22nd December 2023, 13:28
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| Solo road-trip around Iceland in a Camper Van Solo road trip around Iceland, in a Camper van! Prologue Ever since I discovered the northern lights, I have wanted to go see them in Iceland. Over the last few years, this trip to see the lights and glaciers started getting higher on my bucket list every time I watched a new global warming documentary. Towards the start of this year, my friend and I started thinking about actually going to the island, however, due to a tight work schedule and the visa office being in a different city and remaining closed over weekends in the US, my friend would not be able to apply for a Schengen visa and so the plan was dropped. The seed of this bucket list item actually realising was now planted in my head and I started thinking, why not go by myself? God knows how long it will take for me to make it there if I keep waiting for others to join me. So, I started my research on the visa procedure and required documents. What I found out was that since I only wanted to go to Iceland, getting the dates for submitting an application at VFS in India for Iceland was a rare occurrence and all the agents I contacted just told me one thing, no dates are coming for Iceland and that I should try some other country or keep looking for dates by myself and that if I can manage to book the dates from my side, they won't even help with preparing the documentations etc since for that the dates too have to be booked by them. After being unsuccessful in looking for an appointment on the VFS website every day for a month I was pretty sure that my going to Iceland this year seemed unlikely and frankly almost dropped out on the plan. One morning in June, out of boredom I randomly checked the website at 7 am and couldn't believe what I saw. 3 new slots had opened at VFS Mumbai for the following month. I quickly booked mine for travelling between late August and Early September and so the hope of actually going was back. My plan was to drive around the country on the Ring Road and stay at hotels/hostels along my way. Now all those who have gone or even read about Iceland travel in 2023 know that most good options are sold out months in advance and that booking very close to travel dates i.e 2 months like I was, meant whatever was available would be priced at a very high premium, even by Iceland standard and that is saying something. The prices are truly through the roof if you try to book as late as I was, even though I was travelling in the shoulder season. All hostels other than the ones in Reykjavik were fully booked too. So I did the next best thing. I booked a camper van instead. This was now going to be a solo camper van road trip around Iceland and boy was I excited and nervous at the same time! Day 1 I landed at Keflavik International Airport around noon and was pleasantly surprised by a celebratory welcome with snacks, toffies, champagne, soft drinks and live music right at our baggage carousel. Turns out, it was the opening day of the newest baggage reclaim hall of the airport.  I then took the FlyBus to Reykjavik for my stay at Kex Hostel. Met my new roommates and headed out for a stroll since the hostel was right in the heart of the city within walking distance of most of the famous attractions in Reykjavik. The Sun Voyager sculpture with people chilling and fishing all around it.  Harpa concert hall and conference centre.  Towards the back of the Harpa hall is this cute lighthouse.  Iceland has a lot of these modified massive 4x4s. Many who regularly go into the highlands in the snow also get a Central Tyre Inflation System (CTIS) installed.  The Hallgrímskirkja Church.  Rainbow Street.  These Hot Dogs are very tasty. They make up for a quick and affordable meal as well. Highly recommend trying them!  Day 2 In the morning, I checked out and said goodbye to my roommate over breakfast and headed out to take a taxi to Cozy Campers to pick up my camper van. I was waiting for my very expensive taxi to arrive with a few others outside the hostel when a Tesla Model 3 taxi pulled up and asked for a pickup for Cozy Campers. Surprisingly, two other people also hollered yes. What had happened was that this was the free pickup provided by the rental company which I had forgotten to reserve but the other two had booked. The two kind girls who I later learnt were from New Jersey offered me to join them since the car had space and the driver had no problem with that. I saved about a good Icelandic dinner worth of money thanks to their gesture. Had a cool conversation with them about our plans for the trip and the orange alert for upcoming bad weather. We spoke a lot about what it's like to drive in India and how it would be like to drive in Iceland when the taxi lady told us "Whatever you do darlings, mind the speed limits. You will get fined if you are caught going even 10 over the limit. And always keep an eye out for sheep on the roads!" as she casually drove at 100 in a 90 zone (something I later noticed was very common amongst the locals since they know where the common speed traps are). As we were in the process of picking up our campers, the updated forecast predicted heavy rain and wind speeds up to 80km/h that evening through the next morning. Since we did not have concrete itineraries, the rental company suggested camping at a site which had some forest or buildings in the vicinity which would help if the winds picked up. We then said goodbye and went our separate ways. My home for the next few days, a Renault Traffic van.  