[Mgdoodler]

Blue Rocket had plans for 2023, which 2023 decided were not to come to fruition. On charts was to travel to Khar Dung La and Kanyakumari sometime between June and Sept 2023 but due to some personal circumstances all long-distance plans were abandoned. Or so we thought.

Thanks to my cousin, who was marrying the love of his life in her city in Dec 2023. Invitations were issued and plan initially was to make a quick visit to Kolkata for a couple of days for the event itself which then turned into a week’s solo drive to Kolkata and back… and in the end, turned into a 15 day holiday with Blue Rocket travelling through 6 states and the rest of my family flew to Kolkata for wedding festivities.

As per my usual practise Blue Rocket was serviced and a checkup done 15 days before my travel and I drove it for a couple of short excursions around Mumbai.

Plan was to take the Mumbai – Nagpur – Sambhalpur – Keonjhar – Kolkata route through central India while going and return via Konark - Vishakhapatnam - Chhattisgarh - Hyderabad - Mumbai. This was my first time driving any of these routes and first time meeting Bay of Bengal. As with most of my long distance drives this was just Blue and me all the way. FYI Blue Rocket is a petrol, manual i-turbo Altroz.

Day 1- 1/12/2023 Friday

This was a day I was looking forward to the most, the opportunity to drive on the Samruddhi Mahamarg. I have already driven on the Trans Haryana and enjoyed it and was looking forward to a similar experience.

Left home at 6:45 am - much later than the planned 5:30 am, but I was ok with it as there was a mild fog and starting later allowed better visibility. Travelled across Mumbai via the SCLR and eastern express highway leaving the city behind at Thane, but not the traffic, roads were jammed due to diversions and the first couple of hours were tedious. First stop was to fill fuel at Padgha. Tank filled and the drive started towards Kasara ghat which I would be driving on for the first time and it was a good drive. Stopped for a quick breakfast at 10:30 at a restaurant after Ghoti Bhudruk at 150 kms from Mumbai and 7 kms before Bharvir entry into the Mahamarg.

The mahamarg is wide, well planned and mostly a comfortable drive. Speed Limit for cars is 120 Kmph and it is possible to maintain the same comfortably. Heavy vehicles are few and keep to the middle and left lane. It was a pleasure to drive on this route. I stopped at approximately halfway at around 3 pm for a fuel refill and bio break. I also stopped at about 1.5hrs of driving on the mahamarg for a quick photo session with Blue being the model. As you can see the weather was lovely with blue skies and fluffy white clouds – a perfect winter day for a drive and the road is practically empty.

Road surface could be better and more functional rest stops are required. Hopefully these requirements will be fulfilled soon.

It was later in the day after 4:30 pm and as we neared Nagpur, I encountered some truck traffic in the fast/overtake lane and middle lane at the same time blocking the road. But it was not for long.

Crossed Waifal toll naka at 5:30 PM, having covered 600 kms in approx. 6 hours with a 20 min break.

Winter and travel towards east meant that the sun set earlier and it was already dark as we exited the Expressway and made our way to the night stay – Hotel Pride near the airport metro.
Reached and checked in at 6:30 pm. Covering 814 kms in little less than 12 hours.

The day had not ended though. After a quick catch up with work, I headed towards the nearest Haldirams at Ajni square. Travelled by metro for 4 stops and exited just outside Haldirams. My last meal had been a protein bar along with a yogurt smoothie at 3 pm and now I feasted on Dahi Puri and hot Rajma Chawal.

Dinner done I took the metro back to my hotel and turned in for an early night.

[Mgdoodler]

Day 2 02/12/2023 Saturday

Started the day at 7:30 AM. The hotel had provided a complimentary packed breakfast and that was a life saver later in the day. A quick stop at the Zero Mile marker to mark my visit to Nagpur and another stop to fill some fuel and we were off on our adventure of the day.

Roads from Nagpur towards Kolkata are in expansion mode at least in Maharashtra. It means loads of diversions, traffic jams and careful driving. Crossed into Chhattisgarh and the roads transformed. Four laned divided good surface roads all the way. Heavy vehicle traffic sticks to the right lane by the median and left lane is left free for all fast moving and not so fast moving traffic.

Due to diversions and traffic jams until Chhattisgarh, fearing further delays I had not stopped or taken a break and snacked on the packed breakfast while waiting for jams to clear and dint stop until Durg, where I filled fuel at a Jio fuel pump at the lowest price in the entire trip. This fuel pump was manned by women and had clean washrooms. Bio break done got back on the road to proceed towards Raipur and Sambalpur. Roads post Raipur are again good and it is possible to maintain speeds of 80-90 Kmph for most. Stopped at Kesariya Dhaba about 40 Km after Raipur for a quick lunch of Dal fry and Roti. Scooted from there just after 3 pm and reached Sambalpur around 6 :30 pm. The roads within Sambalpur are terrible.

Checked in to my stay for the night at Regenta Central. Located near the railway station, it’s a decent place with secure parking and a good restaurant.
Rested a bit and then left for some shopping and walk around the market. Purchased some Sambalpuri sarees and fabrics.
Returned to the hotel for a nice dinner of chicken curry and roti. Food was good.
Was exhausted after the day and slept early.
Today covered 565 Kms in 11.30 hrs.


Blue At Zero Mile Nagpur


Day 3 03/12/2023 Sunday

I had planned this day to be an easy day with local sightseeing around Sambalpur and then night stay at Keonjhar. This was done as I wanted to reach Kolkata by 4th afternoon before my family reached.

The exhaustion of the past two days had caught up and today was a slightly slower start. Left hotel at 8:30 am driving towards the ancient temple at Huma.

The drive after leaving Sambalpur was beautiful on a two lane undivided road crossing villages and fields. The temple is built on a leaning rock which is not visible. Being Sunday there were many student groups on school and college excursion. As is often the case, this temple is infested by langoors who terrorise visitors and raid the offerings. The garbhagriha was peaceful and for those few minutes while I was the only person there I felt at peace. Although the temple has a river flowing at the back where a lot of people visit to see the fishes, I gave it a miss due to the crowds. Gave thanks and left quickly.

