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Old 1st October 2012, 15:00   #511
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I wouldnt drop it straight to 7, go up in steps and see whats comfortable, 7 is very aggressive almost track ready setup, i'm just used to that and the roads i ride on are mostly good. Havent taken the duke to MMSC yet..Kari track yes i've done a little testing initially when the bike was launched, will be going down sometime with my bike, stock bike should lap around 1min 20sec

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Old 1st October 2012, 16:33   #512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rahulkool View Post
What is the default setting of rear suspension, i have not changed it but rear suspension feels ok, not too hard or soft. Front suspension is little stiff but i like it rather than the sea saw effect on braking which happens in most of the bikes. I weight around 80kg. Never rode with a pillion, maximum 50kms in total 4500kms i have done till now.
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Originally Posted by Killer View Post
Mine was on 4 when i bought it, i guessing its the same for others. Dont have to change anything if it doesnt affect your riding, but in my opinion the stock setting is good only for offroad riding
I think the default setting is 3 (1 being the softest).

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Originally Posted by Killer View Post
I weigh 72kgs. Yup you can vary between those for different terrain, when i did the orange day i used '6 as the track was very bumpy and primarily slow speed turns but i find that too soft for road. In general I ride strictly asphalt and so have set it up for that and high speed cornering. You also dont want to rake up the preload too much, it will leave you with almost zero static 'sag' and thats not a good thing. .if you set up the duke so specifically for one terrain, you WILL loose out on another.
Yup you're right. For me its basically a compromise setting between tarmac and off-road. I still feel I was slightly more comfortable with 5 than the present 6. Will try going back and check.
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Old 8th October 2012, 12:56   #513
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The shift problem is apparently due to the Igus Bush Bearing.

Igus Bush Bearing.doc

It needs to be checked, cleaned, adjusted, and lubricated.

No mis-shifts yet after that was done during the second service.

Left fork seal and dust boot was also replaced.

The fork top nut is aluminum, and pretty soft, so that was pretty scuffed up when I got the bike back.

The speedo MID and rear shocker spring replacement will be done only when they actually have a solution that works - which is not the case presently.

The chain seems to have developed excessive stretch in one segment (links) over the other. So adjusting it perfect in the "stretched" section makes it too tight in the "normal" section, and vice versa.

So we went ahead and adjusted it by my method (just a little give while seated and suspension loaded) in the tightest section, which meant that its got more give than is otherwise ok in the loosest section, but in case of a chain its always better to err on the side of too loose than too tight. Too tight means not only quickly worn out chain and sprocket, but equally faster wear of the mch more expensive transmission bearings. Not to mention inadequate working of the rear suspension, and some loss in pickup due to transmission loss / resistance.

Some of the links are "frozen" as well. That is, when they come off the rear sprocket, they are not aligned straight in the line of the chain, but are slightly misaligned/kinked and need to be straightened by hand.

My chain has been maintained more often than the suggested 500 km interval. Cleaned and lubed and adjusted, trying to get rid of the slap in the early days. So its not as if its been neglected or run dirty/dry ever.

If at all, only a couple of times its come back adjusted too tight (per the "manual recommended" specs) and I have immediately had it re-adjusted per my comfort level.

The Bajaj guys are looking into this, as it should not be happening in a chain-sprocket kit over just 5000 kms.

Last edited by ebonho : 8th October 2012 at 13:19.
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Old 8th October 2012, 19:11   #514
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Originally Posted by ebonho View Post
The speedo MID and rear shocker spring replacement will be done only when they actually have a solution that works - which is not the case presently.
Interesting.
  • What if the solution is found only after the warranty(guess its an year from the date of delivery) of the first lot bikes expires?
  • Will KTM/Bajaj will still replace the suspension spring or the MID post the warranty period?

If the answer to the above question is yes how do we log a complain? I have the suspension paint peeling-off problem and haven't sent an email to KTM yet but my SVC is aware of the problem.
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Old 12th October 2012, 11:27   #515
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Friends, Im going to take delivery of the bike today. What all should i inspect? And which part of the bike can i get the chassis/VIN number? And can bikes VIN be decoded like car's vin?

This is my first bike. Please advise and help.