With barely 13000kms on the ODO, she was practically brand new.  After a quick stop at Bónus for groceries and essentials, I headed towards the Thingvellir National Park in the Golden Circle.  Picture clicked with an Insta360 camera mounted on head. Met a few NRI dudes at this stop between Reykjavik and the Thingvellir National Park who were touring the South Coast. Most of my trip consisted of driving on such raised roads with a steep declines on either side of them. This particular one though is still wide enough with little space left after the white line. Majority of the Ring Road doesn't have this space and there is a direct decline after the white line which makes driving on them rather challenging at times because of wind gusts etc. Not to mention, having to navigate around other similar or wider vehicles.  Visited the Silfra Fissure which is a crack between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. If you are adventurous enough you can dive in the glacial water that flows in the crack. I then started towards the other Golden Circle attractions.  The Brúarfoss is often ignored by a lot of people but it is absolutely beautiful with its blue water.    The Strokkur Geysir that erupts every 5-10 mins. Last stop of the day was Gullfoss. One of the most iconic waterfalls of the country.     Also spotted this jacked up all terrain bus parked nearby.  I camped at the Sellfoss campsite that night. My camper was at very end of this line and while other vans did come and park next to me later, the tall trees were still further away for any significant help during the storm which was now gradually picking up with gusts throwing you off balance when walking.  Had an Apple and protein bar for dinner in the van itself and called it a night I woke up several times throughout the night despite having had a long tiring day because of the violent winds shaking the van. Day 3 Got up fairly early to figure out the whole living out of a van thing and arranging my stuff properly for the next few days. Bumped into my friends from New Jersey while freshening up at the campsite facilities, caught up with what all we did and again headed our separate ways. Made myself a half-decent breakfast on the camping stove in my van and started for the very famous south coast of Iceland.   I was on schedule till I actually had to clean up after the breakfast. Made a mental note to shift to boiled eggs instead of omelettes for remaining days to save time and started on my way to the south coast. It was far less windy today which made driving on the narrow Ring Road a lot easier. The first stop of the day was Seljalandsfoss     Last edited by NerdyMillennial : 14th January 2024 at 14:49. |
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5th January 2024, 14:41
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| re: Solo road-trip around Iceland in a Camper Van Day 3 Contd.... There is this other waterfall called Gljúfrabúi about a 5 min walk from Seljalandsfoss that you kind of have to walk through a little cave to get to. Must visit if you're at Seljalandsfoss.    I again bumped into the guys I had met on my way to Thingvellir the day before, caught up on the severity of the storm from last night when I found out the wind gusts had crossed 90km/h which explained the violent shaking of my van during the night. We clicked some pictures and went our ways.  The rain and winds had picked up by the time I reached Skogafoss which is just a few minutes drive from Saljalandsfoss. I was barely able to walk in the extreme winds and raindrops that hit my face like shards of glass. The weather soon eased up a little and I strolled around the waterfall.   There was this steep hike on the right to go to the top of the waterfall and when the weather started to come back, I contemplated skipping it however I figured I had come this far, why not go see the entire thing and start on my way up? Bad bad Idea! About halfway to the top, it started pouring heavily and made the entire hike to the top utterly miserable despite wearing full head-to-toe rain gear.  The view from the top didn't make up for it either. Oh well.  Wet and miserable, I treated myself to an average cup of cappuccino at Hotel Skogafoss before heading out. People will tell you that the weather in Iceland changes at a moments notice. During my research, I often came across the saying "If you don't like the weather, just wait 5 minutes". In fact, you will even mind merch with this printed on it being sold across the country. I experienced this phenomenon for the first time as I got out of the Hotel Skogafoss towards my camper. I clicked this picture just before I sat in my camper. At 2:37PM.  Got in my camper, set up my next destination on the maps, my music etc and reversed out of my slot to this view. Clicked at 2:43PM. Just 6 mins after the above shot. Incredible!  The DC-3 plane wreck is pretty cool to see if you are an aviation enthusiast. This US Navy aircraft crashed here in 1973 after running out of fuel with zero fatalities. It was later found out that the pilot accidentally switched to wrong tank which led to the crash. There are multiple ways to get to this site. This is also where I met two fellow Indians who were on a camping road trip around the island while staying in an actual tent along the way at campsites. Our rough plans for the next few days kind of matched so we decided to tour together.   