Next stop planned was Hirakud dam which was on the opposite side. Followed google sir and combine that with some road closures, I was promptly directed to some of the narrowest streets and a dead end. The dead end left me on a part of the Ring Road which was closed due to its proximity to the Samleshwari temple, which is undergoing beautification and expansion. This dead end was also now converted into a ad hoc weekly market with the lovely colourful woven baskets and other articles being on display, along with many other daily use articles and vegetables on sale.

This is where I met a lady police officer directing traffic who was very intrigued by a woman who was driving solo from Mumbai to Kolkata. Was a great interaction and she shared her contact nos with a promise to help me incase of any issue during my stay in Orissa. Very kind of her.
She helped me with the directions and also insisted that I visit Samleshwari Devi and seek her blessing.

The temple was on the way to my next destination so a stop was must. Parked near the temple and walked in for a visit. Samlai as she is better known was kind to me and after a good darshan I had my first meal of the day, halwa prasad.

I returned back to the hotel as checkout time was nearing and packed all my belongings and left towards Hirakud.

Gandhi Minar is where you can take the cable car to the top for viewing the dam or you can drive up to the Minar and then walk up the stair way to the Minar and viewing deck. To drive up you need to buy a ticket – Rs 50/- for Car and 25/- per person.

I parked just before the barricade and walked up to the ticket office where a gentleman was making a note of the car no and issuing tickets. My turn came and I gave my car no, on hearing MH no he looked up and then asked how many people, I replied 1. He looked up again and looked at me and then gave me a smile that lit up his entire face. It was a beautiful moment that I will savour for a very long time.

I drove up the narrow road and with some difficulty parked at the entrance. Walked up the stairs and reached the viewing platform. And what a view it was almost the entire length of the dam was visible. Spending a few minutes here I walked up to the viewing tower and climbed up to the rotating deck which was a great experience. Snacked on Masala muri and walked down to my car.

Drove down the hill and stopped for a few minutes to set the destination for Panth Niwas, Keonjhar my stay for the night.

The road to Keonjhar is part of the Mumbai Kolkata NH. The roads are 4 laned divided for most parts. The parts that pass through the jungle areas are 2 lane undivided. in some places expansion is going on so there are potholes and diversions. The 4 laned portions have good road surface and trucks / heavy vehicles mostly stick to the right lane leaving left open for cars , 2 wheelers and 3 wheelers. with good visibility again it is possible to maintain the speed limit.

The best part of this day was driving the last 1 hour or so when you are traveling through Kanjipani ghats that are 4 laned divided and good surface. This was for me the driving highlight of the day.

Also since yesterday I was driving through elephant country and had crossed many boards cautioning to look out for elephants crossing. Didn’t meet any elephants crossing and thanked my luck.

Reached Keonjhar Panth Niwas by 6 pm as the light faded for the day. I was allocated a room on the ground floor. While the location is good, the place needs maintenance and repair. The Manager was short staffed and it being a weekend the place was full. Realising that I had not had a proper meal since morning I requested for chicken pakora. Went to my room freshened up and returned to the dining area to find that it would take some time. I waited sipping on a thumps up and reading a murder mystery. My food arrived after another 30 mins.
Walked around the compound for some time. Had a light dinner of Dal, Rice and Aloo Bhaja and retired early.

Keonjhar also had the lowest night temperature of trip until now.



On our way to Huma


Hirakud Dam from the Viewing Deck


Masala Muri


Day 4 04/12/2023 Monday

Today was the day. Plan was to reach Kolkata as quickly as possible. Google maps estimated time was 8 hours.

Left just before 7 am from the hotel. The plan was to reach Kolkata before my family reached and meet them at the hotel. Drove non stop for 2 hrs plus. Stopped at a small non descript dhaba after sighting what looked like a clean washroom, which it was.

Had an aloo paratha. A revelation ... in these parts paratha is fried and served with a small portion of Dal, Pyaz and Achar. A large paratha priced at Rs 50/- filled me up for a long time.

Roads entering WB were not the best with a lot of work going on. Where the roads were okay there were barricades particularly while crossing towns, which just made the drive troublesome. This was only in WB. Had thought of stopping at Kolaghat to try the famous Sher E Punjab but was not hungry and the way the road is unless you plan you will bypass the joint. Crossed the Kolaghat Bridge and felt a little sense of achievement. Entered Kolkata in the middle of a Monday afternoon, via Howrah, Santragachi and Vidyasagar Setu reaching my hotel at Park Street by 2 pm. Traffic not withstanding that drive over Vidyasagar Setu really brought home the fact that I had driven Mumbai Kolkata solo and reached within the timing without any adverse events.

Checked in and rested for a while. Checked with family, their flight was delayed due to the storm system in Bay of Bengal. I had some time in my hand and was to meet with the taxi company we had arranged with for local travel with Kolkata and a weekend trip that rest of my family was taking to Sunderbans after the festivities. Looking at all my options I took the metro from Park Street to Baranagar station and then a share auto to my meeting. Our taxi provider had waiting the Innova and S cross that were to go to collect my family from the airport as their flight was delayed. After checking the vehicles and paying a small advance, I had planned to take an auto to Dakshineshwar. Since the cars were anyway waiting, I was offered a drop to the temple.

No mobiles or electronic items are allowed inside the temple, there are lockers and you can leave them comfortably. I was able to meet with Ma and give thanks after a wait of little over 20 mins. I didn’t have a long wait maybe due to the time I had arrived. The sky changed colour as I waited and day changed into evening.

I took the metro back to Park Street and waited for rest of my family to arrive. Dinner that night was at Trincas and the food was to every ones taste. I must thank the staff at the Trincas for they catered to all our requirements with a smile and we were very comfortable.

