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Old 5th January 2023, 12:20   #1
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Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

At Hazolo Village, Vijaynagar:

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We had off-roaded our way to the beautiful Hazolo Village in Vijaynagar on Christmas day and our young guides, much to our embarrassment had guided us to drive inside the village- a no entry sign notwithstanding. The Bolero DI 4wd is not a silent vehicle and having loudly and unwillingly announced our arrival we proceeded to take a walk in the neat and clean village. The GB (Gaon Bura) greeted us and as we were offered water in his house, a Christmas carol in the native Lisu/ Yobin dialect softly emanated from the village church. A warm and happy feeling came over me for no reason and my friend, Reeturaj Yogi later confirmed he had got the goosebumps as well.

Later that day, we would be invited for lunch at the newly opened Gorkha Baptist Church at Two Hut Village where we ate like there would be no tomorrow. When we had planned our trip to Vijaynagar, we were only fixated on the amount of off roading it would require (we did quite a lot of that) and what a lot of fun it would be. However, we were accorded such a warm welcome by everyone we met that we couldn’t help feeling warm, mushy and all the good things inside and the offroading aspect took a slight backseat. This then is a short account of our trip to Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh:

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Where roads are rough

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and smiles aplenty
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Old 5th January 2023, 12:49   #2
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Re: Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

About the place itself:

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Vijaynagar is an unassuming name: I remember many years back I had causally dismissed a friend’s trekking plan to Vijaynagar as if he were going to take a walk in Jayangar, Beltola of Guwahati. So a brief background of the place is necessary here.

Vijaynagar is the remotest circle of Changlang District, Arunachal Pradesh which is really saying a lot. The local name for the place is Daudi. It has a population comprised of the Lisu/ Yobin community and the Assam Rifles Ex-Servicemen from primarily the Gorkha community. A 6-7 days march on foot was required to reach the nearest town of Miao around 160 kms away. This trek is hard and goes through the Namdapha Tiger Reserve. In terms we can relate, we can think about a Class X student appearing for his exams by walking for one week to his centre at Miao. Even a basic item like salt would cost Rs.200/kg at Vijaynagar. This until a few months back was the picture. Now, a motorable road has been carved out and what used to take 6-7 days of hard trekking is doable in 7-8 hours. Four of us decided to try out this new road and I would recommend others planning this route to bring a proper 4wd with 4L on this route at least for next one year.

Planning and Travel Buddies:

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Four people: myself, Bhpians Reeturaj and Chiranjit and my roommate from my MBA days, Hari coming all the way from Chennai. The road to Vijaynagar goes through the Namdapha Tiger Reserve and I booked the Forest Rest House at Deban which ensured that we didn’t need any other permits for entering the Tiger Reserve. Chiranjit used his contacts to book us at the Circuit House, Vijaynagar which due to lack of any mobile network there we could not be sure of till we actually landed up there. We were not worried as we were just four mad men and Reeturaj had brought sleeping bags for all of us. Reeturaj, Hari and I travelled from Guwahati in my Bolero and Chiranjit joined us at Dibrugarh (coming from Itanagar in his blue Polo)

Vehicle:

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My Bolero Lx 4wd. When it comes to tough trips, nothing else will do (for me i.e.)
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Old 5th January 2023, 13:14   #3
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Re: Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

The onward journey: Guwahati to Namdapha

Distance: Nearly 700 kms

Road condition: Pretty good

Hari landed at Guwahati at 7 pm and poor guy was expecting some shut eye at Guwahati. Instead he got an overnight ride in the uncomfortable Bolero all the way to Namdapha Tiger Reserve. Reeturaj and I alternated driving through the night and I must say I enjoyed driving in the dark streets which lent a different point of view to the usual places. Chiranjit started from Itanagar for Dibrugarh as well.