Thanks.
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Old 12th October 2012, 12:47   #516
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Default Re: KTM Duke 200 : Baby Duke 222 unites with her new family!

Hey Doc,

Got any more info than what's quoted here? http://www.autocarindia.com/News/317...n-the-way.aspx. Of course, the KTM 390 (I like the name) will precede the Pulsar 375. But, when

With platform sharing taking place, I firmly expect the KTM 'middleweight' to be under 2 lakhs ex showroom Delhi.
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Old 12th October 2012, 13:04   #517
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Originally Posted by Parthasarathig View Post
Friends, Im going to take delivery of the bike today. What all should i inspect? And which part of the bike can i get the chassis/VIN number? And can bikes VIN be decoded like car's vin?

This is my first bike. Please advise and help.

Thanks.
Firstly Congrats ,...Welcome to the fraternity. You can find engine and chassis nos easily, you will find bright orange stickers on the neck (where the front forks sit) for chassis no. and on the cylinder for the engine no.

Check for paint finish, look carefully to see if you can spot any scratches or dings, check to see if all parts are straight and aligned, check the odo (make sure it has'nt been ridden for more than the distance between the godown and showroom), Check all fluid levels (engine oil, coolant level, brake fluids (F & R), check all electricals and check the MID to see if all the functions are errr...functional! Sit on the bike and only then get the service attendant to adjust chain as per your weight. Check under the rear seat, make sure you can find the tool kit and first aid kit. And last but not least go for a small test ride to make sure everything is intact.

Cheers....enjoy it and be safe...ATGATT

Last edited by nitro.1000bhp : 12th October 2012 at 13:07.
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Old 12th October 2012, 14:35   #518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro.1000bhp View Post
Firstly Congrats ,...Welcome to the fraternity.
ATGATT
Oops perhaps my joy was timed wrongly. Since I'm making the payment today, it seems I won't be able to get the bike till Monday as RTO is going to remain closed and due to religious timings reasons I've to opt for Wednesday.

I inquired with the showroom if temporary registration is possible so that atleast I can ride out with the bike today instead of leaving it in the showroom. But that doesn't seem possible. :(

Should I do the PDI today itself? Also they informed me that the bike will have to be taken to RTO for registration and their people will get that done. Should I be worried or opt to ride it myself to the RTO?

I really wish I can do the temporary regn. today by some means.

And coming to your check list :-
1. Fluid levels - which area to check for the engine oil and the rear brake fluid? Is there any dip stick method?

2. Also how much should the chain be adjusted? What do I need to look for? if its already posted somewhere can anyone direct me to that post?

3. Also does the service attendant fix the rear shock absorber too? What setting should be optimum for an 85kg guy?

4. Should i check anything for the gears and clutch?

Thanks for your prompt replies.

Last edited by Parthasarathig : 12th October 2012 at 14:47.
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Old 12th October 2012, 15:04   #519
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Originally Posted by Parthasarathig View Post

Should I do the PDI today itself? Also they informed me that the bike will have to be taken to RTO for registration and their people will get that done. Should I be worried or opt to ride it myself to the RTO?

I really wish I can do the temporary regn. today by some means.

And coming to your check list :-
1. Fluid levels - which area to check for the engine oil and the rear brake fluid? Is there any dip stick method?

2. Also how much should the chain be adjusted? What do I need to look for? if its already posted somewhere can anyone direct me to that post?

3. Also does the service attendant fix the rear shock absorber too? What setting should be optimum for an 85kg guy?

4. Should i check anything for the gears and clutch?

Thanks for your prompt replies.
If the RTO is near the showroom it is fine to let them register, in my case it was 15kms away so I rode it myself. Be informed the first 50kms or so is the most crucial part of the run in period so you take the call

1. Engine oil can be checked on the right side of the engine case. No dip-stick here, there is a glass window. Rear brake cylinder is located behind and above the right foot peg. just open the cap to c. You should know where the front is. Coolant level has a window too at the front behind and below the hand bar stem.

2. Chain is pre-adjusted for an avg weight person. You might be slightly on the heavier side. So mount on the bike and get the service attendant to check the tightness or looseness of the chain and he should know what to do then.