Aloo Paratha Breakfast


Dakshineshwar Evening


Day 5 05/12/2023 Tuesday

I was awake early and before everyone else. Not wanting to lose any time around 6:30 am, I left for a walk intending to see the Hoogly at Kolkata. Starting from Park Street, crossing the park, passing by the various football clubs which lined the Indira Gandhi Road, crossing Eden Gardens and sighting Mohun Bagan club, I reached Babu Ghat where there were many buses by private operators unloading long distance passengers arriving into Kolkata from various destinations. I then crossed the road and walked along foot path looking for an entry into the promenade which arrived at Judges Ghat. Spent some time looking at the Howrah bridge, the buildings lining the opposite bank and the ships anchored in the river. It was quiet and soothing. I turned back after spending some time here and found a yellow Amby cab to take me back.
We had earmarked the day for some sightseeing around park street area and spent time at Victoria Memorial and Princep Ghat before returning to Trincas for a late lunch.
The rest of the evening was spent with extended family at the hotel where the barat was put up.


Eden Gardens


Howrah Bridge from Judges Ghat


Day 6/7 06/12/2023-07/12//2023

Days were spent with family as the festivities began and ended the next night after all the wedding rituals were done. We all had a great time with good company and good food.

[Mgdoodler]

Return towards Mumbai

Day 8 08/12/2023 Friday

As planned I left from the hotel by 7:30 am, with the google maps indicating a 11 hr drive. Exit from Kolkata was via the Vivekananda Setu and I was confused at the exit and instead of going left toward Kharagpur I took the exit towards Delhi. Frustrated with this detour I travelled towards Dankuni and was able to take a U turn before the flyover and raced back in the correct direction.

I travelled west until Kharagpur, where I turned south. Stopped sometime around 9:30 am for a breakfast of fried Aloo Paratha, served with a side of dal, pickle and onion. This was again a Dhaba with clean washrooms and a very large parking. It was empty and I was their one and only customer. A quick call to family updating my progress and I was off again.

The roads were fairly good, four laned with divider. Traffic moderate even with diversions good progress was made. Stopped at a small Dhaba sometime after 2 PM for a quick snack break of a cola and biscuits.

Crossing Cuttack and Bhubaneshwar took time and was tiring. After the Pipili Toll Plaza at Bhubaneshwar I left he NH to go east towards Konark. The Pipili Konark road is 2 lane without dividers. With light fading and with cattle on the road my progress was slow and I reached my stay for the night OTDC Yatri Niwas at 6 PM.

The location of the Yatri Niwas is excellent with a short walk from the Sun Temple and like other OTDC’s it requires maintenance. Parking is well designed and comfortable. Room that I had booked was a Economy AC room, good for two people and generally clean.

I had a snack of Vegetable Pakora soon after checking and dinner was Eqq Curry and Chapati. Food was tasty and economical.

One of my discoveries on this sector was the massive truck mounted Light and Music setup that I had seen at a couple of places after turning towards Konark. I then had the misfortune/pleasure of seeing one in action. As I walked around the parking lot of the Yatri Niwas after dinner, I heard loud music and saw the set up in action as it accompanied a barat passing by. WOW. I have attached below the pictures I took and a video of the setup in action.


Day 9 09/12/2023 Saturday

A good night sleep and all was right in the world. I woke up early and got ready to visit the Sun temple. I had checked with the reception last night and was told that the temple would be open from 6 am.

Left the hotel before 7 am after waiting for the sun to rise. While the sun had risen it was not visible due to cloud cover. My hotel was a short walk away from the Sun Temple. Got my ticket and engaged a guide. Spent almost 1.30 hours enjoying the sculptures and design features of the temple. It is amazing what was achieved by our ancestors. Also had a chat with the guide with regards to other places in Orissa. Visiting early in the morning was a good idea as I was able to visit at my pace, as I was leaving the grounds more people were entering the premises. I also visited the ancient Navgraha Temple adjacent and gave thanks for the blessings received.

A quick breakfast back at the hotel and checked out by 9:30 am. I wanted to reach Vishakhapatnam as early as possible to view the sunset at the water front.

I drove along the sea for some time and what a lovely shore it was. As I left Konark, I drove along the Konark beach and stopped a little distance away from the crowds. The sand was warm and the waves were loud. Left after spending some time here with a promise to myself and the beach to return for an extended visit soon. A few pictures and away we turned inwards towards the Jaganath expressway which joined Bhubneshwar to Puri. Filled Fuel at a small but crowded petrol pump in at one of the best prices during this trip. The roads were through villages and good until we joined the Chennai Kolkata highway. Loved the greenery around until I reached the NH.

Then began the usual drive on the NH with Heavy vehicles on the right hugging the median and the rest going around them. Although I passed by Chilka lake, somehow I missed stopping at the view point. Stopped for a short break at a BP petrol pump after Madapam in AP around 3 PM to use the facilities and ended up filling a small qty of fuel at the highest rate during the trip.

As I neared Vishakhapatnam, the traffic increased. Turned off the highway on to the ring road and city traffic and followed google maps to my stay in Vishakhapatnam, The Park. I had chosen this hotel for its direct access to the beach and proximity to the places of interest i.e the submarine museum.
I arrived to a very chaotic entry way as there was some sale/exhibition going on at the hotel premises and there were just too many people around.
Requested the valet to park my car and checked in at just before 6 pm.

I was just too tired and overwhelmed with the crowd to venture out of my room for some time. My room on ground floor opened out to the lawns outside and further towards the beach.

After resting for some time I walked to the beach and found the gates closed for security reason and was promised it would be open in the morning.
Had an early dinner at the hotel itself and slept early hoping to catch the sunrise.


