[aditya_rao]

I was in India during Dec-Jan for vacation. This was a trip after almost 6 years, so bound to be a hectic trip, with a family function and lots of travel. One of the things planned was to visit Srisailam in Andhra Pradesh, Akkalkot and Siddheshwar Temple in Solapur

As a kid I used to visit Srisailam with my family every 2-3 years in one of the LTC trips(when govt used to provide LTC every 2 or 4 years, not sure if that still exists, but I did enjoy those trips and I got to visit many places all over India). Those were times when we used to take the APSRTC buses from Hyderabad and stay in the tourism hotels or govt rest houses. We mostly took the free darshan queue and it barely took 15-20 mins for darshan, that too till the end and we could touch the shivlingam. We've been lucky to visit at night also, just before the doors were closed with no one around. On some occasions we did use other modes of darshan with direct entry, but the free queue used to be a quick one too.

My last trip to Srisailam was when Andhra Pradesh (AP) and Telangana (TS) were one state, so I wasn't sure if there would be any major changes except for roads. On many of the past trips we drove in own car and at times in rental vehicles, so while it wasn't a tiring journey, we used to take darshan at night or next day and return back to Hyderabad and then back home. At times we took the APTDC packages, which included bus journey and hotel accommodation. Since the crowds were less a decade or two back, the hotels and the area in general was more cleaner as compared to today. We used to stop on the way to take photos of the dam and surrounding areas, without worrying about getting stuck in a traffic jam. Life was much easier in the earlier days (my parents once even walked over the dam to visit the temple taking the jungle route and now I feel I missed that chance as a chose to sit in a car and wait for them)

Before I move into details of the trip, let me first cover the other two temples also. We were visiting Solapur and going to stay there for 4-5 days, so we decided to visit Akkalkot and also Siddheshwar (which was in Solapur itself). Akkalkot is around 45 mins to 1 hr from Solapur, so it's like a half day trip. We started around noon (though the best time is to start early and come back by noon). We parked in the parking lot on the other side of the road. The temple area was crowded, but there are people who take you from a shortcut for Rs 100, if you don't want to spend time getting pushed and pushing other people in the regular queue. These folks take you right inside the main area from where you have to get into a regular queue. We couldn't go too close as it was completely packed with no space to stand for few seconds also, so had to take darshan from a distance and then we decided to return.

On the way back, we visited an arms museum in the Akkalkot Palace. The museum houses lot of sword and toys from last 100-200 years, but it is in a really bad shape. The arms are 99% rusted and with no maintenance, and a big piece of history is lost to damage. The guard said it's undergoing maintenance, though the museum part look untouched. The toys and other items are largely damaged and I'm not sure what could be done to preserve them. I wish everyone takes inspiration from the royal/heritage locations in Rajasthan and see how they preserve their historical artifacts. I don't know if the current generation shows interest in history except from what is told in books but preserving historical sites would probably give them a different perspective. There is a ticket that has to be taken (15-20 Rs I guess per person, I didn't pay so don't recall exactly )

From there were were back in Solapur in less than an hour. The next day we went to Siddheshwar temple late in the evening. There weren't many people and there is also some construction going around it. There is a lake on one side of the temple. There is lot of history about this temple, which I had never heard before visiting it, but for now will keep that aside for another day.

Now back to Srisailam. Before I go into the journey, some facts about Srisailam

The temple in Srisailam is called Sri Bhramaramba Mallikarjuna Temple and it has two difference temples (or structures). First it is a Shakti Peeth and second it's one of the twelve Jyotirlinga's in India. There are 18 Shakti Peetha's all over India. There is also an Adi Shankaracharya Temple in the same area.

The town of Srisailam is located in Nallamala hills and houses two tiger reserves - Nagarjunsagar Srisalam Tiger Reserve (NSTR) and the more recently created Amrabad Tiger Reserve (ATR) after the split of Andhra Pradesh. The NSTR is the largest reserve in India by area. Both reserves have got some tours, but I've never been on any of them and haven't heard of any tiger sightings, the way you hear about other reserves in India.