You can either park your car and walk or take an off-road shuttle bus from the parking to the plane site like I did.  Another fun way of reaching this site is by driving ATVs which some tours offer.  The scene   The shot!  Next up was the Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach. This beautiful beach is infamous for its dangerous sneaker waves which appear without any warning and can even pull people back into the ocean with it. Anyhow, this beach was the most crowded place I visited in Iceland.     As such, they have installed a warning system at the entrance of the beach with 3 lights indicating the current level of hazard. There was a medium hazard warning when I went there so we had to stay out of the yellow zone. Yet some smarty pants wandered into that zone and a couple clicking pictures on the basalt rocks got hit by the wave, The guy lost the phone he was clicking pictures with and the lady lost her purse to the ocean.   Image from Google. Nonetheless, it is an extremely beautiful place to go and see! Decided to camp in the town of Vík that night. Stopped at this iconic church there on my way to the campsite. The view of the town and the ocean during sunset from there was stunning.   One with my camper.  This was just outside the campsite at Höfn. The bus has been converted to a Cafe, aptly called the School Beans Cafe.  The campsites generally had a separate area for tent campers.  Clicked this just as I was checkin in at the campsite.  I had originally planned for a glacier hike the next day but due to the severe weather, no tours were taking bookings and had even cancelled and refunded those who had pre-booked. At a crossroads between staying back for one more day in hopes of tours resuming or continuing onwards, I chose the latter. I now had one extra day during the trip. Last edited by NerdyMillennial : 14th January 2024 at 13:32. |
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5th January 2024, 17:28
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| re: Solo road-trip around Iceland in a Camper Van Day 4 We left for Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon soon after breakfast. You need to hike a little from the small paid parking to get to the canyon viewpoints.  This 100m deep canyon was formed during the last ice age when a glacial river carved its way through the soil    Next, we drove to see the svínafellsjökull glacier. This was my first time seeing a glacier up close and personal like this and I was truly mesmerised by what I was seeing.  As with most sights in Iceland, photos and videos just don't do justice to the sheer scale and intensity of things. It is only when you put a human in the picture for example the person in yellow on the bottom right of this image that you get the idea of how massive everything is.   I also spotted people on the glacier. My heart sank thinking I could have been up there on the ice instead of gawking at it from the side, some company seemed to have resumed the hikes for people. Well, something for the (hopeful) next time! I bumped into my friends from New Jersey on my way to the parking. They confirmed that their glacier hike has also been cancelled. They were scheduled to fly back in two days so we discussed what all we saw so far and bid a final goodbye.  The Glacier Lagoon, this place is as windy as it is spectacular. Walking or even just standing straight was proving to be a challenge due to the wind gusts.   Composed of ice that is 1000s of years old, watching the massive chunks of glacial ice drift into the ocean was an incredible but bittersweet sight to behold since locals explain that a lot of this ice that is going out into the ocean has been shrinking, thinning and retreating the glaciers over the recent years due to global warming.  Just across the street from Glacier Lagoon is the Diamond Beach. Some of those pieces of ice wash up on the shore here. I imagine this place must look very beautiful in the right season and time of day. There was not a lot of ice when I went there though, but I still enjoyed it.   Driving further east, a little past Höfn is the Vestrahorn mountain and the Stokksnes Beach. Since these are on private property, you need to purchase a pass on a per-person basis from the Vikings Cafe to enter.  Now I have already established that Iceland is very windy, but this place takes it to another level entirely and you notice it even before you can step out of the van. For purchasing the pass, I parked my van facing the wind as is advised for windy conditions so that the doors don't fly off when opening (which by the way is not covered by any insurance!). The problem with this as I found out is that the wind makes it very difficult to open the door. I had to push hard with both my hands to get it to open and stay so that I could somehow squeeze myself out without getting hurt. Fun! You can see the volcanic ashes flying across the road as you drive down to the beach on their internal road. I highly recommend getting sand and ash damage insurance for your vehicle if you are planning on visiting this place. We parked near the Stokknes lighthouse to walk on the trail but had to turn back soon because of getting hit in the face with tiny particles of volcanic ashes flying with the wind. Because of the same reason, we skipped the beach as well. Might have persevered through this had there been a high tide to get those insane shots of Vestrahorn with its reflection in the water. We then went to see the Viking Village prop that is right below the mountain and has been used in a few movies as well. While not worth a detour on its own, it is worth a stop if you are already there for Vestrahorn Mountain or the beach.  