Sun Temple Konark


Sun Temple Konark


Sun Temple Full


Blue at the beach at Konark


Day 10 10/12/2023 Sunday

I woke up by 6 am, excited to watch the sun rise out of the sea, as opposed to seeing it set in the sea on the west coast. Only to be slowed by the clouds. I walked towards the beach in low light and walked down to the water. The beach here is rocky and not suitable for swimming, but the water was clear and cool. As I looked towards the horizon it was clear that the sun had risen and was hidden behind the clouds. I also noticed some ships in the sea not very far from the shore. I dint think much of it until I stepped out later in the day. The water, sands and the wind was just perfect and I reluctantly walked back to the hotel for breakfast.

Today was my rest day so took it easy after breakfast and had a nap. Left hotel at Noon and walked out to barricades manned by Naval Police, on the road outside the hotel leading towards the Submarine museum. On asking around I was informed that the Navy Day display was postponed due to the storm earlier in the week and would be held today with the show expected to start around 4:30 pm. All along the beach in the sands were barricades so that the people from Vishakhapatnam could have a ring side view to the display planned. Now the point of the ships I saw in the morning became clear. The entire road was clear of vehicles and had an atmosphere of joy and fun. Like visiting a Fair. I saw groups of young men dressed in traditional pyjama, short kurta and a scarf and a tilak. Each group had its own colour and ages varied from young boys to older men. I would guess that each group was from a particular locality, neighbourhood or village. The colours were so rich and each one was distinct from the others. I regret not having taken a picture.

I walked along the promenade towards the museum and found that I was late and they were closed for lunch. The weather was just right for a walk with the sun shining bright and so I walked ahead crossing the TU museum on the opposite side and the Sea Harrier museum too all closed for lunch. They would now open at 2 pm. Stopped to have an icecream at the Amul shop and then turned around back towards the submarine museum.

You can buy a combined ticket to visit all the three museums and that’s what I did. Photography inside is not allowed. The history of the submarine and the story of it being mounted at the location as the museum is put up on a board opposite the ticket counter.

The walk through the submarine is fascinating to say the least. The walkway is narrow and its difficult to stop and stare with other groups in the same place. Salute the Submariners who spend time in such conditions. Followed this with a visit to the TU museum where you can get an audio guide for your walk through the museum. It was very informative display with a lot of information regarding the uniforms, armaments, location of various personal on board etc. It was fun to walk into the aircraft. The third museum was the Sea Harrier museum and a had internals of the engine on display and this for me was the most fascinating part of the display.

I knew I was on a time limit as I wanted to get back to my hotel lawns to be able to watch the Navy day display. The walk back was with a quick stop to try the Masala muri.

Back at the hotel, I walked to the lawn area adjoining the beach to find other guests waiting for the display to start. And what a start it was with the helicopter flypast, bomb detonations etc and then came the planes flying in various formation. We had just recovered from that and we saw movement in the sea with the high speed boats carrying out various manoeuvres, followed by the sub marines popping up and moving along the shore. Loud cheers were heard all along the shore. The atmosphere electric and then the whir whir of the helicopter followed by the whine of the aircraft engines, the flypast passing directly over us had us craning our necks as we followed the progress from north to south end of the beach. The crowd breathless with anticipation and then began the dance of the warships as they moved parallel to the beach crossing each other and then the finale as the sun went down, the ships were light up like it was Diwali and they showcased some more artillery which lit up the sky.

What an evening it was. I was relaying all this to my whatsapp group of friends and another with my cousins, just thanking my luck of being in the right place at the right time.

Later that night took a walk along the food street just across from the hotel to enjoy a chicken soup, tomato bhajji and millet dosa.

The night ended with an icecream from one of the cycle cart places.



Sun Rise at Vishakhaptnam


Submarine Museum


TU prop


Arial Display


Ships in the Harbour


Tomato Bhaji

[Mgdoodler]

Day 11 11/12/2023 Monday

While planning this trip I wanted to use the entire week and not rush back home. I had looked at the map to check how I could use the time to experience parts of the country where I had not yet ventured. And Chattisgarh looked like a possibility.

I had planned to travel to Araku and then from there to Chitrakote and then onward from there towards Mumbai. This was the basic plan. I had booked a night stay at Dandami resort at Chitrakote for Tuesday night but had no other bookings done for this part of the trip.

I had not booked my night stay as I was not sure how I wanted to proceed. Another friend had suggested that since I was in the area I should visit Kotumsar caves between Jagdalpur and Dantewada.

This meant tweaking my plans somewhat and staying the night at jagdalpur as that would give me a full day to visit all the attractions and reach my night stay at Chitrakote before evening.

I had requested the hotel to provide a small packed breakfast as I would be leaving early and was not sure of the facilities I would be able to access along the way. They came through and this was really a blessing for me on this day. They had packed a couple of grilled veg and cheese sandwhiches and few cupcakes and cookies.

Leaving at 7 am, I followed google maps to get out of the city and join the Vishakhapatnam araku highway. Thanks to google ji I was taken through some really good roads towards Simachalam, that then turned into really small village roads and then finally connected to the main NH before I turned right under the highway. This is a mostly undivided 2 lane highway passing through densely populated areas and then you are on the foothills and climbing up. Work to widen this road is going on but will take some time. I had mapped for Bora caves and each turn on this ghats was exhilarating, exciting and enjoyable. At some points where the roads widened there were stalls with people selling food items. I drove up and took the right turn towards Bora caves and also noticed that there was no signal on any of my mobiles. Eesh. The excitement of reaching bora caves kept me going. I reached the parking lot at 10 am. Its is a short walk from the parking lot up to the ticket counter and entrance. On both sides there are shops set up for food and usual touristy knickknacks and handicrafts.

Adjacent to the entrance there was a flying fox setup for crossing the river at Rs 500/- . Being short of time and having plans to reach Jagdalpur by evening, I moved on to the caves.

