[Travelmania]

Durgapuja is always a getaway for us who need more time to travel due to work pressure. Though we are still mountain worms, we decided to keep a trip to the plains yearly. Last year we went to Agra and Rishikesh. We started our planning a month before the puja bell rang. We decide on our trips together as a family, respecting every member's suggestions. Being a housing complex resident, we organize Durga Puja in our complex, so my family was initially eager to stay back to enjoy puja in Kolkata, more precisely in the complex. So my brother and I decided on some places not visited. When our planning was ready to hit, other team members suddenly changed their plans and opted to join us for the tour. Then I was forced to cancel the previous destination and make a new itinerary.
First, I planned to visit Kolkata-Lucknow- Orchha-Gwalior- Jaipur-Lucknow - Kolkata. The core zone of the Panna tiger reserve was closed, and there was no intimation of the opening date. After some enquiry and phone calls to MP forest department, we found it will open from 1st October. Again we reshuffled the itinerary and deleted Jaipur to add Khajuraho and Panna Tiger Reserve.
Our final itinerary zeroed in as follows:
Day 1 Overnight drive to Lucknow
Day 2 Lucknow to Orchha
Day 3 Orchha to Gwalior
Day 4 Gwalior
Day 5 Gwalior to Khajuraho
Day 6 Khajuraho to Panna
Day 7 Panna to Kolkata
Day 1: On 28.09.22, we started our journey to Lucknow. Due to massive traffic jams in Kolkata, reaching the highway on time was difficult. We planned to start early and catch a pleasant and hygienic food joint near Gopalpur on NH 19 to have food and rest to begin the long overnight drive. On Highway Mirchi, I can say an excellent vegetarian point has neat washrooms with sumptuous dishes.

Highway Mirchi
We were also excited to catch the Purvanchal Expressway at dawn towards Lucknow.
After spending some lazy time, we started our final run to Lucknow at 6.30 pm.

Tea Break at Dhanbad on the way to Lucknow.


We took the usual route to Mohania Toll Plaza. After crossing the toll plaza, I drove for another 5.5 km to catch the Durgawati - Ramgarh road just before Durganti. I'd like to thank DBhpian Samba for guiding me on the route, as he travelled the same way a few months back.
Now, to briefly describe the road to Purvanchal Expressway, the First 20 km is an average road with multiple bumps. The following 30 km (NH 24) is a broad slow road with human traffic by the side of the Ganges. The last 27 km was new surfaced four-lane road from Ghajipur with diversions. We took 1hr 50 mins to reach the Purvanchal entry point. It was around 6 am when we hit Purvhanchal Expressway.

Purvanchol Expressway approach from Ghazipur


Sunrise from Purvanchol Expressway


Few more snaps before proceeding to Lucknow.

After driving a few kilometres, we found a restroom where the washroom service is active without any refreshment possibilities. So we took a break for 40 mins to refresh ourselves and start our next journey to the finishing point.




We reached Lucknow around 10 am. We chose Hotel Golden Tulip for our stay in Lucknow. Though their check-in time was 2 pm, they managed to allow us our accommodation by 11 am. Hospitality is the prime word I can mention here for the reception desk.




We took breakfast instead of waiting for the rooms to get cleaned.Their Chef Mr Subhojit is from West Bengal. His hospitality will be remembered by us forever.

My brother with Subhojit


Breakfast at Golden Tulip
Lucknow is a major stop for many roadies moving towards the North and Northwest.This time we extracted some time to visit The Residency, Lucknow. The British ruins are very well maintained to nourish History. Few snaps can describe it better.





We completed the two mandatory workouts religiously, shopping and Biriyani and kebabs. This time we added a Lassi shop OM SHIV BHANDAR. I found its name on youtube and predecided to include it in our tour. Tasty Lassi with fast serving is the crucial point.



After some shopping, we headed towards Dastar Khwan. This time we went to a different branch of the restaurant.

Our Shopping point




The food was of the same quality as the other one. After our dinner, we called our day a bit early as we had to leave for Orchha the next day.