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Tea breaks to keep us alert

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The word is asleep

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Morning


Our meet-up point was at Bhpian Prakritij’s house at Dibrugarh which would be the home for Chiranjit’s Polo for the duration of the trip. Reeturaj and I were a little uneasy of disturbing him so early in the morning and wanted a quick getaway after parking Chiranjit’s car. But of course, Prakritij had other plans and he and his wife prepared a delicious breakfast of parathas and paneer and other dishes for us. Thank you Prakritij. You must know that the breakfast kept us full all the way to Namdapha which we reached late in the evening.

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At Prakrijij's home

Chiranjit, the youngest among us took over driving duty all the way to Deban Forest Rest House, Namdapha. We bought some food items and water at Miao before entering Namdapha. We tanked up the Bolero as well as for the next 160 odd kms and back, there would be no fuel bunk. We entered our details and the entry permit was checked at Mpen Forest Checkgate.

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At Mpen

This was my third visit to Namdapha and it was a pleasure even this time.

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A climb too tall for me.


We were booked at the beautiful Deban FRH and we had the entire ground floor to ourselves. The one thing which I love most about Namdapha is the cooperation and love which the forest officials show to visitors here.

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Noa Dehing River as seen from the FRH premises

I think we had a late evening lunch and then dinner with local/ country chicken. We sat up late and vowed to wake up early next morning. We had been on the road for nearly 24 hours and the moment I hit the bed I slept off. Hari was snoring loudly near me and I thought the sound was not too different from the Bolero DI’s clatter.

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Deban Forest Rest House (FRH), Namdapha
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Old 5th January 2023, 13:52   #4
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Re: Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

Deban to Vijaynagar: The dream comes true

Distance: 131 kms

Time: around 7-8 hours

Road Condition: I recommend a 4wd for the next one year at least. Even then it is remarkable because there was no motorable road even a few months back. People used to do hard trekking of around a week to reach Miao town from Vijaynagar.

The staff at Deban FRH prepared a heavy meal for us in the morning as they knew we would not get any food all the way to Vijaynagar.

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Beautiful lawn of Deban FRH

I took over the steering and dreamt about engaging the small gear lever reading 2H-4H-N-4L on the way. It was not to be though- it had been dry for the past 2 months and even a 2wd would have made it to Vijaynagar that day. I did engage 4L on a couple of occasions just to be safe but it was nothing alarming. We observed that even a small bout of rain would change that quite rapidly and we were proved right on our return journey- more on that later.

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Drive inside a Tiger Reserve

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Onward to Vijaynagar

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A house with Chinese Apples.

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Not to be eaten raw but as a pickle.


We stopped many times just to enjoy the view of the beautiful landscape. Noa Dehing river and the deep jungles of Namdapha made for a very interesting and engaging drive. Just after exiting Deban, we were waved down by the army- they looked at us and said to themselves: “They are party people. (Party ke log he)”. Who knows what that meant but we were allowed to go onward and that’s all that mattered.

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Great views all around

We spotted some wildlife too. Some jungle fowls on the road and a couple of hornbills almost floating by. We passed beautiful villages like Yacheyleh and Gandhigram. People here looked extremely beautiful and happy with a smile on their lips.

We came across a school with an inviting open ground and drove there for a quick photo shoot. Only after reading the school’s name did we realise that we had reached Vijaynagar after all.

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Vijaynagar!

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Time to relax after a long drive

We reached the Circuit House and saw a few people glued to their mobile phones there. It was strange as we did not see any network in any of our BSNL/ Airtel sims. We learned that there is a Government Office nearby which has wi-fi and people go there to get their dose of net connectivity.

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Circuit House, Vijaynagar

We met an officer, Mr. P.P. Singh of the EAC office who confirmed our stay in the Circuit House and that they were expecting us. The cook of the circuit house was initially a little bit miffed at us disturbing his Christmas Eve celebrations but later warmed up to us and made us feel comfortable. The caretaker of the IB, Mr. Sharma also helped us with firewood for bonfire and in general took great care of us. We were treated like some VIPs.