3. I would'nt suggest changing the shock-ab setting immediately. Ride around till your 1st service and then have it adjusted depending on your preference (ie. whether u like it stiffer or softer)

4. Clutch and gears are not to be fiddled with. Like I said do a small test ride while u PDI and you will know. It is normal for the gears to be a little hard at first but it will smoothen out once you run it in.

Cheers...Oh and I would suggest you have the oil and oil filter changed within the 1st 100kms even if the manual states otherwise as a lot of metal shavings will get deposited during this period. I did the same and the bike feels very smooth now.

Hope I have been helpful.
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Old 12th October 2012, 15:13   #520
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Default Re: KTM Duke 200 : Baby Duke 222 unites with her new family!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Parthasarathig View Post
Should I do the PDI today itself? Also they informed me that the bike will have to be taken to RTO for registration and their people will get that done. Should I be worried or opt to ride it myself to the RTO?
PDI should be done before the bike is sent to the RTO. Whether you want to ride it there depends on how paranoid you are

Quote:
And coming to your check list :-
1. Fluid levels - which area to check for the engine oil and the rear brake fluid? Is there any dip stick method?
Engine oil - right side window on the engine case.
Rear Brake Fluid - Translucent plastic reservoir below the seat, on the right side.
Fron Brake Fluid - Window on reservoir near front brake. The fluid is transparent, don't freak out the first time you look at it.

These are to be checked with the bike held upright.

Quote:
3. Also does the service attendant fix the rear shock absorber too? What setting should be optimum for an 85kg guy?
I'd suggest you try out the default setting till the first service. After getting a feel for the bike you can have it tweaked during the first service.

Quote:
4. Should i check anything for the gears and clutch?
Gear lever angle can be adjusted. Check if the default setting works for you. I was a bit flat for me, had it adjusted pointing downwads a bit.
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Old 12th October 2012, 16:29   #521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro.1000bhp View Post
Cheers...Oh and I would suggest you have the oil and oil filter changed within the 1st 100kms even if the manual states otherwise as a lot of metal shavings will get deposited during this period. I did the same and the bike feels very smooth now.

Hope I have been helpful.
I was about to post my concern its already been answered. I was noticing the change in the sound when clutch is engaged in neutral. Just have to press and de-press the clutch and you definitely feel that something is not right when its engaged. I was suspecting that its time for oil change though the ODO is only 700kms now. I am heading for changes tomorrow itself.

Some more information required from fellow duke owners:

1. As I had posted earlier, has anyone noticed the tik tiks from the engine when its warm. This does not happen when its cold. I am not an expert or well informed of all engine parts, but could it be the tappets and I have no reason to be worried?

2. Since the first service is not done yet, the RPM1 is set to 5K. In 6th gear, the rise in RPM is linear up to 5K but then onwards its drastically slow. If I understand right, in 6th gear the RPM rise should be linear up to RPM2 which is 7.5K. I tried this out today again, but gave up hitting 7.5K in 6th. Forget 7.5K, in fact the rise from 5K to 5.5K itself needed lot of throttle input but felt as if I am trying push the engine but it wont budge. Was concerned that I might stress it out. My concern is not with the 5K or 7.5K marks since later these numbers are going to be higher. Concern is that if the ECU is still trying to read the RPM1 in the top gear. If that is the case then its a bug in the software which I can bring it notice of the KTM guys (having worked with BOSCH earlier for ECU software flashing application meant for vehicle manufacturers, I do have some knowledge around ECU software).

@Doc: Request you to elaborate on the comparison of the sliders. (forgive me, but could you please indicate it via some pics or anything on those lines for a novice like me)

P.S: It may be the case only with me, but initially I used to ride a little on clutch in clogged roads and the temperature bar reached 10 bars even on a cool night. But I used to ride on clutch to avoid the jerkyness of the bike in 1st and 2nd gears. But then changed my riding to avoid the clutch and deal with the jerks (hold the clutch only to avoid stalling). This has changed the temperature rise. This riding has reduced the temperature by 2 bars. Yes the max it hit was 8 and that too on a hot afternoon with similar traffic conditions as was earlier in the night when it hit 10 bars. If the traffic is comparatively light and if clutch is avoided and dealt with jerkyness, the bar keeps to 6 and 7.
The practice of holding the clutch had gotten on to me from earlier riding of other bikes. And its funny that I dont do the same while I am driving my car
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Old 12th October 2012, 18:44   #522
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Has anyone done their registration from yelahanka RTO bangalore? Do they require the bike to be present or it gets done with just documents? Some of my friends have had their bikes registered without taking it to the RTO. Please advise.