The 454m high and very steep mountain looks insane as you walk to the village.   While there was a campsite just outside the Vikings cafe, we decided to head back west to camp at Hofn instead because of the winds here. And how glad we were that we took this decision because just before calling it a night, I stepped out of my van for a walk to the bathroom and was surprised to see that the northern lights were out!! I just stood there for a while processing the incredible sight before quickly waking up my friends in their tent and rushing back to get my camera gear to click these pictures.    A long exposure of 30s. What a delightful night! Day 5 We were heading up north today to Myvatn. My friends wanted to visit a waterfall on the way that was on F-Road and since my van was not a 4x4, I could not join in. While they left quickly after breakfast, I had a slow lazy morning for the first time since starting this adventure. It was going to be a long day of just driving for me so I took my time planning the route and stops along the way. I decided to get off the Ring Road and take Road 939 which was a shortcut through the mountains into the town of Egilsstaðir. While officially not an F-Road, it is still off-road and gravel. I called my rental company to confirm whether I could drive up that in my 4x2 van and they told me I could without any worries. I had taken the highest possible insurance which covered rock chips as well so I was good to go. In hindsight, while it goes through a very beautiful landscape, I would not recommend it if you are travelling alone. It is eerily desolate. I was just happy to finally get to the end of it and onto Road 95. I stopped at Bonus in Egilsstaðir for a refill of groceries and some snacks before continuing on my up to Dettifoss. Decided to stop and stretch my legs about halfway between Egilsstaðir and Dettifoss at this pullover area in the middle of nowhere. Enjoyed a fruit and bottled coffee there and took some pictures of the van before getting back on the road.  Reached the thunderous Dettifoss in about 400 km and 6 hours of driving since I started in the morning. The Dettifoss is said to be the second most powerful waterfall in Europe. You have to walk about a kilometre from the parking spot to reach the waterfall. The power of the water as it falls can be felt through the ground the closer you get to it.  I was awestruck by the sheer power and size of the waterfall from up close.  Notice the people on the extreme left of the frame? Do not do this folks. No Instagram post is worth risking your life. Sadly a few other people also less concerned with their lives got inspired by these idiots and did the same thing.  You get to see the rainbow emerging if the sun comes out! Stopped at the Hevrir geothermal area in Myvatn. The nasty nauseating pungent rotten egg smell from the sulphuric gas-emitting fumaroles and the surrounding area with boiling mud pits makes you feel like you have landed on a different planet. The bizarre landscape does make up for the foul smell and insects there. This toxic lifeless piece of land reminds you that under its calm surface, the earth is constantly churning.    Camped at the cleanest, extremely well maintained and most beautiful of campsites that I stayed in Iceland. Camping Myvatn. My friends also made it to the campsite late in the evening.   Downloading and making photo backups with a view!  Tired from the long day of driving, I slept like a log. Last edited by NerdyMillennial : 14th January 2024 at 15:12. |
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11th January 2024, 16:25
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| re: Solo road-trip around Iceland in a Camper Van Day 6 I decided to have a slow easy day today. My friends headed off to Hvammstangi after an early breakfast. I took my time and started almost at noon. The first stop of the day was a quick one at Grjótagjá Cave to see a famous geothermal spring. Game of Thrones fans will recognise this place.  Stopped at the Goðafoss waterfall on my way to Akureyri.  I reached Akureyri by mid-afternoon and decided to relax at the Forest Lagoon for a good hour and a half after a quick snack.   All relaxed, I camped at Akureyri itself at the Camping Hamrar campsite.  Day 7 I had no plans for today whatsoever and was well-rested. So after catching up with my friends who had camped at Hvammstangi the night before and not being interested in stopping at Husavik or any other north coastal town for a detour off the Ring Road, I decided to have another long day of driving and started for the Snæfellsnes Peninsula to Kirkjufellsfoss. A journey of 380 km which, with stops for lunch and snacks, took me 6 hours to complete. Nature had different plans for me however since by the time I reached the Peninsula, the weather had started to get wild with high winds, rain and fog. Thankfully the fog had cleared up a little by the time I reached Kirkjufellsfoss though the rain and heavy winds remained.   