We also met Mr. Medhi, a teacher in the local school hailing from Assam. His first posting, some 3 years ago had been at Vijaynagar and he had plans of trekking to Miao at least once (Choppers are available to Miao for those not inclined to walk 6 days). But those now those plans were put off as the road is now motorable.

We met another gentleman, Dr. Saikia from Assam working at the PHC, Vijaynagar. We are very grateful to all the people for providing such excellent hospitality to us. Right from arranging guides to food and medical care, they ensured we had nothing to worry about.

Power (solar) comes in the evening for around 2 hours and then everything goes dark. It was very cold and Reetu and I, guided by Mr. Sharma, the caretaker bought from firewood for a bonfire from a local’s house.

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Fire for the soul

As we warmed ourselves by the fire, the daily quota of electricity ran out and we were suddenly enveloped in darkness. We stepped outside and witnessed a truly magical scene. Because of the darkness and clear air, we could see the stars so clearly that we felt like we were in a planetarium. We tried our hands at some photography but later gave up and just proceeded to enjoy the starry scene before us.

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Sky full of stars. Blessed.

Dinner was tasty with large portions of rice, dal, sabzi and eggs. We chose to be all lodged in the same room and soon I drifted off to sleep with Hari making cold DI engine noises and Reeturaj warmed up DI engine ones in the background. Chiranjit was texting someone I think.
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Old 5th January 2023, 18:38   #5
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Re: Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

Day 3: Vijaynagar

We woke up to a cold morning and suffered through our morning rituals. A young guy, Karan was assigned to us as our guide for the day. He brought his two friends, Dorjee and Nilu meaning we had seven people in the Bolero for the day resulting in a great ride quality.

The cook had prepared a heavy meal as breakfast for us without us even asking and after eating like pigs, we were all set to explore Vijaynagar.

Now, if 4wd was not required for reaching Vijaynagar, it was definitely required for visiting nearby places. Otherwise what would be a drive of 30 minutes in a 4wd would mean walking for around 3 hours.

Hazolo Village:


We first drove to Hazolo village which I referred to in the beginning. The drive up is tricky with muddy inclines and sharp turns. Reeturaj was happy to engage 4H on this climb. Bolero, with 7 people on board made it look simple.

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Very clean village

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Church

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Christmas decoration

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GB's lawn

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Inside the church

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I generally shy away from taking pictures of people. But he posed and wanted a picture. So I obliged.


We were asked to stay for the Church service and the feast afterwards by the Gaon Bura (GB). However, we decided to leave before the service began (it would be rude to leave in the middle) as we had only the day to see other places.

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Our welcoming hosts at Hazolo Village
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Old 5th January 2023, 19:04   #6
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Re: Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

Day 3 continued.

Two Hut Village, Majgaon and Preet Nagar:

These are Gorkha villages which is the other community of Vijaynagar apart from the Yobins/ Lisus. The first village derives its name from two huts built near the river, Noa Dehing. We did a fairly deep river crossing to reach the village. Reeturaj found it easy to drive the Bolero even though he was off roading in it for the first time. Later on, Chiranjit also cleared some obstacles with ease with me being the spotter.

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Villages are on the other side of the river. If you don't have a 4wd, you will cross this bridge (like I did) and trek further. Bolero crossed this river with no issues.

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Lord Shivji's temple

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A little kid saw us and started running after us. She was too sweet not to take picture of.


We then visited a Buddhist Monastery which unfortunately was locked up that day. This involved a small hike up a hill. Reeturaj and Hari had banked upon my injured knee (injured prior to the trip) and thought (happily) there would be no trekking. But, I was happy to note that the slight trek was actually relieving the pain.

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Reluctant trekkers

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Beautiful houses of Vijaynagar.