The other aspect of Srisailam is Power Generation. The Srisalam Power project built over Krishna river also marks the boundaries of AP and TS. The project had two sides - left bank and right bank projects which subsequently went to TS and AP, after the split. The right bank project has capacity of 770 MW whereas the left bank has a capacity of 660 MW. On paper, it is said that the there is a potential to take this to even higher levels, but not sure if there are any plans to increase it.

We hired an Innova to do this journey and opted for an overnight stay there. We started around 8:30 in the morning. The plan was to reach by afternoon. The roads in Hyderabad and outskirts are really world class. While many of you would be using these roads on daily basis, for me, it was a different sight as I was traveling on them after more than a decade. The ORR has speed limits for each lane and at times there are cops hiding in the bushes with their speed guns. Like most other toll roads, payment is done via fast tag. At the first toll we crossed there was an ICICI bank van just ahead of the toll booth, for people who wished to purchase it (say if you have an older car that didn't get a fast tag during RTO passing process). We soon had to exit ORR and had take an exit for a smaller highway that led to Srisailam. As soon as you exit ORR, the visuals are noticeably different and all the glamour of Hyderabad goes away. The roads are narrower and the scenery changes significantly. The next few hours was uneventful as such and we stopped at one point to take coffee. We soon reached a place called Dindi, which has a dam, creating a reservoir (for irrigation I guess). The road I had taken earlier was at lower levels and was a very narrow one, which often got flodded during rains. But now there is a bridge/newer road, so the problem of flooding would not arise. We didn't stop here and continued ahead reaching the hill section where the jungle area starts.

Once you are in the final 70-80 kms, the speed is reduced and you will encounter traffic. Our travel dates coincided with a long weekend and that added to the traffic woes once we were in the forest area. The initial part was fine and the traffic was moving at a good pace. Once you cross from TS the AP side, the roads are even narrow and probably haven't been maintained in the last few years (or even decades). There is a checkpost as you enter AP and you have to pay at the toll booth. The bridge over Krishna is a very old one (as you would see in the dash cam video) and looks same as how it was probably 15-20 years back. There is hardly any water and while are not supposed to stop and block traffic, they still stop for photos of the Dam. The next part of journey is again through forest areas and eventually we started seeing returning traffic getting backed up and at one point we thought the blockage was for few kms. Thankfully there weren't many people going into Srisailam compared to the ones coming out. We finally reached Sakshi Ganapati temple and decided that we'll stop while returning. There is a saying that you should stop here and tell Lord Ganesha that we visited his parents abode and to request him to remind them of our prayers (Sakshi or Saksh means witness to the visit). Hence many people stop here on the way back.

There is also a place called Shikaram about which there is another saying that if you can spot the top of the gopuram/golden part in between Nandi's horns, you will achieve nirvana. We didn't plan to go there this time, but have been to it when didn't used to be so crowded. We never could see the golden part during the earlier visits, but it used to be a fun thing to do as kids.

As we reached closer the traffic in our direction was also getting backed up. There is an entry fee to the devasthanam area (Rs 100) charged by local authorities and has to be paid in cash (no fast tag here). As soon as we crossed the gates, there were cars all around and we could not move ahead. Since we stayed the Haritha (AP Tourism Hotel), we decided to walk from the point of traffic jam as it wasn't that far. The driver later called and said there's no way for him to come into the hotel area, so he will spend the night wherever he finds parking. The hotel quality and maintenance has gone down considerably, but we could not find any other place, so had to go with whatever was available. The food quality is also less than average and expecting cleanliness is like asking for too much. This wasn't the case earlier though. The same APTDC hotel(s) used to be clean and tidy, even if they were not fancy and luxurious.