[Travelmania]

Though we planned to leave early, by 8 am, we got an hour late. To give rest to our stomachs, we skipped breakfast as we started for Orchha. Route taken was Agra Lucknow Expressway- Bundelkhand Expressway- Orai- Orchha. In one sentence, I can say silk route till Orchha. Bundelkhand Expressway is a four-lane track but an excellent road to drive due to less traffic. It took only 5 hours to reach this 420 km distance from Lucknow to Orchha. After travelling 172 km from the start of the Agra Lucknow expressway, we took a left turn to catch Bundelkhand Expressway.



Bundelkhand Expressway entry from ALE


There is a Bharat Petroleum Fuel outlet just before the beginning of the Agra Lucknow expressway. Therefore, fueling the car before entering the expressway is better. We took Hotel Bundelkhand Riverside as our stay in Orchha. Just beside Betwa river. The morning and evening scene is splendid.




Sunrise on Betwa River from resort lawn

https://youtu.be/WSxSiR3_jck

Orchha is the former capital city of the Bundela Maharajas. However, the small town has a definite influence on Indian History, visible from its palaces and temples built in the 16th and 17th centuries. The architectural splendour and art on the monuments in Orchha reflect the glory of its rulers. We visited the fort in the 2nd half, accompanied by a Guide from MP tourism. There is sufficient, safe parking inside the fort.

Our Guide's descriptions took around 3 hours to visit the fort. He took us to the ancient era with stories from History.
Some photographs of the fort in the evening.



Entry Gate





The Jaffri design is of stone but looks like rusted Metal.







Sunset behind Chaturbhuj Temple

Inside view of Chaturbhuj Temple

After completing the fort trail, we went to the Cenotaphs. Built on the banks of the Betwa river, Chattris is a set of majestic royal tombs of the Maharajas, positioned on a platform and backed by pillars. The charm of Chattris best viewed from a bridge on the Betwa river opposite the site. The domes with exquisite paintings add more appeal to Chattris, attracting many tourists.


The Cenatophs view from the bridge on Betwa River




The Cenatophs

There is a Light and Sound display at 6.30 pm. After visiting the fort, we took some refreshments just outside the fort. There are a few excellent refreshment outlets with few varieties.
From 6.30 pm we enjoyed the Light and Sound show.


We called our day without making any late night as we needed to wake up early to visit Ram Raja Temple the next day by 8 am.

Day 3: We woke up early and reached Ram Raja Temple by 7.30 am. The grand peach-tinted building with domes was once the palace of queen Ganesh Kumari, the wife of king Madhukar Shah, the ruler of Orchha. Here Lord Shree Rama is worshipped as a king and offered a guard of honour at 8 am.



Later visited the Chaturbhuj Temple, very near to Ram Raja Temple. Raja Madhukar Shah built it to fulfil the dream of the queen. Lord Vishnu's idol with four hands is why this temple is named 'Chaturbhuj'.

As per our schedule, we left for Gwalior after a late breakfast. Orchha scaled memory in our brains through its courageous Maharajas and stunning architecture from the 15th-16th century.

[Travelmania]

Continued Day 3...

We chose to stay at Tansen Residency in Gwalior, a Madhya Pradesh Tourism property. A star category property with a safe parking place and superb accommodation.

Tansen Residency
After keeping our belongings, we left for Gwalior Fort at 3 pm. There is a parking lot just before entering the fort. We planned to visit the fort first and keep the other places of interest for the next day. It is one of the oldest forts with stunning architecture in India. Colourful designs give a glittering effect on the architecture as essence. Sprawling over a vast space, overview the city from the top. Many dynasties ruled the fort over the years. The main attraction is the Man Mandir Palace, with a few mandirs like Teli ki Temple and Sash Bahu ki Mandir, which we kept for the next day. The Siddhachal caves with rock-cut sculptures are a significant attraction on the way to the fort. We didn't feel the tiredness of a long trail rehearsing the History with the knowledge of the Guide. The MPT guides are very sincere and try to give the most to the tourists.

Gwalior Fort





Rock Cut sculptures on the way to the Gwalior Fort.