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A minor river crossing

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Self sufficient


We drove on further to Preet Nagar Village which has two temples- Jal Mandir and Shiv Mandir. We drove over some pretty tough technical obstacles and Reeturaj crawled in 4 Low 1st as I spotted. We made it to a point where the track simply vanished and we would have to walk further. I always say that given a track wide enough the Bolero 4wd will make it through and back without a fuss and I was proven right here too. This particular place is where a Hydel Project is being constructed. Later on, all the good people of Vijaynagar were genuinely surprised when they learned that we had driven up to that point. Apparently, even the Gypsy doesn’t go till there.

As we had drove quite a long way, our trek to the two temples was reduced to just 45 minutes. Hari and Reeturaj were not very happy walking but my knee was healing and they were in for it. Chiranjit, his usual self was game for anything.

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More walking for my poor friends

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Jal Mandir

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Lovely location


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Majgaon Village

Later, Karan our guide asked us if we would like to visit the Gorkha Baptist Church where we would get lunch. The mention of food charged us up, especially Reeturaj who led the way on the return trek and seemed like a man on a mission (for food).

At the Church, the pastor and local villagers welcomed us and served us one of the tastiest pork and rice meal I have ever had. The pork servings were generous and the leaf steamed rice just disappeared in our stomachs. We also met the O.C. of the Police Station there who invited us to Mugaphi, the highest peak of the region. It would be a trek of 2-3 days one way and one I hopefully would be able to do some day in the future.

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Brand new Gorkha Baptist Church

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Happy campers. Tupula Bhaat (Leaf Rice)


We had such a great time at the Church and village where everyone seemed happy to have us as their guests. It was getting dark slowly and we just sat there and watched the sun go down. Little kids were running around in the wide open spaces with music from somewhere. I realised I had never celebrated Christmas like this before.

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Bolero Lx 4wd

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Lovely evening

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A place where we could be comfortable and just sit. And stare.

Two kids requested for a lift to Vijaynagar and we (9 people) somehow fit inside the Bolero. We still had to cross the river and Chiranjit this time took over the driving duties. No more spotting as it was too cold outside and the Bolero just rumbled through the Noa Dehing river as if it was built to do so. It did take a small hit to the underside but nothing which could not be solved with an iron pipe.

At this point, I must appreciate the Bolero 4wd and the freedom it gives me to travel to difficult places. With any other vehicle, I would not have even planned any such drives. Maybe the Thar (which we saw aplenty) would be equally capable but the Bolero has a more practical aspect to it. I mean crossing a deep river with 9 people onboard with a new driver (to Bolero)- what more can I ask for!

Our guides did not want any money from us but we paid them anyway. I guess in small places, respect is the most precious thing one can offer and that we did and received many times over at Vijaynagar. I made a visit to Dr. Saikia for pulling out a small thorn in my skin gained during the day.

We sat by the fire and just talked of the god times. After a tasty dinner, we slept off as we had a long drive the next day- all the way back to Guwahati. It had started to rain a little as well.
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Old 5th January 2023, 19:30   #7
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Re: Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

Day 4: Vijaynagar to Guwahati (The return journey)

After saying our goodbyes to our generous cook, we started for a small restaurant in Vijaynagar where we were served fresh rotis and sabzi.

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Until we meet again!

Because of the overnight rains, we had to engage 4wd on the same Miao-Vijaynagar road where we had happily travelled in 2wd just a couple of days back. The road is narrow with steep falls and because of the mud and slush, the Bolero would start sliding around if 4H was not engaged.

We met a family who were travelling to Vijaynagar to meet their family after almost a decade. They were understandably very happy with the new road.

The Bolero was making some clanging noise because of a hit it had taken the day before. We met a mechanic at Gandhigram who took a long iron pipe and pulled the erring exhaust pipe down to where it belonged. No more unwanted noises from thereon and only the sweet gurgle from the DI Engine which I have come to love.

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Simple Mechanical Beast. It takes me to tough to reach places and brings me back

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Baby with mother.


We exited Namdapha Tiger Reserve at Mpen and had a late lunch at Miao. We picked up Chiranjit’s polo and transferred all our stuff from the Bolero. I drove to my sister’s place and kept the Bolero at her home for the time being.

