Team-BHP - The Gypsy that started it all! ~ Spidey!

Here is an article about pulleys

Quote:

The other benefit of aftermarket pulleys is to reduce rotating mass. Here the simple aluminum crank pulley has a big advantage over the heavy stock pulley, but there's a reason it's so much lighter: It's missing the harmonic dampener. The reduction in rotating mass may be worth a couple of horsepower. But removing the dampener seems like a bad idea to us.

The factory crank pulley has a built-in harmonic dampener, in the form of a split design, with a thick rubber pad sandwiched between two steel sheels. The dampener is designed to absorb torsional and vertical vibrations from the crank. MOST underdrive crank pulleys (with the exception of the Buschur Racing model) do not have a harmonic dampener at all.

Torsional vibration is a twisting vibration caused by the pulses of each combustion event. The force of the piston causes the crank to deflect ever so slightly in the direction of the force, and when that force goes away the crank ever-so-slightly springs back. At certain frequencies the crank can resonate, making the vibration much worse. This is where the harmonic dampener comes into play.

source: Tip 11: Crank Pulleys

So this replacement pulley does not appear to have a harmonic dampener, but I can't see one in the original either. But the point of my post is - how can we optimize the system further when replacing pulley during A/C install? (Or get the best possible installation done?)Anyone experienced failure after replacing pulley? After how many 1000 kms?

--Rahul

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ragul (Post 2809874)

Thanks. I did not notice the V-shaped groove. Neither does the compressor have v-shaped grooves.

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I have a permanent silver marker I could use but that will involve removing the condensor and radiator now to match the holes. sigh!

--R

Am talking about the belt design/shape. Sanden 505 i fitted has V shaped belt. Dont bother with removing radiator and all, just head to a MASS and they can help you with putting the mark for TDC.

Quote:

Originally Posted by headers (Post 2810097)

Jaggu: maybe you should educate as to how one should check the belt tension..

It's easy..

Dont know if its easy or not, but do it when the engine is cold so that you dont burn your hand. Press the belt down using thumb, at about mid point between the pulleys that it connects. It should move/flex a lil bit, if its rock hard its too tight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ragul (Post 2810159)

Anyone experienced failure after replacing pulley? After how many 1000 kms?

--Rahul

The OE pulley is as basic as it gets (no dampener and all), dont bother too much with the article. I think your are being lil paranoid about the whole thing. If there are serious issue you will notice difference in engine vibration levels etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaggu (Post 2811021)

I think your are being lil paranoid about the whole thing.

I agree,
but

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ragul (Post 2808964)

This one is blunt in rims and shallow in the grooves compared to original

This needs to be looked into. Might cause problems with belt life. Might also have a habit of throwing belts.

Quote:

In any case I feel there is much more resistance to rotations with this 3rd class jugaad pulley

Do check the pulley for eccentricity.

Regards
Sutripta

This is going OT, so please let me know if this should belong to a different thread.

Yesterday I saw coolant splilled on the floor so I check the bottle and found it had rubbed of on the compressor and was leaking from the edge. Moreover the boys at wecool had simply dumped the rubber hose into the bottle without connecting it to the lid to suck in the liquid into the radiator. So effectively my car had been running without a coolant supply for 10 days. Thankfully the radiator was full with the liquid.

So I ran to a local shop and got an Omni coolant bottle with its custom bracket. There is no way to fit the Omni's bracket to the Gypsy radiator so I slid it into the stock one and hoped it would not slide down to touch the compressor. Then topped up the coolant once again. Sadly today morning there was an even bigger spill on the floor and I found the bottle almost empty. Same problem - the bottle slid down and the friction with the rotating compressor edge created a leak. Now I have lost maybe 1ltr of coolant in the last two days.

Since the Gypsy coolant bottle is not avaialble locally, can I use m-seal to repair it?Or should I risk driving down to JC road without a coolant bottle and look for a gypsy part?

Thanks for your advice

--Rahul

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ragul (Post 2813006)

Since the Gypsy coolant bottle is not avaialble locally, can I use m-seal to repair it?Or should I risk driving down to JC road without a coolant bottle and look for a gypsy part?