Since we had reached in afternoon, we decided to do the ropeway/cable car attraction which was not very far from the hotel. There are shared autos, that will take you there for Rs 20 or you can block the entire auto for 100-120 or so. When we reached there, there was a long queue and the person at ticket counter was telling everyone that it would be at least 1 hr to reach down and maybe 2 hrs to come back up due to the rush. We didn't want to get stuck, so we had tea and headed back to the hotel.

We had taken two types of darshan - sparsha for Rs 500 (where you can go inside and touch the shivalingam) and sheeghra (fast) for Rs 150. Except for the free darshan, everything else is to be booked online. I don't know if they allow booking on the spot, but there may be limited tickets for walk-in devotees. Our first one was for that same night and second one was for next day morning. We had darshan for that night, but we were able to go for the earlier slot around 7-7:30 PM. We initially thought very few people might be taking sparsha darshan tickets, but soon realized that the whole world comes for the Rs 500 one only, so except for the fact that you can go inside, there is not a lot of difference in terms of the push and pull that happens. One has to stand in different holding areas and someone from the temple will come at regular intervals and keep opening the gates for the next section. One new thing I found out was that all male devotees have to remove their shirts or vests and keep only a white cloth or not keep anything. I don't remember this happening earlier (fancy clothing was never allowed even earlier) but maybe rules have changed. After almost an hour of push and pull situation we finally made it inside and probably got 5 seconds to get darshan before being pushed out by the guards. Over the years the temple has seen an exponential increase in devotee numbers, so there is a bit of rudeness in their attitude. Can't blame them altogether, but there must be a better solution to solve this problem. I still recall the earlier visits when we used to sit in the temple premises for few hours, have food and then go back to the hotel room which probably is not possible today (maybe there are days when there are very few people and you can still do that).

It was almost 9 by the time we came out and we heard from some people that on one of the previous nights they had to stop darshan due to the heavy rush and on one night, the sparsha darshan took 4 hrs. So we were lucky to be out in 2 hrs. Photography is not allowed in the temple premises (you can take once you are outside, but as per instructions you are not allowed to take phone. However, I saw people switching off their phones and keeping in their pockets. I don't remember seeing photography restrictions during my earlier visit, but smartphones were not there 2 decades back, so that would explain the lack of restrictions.

We came out, and went to buy some laddoos and then headed back to the hotel. There is a small restaurant in the hotel. We were tired so instead of looking for more options, ate whatever was available and then went back to our rooms, thought I would recommend skipping it if possible as the quality is actually bad.

The next morning we decided to skip the fast darshan and started our journey back to Hyderabad stopping at Sakshi Ganapati and a place called Paladhara Panchadhara. At this place there is a constant water supply coming from below the ground level and you have to take the stairs down from the main road to reach the stream level. As per locals, Adi Shankaracharya had stayed here while meditating, so there is a small temple as well. The water stream is perennial and while people used to fill their water bottles for regular use, in this visit I found people washing their feet, faces, hands as well (almost like taking a shower). We just filled up one bottle as an old custom and left from there. The way back to Hyderabad was the same route, traffic was varying and as we came closer to Hyderabad it increased as well. We had stopped for lunch at one of the restaurants on the highway, and then for some tea before reaching Hyderabad. We saw lot of Kia Carnival's and Sonet's on the way and looks like these two have become very popular in this region.

We had a train to catch the next day, so it was time to relax and get ready for the next day.

Below is the high level view of the route we followed for Srisailam.



Video of drive to Srisailam

https://youtu.be/dkTKlJ6thfk

Akkalkot Palace, where the museum is housed


Lake View From Siddheshwar Temple


some more views Siddheshwar Temple




Buildings of hyderbad


Monopole transmission towers


Dindi Dam. The road looks new, there used to be a narrow road earlier at a lower level that used to get flooded during monsoons


View of dam


Old bridge connecting AP and TS across the river


Another view


View of Dam from Ropeway starting point



Size of tea, probably smaller that cutting chai


Paladhara Panchadhara


View of the stream coming from the rocks


Another view of dam from AP side


A hotel on the TS side


Foggy and Cloudy but green view


The rocks looks like some animal, but maybe I imagined too much


On the way back Hyderabad


Hyderabad road views


Seeing Ikea in North America is nothing different than seeing a grocery store, but in India, it’s a different feeling.

