We started at 0700 hrs in the morning, the French were already in the vehicle when we were picked up from the hotel. There are two ways towards Nubra Valley. You can either go from the old taxi stand or pass from the Changspa village road and move towards the Road leading to south Pullu. South Pullu is an army check post where the vehicles halt, register and wait for the military to give a go ahead. Just like Jozi La or other passes, traffic is one way. Since it had snowed heavily the earlier day, roads were cleared for the traffic to return to normalcy with snow evident on the either sides of road. At south Pullu, we had opportunity to click some pictures and buy quick bites for the journey ahead. In a dingy shack with no light,and people screaming at the top of their voices, to be heard/served first, we successfully managed to get out the place with the shopping. The French(Olivier) had never seen something(shop) like this before. It started drizzling, meanwhile among the rumours that the Pass won't open today, we also had an chance to see a helicopter trying to land close by. He almost did, and took off before touching the ground. He would quickly hover and try landing again, to miss by inches. This repeated four times before he returned to the base. I assume it was just a military training exercise or he was a really bad pilot.
Finally we were shown the green light. The kilometre long lined vehicles scrambled to push their way in, breaking lanes. Like school kids pushing through a small gate, after school. snowflakes started settling on the windscreen, added to my excitement. At 39, I still carry that curiosity in my eyes, like that of a five year old when excited, it helps me learn more. finally we could see the 'top', Khadung La. It was nice to see people jostling and pushing to get a solo photo with that yellow sign board, standing in all it's glory announcing that you have reached/achieved, 'World's Highest Motorable Pass'. Some of them will turn around back and go to Leh after this achievement, rest will carry on. I hopped in to the souvenir shop besides the Shiv Temple and bought that Beer Mug, with Khardung La printed on it. Weather at that point of time did not permit us to stay out of the vehicle for long, unlike those soldiers with those special outfits and snow shoes, they really looked handsome. " Let's go", announced Issah in a commanding voice, the weather wasn't very promising and he had doubts if we could cross without getting stuck in an avalanche or something worse. I still made him stop on the way to play in snow, solo. Rest chose to stay indoors. The so called (road) dirt track had become worse, with snow turning in to water under the wheels that came crushing it. I pitied those labourers, sitting on the sides of the roads, covering their faces with scarves from the biting cold and glares on the nose, waiting to clear any snow on the road.
These were the heroes, who keep the pass up and running.
Browns started emerging, altitude dropped. We could see the landscape taking a different shape altogether. First stop Diskit Monastery.(
Diskit & Hundur Gompa - Diskit & Hundur Monastery Ladakh India - Diskit and Hundur Monastry Ladakh) We didn't spend much time in there. Like I said, didn't mean too much for us. Quickly I read through the daily routine of the novice monks, few clicks and off we go. Diskit was the village. I had heard a lot about the double humped camel rides. Excitement grew as we neared the place. I don't have words to explain the landscapes. So much diversity in this land called India. I call it another Europe with 29 states as it's countries. The moment we reached near the double humped mammals, my excitement died down instantly. the fur from most of them had worn out. they looked in a pretty bad shape, overworked and underfed. 300 INR for a fifteen minute ride and nothing to hold on to. Not even a saddle in place. The animals had some cloth tied at their backs and ropes through their noses, pulled by the caretakers. In my presence, three incidences of people falling off occurred creating a trouble among the 'camelwalas' and a group of boys from Mumbai. One of them seriously hurt his back, camel kicking repeatedly on the arm, as well. A couple of pictures and we decided to move ahead.
Accommodation was next on cards. Issah showed us a compound with tents at 1200 INR. Bargaining session brought it down to 1000. I wasn't satisfied. We decided to see more. I guessed the white skins with us made the prices shoot up. Next stop, we found the tents at 300 INR fora night. The French were made to sit inside the car, it worked. There is one more popular way of stay in Ladakh which is 'home stays'. A local Ladakhi would welcome you in their home and offer you accommodation and food from his kitchen at 150-300 INR approx. Hitch, no western toilet facility. But if you want to know the Ladakhi way of life, that is the way. Not good for me. I chose to stay in another place with room and attached toilet @ 500 INR. Hot water on demand. Electricity was 'now you see me now you don't' kind. You would not have seen as many stars in you life, as you would see in a clear night in Nubra. It's an amazing sight, just out of the world.
Chit chat with other inmates of the place continued when I found Olivier feeling bored and out of place. We decided to go for a walk and his lady didn't want to stay either. somehow these guys find us to loud while we chat. Armed with torches, we walked about a kilometre and half to know that we can't find the way 'home' and will have to turn around and go back the same way we came. The three of us somehow managed to run back to shelter, wet and cold. Dinner was exceptionally good, we thought. In the morning, we started at 0830 towards Panamik. The last village accessible to foreigners. a few kilometres ahead starts the Siachin Glacier. Panamik is a hot spring. rich in sulphur, yellow mud, evident of the minerals in this warm water spring. It was time, we moved towards North Pullu to make it in time for Leh. On the way, I stopped to collect round black stones to decorate my fish tank. No matter how much I try, words cannot replace the photos attached, more than that, a personal visit.
Mangled remains of a commercial vehicle once again reminded of the difficult terrain we were in. Next stop Pangong Tso.
19th July 2010, 15:39
