[gautamkhadse]

Hey , please can you PM me the details . I already initiated the conversation with our HR and finance . They've asked the details of company name etc .

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Samarth parames

Got accepted as a member 4 days back, after reading numerous threads for about 7 years.
I want to show you guys what I picked up a few weeks ago through a used bikes portal.

Logged in after a long long time and saw this post of yours with this very well kept ACT 110. Congratulations! Its a lovely bike (as I never tire telling everyone).

Here's mine now, all muddy after a rain soaked ride to Lonavala. She's going strong at over 11,000 kms now.


Here's my CAAD on the trainer (for the lock-down and now the rains) and she's gone past 6,000 kms now.


Cheers, Doc

[varun560061]

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

The wheel rim face where the brake shoes press might be polished. If this is the case then you'll need to make it rough again with emery sheet.

Tried this few times, but dint help. Later tried to clean the disks with brake cleaners (used on cars) it did help but only for few days.

Am I missing something like, method of cleaning the brake pads, aligning the calipers etc.Have to figure out. Please help.

[Motard_Blr]

Originally Posted by varun560061

Tried this few times, but dint help. Later tried to clean the disks with brake cleaners (used on cars) it did help but only for few days.

Am I missing something like, method of cleaning the brake pads, aligning the calipers etc.Have to figure out. Please help.

Have you tried using a different brand of brake shoes? The ones that your bike shop uses might be problem. If the shop doesn't have other brands then you could try procuring them yourself.

[varun560061]

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

Have you tried using a different brand of brake shoes? The ones that your bike shop uses might be problem. If the shop doesn't have other brands then you could try procuring them yourself.

This might be an issue, since I have tried two Track n Trail outlets. Are these available on online shopping sites, if yes how do we check the sizes?

[ebonho]

Blew out my tyre on the trainer day before yesterday. Wondering why the wheel is slipping. Aftee three frustrating 10 min warmups and the app hanging (albeit after a long time), thought the trainer fluid had gone cold or something. Finally got into the workout, wheel slipping, but getting traction as I built up speed and asked my son to tighten the roller a quarter turn. Hit the first 260 w interval and cannot sustain it after 20-30 seconds, power not crossing 230w for effort that usually sees me go well past 320w. Decide it's not my day and pull the plug in total disgust. And find the back tyre flat.









The round flap around the valve had failed on one side. Started opening on the other side as well, but no leak there.

The tyre already had 6500 road Kms on it and another 100 odd trainer hours added on. It had started running pretty thin and blistering in parts on the roller contact area.

Changed the wheel to a friend's spare rear wheel a week or so ago. Maybe I had been careless with the tyre tube swap between wheels and the tube had gotten twisted or pinched.

Replaced both the tyre and tube and fingers crossed now. Yesterday was fine.

Cheers, Doc

[ninjatalli]

Disclaimer : I did not search the thread for an already available answer

What's the cheapest cyclocomputer (wired and wireless) that retains the ride details that I can later upload to Strava possible. Something that you'd recommend of course.

Also if we are considering options not available in India, is there an option to order it from China?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

What's the cheapest cyclocomputer (wired and wireless) that retains the ride details that I can later upload to Strava possible. Something that you'd recommend of course.

Bryton seems to be the most popular and reliable cheaper alternative to the costly Garmins. Decent quality and comparable features.

Start at 5-7k. Ali Express.

Cheers, Doc

[blackwasp]

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

What's the cheapest cyclocomputer (wired and wireless) that retains the ride details that I can later upload to Strava possible. Something that you'd recommend of course.

1. Use an old phone with GPS to log you rides. You can keep it securely in a plastic cover to protect from rains.

2. I have this - IGPSport iGS20E (https://www.igpsport.com/igs20e). You need to connect it to a PC via USB to transfer to strava. Works fantastic. Picked up from here for 4k bucks or so last year. This was on recommendation of moderator Aditya.

[rdst_1]

Guys, what would be the best way to record my workouts on the trainer. Earlier I had plans to get the Garmin Speed Sensor 2 and Cadence Sensor 2 bundle along with the Polar OH1+ Heart Rate sensor through a friend coming from US. Right now I am using a simple cyclometer but it is erratic and I can't see the stats because it has to be mounted on the seat because the sensor is on the rear wheel and it's range is very less.

[jsrakkar]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Logged in after a long long time and saw this post of yours with this very well kept ACT 110. Congratulations! Its a lovely bike (as I never tire telling everyone).......

Hello Doc,

Is there a post where you have detailed all the changes/upgrades you have made to your ACT 110? I'm looking at getting a used hybrid, but the current market conditions have shot up the prices high. So, I was thinking of getting a used ACT110 or FireFox Rapid 21s and then upgrading them slowly over time with better components (just like we do with our cars).

Do you think that's a good approach or use the stop gap bike as is and then get a better one when conditions allow? I would admit there is a certain charm at getting my own 'personalised' build with a bit of learning and errors!

Regards,
Jaspreet Singh

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by jsrakkar

Hello Doc,

Is there a post where you have detailed all the changes/upgrades you have made to your ACT 110? I'm looking at getting a used hybrid, but the current market conditions have shot up the prices high. So, I was thinking of getting a used ACT110 or FireFox Rapid 21s and then upgrading them slowly over time with better components (just like we do with our cars).

Do you think that's a good approach or use the stop gap bike as is and then get a better one when conditions allow? I would admit there is a certain charm at getting my own 'personalised' build with a bit of learning and errors!