Update: Ive done the pdi and selected one.

@NikhilB you were right i did freak out about the transparent brake fluid. Most of the fluid levels were in between Max and Min. So is that ok?

The pilot lamp looked pretty weak in brightness. The main headlamps however seemed good. Also most of the bikes wouldn't start if the throttle wasn't turned a bit. Is this normal? The bikes have between 2.5 to 3.5kms on their odo.

P.S price raise alert - Monday onwards price may increase probably by 9k inr. Also about 50 dukes are available and 2ninja 250 - black and green respectively and also 4 Ninja 650. Paddock stand still unavailable for sale.

Cheers.
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Old 12th October 2012, 19:08   #523
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Originally Posted by catchvinny View Post
I was about to post my concern its already been answered. I was noticing the change in the sound when clutch is engaged in neutral. Just have to press and de-press the clutch and you definitely feel that something is not right when its engaged. I was suspecting that its time for oil change though the ODO is only 700kms now. I am heading for changes tomorrow itself............................................ ....................................
...................................... This has changed the temperature rise. This riding has reduced the temperature by 2 bars. Yes the max it hit was 8 and that too on a hot afternoon with similar traffic conditions as was earlier in the night when it hit 10 bars. If the traffic is comparatively light and if clutch is avoided and dealt with jerkyness, the bar keeps to 6 and 7.
The practice of holding the clutch had gotten on to me from earlier riding of other bikes. And its funny that I dont do the same while I am driving my car

1. The tik tik sound is normal with all bikes, it is just the hot metal cooling down and hence contracting.

2. there is something seriously wrong then. my bike picks up revs with a frenzy past the 5k mark and only drops the pace after 8.5k

and please dont let it jerk at all, use the clutch if necessary or go for a ECU reflash.
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Old 12th October 2012, 19:16   #524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parthasarathig View Post
Has anyone done their registration from yelahanka RTO bangalore? Do they require the bike to be present or it gets done with just documents? Some of my friends have had their bikes registered without taking it to the RTO. Please advise.
AFAIK, the bike needs to be physically present since, the RTO official has to verify the chassis/engine number on the bike with the numbers on the registration form. Once that is done and acknowledgement received for the registration and taxes, the bike can be ridden with "FOR REG" tag until the number is allotted.

As I understand your anxiety, just let the KTM guys know that you will accompany them for the registration process. Then if you get the acknowledgements the same day, push the KTM guys to complete their end of formality on the same day and you are free to take your love home. you can just give a call to the KTM the next day by which time a number would have been allotted to you (that is unless you have chosen a specific number then you already know it)

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro.1000bhp View Post
1. The tik tik sound is normal with all bikes, it is just the hot metal cooling down and hence contracting.

2. there is something seriously wrong then. my bike picks up revs with a frenzy past the 5k mark and only drops the pace after 8.5k

and please dont let it jerk at all, use the clutch if necessary or go for a ECU reflash.
Thanks nitro!!
1. Correct me if I am wrong, but the tik tiks you mention are the sounds from the silencer that you hear when the engine is turned off. But what I am indicating is when the engine is running idle when its warm. Observe the engine sound when you do a cold start when you first start the bike after long parking hours. Then after the the engine is warm (6-7 bars on the temp indicator), observer teh engine sound at idling. you can hear a faint tik tiks apart from the engine sound. If you dont then its probably only with my bike.