From thereon, all 4 of us were in the Polo which felt so comfortable to Hari that he started his engine noises again. The music system in Chiranjit’s Polo is excellent and I had a blast playing songs during the all night drive.

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Chiranjit's tastefully done up Polo

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Successful Vijaynagar Trippers.


We reached Guwahati in the morning after a marathon drive of nearly 24 hours. Thus, our trip to Vijaynagar ends here. I have requested Chiranjit and Reeturaj to pen down their thoughts on the trip. Hari has the following to say:

“Nothing. Nothing. That’s right, I felt nothing when we reached Deban, on the drive to Vijaynagar, and during the stay at Vijaynagar.

Why nothing? In this day and age, when no matter the time and place- we are constantly assaulted by a noise barrage - a constant cacophony of Calls, WhatsApp, Twitter, Instagram and the multitude of other Social Media platforms.

So, to be at a place where none of the noise can reach one is truly rare and marvellous.

And, isn’t what we as humans had for a long long time? To be able to feel, relive that is indeed wonderful.

To have the space to think and be alone with one’s thoughts, to be able to shut out all external noise and just be is a gift to cherish.

So, when I say I felt nothing I really mean nothing. What others would call Serenity or Tranquillity.

No matter the destination, one cannot enjoy it if the journey and the companions in the trip are not fun. I had a great group to travel with - Gunin, Reeturaj, Chiranjit. Of course, most of the time, I couldn’t understand the conversation that was happening as I was mostly half sleep during the ride. Some would say, all the drive I was asleep, but that is a lie. Don’t believe it . Thank You Gunin, Reeturaj and Chiranjit.

I would be remiss, if I did not mention the warm and hearty welcome we got from the villagers in Vijaynagar. Their open smiles and the invite to join in their Christmas celebrations, made the experience all that more cherished. Thank you to people of Hazolo and Two Hut villages.

Last but not least, as the cliche goes but this is not the least, but the most important member and memory of the trip. The Bolero in which we made the trip. Truly, what a magnificent beast. The ease with which it forced the rivers, the rough roads, the grip it had on the slippery, sliding road from Deban to Vijaynagar. The fact that it did most of this without even engaging the 4 wheel drive is mind boggling. Thank you.”
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Old 6th January 2023, 07:10   #8
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Re: Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!
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Old 6th January 2023, 08:11   #9
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Re: Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

This is fantastic Gunin, who would have known that we would get to see a travelogue with wheels from Vijaynagar !! For the uninitiated, Vijaynagar until some time back, didn’t have motorable roads. It’s so heartwarming to see that you along with your friend as well as Reeturaj and Chiranjit made it to Vijaynagar in your trusted Bolero without much drama.

People used to trek for even bare essentials and those treks sometimes took more than seven days even. Finally, the road infra has taken shape and I guess it will be a fully tarred road by the end of this year. Lovely account of the pristine place and its people. Also, lovely to see the Deban FRH, it has remained the same still. That cottage remains the highlight inside the park.

Thanks for bringing this hitherto unknown place to the mainstream. At least, people outside NE will now know that there existed a place which didn’t have a road in this day and age, until some time back. Although, a purist in me would have wanted the status que to remain as it is but then the people of the place deserve better.

P.S- Always great to see Reeturaj and Chiranjit in their elements. And what more is left to be said about your workhorse Bolero- match made in heaven I say.

Last edited by ABHI_1512 : 6th January 2023 at 08:13.
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Old 6th January 2023, 08:35   #10
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Re: Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

After losing the opportunity to be on the Blapakram trip this was one trip i was not letting go for anything. I had this trip on the bucket list for a long time and jumped on the opportunity.
I was itching to visit Vijoynagar, after i came to know that the roads were gradually being made motorable since last year.
What an adventure it was throught. As we lost cell/mobile connectivity we connected more with the vast open outdoors.
The landscape, star studded night sky and the warmth of the simple hardy people enroute the MV(Miao/Vijoynagar) road will forevever be calling me back for an encore. There were so many moments that the four of us were left speechless and spellbound.