There are also clean toilets provided just inside the entrance.
Monkeys are every where and heeding the various warnings I was not carrying anything in my hands. After a short walk I came across a group of guides and fixed a price of Rs 200/- for his assistance. The steps leading down to the caves are big and may be difficult for elderly. The caves are well lit although I would have preferred if the lights were not multicoloured. There are three levels to the caves and the entrance lands you on the middle level. We proceeded to the lower level first. The steps are wet due to continuous seepage of water and its better to be cautious. There is a railway line that passes over the caves and there is a marker on the lowest point.
I spent an hour within the caves and was fascinated by the various formations. At the top level you can see the hole on the top of the mountain, and when you look up, with the sun light shining through the hole surrounded by plants, its like may be how the mammoths felt in the ice age movie when they enter the caves and find a lost world of dinosaurs. From the top level there is a smaller ladder that would take you up towards one more chamber which has been set up as a temple with a shiv linga formed naturally. The ladder was narrow and not confidence inspiring and I decided to give it a miss in view of not taking chances considering the rest of my travels.

I thanked my guide for having pointed out the various formations, took some more pictures of the surroundings and walked back and out of the gate. I treated myself to fresh coconut water and then did some retails therapy in the form of painted wooden dolls and other wooden handicrafts for home. Although I would have liked to have breakfast none of the food stalls were operational.

By the time I reached the parking area, it had become crowded with many groups arriving and it was complete chaos. I quickly reversed out of my spot and started my journey out. In a few minutes I was out of the area and piling traffic. Stopped at clearings by the roadside and had a sandwich before proceeding further.

Remember my earlier mention of not having network, I had hoped that it would solve it self if I reached Araku but no that dint happen and google maps was not working. I had anticipated this and saved this as a shortcut on my phone. Unfortunately I still needed network for it to work. But yes no network and the roads in Araku town were under going expansion and repairs and I just could not find it in me to stop and try to find a place to get an additional sim for data. I did remember the key towns along the way and the fact that very soon after crossing Araku, we should cross into Orissa.
There is a point on this road where the road forks the right going towards Jeypore and Jagdalpur and the left which is slightly broader and seems to be better going back towards Vishakhaptnam via Paderu. This road is being broadened and when finished would be a pleasure to drive on.

The me without google maps and with no road markings took that left .. yup the one that would bring me back to Vishakhapatnam. I crossed a railway crossing and then some wide good roads and very little traffic and then some roads that needed diversions…. No worries I think I am going in the right direction…. Travelling almost 25 kms…. When I started realising that I am not seeing any Orissa vehicles, all plates are AP….. with very little traffic and it being afternoon not many people I could ask directions. In a few minutes I came across a gentleman who was waiting on his parked bike, scrolling through his phone. Language barrier but a mix of Hindi and English helped clear my doubts…yes I had messed up and was heading in the wrong direction and had travelled about 30 kms and now had to go back. Thanked him, turned around and started the trek back. There was another restaurant /store about 10 kms from the point now in the direction I was travelling and I stopped here and reconfirmed the directions I had got and also treated my self to a chilled cola

Now began the race to get back in the correct direction and to make up for the lost 1.5 hrs. The roads towards Jeypore were two laned tar roads passing through rural areas with very little traffic. I stopped at a petrol pump in Orissa to fill fuel and then non stop until Jeypore. As I entered Jeypore … still no network and the roads going into the city seemed to be under repairs. So I did the most natural thing again. Parked to one side and stopped asked directions. I was guided to take the bypass by taking a right at the junction we were at and then a left and then another left would get me out of the city and on the jagdalpur highway. Many thanks given and I was on my way.
The roads hereon were broader and better. Some more traffic but again towns marked and distance to my destination was marked on big unmissable sign and that gave me hope. I had still not booked my hotel for the night and that was another thing that I knew I had to deal with in some time. But I was intent on getting into Jagdalpur at the earliest as in the back of mind there was this little ball of fear that I was in unknown territory with no network and alone. The sun was setting and it was not yet 5pm and I was still some distance away. As I crossed into Chhattisgarh I passed small groups of men in uniform standing along the road looking at the vehicles passing and while it didn’t strike me then… they were checkpoints being setup as in a couple of days Chhattisgarh govt was going to be sworn in. I was not stopped but that added to my anxiety. I stopped at the outskirts of Jagdalpur and called a couple of hotels that I had shortlisted a day earlier and my first two choices which were closer to the main market area were not available and so I called and found a room at another hotel which was slightly out of the main area but still at a comfortable walking distance from all that I wanted to visit. Fortunately at this point I had got network and with that google maps was back and helped me reach my hotel. I checked in and got one of their last rooms.

I freshened up and had a small snack and walked towards that main market area. At the first phone shop I came across I purchased a Jio sim. No more taking chances considering I was planning a more remote excursion tomorrow.

I walked towards the Danteshwari temple and gave thanks for the experiences of the day and the guidance and grace I had received.

Asked around and was recommended Hotel Akansha for a good vegetarian meal. I walked there enjoying the town and had their mini thali which was a lot for me. I walked back to my hotel which was a short walk away.


Bora Caves

[Mgdoodler]

Day 12 12/12/2023 Tuesday

The morning started well with a quick breakfast at the hotel. The plan was to see as much as possible before reaching Chitrakore for Night stay. Kotumsar Caves, Tirathgarh Falls, Danteswari Temple at Dantewada and The Chandra Aditya temple at Barsur.

I headed out of Jagdalpur and filled fuel. The Jagdalpur Geedam road was broad 4 lane highway with truck traffic as this road further connects to Hyderabad. As usual google ji had to take me through some really small roads when there was a quick clean access to the main road.

At about 15 kms from Jagdalpur you take a left to the road going towards Sukma. It’s a 2 lane small road and after 10 kms you reach a forest check post which is open and then here the road becomes narrower and passes through a jungle and is ghat like and after 2 kms you come to the a board on you left indicating Kanger National Park.

I stopped here and asked the forest officials if I could take my car until the caves. They told me that I could take my car for a further 5 kms or so where I would reach the booking post where I could park my car and take a gypsy for further travel to Kotumsar Caves and would have to have a guide.
So Blue Rocket drove on mud tracks through the jungle for 5 kms and what an experience it was. The mud tracks are red mud and firm and okay for a small car at least as long as the weather was dry. I don’t think it will be okay during rains.