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[Raghu M]

The Hilltop Mrugavani was a cool option until they started charging 5K per night. Apart from the view, the hotel maintenance has gone down. They don't give you complimentary breakfast or even water bottle. I used to stay there with family but not anymore. The reservation system is pathetic, they ask you to transfer money through gpay into their personal nos. and there is no online reservation system. You need to keep calling them about the confirmation and you won't be sure until you arrive. We were not given the reserved room on two occasions. I liked your video a lot, a little lengthy but covers pretty much everything! Thank you for the detailed write up.

[RunGaDa]

Very nice detailed travelogue, videologue. Thanks for taking the time to send this. I was almost thinking it’s my own travel itenerary when reading this. Though I am based in Hyderabad, every time I plan to travel it’s all the nearby temples, museums together.
And Hyderabad is so blessed with ORR. It’s a breeze to get on and get off without being stuck for hours to leave or enter the city.
The design is well made. The feel is as you said - world class.
Though once in a while entering the city on a weekday and traveling to hi-tech city or Kukatpally you may have to deal with lots of traffic.
Sri Sailam again brings out the memories from almost 20 years since when I relocated to Hyderabad and making frequent trips. The place has got hotter. Earlier the temps were to comfortable levels.
It’s good to know about places in and around Solapur. Even though I drive by many times to Shirdi crossing Solapur, never really took a stop there. Well except once a stay at Tuljapur.
The temple run is what I am fond of. It gives a very soothing and contending feel.

[aditya_rao]

Originally Posted by Raghu M

The Hilltop Mrugavani was a cool option until they started charging 5K per night. Apart from the view, the hotel maintenance has gone down. They don't give you complimentary breakfast or even water bottle. I used to stay there with family but not anymore. The reservation system is pathetic, they ask you to transfer money through gpay into their personal nos. and there is no online reservation system. You need to keep calling them about the confirmation and you won't be sure until you arrive. We were not given the reserved room on two occasions.

We thought of stopping at the Mrugvani to see if they have any lunch options, but our driver suggested to skip as he had heard about complaints about it in general and the high cost.

Originally Posted by Raghu M

I liked your video a lot, a little lengthy but covers pretty much everything! Thank you for the detailed write up.

Thank you. I agree its a bit lengthy, I increased the playback speeds, but couldn't get it shorter than what it is now

Originally Posted by RunGaDa

Very nice detailed travelogue, videologue. Thanks for taking the time to send this. I was almost thinking it’s my own travel itenerary when reading this.

Thank you!

Originally Posted by RunGaDa

Though I am based in Hyderabad, every time I plan to travel it’s all the nearby temples, museums together.
And Hyderabad is so blessed with ORR. It’s a breeze to get on and get off without being stuck for hours to leave or enter the city.
The design is well made. The feel is as you said - world class.
Though once in a while entering the city on a weekday and traveling to hi-tech city or Kukatpally you may have to deal with lots of traffic.

Agree, weekday traffic can be a nightmare especially with all office goers on the road.

Originally Posted by RunGaDa

Sri Sailam again brings out the memories from almost 20 years since when I relocated to Hyderabad and making frequent trips. The place has got hotter. Earlier the temps were to comfortable levels.

In general all cities have become hotter and even night time doesn't bring relief. I went in winter, can't imagine how it would be in summer.

Originally Posted by RunGaDa

It’s good to know about places in and around Solapur. Even though I drive by many times to Shirdi crossing Solapur, never really took a stop there. Well except once a stay at Tuljapur.
The temple run is what I am fond of. It gives a very soothing and contending feel.

Yes, no matter the rush, in the end it feels good.

[Kkumar]

A wonderful travelogue with beautiful photos and video. Retracing the childhood memories is a wonderful experience. Keep on munching miles.