2. Again, correct me if I am wrong, what you mention here is the current 8.5K (RPM1 limiter) set on your bike. Since my RPM1 is set to 5K, the drop is at 5K RPM. After my first service, I believe it will be set to 8.5K and I am sure then on it will frenzy all the way upto 8.5K. But if I am right that your current RPM1 limiter is set to 8.5K and as you mention that it drops at 8.5K, my whole point is that this drop should only be in gears 1 to 5, since RPM1 is the shift limiter. Once you hit 6th gear there should not be any drop even past 8.5K until you hit the RPM2 limiter (which i think is 10.K)

As to the jerk, its the jerk of engine braking when you let go off the throttle and pick up when you throttle again. Earlier I used to hold the clutch when I let go off the throttle and light clutch again while throttling again (this only in traffic where you are forced between 1st and 2nd gears). I used to do this so that the bike travel is smooth. This is kind of equivalent to the bike travel when you are lugging (you hold the clutch at the stalling point when you slow down in higher gear but don't down shift and again start moving in the same gear while holding the clutch). I feel there is lot of engine braking the first 2 gears, so its like when you have switched to 2nd and gained momentum and again have to slow down and you let go off the throttle, the bike suddenly reduces a lot of speed without you applying the brake. This is the jerk I was trying to avoid. But now its fine with me. I enjoy those jerks, since its one less effort for me that I don't have to use the brakes. And I am now driving the way I drive my car, right gears for the right speed and disengaging the clutch is meant only for shifting and avoiding stalling. The clutch needs to be engaged at all times otherwise.
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Old 12th October 2012, 21:42   #525
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Thanks nitro!!
1. Correct me if I am wrong, but the tik tiks you mention are the sounds from the silencer that you hear when the engine is turned off. But what I am indicating is when the engine is running idle when its warm. Observe the engine sound when you do a cold start when you first start the bike after long parking hours. Then after the the engine is warm (6-7 bars on the temp indicator), observer teh engine sound at idling. you can hear a faint tik tiks apart from the engine sound. If you dont then its probably only with my bike.

2. Again, correct me if I am wrong, what you mention here is the current 8.5K (RPM1 limiter) set on your bike. Since my RPM1 is set to 5K, the drop is at 5K RPM. After my first service, I believe it will be set to 8.5K and I am sure then on it will frenzy all the way upto 8.5K. But if I am right that your current RPM1 limiter is set to 8.5K and as you mention that it drops at 8.5K, my whole point is that this drop should only be in gears 1 to 5, since RPM1 is the shift limiter. Once you hit 6th gear there should not be any drop even past 8.5K until you hit the RPM2 limiter (which i think is 10.K)

As to the jerk, its the jerk of engine braking when you let go off the throttle and pick up when you throttle again. Earlier I used to hold the clutch when I let go off the throttle and light clutch again while throttling again (this only in traffic where you are forced between 1st and 2nd gears). I used to do this so that the bike travel is smooth. This is kind of equivalent to the bike travel when you are lugging (you hold the clutch at the stalling point when you slow down in higher gear but don't down shift and again start moving in the same gear while holding the clutch). I feel there is lot of engine braking the first 2 gears, so its like when you have switched to 2nd and gained momentum and again have to slow down and you let go off the throttle, the bike suddenly reduces a lot of speed without you applying the brake. This is the jerk I was trying to avoid. But now its fine with me. I enjoy those jerks, since its one less effort for me that I don't have to use the brakes. And I am now driving the way I drive my car, right gears for the right speed and disengaging the clutch is meant only for shifting and avoiding stalling. The clutch needs to be engaged at all times otherwise.
1. I was indeed talking about the tik tik sound after the engine is switched off. I dont know mate I hear no such extra noise on mine whether the engine is cold or hot. Do get this checked soon or change the oil and c if still persists.

2. I dont quite follow you, if you are talking about the red light that flashes on the MID, it is just a shifter light and it does not physically restrict any thing, meaning it is not a "Rev Limiter" but the ecu telling you its time to shift up. My bike revved freely from the get go. The actual rev limiter only kicks in at 10.5k and no sooner. the RPM1 and 2 can be set by the user as he wishes.

3. Engine braking is on the higher side on this bike but it is tolerable by my standards. The way I ride it now is totally different from before. Now I shift to 2nd straight away and shift without the clutch from then on. The gears slot in precisely without any qualms...So now my bike is essentially a 5-speeder I use the clutch only for downshifts .
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