Thanks for your advice

--Rahul

Take it to the garage and carefully bent the clamp towards the front, you will have enough clearance to keep the bottle. Or get a different set up which can be mounted elsewhere. I didnt have that choice since the SPOA parts take up lot of space inside the hood.

Discussion about the gypsy brought me back to the thread :eek:

Last year was pretty dull for me, due to various unavoidable things at work blah blah blah etc. Spidey was being used occasionally, mostly in some local small events or doing some recce etc. Finally the annual otr stuff started and was kinda happy to bring him out.

First attempt was a swamp and i royally got stuck.

The Gypsy that started it all! ~ Spidey!-spidey-stuck.jpg

And when he is stuck, its stuck for good! It took a while to recover and in the process realized that rear tow hook is needed badly. Was using the chassis to tie the tow rope, works well but takes out the rear bumper and tail lights in the process.

Soon got the hang of it and started fooling around. Found a good climb and it was time to show off. First tried crawling which obviously did not work and then...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JKrKQswpDc

Managed to climb but rear landed up on a tree and ouch!

The Gypsy that started it all! ~ Spidey!-tail-torn.jpg

Tail gate was displaced and torn at the upper hinge, luckily it did not swing open. So carried on for the day. And did this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvStRgKyDOg

Something was amiss and i was getting khat khat sound from transmission just like when mounts are cut, while in low ratio. After this day it started coming in normal 2 Wheel drive also, under acceleration.

Back again to Suraksha with a long list including, fixing tail gate damage, tow hook which will fit D shackle for tow rope. Transmission sound - 1) The yokes were tightened by some heating or something? and 2) Bent gear box stay was replaced. Apparently this was bent earlier and repaired once.

New tow attachment from Swastik Fab.

The Gypsy that started it all! ~ Spidey!-image1593992089.jpg

Got a set of cheap running lights also, since the head lights were pathetic. Later realized it (head lights) was a wiring issue.

Spidey with his new looks..

The Gypsy that started it all! ~ Spidey!-spidey-new.jpg

Hope this monsoon is a better one for both of us.

Easter weekend, too boring to be in BLR, Its hot too! Lets drive to Kerala... and so it was! A weekend off, with family and some close friends, boy it was a weekend well spend!

Started off with boulders, followed by rock climbing, rut conquering, more boulders, crossing barely existing bridges and finally clearing off fallen trees! Just few pics to share.

No animals were injured or vehicles towed back. So its both environment and offroad friendly.

Anyone has idea if the gypsy lighting circuit alone can be replaced? Giving few issues at the rear end, so thought of changing the whole thing since its about 10 years old.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaggu (Post 3083407)

Anyone has idea if the gypsy lighting circuit alone can be replaced? Giving few issues at the rear end, so thought of changing the whole thing since its about 10 years old.

It is mostly a loose earth wire Jaggu: I had a similar issue of all my lights failing this year in BAOTR and drove without lights :(

Yes the lighting circuit could be changed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by headers (Post 3083522)

It is mostly a loose earth wire Jaggu: I had a similar issue of all my lights failing this year in BAOTR and drove without lights :(

Yes the lighting circuit could be changed.

Thanks Headers, even i think so ^^. Its been chopped and tied up couple of times and the wires are all too hard after 10 years. Hence wondering if i should just replace them instead of repair again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by svsantosh (Post 3083479)

Spidey still rules!! who was in drivers seat?

I think this was me :)

A short video about the slow crawl up the ruts. Still trying to get some decent video's to figure out what was happening outside, since most of the times i was looking skywards :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4Ss963HSao

Quote:

Originally Posted by svsantosh (Post 3084594)

Great driving!

Just do a custom job for the headlights alone using Minda headlight wiring kit, easily avbl.

Headlights are fine, its the tail end that is giving issues.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaggu (Post 2714657)

All parts + fitment charge came to 24,000/- the insulation material was additional which came to around 160/sq feet IIRC. I paid them (the installation boys) a tip of 500/-

Hi,

Can you share the details of this blower ? I am planning for an AC in my jeep this blower looks good and I think it can be fit in My Jeep CJ7 type dash.

The Gypsy that started it all! ~ Spidey!-photo.jpg

- Sreejesh