An earlier start had ensured that there were very few people on this excursion. My guide was an excellent. He was from the surrounding village and this training had allowed him to stay local and earn a decent living.
The drive from this Booking post to Kotumsar Caves is approx. 30 mins with a stop at the Kanger Dhara.

I requested to be seated in the front passenger seat as I had the entire gypsy to myself. What fun it was.

The entrance to the cave is small and the steps are large and intimidating. There is no external lighting provided inside the cave and all natural light disappears the moment you step inside the cave. The entrance in almost vertical. Not for the faint of heart. Although I did meet quite a few senior citizens travelling in a group who had just finished visiting as I reached and another group that reached there as I was leaving.

The walkway inside is defined and the guide carries a large torch. That combined with mobile torch is the only source of light once you move into the cave. There are multiple sections mostly in a linear line. Each section has multiple formations of interest. As you move up down and ahead, you reach approximately midway into the cave and if you look back with the light shining its like you are inside a giant snake, with the undulations of the rocks. While the cave system is longer, you come to halt a couple of meters from the last large stalagmite formation which is worshipped by the locals. The entry to this stalagmite and beyond is blocked by a bamboo fence, to prevent people from touching it and also further the cave system become smaller and more difficult. The entry to this area is allowed once a year and then too to the local villagers only.

There are quite a few stalagmites which seemed to have stopped forming even as the water continues to drip from the stalactite and in natural course of time these would have joined forming a pillar. As the guide explained this is due to the somebody – a human having touched the stalagmite which somehow has altered the chemistry and it has stopped growing. Now the forest department actively barricades/fences the newer formations using bamboo/natural materials to prevent people from touching. There is also another branch of the cave system that is on the upper level which goes even longer and is closed to public as the access is difficult.

Having reached the end, we turned around and walked couple of meters back and requested the other group in the cave at the time to also switch off all their light sources. The effect was complete pitch black the likes of which I have never encountered ever. You cannot see anything not even you own hand in front of you. Very unsettling if you have not prepared for it and it was to have been done without informing you. It was for a very short time of less than 5-7 minutes and just as you begin to adjust to the feeling, the lights are switched on. My guide was insistent that more than this would be disorienting. On the walk back towards the entrance, I was shown the blind fish, devoid of any colour that is found only in this cave system. The exit was not easy as you have to climb up the stairs vertically and sort of twist yourself out of the caves.

Overall was it exciting, thrilling, challenging, interesting – hell yes. Will I do it all over again – for sure. But this is not for you if you have claustrophobia.

Between the two - Bora Caves and Kotumsar Caves if I had to choose one it would be Kotumsar Caves simply because of the way it is preserved without the interference of artificial lighting and the challenge of entry/exit. It has helped preserve it. At Bora caves with the lighting and ease of access its like visiting a amusement park with people and kids running around and loud sounds. Kotumsar is more peaceful and I would have stayed longer if I dint have to visit more places today.

I spent about an hour within the caves and the sunlight was welcoming. We returned back to the booking area, where they organise a dance by the local villagers and also sell the local food, alcohol and produce. I enjoyed the Mandya pej ( a gruel of Ragi and rice water), along with a potato sabji which was flavoured with ginger garlic and chillies and very yumm. I also enjoyed a protion of hot aloo bhajiya with a chuntey prepared with tomatoes, chilles and garlic, similar to salsa also very yumm. These stalls are run be local ladies. You could also request your guide/driver to arrange a simple meal of Dal Rice and vegetables if you want to have lunch here for a cost. Also local produce like cucumbers, bananas, bor etc are sold.

I drove back to the main road and crossed over to the road going towards Tirathgarh falls. I drove slowly enjoying and reached Tirathgarh in about 45 mins.

Even as you approach the falls the sound can be heard you can see a little bit from the approach road then you cross the river and drive some more to reach the parking area. The ticket purchased for the Kotumsar caves includes your visit to Tirathgarh falls. Otherwise it’s a small fee that you pay and enter. Along the path there are shops selling food, drinks and fruits.
The roar of the falls captures you as you walk towards the entrance. Its mesmerising, at least for me it was. I had reached around 1 pm and even with the sun overhead there was some crowd. I walked around and climbed up towards the ancient temples to look at the falls. Then came back to the base of the falls to just sit there and absorb the sounds. It is an experience is all I can say. A few photos and recordings later I walked back to the top, as the crowd was coming in.

There are washrooms located near the ticket office which are clean and useable.

Moved out from here towards Dantewada as I wanted to visit the Danteshwari temple. The drive was through smaller villages and I rarely crossed any vehicle along this road. The scenery was very soothing.
There is some major work being carried out to create a large ornate entrance to the Danteshwari temple and you have to walk from the sides. There are shops selling offerings and prasad along this path. I was able to spend some time giving thanks.

It was now past 3 pm and I still had to visit Barsur – the site of a ancient shiv temple that I was keen to visit. As per google maps that would take me an hour from Dantewada. The roads everywhere are good, not wide but good surface. I reached here by 4:30 pm. A quick visit and I was off taking a more interior route towards my night stay at Chitrakote. I was anxious as the route I was taking was going through jungles and very lonely and with the sunset approaching I wanted to get to my destinations without any delay.

I did reach my nighstay Dandami Resort by about 6 PM with the sunlight going out. I was staying at the wooden cottage and once I checked in and walked out to the deck I wasn’t going anywhere. I could see and hear the falls from the deck. My day had tired me out, a quick snack of vegetable bhajia and an early dinner of chicken curry and rotis was served and enjoyed in the room. The service was very good for me. The location is top notch, room quality and amenities are value for money and I would happily spend more time here again.

I slept really well with the sound of the waterfall acting as a lullaby.


