated for that brief period of time.



As with Geirangerfjord, there are many fjord cruise boats taking one through the Narrow Fjord and past many tiny villages and pretty waterfalls.





















Eventually we got back to town to take a scenic train ride on Flåmsbana to Myrdal which is 867 mtrs above sea level and offer breathtaking views along the way. Flåmsbana is considered to be one of the most beautiful and Steepest railways in the world connecting Bergen, via Myrdal to Flåm.


















Frankly, most of the train riders are on the train to see the waterfalls called Kjofossen.





Here, as passengers disembark on the viewing platform for a short break, a mysterious woman with long hair and a red dress emerges from the forest, dancing to a Norwegian folk song.

She is the Huldra, an elusive forest spirit from Norse mythology. According to local folklore, she lures men into the woods to seduce them.





It is quite a mesmerizing sound and dance show.

https://youtu.be/SSU6NQucC6c

Some choose to come down a hiking trail from Myrdal by walk or bike.



We, like most tourists, choose to take the train ride back to town and hit the road to Laerdal via the longest Road Tunnel in the world - Laerdals tunnel.
at 24.5 kms, it is really really long which means one has to drive in a dark tube for nearly 20-30 mins. Claustrophobic folk will hate to drive in a confined space for this long.



Given that it is so long, A special team of psychologists was engaged in the interior design to help avoid monotony while driving through the tunnel. A lighting system simulating natural light at dawn has been installed in all parts of the tunnel. The main part is illuminated with white light, while the extensions are permeated with blue-yellow lights to give the impression of sunrise.



eventually we reached the camping ground where we had booked ourselves a spot for the night.


Pic source: Google Maps.

Grilled up some chicken for dinner..



..and strolled around the still waters at the end of the Fjord.







As we retired for the day, I recollect a funny conversation whilst on the Fjord Cruise with a travel guide of Indian Origin.

He was with a group of 40 odd travellers who seemed to be from some Tier 2 cities in AP. I overheard one of them say that they have no idea where they are headed to next. Turns out, they had all paid for a 1 week Scandinavia tour of which Finland was one of them. All of Scandinavia in 1 week !! Really ambitious.

I'd been living in Helsinki (still do) but I never saw it with tourist eyes. Out of sheer curiosity, I spoke to this guide-

Me: where all do you plan to take the group to in Helsinki?
Guide (with some amount of Audacity): Senate Square, Sibelius monument and other places.
Me: ok. Nice to know. Have you been there before?
Guide: Yes. I'm an experienced tour guide.
Me: Glad to know. I live in Helsinki but I have no idea what is touristy in the city. Hence I asked. Thanks.
Guide (tone changed to humility within seconds): saar. Really? Can you please tell me where all I can take them?
Me: huh!!??. Aren't you an experienced travel guide?
Guide: Saar, I have been to Germany.
Me: My friend. Germany is not Scandinavia.
As I walked away from him, I saw a whole bunch of tourist brochures he was carrying at quickly concluded that he was nothing but a Brochure flinger masquerading as a Tour guide.

While I did have a good laugh about this episode, I pity the 100's who are paying lakh's to such scamsters everyday.

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Leg 6 - Tvinnefossen and Steindaalsfossen

Last tourist leg for us was a visit to some Picturesque waterfalls that have immense popularity. Starting with Tvinnefossen which, with its Cascading falls, is a beautiful spot for photographers.

About - Tvinnefossen is a picturesque waterfall located in Norway, known for its stunning cascade that drops down a series of rock formations. It's situated near Voss and is surrounded by lush greenery, making it a popular natural attraction.

..and moved on to the next equally beautiful Steindaalsfossen. Yet another photographers delight.

About - Steindaalsfossen is another captivating waterfall in Norway, renowned for its unique split that divides the falling water into two streams. It's found in Norheimsund and offers a captivating sight as the water flows over the rocky ledge, making it a popular spot for nature enthusiasts and photographers.

This was the last of our tourist leg and from here, it was the long drive to Stockholm to board our Ferry back to Helsinki

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For those of you curious about the Motorhome- It is based on a FIAT Ducato Chassis on which Carado, the motorhome/Campervan designer, builds this and several designs in Germany.

Key stats:




Typically I would have gone ahead and elaborated how it is to drive but this is a Motorhome. It is really the function that is important. For maximum use, it is a Breadbox with laughable Aerodynamics. the 140 bhp is certainly laughable but good low end torque makes it reasonably drivable uphill and a decent highway cruiser.

As for function - What I rented was a 6 pax van with -

• 2 double beds- 1 above the drivers cab and 1 in the rear. Another bed can be put together by dropping the dining table and placing backrests as cushions. smart.
• A fully functional Kitchen with diner style dining table
• Integrated Toilet & Shower.
• Refrigerator run on Propane gas.
• Large Garage in the rear.
• Casette style toilet.
• Rear Camera
• Plenty storage spaces with a wardrobe.
• 2 propane tanks for cooking and for cabin heating.

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[carthick1000]

Originally Posted by 14000rpm

For the TLDR folk: I've documented this route and POIs visited in Worldee - a travel planning app.

Use this link.

Note: I'm merely a user of the app and not affiliated with them in any way

The link in your post had a typo. Fixed it in this quoted text above. Thanks for sharing. Will read your travelogue one of these days.