Special mention must be made to the silent hero of our trip, Gunin's Bolero 4x4 that took us to Vijoynagar and beyond. One of the most underrated 4wd for these terrains. I doubt any other 4wd can hold a candle to it in stock form on these terrains. It is the quintessential mountain goat.

We made it the last fareast frontier this side of the map and back.
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Old 6th January 2023, 08:39   #11
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Re: Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

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Originally Posted by gunin View Post
We had off-roaded our way to the beautiful Hazolo Village in Vijaynagar on Christmas day
Thanks for sharing. I was actually waiting for some Bhpian to share about the route since it’s opening. I had plans to do Arunachal in Dec. 2022 but never worked out.
Did you face any issue with the permits ?
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Old 6th January 2023, 09:01   #12
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Re: Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

Great travelogue and equally awesome pictures. I have always been a fan of your TLs and this one is as good as your previous ones.
The simple and humble Bolero was the perfect companion and I guess no other vehicle could have done what the DI 4WD did with aplomb.
Will plan a visit soon and will take you along as my guide
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Old 6th January 2023, 14:29   #13
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Re: Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

Lovely thread Gunin da. I thoroughly enjoyed reading it & I am equally amazed that you remember every small detail (I was also in this trip & don't remember all these small details). Here's a small write-up from my side:

The prologue:


Ever since I knew Gunin da personally, I wanted to tag along with him on his epic journeys. Also since last year, I was also posted in Arunachal Pradesh (he's also posted here, but in a different district). So, it was kind of a now or never situation. Around mid/end November, we (myself, Gunin da & Reeturaj da) met in Guwahati to check out Reeturaj da's new Toyota Hyryder AWD. There Gunin da told me that his friend from Chennai is coming over around Christmas time & we should plan a trip. Of course I was all game for it!

As for destination he told me that it's a place called Vijaynagar in Changlang District. Now, initially I wasn't very impressed with the idea. First, the name Vijaynagar doesn't sound very remote or beautiful (we have a place called Vijaynagar around 20km from Guwahati). Second, was Changlang district. My current job means that I visit Changlang district (of course a different part of it) almost every month & it isn't a very exciting place to see. It's largely a plain area (not hilly like rest of Arunachal Pradesh), aka read it similar to Assam. It was until I did some research about the place & asked around a bit, I wasn't very sure of the destination. But I was to be proved wrong big time, this ended up being one of the best trips I have ever taken.

The Journey

After some last minute changes, it was decided that Gunin da, Reeturaj da, Hari would start from Guwahati on 22.12.22 at night & would reach Dibrugarh early morning next day. Whereas I would start from Itanagar on 23.12.22 at around 04:00 am & reach Dibrugarh around the same time. I tried to sleep early (which didn't happen ), set the alarm for 03:30 am. On dot 04:02 am, I fired up the Polo TDi on a chilly morning (it was still pitch dark) & began my journey. At this odd hour, roads were empty & thankfully devoid of any fog. So, I made good progress & Polo munched the the miles. Reached Dibrugarh at around 07:00am & the others had reached a bit earlier. Met Prakritij da, handed over the keys to the Polo & immediately wanted to hop in the Bolero. But he & his wife had prepared a sumptuous breakfast at this odd hour, big thanks!

My journey begins:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-20221223_040229.jpg

At Prakritij's home (in the background that's his 2019 Ecosport Ecoboost):

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-20221223_071641.jpg

After that we hit the road in Bolero towards Namdapha tiger reserve with me behind the wheel. This route (around 80% of the way) is very familiar to me, so it was a enjoyable but uneventful journey up-to that point. The mood among the group was very good (despite them being on the road for 12 hours already). After Miao, Changlang district the road narrows & within 30 minutes or so we reach the check-post to enter Namdapha tiger reserve. We show our documents & after a bit of confusion by the guard on duty, they let us through. After around 20 minutes or so, we reached Deban, our stay for the night. That place is very lovely & the landscape is very soothing. One can sit at the riverside for hours, it's that beautiful. Also, the winds are very strong from the river (more so at night), & makes quite a sound. As expected we all were very tired, so everyone went to bed early & had a sound sleep.