It was extremely windy here making it difficult to walk or even stand. Not to mention the raindrops hitting your face. Got to know from my friends who had gone to other places on the Peninsula that the conditions were very foggy and all they saw was fog in all of the places they went to. We then decided to meet at a campsite just at Akranes just outside of Reykjavik. Another 140km drive for me. The drive within the peninsula is extremely scenic and beautiful.   Spent from driving 520km in the day, I made myself one of those precooked rice and daal meals and hit the hay early.  Day 8 My friends had to fly back home today. So bid them goodbye after breakfast and sat thinking about what to do. This was the extra day that I got because my glacier hiking and lagoon kayaking tours got cancelled earlier. With no plans, I decided to head to Reykjavik Campsite and wind down from the trip.  My dinner for the evening.  After a quick stroll around the residential neighbourhood and with extra time on my hands, I clicked some pictures of the interiors of the van at night. Watched a movie and went to sleep. Day 9 Today was my last day with the Van. Very close to the rental company was the Sky Lagoon, so I decided to go and chill there for a couple of hours before dropping off my van. The Sky Lagoon is located right along the coast overlooking the ocean. I had booked my appointment for the first slot of the day so there were only a handful of people there. It started getting a little crowded though within an hour or so.   There was also a bar!  Made some new friends here! We shared our stories of life and of the incredible trip which all of us were coincidentally at the end of.  Treated myself to a nice hot chocolate after a very relaxing 3.5 hours in the lagoon before heading back to return the camper.  Said a final goodbye to my camper after a very cozy 8 days and 1796kms with it.  Kitna deti hai? 7L/100kms aka 14.2kmpl  Took the rental company shuttle into the heart of Reykjavik and checked in to the same hostel as I had when I first arrived here, the Kex Hostel. Day 10 Instead of taking the Flybus to Keflavik airport, I decided to rent a Model 3 and drive there myself and maybe take a few detours on my way.  This is when I realised that the model 3 does not come with a simple speed limiter function. It just comes with the autopilot and adaptive cruise control which is useful only on the highways. Given the strict speed limits with barely any margin for error, this simple omission made driving the car a pain in the rear for me. I was so used to setting the speed limiter on my van to the speed limit and not worrying much about it that driving this Model 3 without it was extremely tiring since I also had to navigate at the same time within the city roads and junctions. Not to mention, the lack of an instrument cluster. It was infuriating not having the speed right in front of you, instead, the speed is displayed on the driver's side of the infotainment screen. Anyhow, with not a lot of things to see between Reykjavik and Keflavik, I stopped for a quick bite and reached the airport early to return the car after just 54kms with it. Never have I felt so relieved to finally let a car go. Total distance driven on the trip (Van + Model 3) stood at 1850kms  Boarded the aircraft for my long journey back home.  Van interior tour Front cabin, dashboard and driver's POV.  This is how the rear cabin looked when I was on the move. Most things are stowed away and the curtains open and secured. The towels that are drying are on the side of the van which has no windows. The van was also equipped with a diesel heater, solar panels on the roof, a separate battery for appliances and a 12v power socket in the back. The controls and indicators for which were just at the rear doorway below the inbuilt electric cooler, left bottom of the image.  This is how I usually slept, with the extra bed folded in. The rental company included the pillows and duvet.  With the bed pulled over and out, the backrest can be folded down to make it a double bed for 2 people.  The bed was hinged so it could be pulled up and out to reveal a storage space beneath. Apologies for the blurry picture.  A foldable table to cook / work on with storage behind. Notice the two circular vents at the bottom. These are the outlets for hot air from the diesel cabin heater which keeps you nice and toasty throughout the night.  These 2 x 10L tanks with an inbuilt electric water pump kept in the boot (which you could refill anywhere) supplied the tap on the sink with running water.  Epilogue Map of the roads I took and most of the places I went to. I drove around the country counterclockwise since there is a lot to do in the Southern part of the island and things taper off the further north you go. This gives you time to relax and take things slow towards the end of your journey.  