We kept this day to start with Jai Vilas Palace. This palace, also known as Jai Vilas Mahal, was built by Maharaja Jayaji Rao Scindia. Today it serves as a residence of descendants of the Royal Maratha Scindia family. A part of the palace is allowed to visitors as a museum. We saw the original sword of Mughal emperors, and the shield of Rani Lakshmi Bai kept as souvenirs.
Covering a floor area of about 75 acres, the Jai Vilas Palace has an intricately designed Durbar Hall. The hall houses some of the world's most colossal chandeliers, sparkling furnishings, and a giant plush carpet. Still, on significant events like cricket matches, the royal family hosts parties in the Durbar Hall to felicitate the talents. One cannot feel the barrier of Belgium glass window panes while viewing the outside area from the palace rooms.

Entrance of Jai Vilas Palace


The Durbar Hall

We

Exclusive Stain glass work on window panes


A full team at Durbar Hall

We went to the fort again in the evening to visit Sash-Bahu Temple or Sahasrabahu Temple Tansen Tomb.

Tansen Tomb

The Main Temple of Sash-Bahu temple


Panoramic view of the small temple
Attachment 2396883

No Electricity but the Sunset light bouncing from stone to illuminate the deity

We rested there for some time, doing justice to the hunger in the cafe at the entrance of Fort Gate. MPT(Madhya Pradesh Tourism) manage the restaurant. It is clean and suitable for fast snacks. The place is cosy and climate controlled. The view of Gwalior city is fascinating from Sash-Bahu Temple.

View of Gwalior City from Fort

View of Gwalior City from Sash Bahu Temple

Day 5: We started for our next destination after breakfast, Khajuraho. Due to late planning, we had to travel 120 km more to cross Orchha again. The road to Khajuraho is a newly built great turf. Can maintain a constant speed due to low traffic. Reached Khajuraho in time and checked in at Payel by Madhya Pradesh Tourism.

MPT Payel

Team with our chariot

Our first goal was to visit Raneh falls, and then if time permits, we will look for the Western group of temples. Things took place in time due to early arrival to Khajuraho.
Raneh Falls is an exquisite waterfall formed by River Ken running over one of the oldest rocks on earth, the Vindhya basalt. The waterfall emerged at the confluence of the Ken and Khudar Rivers. It gives a view of incredible rock formations surrounding the cascading waterfall. After spending quality time enjoying the picture, we departed for our next visit after some snacks and coffee at a shop beside the entry gate. I didn't opt for it but found that shop to serve delicious Alu Paratha to guests. So, without spending more time, we left for Western Temples as scheduled.

The Raneh Falls




Refreshment stop at the entrance of Raney Falls

https://youtu.be/JKbFgiPs-zE

A small video of Raneh Falls

[Travelmania]

Day 5 Continued...

We benefited from the online booking facility to access entry tickets. Lucky to get a learned guide to describe the History of architecture. We were stunned to see the daily routines of the civilization 1000 years back, which was as current as now. Few images can describe it better. After strolling the different Mandirs forming exquisite architecture, we planned to view the Light and Sound show at 7.45 pm.

Laxman Temple


Kandariya Mahadev Temple


Parvati Temple



Though there was one more show at 6.45 pm, we thought to take a break at the famous Raja Cafe with some unique dishes made by them. The way to the restaurant is impressive, climbing through the spiral iron stair. They do appropriate justice to their reputation and variety. The two famous sisters from Calcutta, Betty Bohnenblust and Joy Judah, were the founders of the Raja Cafe. Varieties from Swiss delicacies to Indian food is the primary offering from this restaurant.




After spending an hour, we left for the Light and Sound Show inside the temple premises. Unfortunately, the road towards the lawn from the side gate is under construction, and we had to rely on a mobile torch to find the way. The light and sound show was good enough, but to my right of voting, I would keep Orchha Fort Light and Sound at the top. We were excited at the end of the day to visit Panna Tiger Reserve the next day.


Light and Sound show on Khajuraho Western group of Temples



Day 6: My brother and I woke up early to revisit the Western temples at sunrise to get some snaps of the first light on the temple tops. Unfortunately, due to cloudy weather, we couldn't get the photo we expected and end up with a cup of Cappucino at Raja Cafe.