Regards,
Jaspreet Singh

Sure Jaspreet, glad to help. These are some of my posts on the ACT 110, earliest to latest, with info you could use -

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shift...ml#post4429065

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shift...ml#post4430195

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shift...ml#post4435448 (still rocking!)

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shift...ml#post4503324

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shift...ml#post4506602

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shift...ml#post4528334

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shift...ml#post4529723

In addition to the above, I've further added

1) a second BTwin neon yellow bottle cage to the seat tube (fitted with zip ties as there are no holes in the frame of the ACT. Its a tight fit to clear the crank arm and still be able to get the bottle in and out, but its possible abd it hugely increases your cruising range in the summer months where a single bottle forces you to stop a lot more frequently).

2) A new pair of slighty used VP pedals to replace the original pedals which finally totally grenaded (I don't think they make this bike to be ridden hard over 10,000+ kms lol) and the bearing races were completely damaged and badly pitted and unserviceable (had been polishing them and replacing higher quality bearings and grease a few times in the past, which extended their life as much as was possible). The new pedals are slightly narrower so my feet do not get as much of a platform as with the old ones, but have gotten used to them now. Have a neat pair of wide platform resin MTB pedals from Concept that came on my CAAD (have gone Shimano clipless with cleats on the roadie now) which I plan to transplant after I've run this new pair into the ground.

3) The original handlebar grips finally became too worn and loose and would keep rotating on the handlebar even when not wet in the rain. Plus on long rides the round profile was causing some hand numbness. So finally took them off and replaced them with anatomic grips, which are ok for now but I'd like something a bit wider and softer and more rounded on the outer end where I tend to rest my hands most often as my default cruising grip. I think they are from Fire Fox (OE).

4) My trusty steel Hercules Top Gear bar ends with the foam sleeves, finally had to be replaced (I've still kept them) because the bolt on one of them snapped mid thread within the sleeve and would have to be extracted (weld and remove) and the threading recoiled. I'd already done it once before, but lack of time and other things happening at the time meant I got a new set of barends from BTwin (black ones) and fitted them instead. Need to add th foam sleeves for comfort, as the end of the bar and the first third of the barend is my default perch for my hands on long rides, BRMs, etc. And it puts me into a nice aero-ish position on the bike.

Nothing else that comes to mind for now. The saddle rexine is cracking and grenading and I will soon be on the lookout for a new saddle, because the BTwin one I bought is really too narrow for my posterior and sit bones.

Hope that helps!

Cheers, Doc

[jsrakkar]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Sure Jaspreet, glad to help. These are some of my posts on the ACT 110, earliest to latest, with info you could use -

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shift...ml#post4429065
............

Cheers, Doc

That is one detailed post!
I'm highly obliged for all the information and the prompt response you have provided! Can't thank you enough!

On my other question - do you think it is a good approach to buy a simply aluminium frame bike (ACT110, Montra or FireFox as these are the only cheap ones available these days) and then upgrade it in stages?

Regards,
Jaspreet Singh

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by jsrakkar

That is one detailed post!
I'm highly obliged for all the information and the prompt response you have provided! Can't thank you enough!

On my other question - do you think it is a good approach to buy a simply aluminium frame bike (ACT110, Montra or FireFox as these are the only cheap ones available these days) and then upgrade it in stages?

Regards,
Jaspreet Singh

Yes, it is, provided you get a structurally clean piece (no frame and drive-train and wheel damage or rust) at a reasonable price. Consumables are peripheral and secondary. Even though some of them like chain and freewheel and bottom bracket or headset do cost money ... significant when compared to the purchase price of a used bike. Even tyres for that matter ... though its the most commonly replaced part by a new owner.

As @ninjatalli said, OLX is where you get good deals. Deals on Cyclop are usually more "premium" priced. Though to be fair, I got my CAAD as well as trainer on Cyclop only.

There is no need to upgrade in stages. As long as you are clear that this is a cheap but competent hybrid. Replace whatever is used up, unsightly, damaged or not working and you are good to go.

The "personalization" upgrades only make sense after time on the saddle. If you do it right off, more often than not its a shot in the dark because it either looks good/pro and is what others also are doing.

I've never been into that. Plus I believe that I should use whatever I paid for. Chucking it away without using it is a waste. If I find it does not work well for me, or fails, or is simply damaged/unsightly/end of life when I get it, then yes, that's another issue.

But I would never replace something functional with usable life just because I want something shinier.

Let the bike grow with you, as you grow with it as a rider.

My ACT 110 after a post monsoon ride wash, ready for the next weekend (re-lube her after a day once she's completely dried off) ...





Cheers, Doc

[ninjatalli]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Bryton seems to be the most popular and reliable cheaper alternative to the costly Garmins. Decent quality and comparable features.

Originally Posted by blackwasp

2. I have this - IGPSport iGS20E (https://www.igpsport.com/igs20e). You need to connect it to a PC via USB to transfer to strava. Works fantastic. Picked up from here for 4k bucks or so last year. This was on recommendation of moderator Aditya.

Thank you guys! The IGPSport looks perfect - it fits all my requirements and price range too! And waterproof - that's a god send!

Quick question - does it make sense ordering from China (Lightinthebox) given the current poitical and local situation? In the past Aliexpress purchases have had no delivery issues, but I wonder if they'll get delivered in the current situation. Default option is saying 11 - 20 days but I wonder.

Any thoughts?