Everyone happy:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-20221223_092338.jpg

En route Namdapha:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-dsc_0033.jpg

Narrow roads begin:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-20221223_133043.jpg

Forest IB at Deban:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-dsc_0074.jpg

No-Dihing river:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-dsc_0053.jpg

Next day was going to be the big day. The road up-to Vijaynagar was only made motor-able few months back! We only had to cover around 130km that day, but started early since we didn't know about the road condition. Of course the road was bumpy (max speed was around 30kmph), very narrow but was way better than we expected (mainly due to the fact that there was no rain for 2 last months). Bolero in 2WD mode made it easily to Vijaynagar. It took us around 7 hours to reach Vijaynagar. Vijaynagar town is like a valley, surrounded by hills. It was a sight to behold & now all of my doubts regarding visting a place called Vijaynagar in Changlang district had vanished. Our accommodation was in the PWD Circuit House & we settled in there nicely, we were allotted a room with 4 beds.

En-route Vijaynagar:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-dsc_0159.jpg

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-dsc_0162.jpg

We parked in a rock falling zone:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-dsc_0130-1.jpg

So that I can catch a falling rock:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-dsc_0137.jpg

Circuit House, Vijaynagar:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-20221226_070652.jpg

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-dsc_0188.jpg

25.12.22 would be about exploring the nearby areas. To show us around, we had asked one of the locals to join us & show us around. 3 of them joined us & accompanied us for the whole day. The first village that we visited was such a lovely place, so clean & organized. We were also treated as kind of chief guest there, must to our embarrassment. Next up was crossing a river, which the Bolero crossed in 4H without any fuss. We further drove on, with 4WD being a must here. Also the landscaped changed here, we were soon inside forest with thick vegetation (compared to the Valley like open area in Vijaynagar town). Reeturaj da literally crawled up the rocks in 4L, with Gunin da doing the spotting. Finally the track ended, & it was a track uphill on foot. Around 2 hours later, we returned back to the Bolero. This time I was behind the wheel of the Bolero with no prior offroading experience. But it was a walk in the park with the Bolero & these 2 experienced guys guiding me. Put Bolero in 4L (whenever necessary) & simply crawled over anything & everything without creating a fuss. The end destination for the day was to visit a newly opened Gurkha Baptist Church, even here we were treated as chief guest & served a very delicious lunch (which we finished like we hadn't eaten for days). Finally we returned back to Vijaynagar & thanked our guide(s).

Some Bolero clicks:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-dsc_0217.jpg

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-dsc_0219.jpg

Final check before river crossing:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-dsc_0263.jpg

Soaking in the atmosphere:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-dsc_0338.jpg

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-dsc_03222.jpg

EAC office, Vijaynagar:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-20221226_063652.jpg

Home Run

On the morning we bid adieu to Vijaynagar & its people. All the peoples were very welcoming & always had a big smile on their face . We started at around 08:00 am & it was a continuous drive (with one lunch stop) to Dibrugarh. We reached Dibrugarh 12 hours later at around 08:00 pm. We transferred all our luggage in the Polo (which was a struggle) & decided to proceed to Guwahati without a night halt anywhere. It was an uneventful drive back to Guwahati, with the Polo munching miles effortlessly. Finally I reached my home at around 07:00 am in the morning after dropping everyone.

Final morning at Vijaynagar:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-20221226_063513.jpg

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-20221226_063521.jpg

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-20221226_071712.jpg

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-20221226_063524.jpg

Home run in the Polo:

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-dsc_0374.jpg

Mini review of the Bolero DI Turbo 4WD

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-20221224_100331.jpg

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-20221224_105810.jpg

I over the last 4 years have been driven in & driven many different Boleros, including 3 Bolero DI Turbos. Among them was a 2015 Bolero DI that I drove in 2021. It had 420k km on the odometer & everything was stock. That car runs in & around Tanot, Jaisalmer district, Rajasthan, where roads are awesome without any traffic. Even then 420k km is no mean feat, also the engine didn't like it was at the end of its life.