With the chef of RAJA CAFE

Later, we started lazily after breakfast towards Panna. Panna is only 40 km far from Khajuraho. We booked Tendu Leaves Jungle Resort at Panna. The more I praise will be short of describing the accommodation. Just beside the Ken River is a Luxury accommodation with all modern facilities and comfort. We took a two-storied family cottage with two bedrooms, attached washrooms and a big living room. Some snaps can give a glimpse of the resort.


The Reception of Tendu Leaves Jungle Resort




Our Two storied Family Cottage

The Open terrace overlooking the Ken river

The Deck beside Ken River is the best place for hangout

Ken River

We already booked a ticket from MP forest Online for an evening and morning safari from Madla Gate. The resort management arranged the safari jeep.




The beauty of the dense forest

The forest authority provided a guide for Rs 500 at the entry gate. The resort offers tea and snack in the jeep to have a small break during the safari.

Rajju preparing coffee with refreshments


I must mention the name of Rajju, our jeep driver, for his vast knowledge of the habitats inside the forest. He helped us to find the first sighting after travelling for half n hour in the core area. A massive male Big Cat was taking a rest behind the bushes. He first saw the pug mark and called from the birds and monkeys. Later, many other jeeps arrived, expecting to view the tiger from the front. But the beast was in no mood to walk and cross the road. Finally, the tiger saw us, allowed us to take some snaps, and left for the riverside. Saw lots of Deer, Sambar, and Peacocks with many other habitats in the later part of the safari. We enjoyed the beauty of the Jungle every minute with an unknown expectation to view something new ahead.

The first signal of his presence nearby

The Big Cat sitting idle after Lunch
Attachment 2399605

[Travelmania]

We had a morning safari the following day. The call was fixed for 5 am by the receptionist. However, things changed due to a heavy shower overnight, and we were still determining whether to get the Jungle gate open. So, ignoring the drizzles, my brother and I left for the safari.


The morning look of the Jungle is different from the evening one we saw a day before.



The safari was for 5 hours. The resort management provided the packed breakfast with the driver. It was a day of enjoying the travel through the forest and viewing unexplored points inside the core area. The jeep took us to a deep gorge inside the woods with a fantastic waterfall landing at approximately 70 metres.


Dhundua Falls in the centre of the core zone in Panna Tiger Reserve


Myself with Dhundua Falls as background

https://youtu.be/RebIcFmBsSc

A Small video of Dhundua Falls
As mentioned by the Guide, it is the Vulture's nesting point where 7(species) of vultures are nested. We were lucky to see a Falcon sitting on the top of the branch, searching for prey. The fastest bird on earth is a large one.

Falcon in search of prey from top.
Saw few birds found during the safari



Attachment 2399653

We were allowed to get out of the vehicle to take snaps of the natural beauty. We entered through the Madla Gate and travelled to Hinauta gate. We had our breakfast beside the Ken River, sitting on the jeep carefully not to spill any food or containers on the jungle floor. Our jeep driver tried his best to allow us to view the king of the Jungle once more. To our good luck, while returning towards the entry point, suddenly, we saw a leopard crossing the street and moving fast to the grassland.

Leopard hiding fast into grasslands

I took a few snaps of the beast. As it was very late, Rajju drove quickly to cross the entry gate within the specified time of the authority.
Later came back to the resort to take a short bath and get ready for checkout. Then, after taking some last-minute snaps, we started for our home by 1.30 pm.

The woodpecker was busy beside our cottage


Tea Break between Rewa and Varanasi
At first, our target was to stay at Aurangabad(Bihar) and reach home the next day. However, it was a bit tiring due to less sleep the previous night, but I managed with some rest en route at fuel stations. We reached home safely at 10 am the next day.
Though the tour was compact, my family enjoyed every phase of the journey and comfortable stays as planned in the itinerary. Excellent food and viewing unknown places was the main attraction of the tour.

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[arulpeem]

A lovely write up and photographs. A virtual tour it was and I enjoyed every bit of it. Thanks a lot for sharing.

[scorched_earth]

Very informative as you have shared important details for the ones travelling by road. I am glad you have had a good time with your family. Bundelkhand is a vast area to explore in terms of its natural and cultural wealth.