Road Leading to Kotumsar


Entrance to Kotumsar


Kotumsar


Kotumsar no way out


New Formations


You can only see where the torch shines


Outside the caves


Tirathgarh falls

[Mgdoodler]

Day 13 13/12/2023 Wednesday

I woke up early, to a mist/fog engulfing the entire view in front of me and spent a long time on the deck for the view to clear.

A vegetarian breakfast is included in the tarrif. You have a choice of Poha, Upma, Idli. I checked out by 10 am after breakfast and moved to the parking area near the falls. Walked to the viewing area and then walked down to the boating area.

I hired a boat for Rs 400/- for a short ride. I commend the boats men, there are two to each boat who row the boat toward the falls in the opposite direction of the flow and then bring you back to the shore making a big circle. Its just too good of an experience. Of course you have to wear the life jacket. I enjoyed every minute of it.

Back on the shore, I made a quick move to Blue Rocket and we were off.
As the I had waited earlier in the morning I had checked and rechecked the route to Hyderabad and the travel time was atleast 10 hours. Not wanting to be on the road for too long after dark, I had looked at options for stopping along the way should it become necessary and I had identified Warangal as a potential stop.

I started from Chitrakote by about 11 am and the roads up to the NH 63 were small 2 lane good quality tar road passing through villages and lovely scenery. It was very peaceful. NH 63 is 2 lane undivided highway crossing towns and villages. I had not realised until the day before that today was the swearing in ceremony of the new government of Chhattisgarh. I do not know if it was due to this or if it is routine along this highway atleast until Bijapur in Chhattisgarh I came across checkpost manned by CRPF. The first few I was not stopped. But then it happened I think I was close to Geedam not sure of the exact location. I was stopped, details of my car and myself noted in a register along with my destination. The gentleman taking down this information was polite. A few minutes stoppage and I was let go without much enquiry. Then came the next checkpost after about another 30 mins or so where I was stopped and let go without any interaction. Then came the third one in a little while, I was the last vehicle in a sort of convoy of couple of other cars going at a decent speed, when they stopped suddenly and I had to apply brakes and was stopped on the road. Not an ideal situation as I prefer to stop on the shoulder. But any ways…. I was approached by 3 CRPF personnel. As is my habit I stepped out of my car. They asked for my destination and were puzzled to see a MH vehicle in Chhattisgarh on its way to Hyderabad. They also wanted to check the boot, which I opened while chatting with them. They were surprised to hear that I had travelled from Mumbai to Kolkata and now was on my way back and solo. Told them travelling solo was no problems and Thanked them before moving ahead.

The rest of the route was mostly uneventful. This route was interesting, as you exit Chhattisgarh you cross through Maharashtra for a distance of about 60 kms and this is the worst road surface on this entire route. It felt good to see MH Vehicles for a short time. Google ji tried to route me to a road that would pass over a dam, as I turned following a two wheeler, another two wheeler coming from that direction looked at me a little puzzled and that stopped me and them. They cautioned me that although Google ji would like me to take this route, the road ahead is broken and I would not be able to cross the river. I thanked them, it was very kind of them to have helped me and I reversed out of the turn and sped on my way.

The sun was setting and Hyderabad was still 4 hrs away. Not an ideal situation and the road surface and width did not give me much confidence of being able to drive with dippers blasting into my eyes. I was 60-40 in favour of stopping at Warangal as I would reach be around 6:30 pm. Then a near miss that happened convinced me to stop at Warangal for the night.

As I joined the Hyderabad Highway, the road got worse with heavy truck traffic and road works. I somehow managed to get into Warangal and got a hotel room. Some rest, some rerouting and the plan for next two days was cleared up.

Now that it was clear that I would not be stopping at Hyderabad, I took the opportunity to walk to a nearby Paradise Biryani outlet for a biryani fix. Walked back to the hotel with a stop for some ice cream.

The hotel Suprabha at Warangal location wise is good, with good parking. The rooms though need maintenance and upgrade for the prices charged.


Chitrakote Morning


View from the room


From the view point at the falls


From the Boat


Last view

[Mgdoodler]

Day 14 14/12/2023 Thursday

Woke up rested. Had checked last night and decided to visit the Bhadrakali Temple before leaving Warangal.

Breakfast was included in the tariff and was adequate to start the day. Checked out, drove to the temple and had a good darshan. Thanks given for the blessings and grace received. I drove out of the city joining the Bypass which connected me to Hyderabd highway, 4 laned with divider, barricaded service lanes when passing through towns and cities.

While toying with maps last night I had seen “Ponchampalli”. The siren call was heard and I planned to make the detour and purchase some lovely sarees here.

With a small detour just at the outskirts of Hyderbad I drove on small village roads to reach the Main road, MG road at Bhoodan Ponchampalli, which had many many shops selling Ikat sarees, dresses etc.

I stopped at a smaller store where I found parking and walked inside only to walkout after having spent all my cash, very happy with the choices and quality of sarees I was able to purchase. I had spent about 1.5 hrs here and now ready to leave and experience the ORR.

As I left, google maps in all its wisdom decided to take me through a narrow road, with dried shrubs on sides. I came across a herd of sheep that was crossing the road. Taking a chance I moved to one side and quickly crossed the herd while keeping an eye out for any sudden movements.

As soon as I had crossed this patch, I heard a scrapping sound coming from under the car. There was another vehicle following me and a motorcycle too. There was no way I could have stopped immediately but I could see the road widening ahead so drove ahead and parked to one side. Stepped outside and took a walk around, could not see anything stuck to the car. Puzzled I got back and started the car…. No noise, moved forward …. Noise is there… reversed no noise… humm. Once again I got down and knelt in front of the car and bent down to check and saw a branch had got stuck in the undercarriage. It under the front passenger seat and the way I was parked I could not access that area from the left side. It was also not possible to reach it from the front. So having no other way I knelt down and stretched my hand under the car got a grip on branch and pulled it out with ease. Tossed it into the shrubs on the side of the road and started the car and moved keeping an ear open for any abnormal sounds. In a few minutes it was clear that there are no more problems and off we were towards ORR.