This Bolero is the only 4WD that I have driven. Also its running slightly upsized wheels, so it is kind of lifted. She has done over 100k km, with most of its running on harsh conditions (read no road). But she drives like a showroom fresh piece, no unwanted noise from anywhere (engine or body). Of course the old school DI is noisy, full of vibrations, but it will always keep on going, no matter what.

Getting off the line feels great, with so much low end torque. The first 3 gears are very short, whereas the 4th & 5th gears are super long. Get past the strong low mid range, there isn't any mid range punch as such. Don't think about overtaking that hatchback on our undivided highways. But when the roads become no road (like in our case), it comes alive. The tough underpinnings give it a in-destructive feeling, no matter how much you abuse it. All round leaf spring setup means it can take some beating without any risk of something breaking (except maybe the persons inside).

Then comes the off-roading part, GC is very good, approach & departure angle is also very good. The massive low end torque helps here, one can literally crawl over obstacles at idle. Also the lack of any electric gimmick means, there's lesser things to go bad, which at remote location like this is of utmost importance. The super tough underpinnings help, all round leaf setup means there isn't much to be damaged on the under-body. Even if something gets hit, it is easily fixed with a hammer.

Moreover, a white Bolero blends in everywhere. It gets the job done, without making a fuss or showing off. I was already a big fan of the Bolero, now I have become an even bigger fan.

Last edited by chiranjitp : 6th January 2023 at 14:43.
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Old 6th January 2023, 15:19   #14
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Re: Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

Quote:
Originally Posted by gunin View Post

Vijaynagar is the remotest circle of Changlang District, Arunachal Pradesh which is really saying a lot.
Having spent part of my childhood in Changlang, I have always known about Vijoynagar. My father had trekked to and from the place, when he was a young man. His stories about the place and the week-long trek are still etched somewhere deep in my heart. It had always been in my bucket list, just to re-live that experience myself. But I never got the chance (or the guts) to go there alone by myself after I grew up.

If anyone has watched the Bhutanese movie "Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom", you can get a very nice picture of how I am feeling after reading bhpian gunin's travelogue. Now that the roads will soon be paved, and tourists will start coming, the simplicity and warmth of the place will not remain the same. Maybe, I'll pay a visit someday, even though it will never be the same experience. But it feels good to read about it here. Thanks.

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-vojoynagar1.jpg

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-vojoynagar2.jpg

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-vojoynagar3.jpg

Enough of my brooding. A wonderful write-up, as usual. Gunin is starting to build up his own fan following in teambhp!

Last edited by BhaskarG : 6th January 2023 at 15:28.
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Old 6th January 2023, 21:23   #15
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Re: Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles

What a lovely travelogue Gunin, went through it at one go. Someday hope to join you in one of the trips.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gunin View Post
Simple Mechanical Beast. It takes me to tough to reach places and brings me back
I missed the Bolero so much after coming to the UK that I had to get a simple car. This vehicle is very similar to the Bolero

Vijaynagar, Arunachal Pradesh: Rough Roads Beautiful Smiles-munchkin_slindon.jpg

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yogi..Reeturaj View Post
Special mention must be made to the silent hero of our trip, Gunin's Bolero 4x4 that took us to Vijoynagar and beyond. One of the most underrated 4wd for these terrains. I doubt any other 4wd can hold a candle to it in stock form on these terrains. It is the quintessential mountain goat.
The Bolero is anything but silent The diesel clatter used to be playing in my ears long after I stopped driving the Bolero on a trip. But yes, it is one of the most underrated 4wds and I love it for that. It just keeps on doing its job without needing any validation from others.
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