[haisaikat]

Wonderful family journey account of Bundelkhand. Glad to see the Garnet Red machine in action yet again. We had travelled to Himachal during the last Durga Puja and started from kolkata on 25th Sep but encountered more traffic post Dankuni as compared to within city limits, may be because we started late past 10 pm after our office was over.

I loved your Safari photos including those of the big cat but your jungle stay cottage overlooking the river was probably the best accommodation to my liking. And finally that one photo with their two brothers in umbrella says it all, what enthusiasm everyone have to materialize such travel to their fullest. Also thanks for the informative narration including the location history for us to visualize sitting at the comfort of our homes.

On a different note, I think for Kolkata- Lucknow journey it's better to delay the entry to Purvanchal as late as possible in the route, we understood this during the return where we exited PEW at Sultanpur and the took NH-731 until Varanasi Rong road and then join Nh-19 all the way to Kolkata.

[Strider24]

Beautiful travelogue!, Bundelkhand is my home region where I grew up & studied in cities of Panna, Chhatarpur & in Gwalior, we have had numerous family roadtrips during childhood. Your post has just refreshed my memories of the good times spent there.Yiur pics have captured the beauty of each place.

For anyone visiting in future there are couple of more destinations in this itinerary i would add:

-Dhubela Museum (between Jhansi and Chhatarpur) it Is in a fort which was home to King Chhatrasal once and now houses many antiques from his era

- Panna City is home to many old and beautiful temples of Lord Krishna.

- Pandav falls is just stones throw away from Panna National park. Is home to Ancient caves carved by Pandavas (as name suggests) and a beautiful water fall.

- Diamond Mine ( in Majhgawa). Not sure if it's just a walk-in destination but if possible to get a pass you can see the diamond being mined and full extraction process.

[Travelmania]

Originally Posted by Strider24

Beautiful travelogue!, Bundelkhand is my home region where I grew up & studied in cities of Panna, Chhatarpur & in Gwalior, we have had numerous family roadtrips during childhood. Your post has just refreshed my memories of the good times spent there.Yiur pics have captured the beauty of each place.

Thanks for praising the writeup. Yes this zone of the country is filled with different interest and beauty.

Originally Posted by haisaikat

Wonderful family journey account of Bundelkhand. Glad to see the Garnet Red machine in action yet again.

Yes our Garnet Red is performing seamlessly. Thanks for your kind words

Originally Posted by haisaikat

I loved your Safari photos including those of the big cat but your jungle stay cottage overlooking the river was probably the best accommodation to my liking. And finally that one photo with their two brothers in umbrella says it all, what enthusiasm everyone have to materialize such travel to their fullest.

Its a memory to be cherised.

Originally Posted by scorched_earth

Very informative as you have shared important details for the ones travelling by road. I am glad you have had a good time with your family. Bundelkhand is a vast area to explore in terms of its natural and cultural wealth.

Thanks for going through the TL

Originally Posted by arulpeem

A lovely write up and photographs. A virtual tour it was and I enjoyed every bit of it. Thanks a lot for sharing.

Thank you. Tried to be informative to fellow travellers.

[skdking]

Just back from Khajuraho-Orchha trip.

You are right about Khajuraho. The sights are magical. We stayed at Hotel Chandela for two nights. It was good.

We also did a tour of Raneh Falls—a high point of the trip.

It was Orchha that impressed me the most. The temples there are humungous structures. We go gaga over Taj Mahaaal. I can not even imagine why ASI ignores our heritage. We stayed in Orchha in Riverside Resort. The location is incredible. The hotel itself is about okkk.

[Wanderers]

What is the official website for Khajuraho temple entry ticket booking. I find Yatra is booking tickets for next 7 days.
The light and sound show is under renovation as per the website. Anything better to do in evening?
I have booked at MPT Payal.

[scorched_earth]

Bhai,
Recently visited north Bundelkhand. This was our 3rd attempt, we had to cancel the booking twice.
Visited Orchha-Jhansi-Gwalior-Mitaoli & Padavli-Agra-Fatehpur Sikri-Chanderi via NAG from BLR.

Many thanks for your blog, like ABHI_1512 yours was equally inspiring and informative.
God speed!