Drove on the ORR for about 60 Kms. What a road what an experience. As a Mumbaikar I want our highways to be like this.

Exited the ORR and landed in a mess as there were diversions, road blocks, too much traffic until you leave Hyderabad behind. Stopped around 3 pm for a quick light lunch at a dhaba and got back on the road. I also used this time to book a hotel room at Solapur close to Siddheshwar temple.

Evening decended quickly and the roads had diversions and traffic. Stopped at a petrol pump to fill Fuel, adjust to the changed lighting and off we went running to Solapur.

Reached hotel by about 7 pm, parked, checked in and quickly freshened up. Walked to the nearest ATM to withdraw some money and then walked to the Siddeshwar Temple. I had visited it in 2018 and had really liked the atmosphere here. The experience was once again similar. Spent some time here and walked back towards my stay.
Stopped on the way to purchase some fresh jowar kernel ( Hurda in marathi) for home. Had dinner at Sugran Thali and got back for an early night.
I was on homestretch now and would be back home tomorrow.


Day 15 15/12/2023 Friday.

Woke up early and as planned left the hotel at 7:30 am.

Plan was to stop at Theur Chintamani Ganpati temple and meet a friend at Hinjewadi area before making my way home.

Leaving Solapur behind we had little traffic and okay roads. It’s a four lane divided highway with the usual issues of diversions, slow traffic while going through towns. The traffic increased as we neared Pune.

I was enjoying my drive and was on track for keeping times when I had an unusual encounter. I crossed the Sardewadi Toll plaza at around 9 am. As soon as I crossed the barrier, I was stopped by a police man. I was puzzled as I was sure that I had not crossed the speed limit as I had approached the toll plus I had a MH no plate. I cleared the lane and stopped next to the police man and rolled down the window. On my left was a TS plate Innova with the driver and a Sr gentleman standing next to it. The police man asked for my license and registration, I asked him what happened and as I opened the glovebox to access my bag for it, he said do you have it, he was all the time looking at the Innova during this interaction and I knew he was trying to get his pocket filled by those guys. I felt bad for the Innova and tried to play it down and asked the police man if I could show him digital copies. No he wanted the physical ones the plastic card types. Not having an option I handed over my license and registration to him and heard him chew out the Innova guys telling them this is what you will find for all MH cars, why do we have this paper crap for cars from AP and TS. He turned back to me and handed back my license and registration and then showed me a tattered laminated copy of the license which the Innova Driver had handed him. I kept my documents back and asked the police man if he had stopped me just so that he could show off and chew those guys out. For a second he has taken aback that I was questioning him. He then smirked and offered me tea for my troubles. I told him Thank you but No I have an appointment for which I am now running late thanks to you. Gender coupled with streaks of gray hair lets you have some advantage.

I drove off feeling bad for the Innova group and laughing at the incredulous behaviour of the Police man.

Diverted off the Pune Solapur Highway towards Theur and reached the parking area by 11 am.

Walked to the temple and waited in the queue for a short time and had a peaceful darshan was able to sit in the presence of the divine for some time.
I walked out into a bustling market and picked up some fresh fruit and vegetables for home, enjoyed a spicy missal pav for brunch.

I started towards Hinjewadi, taking the Katraj bypass to join the Mumbai Bangalore Highway. Met my friend and then started for Mumbai around 5 PM.
It was a straight drive home through the traffic and by the time I parked it was almost 10 pm.

Too tired to check the odo for the final reading, I took a picture the next day.

Blue and I had travelled just over 5000 KMs in these 15 days.



If you have read until here I hope you will visit some of the places mentioned here.

Thank you

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[SafariMan]

WOW. wonderful solo Travelogue. Have done many many Mumbai - Kolkata - Mumbai pre covid. This one beats all. Seen things change so rapidly. My first trip many years ago was very nervy and stopped for the night around Lodashuli. We all have so bravely moved on from that. Gets a newer perspective. Way to go.keep driving keep exploring.

[Ashwin Morey]

Lovely travelogue! The info about caves is very helpful, unlike beaches and mountains and forest safaris, I think caves have been inherently neglected and don't receive the kind of attention the others do. The caves you mention look very noteworthy. Vaguely remember another travelogue that had mentioned Caves in the same region.

Some of the names and routes you mention were perhaps Naxal hotbeds at one time (Dantewadi i guess). Did you research about Naxal affected regions while planning your routes?

Surprised that police still demand for paper licenses (laminated or not), the whole idea of mParivahan app was to have your docs in digital format!

[AniChaudhuri]

Kudos to you, Ma'am!

[Jordygt500]

This travelogue is amazing and doing it solo is remarkable. I can't get my better half to do the grocery shopping solo.

[I_m_the_fuel]

Fantastic travelogue and can only imagine how exciting this would have been! Well articulated too. Thanks for sharing!!!

[Neversaygbye]

This is one of the best travelogues I've read on the forum. You really covered a lot of ground and it was fascinating to read about and see pics of many of the places in central India that I had only read about in books previously. It was also interesting to see Calcutta through your eyes. I love Trincas myself especially with its live music and I'm glad that they lived up to their reputation. I was intrigued by the episode with MH police though - as mentioned by others, it's strange that they are still asking for physical documents in this day and age.

On a different note, I admire your courage to do cross country solo trips as a woman. Kudos. What was heart warming is that it came through that people were in general supportive and the men did not behave in a chauvinistic fashion. In fact I have shared your TL with many women I know who drive or know how to drive. Hopefully your TL will also inspire them to make solo trips in future!

[d2krish]

Wonderfully written with all the details. Sometimes, while reading, it seemed me traveling through. I drove through the roads from Raipur to Kolkata through Kanjipani ghat road. That time the 4 lane highway was getting constructed, with lots of broken sections and diversions. Hopefully by now the road would be much better. And honestly, that section is indeed very scenic. Thanks for writing it so beautifully. Feeled like sharing a snap captured from that tour...