Driving on the island was a whole experience in itself. This was my first time driving on the opposite (to us) side of the road and it took me a good two days to get used to doing certain things differently. We have to look in the opposite direction at intersections, take the roundabouts counterclockwise, make sure you dont turn into the wrong lane of oncoming traffic etc I have already established in my long post that the wind in Iceland is something else altogether. That makes a huge impact when you are driving down the narrow roads at 90km/h in what is essentially a big black box! While you can deal with constant winds with opposite steering correction, it's the gusts that catch you off guard. They suddenly push the camper off track and one needs to be quick with the corrections. One of the quirks of the fuel stations in Iceland is that there are options ranging from 5000KR all the way up to 20000KR to choose to fill your tank with which is followed by a "fill-up" option. Since you don't know exactly how much fuel you'll need, one would be inclined to choose the fill-up option and pay for whatever you use. That is a bad idea because the moment you choose that option a hold of around 200-250 USD is placed on your card and the difference between that and what you actually used is released only after 8-10 days! The other option is to select the pre-defined amounts which should only result in a charge for the actual fuel filled. This however did not happen with me and both at N1 and Orkan, a hold of about ~120USD was placed on my card. I did get the rightful difference back but that was after I had returned from the trip. So something to keep in mind when planning for your forexes. All in all, Iceland is a wonderful place which I believe people should visit at least once if their lifetime in not more. The landscapes, waterfalls, glaciers and (if your timing matches, the volcanos) not to mention the winds are otherworldly. And that is something very hard to convey over multimedia like this, one must be there in person to truly experience the magnificence of all the landscapes and phenomena that occur there. It is the kind of place that you can visit with your partner, family, friends or even solo like I did and enjoy every minute of it. People often ask me whether it got lonely travelling solo like this and my answer to that generally is that if you are comfortable with yourself and can enjoy your own company, you will be hard-pressed to feel lonely on a solo trip like this. More so if you don't mind going and initiating conversations with other fellow travellers, solo or not. Meeting and talking to new people from all over the world was as much a part of my trip as driving was and it made the world of a difference. I cannot stress enough the importance of staying in good hostels every once in a while for all the socialising (use your common sense) benefits that they offer on such a trip. So... Would I like to visit again? Hell yes! What would I do differently if I visit again, solo or otherwise? - Visit in another season since the landscape changes dramatically in different seasons. - Make sure to rent a 4x4 so that I can drive on the F-Roads. - Explore the West Fjords and if possible the even more desolate central-ish parts of the country. - Maybe go with a partner or a travel buddy who can drive and take things slow, enjoy the views on our way from point a to b. - Learn to click better pictures and bring an ultra-wide angle zoom lens with me. Most importantly, would I recommend others to visit this place? Absolutely! Until next time, NerdyMillennial Last edited by NerdyMillennial : 14th January 2024 at 15:35. |
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14th January 2024, 17:50
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15th January 2024, 09:53
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15th January 2024, 10:00
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15th January 2024, 10:26
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| Senior - BHPian  | re: Solo road-trip around Iceland in a Camper Van Quote:
I, for sure, will bookmark it for reference if and when I plan my trip to Iceland. So far it is on the cards for summer of 2025. | |
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15th January 2024, 11:19
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| re: Solo road-trip around Iceland in a Camper Van Quote:
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15th January 2024, 11:25
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15th January 2024, 11:33
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15th January 2024, 13:52
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| Senior - BHPian | Re: Solo road-trip around Iceland in a Camper Van Quote:
About the Monster Trucks / Buses - We have an acquaintance who is an Icelander. One of her relatives drives one of those Monster Tour buses to the Glaciers. I keep hearing about the unpredictability of the winds that you mention of. You ventured out Solo and took a Camper Van. Kudos to that. It is lifestyle not many accept easily as it involves roughing it out a bit. Last edited by 14000rpm : 15th January 2024 at 13:53. | |
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15th January 2024, 19:25
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16th January 2024, 12:52
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| BHPian Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Pune
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| Re: Solo road-trip around Iceland in a Camper Van Quote:
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Even I considered Norway for a little while but decided to proceed with Iceland since the travel date was fast approaching and I had researched a lot more about travelling in Iceland. Since we are now in the period of the highest solar activity in the solar cycle of 11 years, Norway or even Finland are high on my list right now for the Northern Lights. | |||
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